Author Topic: My First 88 LT500 Build (Read 38471 times)

Dragzilla346 · « **Reply #500 on:** August 28, 2013, 05:28:37 pm »

glad to see you got it started man!!! i think after a few heat cycles you will be fine, my zilla was a pain to start after i rebuilt it last year, took 30 kicks or so to get it to fire and stay running the first time, after that it was fine. get that thing lined up for the next race

Buckeye513 · « **Reply #501 on:** August 28, 2013, 05:34:31 pm »

It will be ready to go by the 21st Drag.

Chuckie25 · « **Reply #502 on:** August 28, 2013, 05:52:41 pm »

Oh hell,,,, that's your tattle tell hole it's pissin out of. When your water pump deal is shot it pees through there to let you know instead of filling your bottom end full of water.

Super stoked you got her fired up though!!!! I agree, after you run it some it'll get easier and easier to start. You'll learn the sweet spots and all her quirks and will have it down to almost a science.
I didn't have my 500 for long and only rode it once but it was such a pain to start at first simply because I didn't know how to. Then I figured it out and every time it would fire right up. And mine was sitting on an engine that had quite a few races on it.

Still, REAL glad you got her running!! I hope she does you well! And like I said, scope out that water pump seal

PCS · « **Reply #503 on:** August 28, 2013, 05:55:01 pm »

is that hole you are leaking water from the weep hole for the water pump? bad seal...

Buckeye513 · « **Reply #504 on:** August 28, 2013, 05:59:34 pm »

Yeah in the one picture you can actually see water fluid coming out. Does this mean I need to rebuild my water pump and replace the seals? I was hoping to avoid having to do this! Dang it!!!

Dezsled · « **Reply #505 on:** August 28, 2013, 06:19:31 pm »

If you buy all the parts needed on the first try you'll avoid being a duffus like I did requiring a second order...

Buckeye513 · « **Reply #506 on:** August 28, 2013, 06:25:42 pm »

What all parts do I need to replace?

Motoman991 · « **Reply #507 on:** August 28, 2013, 06:34:52 pm »

Replace parts 5, 7, 13, 14

Link doesn't take you directly there. Click on cooling system, OEM parts, water pump.

http://www.bikebandit.com/1988-suzuki-lt500r-quad-racer/o/m139429

Buckeye513 · « **Reply #508 on:** August 28, 2013, 06:37:55 pm »

Don't I need to double up one of the seals or washers or something?

Motoman991 · « **Reply #509 on:** August 28, 2013, 06:43:11 pm »

17 and 16 is a lock washer and a washer. I edited my post to show the picture.

Rider414 · « **Reply #510 on:** August 28, 2013, 06:47:51 pm »

Ahhhhhh the dreaded water pump. I had mine apart 3 times before it finally stopped leaking. It will probably leak again since I am talking about it.

Congrats on getting that thing started. This last 10% can be difficult and an ass kicker.

Buckeye513 · « **Reply #511 on:** August 28, 2013, 06:53:06 pm »

I also have an oily like substance leaking from my exhaust flange. And tonight noticed red fluid (I'm using type f tranny fluid which is red) dripping from my engine cases but can't narrow down where it's coming from.

Chris should I get two of the washers and lock washers?

MotorGeek - Jerry Hall · « **Reply #512 on:** August 28, 2013, 06:53:31 pm »

Quote from: Buckeye513 on August 28, 2013, 05:59:34 pm

Yeah in the one picture you can actually see water fluid coming out. Does this mean I need to rebuild my water pump and replace the seals? I was hoping to avoid having to do this! Dang it!!!

All you probably need to do is grind the end of the water pump shaft off just enough so that the end of the shaft is a few thousands below the surface of the impeller. The rubber sealing washer should tighten up against the impeller instead of up against the end of the shaft. Coolant runs under the rubber faced seal washer and coolant runs out of the weep hole.

