Author Topic: My First 88 LT500 Build (Read 38369 times)

MotorGeek - Jerry Hall · « **Reply #875 on:** June 21, 2015, 10:11:39 pm »

Quote from: Buckeye513 on June 21, 2015, 05:42:01 pm

Thanks for the info Glamis and yes it's getting plated top and bottom to reinforce it all. It's exactly to a T a +4 and no way to screw or up because of how I had the blocks milled.

I would hollow out the machined insert to reduce the stress at the welds. The machined insert needs to have a similar amount of flex as the rest of the extruded aluminum side rails of the OEM swing arm to prevent stress risers at the edge of the welds. Those solid machined inserts are not going to flex but the extruded side rails will flex causing it to break where the flexing stops.

I would make a heavy steel jig to hold the swing arm in alignment while it is welded. I will distort while it is being welded causing the swingarm bolt alignment and axle to not be parallel.

I learned the above the hard way many years ago.

Buckeye513 · « **Reply #876 on:** June 22, 2015, 12:40:31 pm »

Motorgeek, we have 2" of solid aluminum inserted into each opening of the cut stock tubes which will get anchor welded on three sides on each end both tubes. Then going to overlap it all with plating for added strength. It will be welded in a jig by a guy that's been welding aluminum for 35 years and been instructing a welding class for 20 years so I know the welds will be done right and hold. My buddy that had the pieces machined for me is an engineer and every simulation he's ran says it will hold up to a ton of abuse. If it does break I can always have it rewelded plus I still have my stock polished swingarm that will be shelved if need be.

Cunningham_821 · « **Reply #877 on:** June 22, 2015, 02:50:52 pm »

What he is saying is you dont want the aluminum solid and i agree when the swingarm flex's and it will flex. It will crack at the welds because of the inserts being solid aluminum.

Buckeye513 · « **Reply #878 on:** June 22, 2015, 02:53:49 pm »

There's a guy in Oregon running the same exact extension without the web/center plate reinforcement for over a year with no issues.

Zilla273 · « **Reply #879 on:** June 23, 2015, 06:44:07 am »

buck. i might have a stock+6 arm for sale soon, ran two seasons no issues and its polished

MotorGeek - Jerry Hall · « **Reply #880 on:** June 23, 2015, 08:01:25 am »

Quote from: Buckeye513 on June 22, 2015, 12:40:31 pm

Motorgeek, we have 2" of solid aluminum inserted into each opening of the cut stock tubes which will get anchor welded on three sides on each end both tubes. Then going to overlap it all with plating for added strength. It will be welded in a jig by a guy that's been welding aluminum for 35 years and been instructing a welding class for 20 years so I know the welds will be done right and hold. My buddy that had the pieces machined for me is an engineer and every simulation he's ran says it will hold up to a ton of abuse. If it does break I can always have it rewelded plus I still have my stock polished swingarm that will be shelved if need be.

The 2" of solid aluminum fitting tightly into the existing side rails, appeals to common sense and helps in getting the approximate alignment, but actually adds very little to the strength in the weld zones. The plates added to the bottom of the side rails is the component that adds strength for stresses created when hitting bumps and jumping when the rear wheels have equal loads. Plates added to the sides and top add strength for the stresses created when the swing arm is twisted when one wheel takes more load than the other.

What thickness of plate, alloy of the plate and welding rod alloy are you going to use?

Glamisrider · « **Reply #881 on:** June 23, 2015, 08:07:28 pm »

I say go for it and see what happens.

I don't think Buckeye does much high stress dune riding, it's mostly drag racing and trail.

And worse case if it breaks it'll just need to be re-welded and re engineered.

Lets see pics when it's done.

