http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1988-Suzuki-LT500-LT500R-Quadzilla-Quadracer-/141078310052?pt=ATVs&hash=item20d8ec2ca4&vxp=mtr    Was looking of some pics of a zilla on ebay and saw something mounted above the countershaft sprocket. What is it? accelarator pump?

FMF + twist throttle = bone dry bowl + every girl's panties in the guys urinals soaking wet. Mikuni fuel pump, at least it's rebuildable lol. I'd buy the bike just for that lmao.

Is the rear shock linkage pump together wrong in this bike or is the end of the rear shock supposed to be over the swing arm like that,,,? Mine was a no-link so I have no idea what stock looks like..

FMF + twist throttle = bone dry bowl + every girl's panties in the guys urinals soaking wet. Mikuni fuel pump, at least it's rebuildable lol. I'd buy the bike just for that lmao.

Was that sarcasm or does an FMF and twist really dry the bowl?

Quote from: Chuckie25 on September 30, 2013, 06:47:03 pm

FMF + twist throttle = bone dry bowl + every girl's panties in the guys urinals soaking wet. Mikuni fuel pump, at least it's rebuildable lol. I'd buy the bike just for that lmao.

Was that sarcasm or does an FMF and twist really dry the bowl?

Sarcasm lmao. FMF is the junkest pipe around. People think putting a twist throttle on their bike is a HUGE AWESONE AFTERMARKET POWER MOD!!!!! as well lmao. I ride twists so I can make fun of them

Jerry, so  Billet Bowls are more for a Bling Factor than for use? Figured the petcock mod was enough.

I dont hear any problems with High HP  Honda CR500 & KX500 running a float bowl dry? why just our LT500s? and Banshees?

I bet that even if it IS FLOWING enough, you can still suck a stock capacity bowl empty faster than it can fill

If is flowing enough, the fuel level in the float bowl will stay the same at all times.  If the flow bowl can EVER be sucked empty IT IS NOT FLOWING ENOUGH. 

A float bowl on a running engine could be compared to a water bucket with about 1/8" hole in the bottom.  If you want to keep the water level in the bucket at the EXACT same LEVEL at all times you have to be pouring new water into the bucket at the same rate as it is running out the BOTTOM.   It does not matter what size bucket you have if you want to maintain the same water level all of the time:             SUPPLY has to equal CONSUMPTION!

If the new water supply is less than than the leak in the bottom it just takes the large bucket longer to become empty than than a small bucket

Jerry, so  Billet Bowls are more for a Bling Factor than for use? Figured the petcock mod was enough.

I view the LARGE billet float bowls as a public admission of the designer/creator and the end user as their gross ignorance about how a basic carburetor functions. 

We see a lot of guys replace the float valve with the wrong size.  A gravity feed fuel system needs a 3.5 mm float valve to supply the high hp engines.  3.5 mm is the stock size on the TM 38 OEM carburetor. 

The petcock mod will allow more than enough fuel to get to the carburetor if the vent in the cap is working properly and the fuel filter has sufficient flow rate.  Some of the small clear bullet shaped fuel filters will not flow adequately if they have much time on them. 

We have replaced enough burned pistons to fill a 55 gallon drum from gas caps using the billet piston shaped fuel cap vent check valves.  The check valves fail closed and prevent the tank from venting and it leans the carbs and burns pistons.  Some of these little bling valves require to much vacuum to open the check valve with the same piston burning results.

If the billet float bowls are the same volume as the stock bowls I view those billet float bowls as bling

My carb flows enough fuel i just use the oversized bowl as a little insurance. But if i just had a duner i wouldnt even bother with it.

Thank you Jerry for the info, Matt Shears mentioned that also to me awhile back, that those Aluminum aftermarket Vents clog to easily, and how those  aftermarket aluminum gas caps vent holes are too small, had to drill mine out to 7 mm, still left enough metal. 

We drilled the one out on my uncles 500 4-stroke Suzuki as well. His is a mud bike though so we've got a little more than a crispy piston to worry about if it vacuum locks lol

Wow I was just about to order one of those check valves. Thanks

I've heard about the 'petcock mod' but searching turnud up nutin. A free'ier flowin petcock would be keeen. Shed some lite on it. Worrien about the wrong bowls being not big 'nuf.

The petcock mod is where you grind an extended channel into the fuel valve letting it turn 180 degrees from the "off" position allowing both "on" and "reserve" to flow at the same time. Flow is noticeably increased. I removed both pick up tubes off of mine too, but I remove and drain my tank on the regular and keep it clean.

I was thinking it would be nice to have the reserve. Gonna try a couple 1 hour ice races this winter with the Zilla. Kinda like a signal to pit for gas. But a better flow is better fot the beast.  Gonna pull the petcock and take a looksee.

NEVER RUN A HIGH PERFORMANCE TWO STROKE ON ANYTHING BUT THE RESERVE POSITION ON THE PETCOCK unless you have done the petcock mod where it is always drawing fuel from the on and reserve ports in the petcock.

When the fuel level gets low enough to "give you a signal that the fuel is low"  it may be one that you were not expecting.  A seized piston or blowing a hole in the piston crown or caving in the top of the piston is the signal that is often sent to the rider

A two stroke that is slightly rich runs well.  A two stroke that has the air/fuel ratio perfect runs well.  A two stroke that has the A/F ratio a little lean runs well.  A two stroke that that has the A/F ratio real lean also runs well.  Most racers cannot tell the difference in the way the engine is running if it is real lean or running the perfect A/F ratio.

The fuel level in the tank while riding is constantly moving up and down around the petcock's on position stand pipe.  When the fuel level is still a inch or so above the stand pipe that feeds the on position of the petcock, you may be constantly flirting with small periods of leanness due to fuel slosh.  As the fuel level gets lower and lower the periods of leanness can get longer and longer. 

An engine that is tuned well and running hard like on oval track racing, cannot be teased with brief periods of leanness because the fuel slosh is not feeding the petcock that is positioned to the on position.  The reserve fuel port of the petcock feeds off of the very bottom of the tank while the stand pipe that feeds the on position of the petcock is up off of the bottom of the tank 2 to 3 inches.

You can constantly monitor your fuel level by placing a "T" in the fuel line feeding the carb and hooking the other barb of the "T" to a piece of clear fuel line.  This clear line will become a sight gauge. Take a felt marker and place a line on the clear tube where you think you should refuel.   Run the clear line in a place that is easy to glance at at while racing.  The fuel level in the clear line will be the same as the fuel level in the tank in the area of the petcock.  One end of the clear line has to be open to the atmosphere.  The open end must go high enough to prevent fuel from sloshing out of it.  The opening in the open end of the clear line (sight gauge) only needs to be as large as a pin hole.