Buckeye513 · « **Reply #513 on:** August 28, 2013, 06:59:26 pm »

Ill probably just order all the seals and washers new Jerry, I'm not that great at grinding stuff. Can I ask your opinion if you think all that oil and fuel I left sit in my crank case could be a reason my bike is so difficult to start?

MotorGeek - Jerry Hall · « **Reply #514 on:** August 28, 2013, 09:43:32 pm »

Replace the impeller if you are not willing to grind the end of the water pump shaft if the shaft protrudes above the washer sealing surface on the impeller

The engine cannot run if it is flooded with fuel and oil.

Remove the spark plug, turn the ignition switch OFF, turn the fuel off, put it in 1st gear, hold the throttle wide open, then push it as fast as you can for about 30 to 50 feet.

If it is loaded up, you will see vapor coming out of the spark plug hole when you are pushing it.

Buckeye513 · « **Reply #515 on:** September 02, 2013, 03:29:00 pm »

My luck is so much more awesomer than your luck its ridiculous!! So tried pull starting the Zilla Thursday wouldn't run. Got it back in the shop and tried kicking it a few times and it wouldn't kick over it would go over then hit a hard spot then stop. I was tired I said eff it ill figure it out later. So today I go to the shop couple primer kicks its cycling over just fine tdc and hammer it over hits a hard spot and stops. Get off look at the motor and this is what I find...

Broken motor mount, **** open stator cover, sheared flywheel key and flywheel has striped out the retainer nut and spun free which is what smashed the cover.

Rainman56 · « **Reply #516 on:** September 02, 2013, 04:59:10 pm »

That sucks.When it rains it pours.Hope ya get it straightened out.

Rider414 · « **Reply #517 on:** September 02, 2013, 05:03:50 pm »

You just can't catch a break can you. Unreal luck your having sir. I am going to drink a couple of beers in your honor.

Dezsled · « **Reply #518 on:** September 02, 2013, 06:12:29 pm »

Wow.... Man that sucks.

Motor mount ... I have never seen one break!

Yeah, gotta slam a beer for better luck!

Buckeye513 · « **Reply #519 on:** September 02, 2013, 07:18:02 pm »

My engine is making too much power to start and when it does start it snaps motor mounts and shoots fly wheels at case covers!!! Roarrrr QUADZILLA ROARRRR!!!!!

Oh yeah I forgot both lower motor mounts are broken not just the stator side.

Buckeye513 · « **Reply #520 on:** September 02, 2013, 08:05:08 pm »

Is 1/4" thick aluminum thick enough for motor mounts?

Rainman56 · « **Reply #521 on:** September 03, 2013, 10:41:48 am »

Quote from: Buckeye513 on September 02, 2013, 08:05:08 pm

Is 1/4" thick aluminum thick enough for motor mounts?

You would think so.Stupid question but you sure you have the spacers right side to side?2 shorter ones go on 1 side,2 slightly longer on the other.

Buckeye513 · « **Reply #522 on:** September 03, 2013, 10:48:17 am »

Not a stupid question cause I paid no attention to that nor did I know there was a difference.

Chuckie25 · « **Reply #523 on:** September 03, 2013, 11:27:43 am »

Welcome to the joys of owning a suzuki,,, something breaks when you run it. You ran yours once and it broke everything like it did. Run it again and the frame shears. Run it a third time and the swingarm blows out (wut?) Lol

Man you have some amazing luck! Can i have some of it? No? Ok, i wouldnt wanna skeef any from you anyway

Rainman56 · « **Reply #524 on:** September 03, 2013, 02:24:48 pm »

Quote from: Buckeye513 on September 03, 2013, 10:48:17 am

Not a stupid question cause I paid no attention to that nor did I know there was a difference.

If you look closely you,ll see 2 are a tad longer.Just put mine together and I think the shorter 2 go on the clutch side...You,d think I,d remember but it was on a long weekend.If you mix them up I think it could cause your mounts to break due to the twist.Aluminum doesn,t like to bend like steel,it breaks.

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Author Topic: My First 88 LT500 Build (Read 38471 times)

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