Buckeye513 · « **Reply #882 on:** June 24, 2015, 09:20:44 am »

I'm with you Glamisrider, I don't ever dune ride rarely ever jump unless I launch it off the top of a hill climb. All I primarily do with the bike is drag race and go on a few weekend trail riding excursions which I mostly just do hill climbs and ride leisurely because it's usually a big group. I don't know the plate thickness off the top of my head and I haven't asked the guy who will be welding it what wire he will use. Having only $100 invested in it if it breaks and needs rewelded at some point or reengineered I'm not going to be mad or upset in the least.

Definitely will post finished product pics hopefully I can get some pics while it's being welded too.

Q2W · « **Reply #883 on:** June 24, 2015, 11:31:30 am »

FYI, I just replaced my chain on my +4 bike and had to cut 4 lengths out of a 120 chain. So 116 should be about what you need.

Buckeye513 · « **Reply #884 on:** June 24, 2015, 01:26:44 pm »

What gearing Q2W? I'm running 14-42 but may drop to 13-42

Q2W · « **Reply #885 on:** June 24, 2015, 01:45:39 pm »

my duner setup is 14/45

Buckeye513 · « **Reply #886 on:** June 24, 2015, 06:02:12 pm »

Where'd you get the 45 rear sprocket from? And do you run the oem sprocket hub?

Q2W · « **Reply #887 on:** June 25, 2015, 06:16:07 am »

OEM hub. I use sprocket specialist. Just call'em up.

Buckeye513 · « **Reply #888 on:** July 03, 2015, 05:43:01 am »

Swinger is all together! So now big question should I polish it and clear coat it or bondo the imperfections out and paint it black?

ZillaFreak · « **Reply #889 on:** July 03, 2015, 08:56:46 am »

scuff it and rattle can black. Wouldn't waste the time prepping it or Polishing it till it is pass testing.

Skeans1 · « **Reply #890 on:** July 03, 2015, 10:33:53 am »

I'd be tempted to take a hole saw to the solid block to lighten it up some more.

Buckeye513 · « **Reply #891 on:** July 03, 2015, 02:53:19 pm »

I'm not worried about the extra weight of the solid blocks it's only maybe 2lbs heavier than it was prior to the stretch.

ZillaFreak · « **Reply #892 on:** July 06, 2015, 06:40:01 am »

no need to worry about weight, just take a nice poo before you ride or just make more power.

When will we get a ride report?

Buckeye513 · « **Reply #893 on:** July 06, 2015, 01:16:49 pm »

Hopefully have it mounted up this week and racing at dirt country with it Saturday so hopefully Sunday I'll have a performance review and what not. My stock rear brake line has a lot of slack with my rear end lowered does anyone know if I'll for sure need a longer rear brake line with the +4?

Zilla273 · « **Reply #894 on:** July 06, 2015, 06:06:21 pm »

when i extended mine plus 6, i weighed it before and after. went from 10.2 to 13.1, mines not solid though. if i had to guess id say yours is 5-6lbs more, not to bad though

Zilla273 · « **Reply #895 on:** July 06, 2015, 06:07:45 pm »

your stock brake line will work, im using stock on my plus6

Buckeye513 · « **Reply #896 on:** July 07, 2015, 09:58:26 pm »

Bringing back memories tonight tearing into swapping this swinger!

Buckeye513 · « **Reply #897 on:** July 11, 2015, 04:54:48 am »

Well it fought tooth and nail going back together (probably because all the coats of paint on the mounting points) but I finally have my +4 installed the wheel base is 1" shorter than my buddies +8 banshee lol.

Buckeye513 · « **Reply #898 on:** July 13, 2015, 08:25:20 am »

No ride report rained out all races for this weekend and won't be able to race next weekend due to work. I will get it out at some point over the next couple weeks and rip on it to see how the +4 feels compared to the stock swinger.

Back to back with my buddies 421 cub +8 banshee.

Cunningham_821 · « **Reply #899 on:** July 16, 2015, 04:48:57 am »

Something wrong with that pic... almost looks like that pretty zilla had a big giant wart growing off its ass..

News:

Author Topic: My First 88 LT500 Build (Read 38369 times)

Suzuki Quadracer HQ Store Zone