Author Topic: ChrisG led light arrived (Read 3871 times)

Dezsled · « **on:** May 22, 2013, 06:31:24 pm »

The led light showed up today

I couldn't find the one thread... So started one

Buckeye513 · « **Reply #1 on:** May 22, 2013, 06:42:40 pm »

Awesome Dez!!! Excited to see if it works!! Thanks for being the guinea pig.

QuadMan8 · « **Reply #2 on:** May 22, 2013, 06:56:00 pm »

Boy that was fast order and ship. Is that a spot or flood, how many watts and lumens? Thanks for testing this for us.

Dezsled · « **Reply #3 on:** May 22, 2013, 07:00:34 pm »

The packaging label said 16w 8 degree... I ordered a spot beam.

The light is fairly substantial, weighing in about a pound. Stout fins are heat sinks I imagine. I have an aluminum bracket I'm making now to fit it to the steering stem under the bar mounts. Hopefully I can post up the bracket after dinner....

No idea of the lumens...

Dinner time!

Buckeye513 · « **Reply #4 on:** May 22, 2013, 07:05:43 pm »

You're all over it Dez I love it man!

WestTexasKing · « **Reply #5 on:** May 22, 2013, 07:38:47 pm »

This is the light on ChrisG's site:
http://okledlightbars.webs.com/apps/webstore/products/show/3445191

It's a 1650 lumen 16W.

Think I'd test the light out and make sure it won't asplode before I went through the trouble of making a bracket for it LOL
Pics and a review Dez!

Stpltn250r · « **Reply #6 on:** May 22, 2013, 07:42:27 pm »

if you want to be so bossy cliff. you should of bought one!

WestTexasKing · « **Reply #7 on:** May 22, 2013, 08:36:52 pm »

Quote from: Stpltn250r on May 22, 2013, 07:42:27 pm

if you want to be so bossy cliff. you should of bought one!

Just trying to save him some work if it burns up is all.
...and what are you on about anyway?
Several of us actually did chip in on that light, including me.

Dezsled · « **Reply #8 on:** May 22, 2013, 08:51:18 pm »

Alright the first mount has some cable interference issues, so I chucked it.

So Im going to use the upper radiator mount, I cut off the wire retainer. I'm going to make some pieces to allow the cables to float freely around the mount. I'm working on it ...

What colors are the power wire off the stator for lights?

Dezsled · « **Reply #9 on:** May 22, 2013, 09:22:23 pm »

Hey I'm open to suggestions..

Good point cliff, nothing like wasting time on mounts that don't work!

So i was going to wire in the light

QuadMan8 · « **Reply #10 on:** May 22, 2013, 09:23:11 pm »

How many watts do we have to work with on a stock zilla. How many watts does the tail light use--I assume switching to led tail light might net a few more. I would like to mount a 10" 60 watt flood bar up between the bars and if I can figure out how to make a mount to mount two 10 watt spots to the top front shock towers. Can we get 80 watts from our zillas if we use led tail light?
Have any of you ever fabricated a bracket or way to mount lights to top of front shocks?

Dezsled · « **Reply #11 on:** May 22, 2013, 09:26:38 pm »

When I got my Zilla it had piaas on the front shock upper mounts...

Here are the lights w/ the brackets

QuadMan8 · « **Reply #12 on:** May 22, 2013, 09:31:14 pm »

Thanks. That looks easy enough. Any idea how many watts stock system puts out.

Dezsled · « **Reply #13 on:** May 22, 2013, 09:32:12 pm »

No idea.. My stator looked to be rewound

WestTexasKing · « **Reply #14 on:** May 22, 2013, 09:47:11 pm »

Dez, the wire coming from the stator should be yellow with red tracer, and the wire that goes from the switch to the lights is gray (assuming it's still stock).
You need to keep the voltage regulator tied into the circuit.
What you'll want to do is take the Y/R wire and rig up a switch inline to the hot wire (red, white?) on the LED's.
(Y/R wire - switch - LED hot wire) No ground or additional wires, just a straight shot from the stator, through the switch, to the LED.
Depending on what type of switch you have, you could probably hook the LED hot wire directly to the switch's terminal end.
Splice into the LED's hot wire (or use the switch's terminal end if it has one) to the voltage regulator, after the switch.
(Y/R wire - switch - voltage regulator+LED hot wire)
The wire for the voltage regulator was originally gray.
Then, take the LED's ground wire (black?) and hook it up anywhere to the frame that has a ground.
So the basic path is going to be from the stator to the switch, then it'll split between the voltage regulator and LED, and past the LED the ground wire should be hooked up to the frame.
That should be all that you need to run the LED!

Quadman...the stock stator (for both the 250 and 500) puts out somewhere around 80W, it's generally accepted that 75W is a safe limit.
Can't recall how many watts the tail light draws, but newer LED tail lights are 5W or so.
You can get new lighting coils from Ricky Stator that are wound for 130W.
Could you imagine the kind of light 125W worth of LED's would throw?
CRAZY!

