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Had a go with aluminum..... Yeah some of the welds look like crap but it won't fall apart
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That mount looks exceptional Dez! It mounts to the radiator/steering stem mount correct?
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Yeah same design , lighter materials
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And polishable materials! I'm addicted to polish if you haven't noticed by my build! Lol
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So what's the verdict?
This light works on a straight LT500 electrical system?
No other BS than plug it/wire it in to the existing system and it works?
I assume there is no Hi/Lo just wore it straight in to the high lead wire?
Thanks
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Yes it was plug & play with the stock electrical system. I didn't need the typanium voltage regulator, stock worked fine. From what I was told I have a rewound stator, so ymmv
Now I gotta try one of those higher output lights! -
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Dez--how much to have you make me one of those light mounts. I have aftermarket stem so your mounting location/style is perfect. Id be interested in some mounts to the top shock if you felt so inclines to apply your tallents at making those. mike
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I'm working on the brackets now....
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So what's the verdict?
This light works on a straight LT500 electrical system?
No other BS than plug it/wire it in to the existing system and it works?
I assume there is no Hi/Lo just wore it straight in to the high lead wire?
Thanks
The LED won't dim just by supplying less electricity to it (the low beam had a bigger resistor for that purpose), because the driver is set at a certain output to power the LED's.
It'll take a large voltage input range and modify it so the LED always has the same power going to it.
If you give it half the power, it'll still put out the same amount of light, assuming it's not below operating threshold...if it gets past that point it just shuts itself off.
The only way you can dim an LED is by changing the settings on the driver, most flashlights have a multi-click function that changes the driver's output to dim the light.
I doubt these light bars have an adjustable driver, but if a guy with a little IC knowledge could probably figure out a way to splice in a potentiometer to the driver and give it a near infinite adjustability.
The pot could be mounted on the handlebars, on the light itself, or even on the plastics.
My suggestion is to mount a separate switch and bypass the high/low beam switch (the high beam actually has a small resistor inline, so you're losing a few watts there), or you can get rid of the resistors and wire it straight to the LED to keep the OEM switch installed.
Nothing else is needed for the light! -
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TX,
If I red your post correctly, if I rowed it directly in to the high beam wire it should work fine, right?
Thanks -
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Yeah, it'll work like that, just won't be at 100% watt output going from the stator to the light.
For that you'll need to bypass the resistor in the switch.
Not really a problem if you're not asking 100% from the lighting system! -
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Yeah, it'll work like that, just won't be at 100% watt output going from the stator to the light.
For that you'll need to bypass the resistor in the switch.
Not really a problem if you're not asking 100% from the lighting system!
If I bypass the resistor and wire it directly won't I run the risk of ruining the light?
I run the RS 130W coils.
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Nope.
I ran a halogen light for several years without any resistor.
The LED driver has its own power management, and it can work with any input voltage...amperage isn't a factor because it will only draw what it needs to run itself. -
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But I still need a voltage regulator, is that right?
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You can use the stock vr, that's what I'm running a rs 130w stator. Works fine so far, but I haven't torture tested it yet.k
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But I still need a voltage regulator, is that right?
Yes sir!
not sure what LED's like the one ChrisG sells, but i have quite the collection of fried cheap LEDs from local hardware stores that my dying VR zapped because it was allowing 18v. They'd last for ever as long as i didnt go WFO. -
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So maybe test the voltage regulator first BEFORE installing the light ?
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Simple solution...if the OEM light isn't blowing every time you drive, your voltage regulator is probably fine.
You can always rev it up with a multimeter hooked up to the lighting circuit to test.
Just remember that these LED's aren't cheap RadioShack lights...they won't blow at 18V, they won't even blow at 24V.
They're rated up to 32V! -
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So maybe test the voltage regulator first BEFORE installing the light ?
Hard to tell on the dying ones. They can test in spec (and did many times). I must of redid my grounds 1000s times thinking that had to be the problem. -
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hey Dez, how is the light holding up?? Thanks for the info!!!
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The light will get a thorough test now that its desert season!
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This light in theory works the same right?
http://okledlightbars.webs.com/apps/webstore/products/show/3462190
Dez... How many feet would you guess that light shines? (original light the threads about) -
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This light in theory works the same right?
http://okledlightbars.webs.com/apps/webstore/products/show/3462190
Dez... How many feet would you guess that light shines? (original light the threads about)
Yes that should work no prob if all the electrical system on your qr is operational. The light your looking at should kick a$$ on the light I was testing with.
I'll get a pic of the light output distance wise... Just gotta wait for it to get dark in 11 hours
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The a really thick seat foam pad. Just noticed it.
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Sounds good Dez! As far as I know my electrical is still very operational. Ive been looking at all kinds of lights. The basis is all they are all the same. I saw a youtube clip of a Rigid 10" being installed on a QR250 but they used a battery.
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