It's not difficult to replace coils, and they're only $40 (pretty cheap compared to those LED's).
http://www.rickystator.com/catalog/suzuki-lt500r-watt-lighting-coils-p-243.html

Some guys are hesitant to buy stuff from Ricky Stator, but that was due to a mix up with another company that had a nearly identical name selling Chinese junk.
They were failing and everyone was blaming Ricky Stator for it (even though they weren't from Ricky Stator).
I think that company was called Rick's Motorsports Electrics, and via forum chat it was shortened to Rick's stators, and then someone thought "Oh, he must be talking about Ricky Stator's stuff".
I can't remember for sure how it all got started, but that's what it amounted to.

Nobody I know of that runs Ricky Stator stuff has ever complained about quality or reliability...I've even got one on my wife's blaster.

Q2W · « **Reply #15 on:** May 23, 2013, 08:34:25 am »

Hey Dez, have you tested your volt reg? When i tested mine, it was still allowing up to 18 volts which would fry every LED light i threw at it. Only would get about 10 minutes of working time depending on how hard i was riding.

I know the regulator was somewhat working because I tested a friend of mines system and it was reading over 100v. We replaced the regulator and he was getting in the neighborhood of 14.

That light looks expensive so i'd be really careful. Maybe convert to DC? Ricky stator will build you a rectifier or i bet you can use the lt80's.

Dezsled · « **Reply #16 on:** May 23, 2013, 09:30:52 am »

Thanks for the wiring info wtk, it's been awhile since wiring in my trx250r lights.

Hmmmm... Good point Q2W, I have a typanium vr I could install just in case. I hope I can find it..

Ill be working on it after lunch

WestTexasKing · « **Reply #17 on:** May 23, 2013, 04:00:06 pm »

18V should be fine for this LED, it's rated up to 32V.
Keep it under that and you shouldn't have problems.
One way to test is by hooking up a small light to the system, like a brake light (without the LED installed), turn the light on, and check voltage.
The regulator should be holding at 12V, but as they wear out the voltage gets higher and higher.
Another thing to consider is that the VR is basically creating a path to ground and bleeding off excess electricity (putting a load on the system) until the voltage drops to acceptable parameters.
It's the same as adding a light to the system (a light goes straight to ground too), so if you test the system out without a light burning, you're putting 100% of that load into the VR.
It wasn't designed to run without a light for any length of time, so if you check without a light your voltage will probably read high because you're overtaxing the VR.
The VR only works when you flip the light switch, so if you're not using the lights, it's not doing anything.
Leaving the light switch on when your bulb is burned out can cause the VR to fail.

Odds are, if your system wasn't blowing headlight bulbs left and right, your regulator is working as it should.

Q2W...the whole point to this experiment is to see if ChrisG's LED lights can run on an LT's AC electricity.
Running a rectifier is something we don't want, as there are some lights out now that are supposed to handle a quad's AC lighting system.
Problem is, they're at least twice the cost...so if these LED's will work it'll save everyone a lot of money by not having to rectify the system or buy expensive LED's.

Milehi500 · « **Reply #18 on:** May 23, 2013, 08:22:11 pm »

So if a led taillight will work on a zilla a led flood should also?

2smoker · « **Reply #19 on:** May 23, 2013, 08:34:27 pm »

i put a led light on my 250 and also have a pair of optronics led tailights on mine. the headlight was installed using the factory wiring. it worked just not as well as it does on dc power. here is the link to the light i used. i only tried it because i got it for free. its rated for up to 48 volts.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/JW-SPEAKER-SERIES-700-LED-3x5-oval-worklamp-1703501-/230614944752

QuadMan8 · « **Reply #20 on:** May 23, 2013, 09:18:32 pm »

DEZSLED- Hook that light up to your car or car battery first and see what kind of light it puts out under normal DC power. Than hook it up to your zilla and comp it on AC--and run the S*^# out of it and see how it holds up. I would think if Lazerstar says theirs work on AC that any led would but......./.. thus the purpose of the test. I want about 7000 lumens of light. I think that would be sufficient

WestTexasKing · « **Reply #21 on:** May 23, 2013, 10:43:31 pm »

Quote from: Milehi500 on May 23, 2013, 08:22:11 pm

So if a led taillight will work on a zilla a led flood should also?

That's the idea.
Some LED driving lights are marketed to work on AC lighting systems, just want to make sure that ChrisG's will too.

Dezsled · « **Reply #22 on:** May 23, 2013, 11:39:48 pm »

Good idea, ill hook it up to my huskys electrical system to test, run it up against the 8" soltec hids.

Mitch Keller · « **Reply #23 on:** May 24, 2013, 12:44:49 pm »

Mike here is a link to some brackets I think we can make some and sell them in the store with ChrisG lights
https://www.google.com/search?q=quad+handlebar+lighting+bracket&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=scKfUb3QEoKS9gTj-YC4Bw&ved=0CC4QsAQ&biw=1120&bih=488

Buckeye513 · « **Reply #24 on:** May 24, 2013, 01:04:46 pm »

Making brackets? It hasn't even been tested to make sure it will work and last... Pump the brakes there Mitch.

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Author Topic: ChrisG led light arrived (Read 3871 times)

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