Suzuki Quadracer HQ

Suzuki Quadracer HQ - Tech Talk => Tech Talk - Electrical => Topic started by: Rogue1970 on October 02, 2012, 01:44:41 pm

Title: Quadzilla LED/HID lighting with 12 VDC
Post by: Rogue1970 on October 02, 2012, 01:44:41 pm
This write up is specifically for the Quadzilla / LT500. If your looking for more light then the OEM 55/60 watt light throws, then read on.

First I want to give thanks to Kennerz (from the old site) as it was a lot of hard work to figure out how to get 12volt DC lighting to this old quad.

This post is for riders that want to switch to HID or LED technology for lighting their quads.  I night ride in the dunes a lot, so I wanted better lighting for the slow tight turns when night riding at Glamis.  No more head light dimming when the engine rev's fall.

Original OEM wiring diagram (2015 - updated):

(http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n135/rogue1970/1989%20Suzuki%20Quadzilla/Wiring%20Diagram/LT500%20Wiring%20Diagram_zpstsog0btb.jpg)

12 volt mod (2015 - updated):

(http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n135/rogue1970/1989%20Suzuki%20Quadzilla/Wiring%20Diagram/LT500%20Wiring%20Diagram%2012volt%20DC_zpstx4vd2ul.jpg)
Here I was using an HID headlight (w/Relay), and 2 LED cube lights.  I've changed my current lighting now, but the concept is the same.  Using this wiring digram will give you tail light (and LED whip light) power using the OEM low beam switch and headlight(s) using the hi beam.

The general concept is that you can't float the ground on the LT500 the same way you do for a Banshee.  Our stator's operate quite a bit differently.  One AC wire off the stator grounds to the engine and the other AC wire comes out in the wiring loom feeding the lighting system.

Simple instructions:
IMPORTANT - Make sure your black/white tracer wire(s) are connected to the AC Frame or your quad will not start.
Now the reason I have my tail/whip lights on the low-beam setting is for when parked on a dune during a night ride.  It gives visibility to my quad with out much of a drain on my battery.
Title: Re: Quadzilla LED/HID lighting with 12 vdc
Post by: Mitch Keller on October 02, 2012, 02:19:03 pm
Great Info, THANK YOU !
Title: Re: Quadzilla LED/HID lighting with 12 VDC
Post by: Dezsled on October 02, 2012, 03:12:27 pm
Great info. X2

Where's the pic of your machine?

Title: Re: Quadzilla LED/HID lighting with 12 VDC
Post by: Rogue1970 on October 02, 2012, 03:45:46 pm
Great info. X2

Where's the pic of your machine?


Haven't taken an updated picture lately.   I'll add one to my signature.
Title: Re: Quadzilla LED/HID lighting with 12 VDC
Post by: Quadster on October 02, 2012, 07:57:14 pm
So, what kind of battery and does the system charge the battery when running? Or just for a few hours, then charge battery?
   Read this many years ago and need new lights!!Good info.
Title: Re: Quadzilla LED/HID lighting with 12 VDC
Post by: PCS on October 04, 2012, 06:11:51 pm
nice info  ;D
for led light bars do you need the battery since they need less "juice" to run than comparable power halogen bulbs? i slap a 6" on my 200x honda and it lights up well. i also added a 12" to my yamaha tri z and its a big difference from the oem light bulbs. neither runs a battery, i just made connectors that matched the oem connections. had el diablo make a aluminum bracket that mounts to the triple tree and bolted the light bar down.
Title: Re: Quadzilla LED/HID lighting with 12 VDC
Post by: Rogue1970 on October 04, 2012, 10:30:02 pm
I am running a full size motorcycle/atv battery.  One battery model is YTX7L-BS.  This is a 7AH battery.  As long as you run a lower draw then the charging system, this modification should last a good long time without taxing the lighting coils.  OEM lighting coils put out around 80 watts max.  My LED light pulls 43watts, LED tail light pulls 3watts, and the LED Whip light pulls 5watts.  Figure around 50watts total draw with my system.
Title: Re: Quadzilla LED/HID lighting with 12 VDC
Post by: PCS on October 05, 2012, 04:20:18 pm
do you have any pics of some night shots with your light on?
Title: Re: Quadzilla LED/HID lighting with 12 VDC
Post by: Mitch Keller on October 05, 2012, 04:36:21 pm
We now need a good hook up on LED lighting now to make this set up more available for other members.
Title: Re: Quadzilla LED/HID lighting with 12 VDC
Post by: Glamisrider on October 10, 2012, 12:47:23 am
I am running a full size motorcycle/atv battery.  One battery model is YTX7L-BS.  This is a 7AH battery.  As long as you run a lower draw then the charging system, this modification should last a good long time without taxing the lighting coils.  OEM lighting coils put out around 80 watts max.  My LED light pulls 43watts, LED tail light pulls 3watts, and the LED Whip light pulls 5watts.  Figure around 50watts total draw with my system.

I've got the RS 120Watt coils, will the LED run off the AC system?

I assume I need to at least convert to DC to run the LED like you have even if I don't run a battery?

Thanks
Title: Re: Quadzilla LED/HID lighting with 12 VDC
Post by: Heminutt on October 10, 2012, 06:50:06 am
great info. i will be doing this for sure
Title: Re: Quadzilla LED/HID lighting with 12 VDC
Post by: Heminutt on October 10, 2012, 06:57:58 am
is there a way to wire it to just charge a battery.
Title: Re: Quadzilla LED/HID lighting with 12 VDC
Post by: Rogue1970 on October 10, 2012, 08:56:16 am
I am running a full size motorcycle/atv battery.  One battery model is YTX7L-BS.  This is a 7AH battery.  As long as you run a lower draw then the charging system, this modification should last a good long time without taxing the lighting coils.  OEM lighting coils put out around 80 watts max.  My LED light pulls 43watts, LED tail light pulls 3watts, and the LED Whip light pulls 5watts.  Figure around 50watts total draw with my system.

I've got the RS 120Watt coils, will the LED run off the AC system?

I assume I need to at least convert to DC to run the LED like you have even if I don't run a battery?

Thanks

Good question.  Yes, from what I've heard/read the LED's don't like AC power.  Direct DC?  It might work.  Once I get my engine running again I can check (pulled the battery for another quad since mine is down.)

is there a way to wire it to just charge a battery.

To just charge a battery, you would take the yellow/red tracer wire from the stator and the frame ground for the other RR input.  Then just run the Red+ and Black- wires to the battery.  This would charge the battery with no lighting. 

I'm not sure of the impact if you wanted to splice into the stator yellow/red tracer wire.  I would think that as long as your battery was not dead and wanting lots of amps/watts, then it should work.  This would let you charge a DC 12 volt battery and still run your lighting off of AC.

What? Do you want to have a portable battery charger when riding? :P
Title: Re: Quadzilla LED/HID lighting with 12 VDC
Post by: Heminutt on October 10, 2012, 04:59:55 pm
i am putting a fan on my 500 for the dunes. will run the stock lights off it also
Title: Re: Quadzilla LED/HID lighting with 12 VDC
Post by: WestTexasKing on October 10, 2012, 06:41:53 pm
Many of the LED lightbars run AC current just fine, in fact, there is a company selling LED lightbars specifically designed to run on low wattage AC current from a quad, complete with handlebar mounts and everything (check out http://www.bajadesigns.com to find ATV specific LED lightbars).
I say many and not all because those LED's are expensive....and I'd hate to say that all of them work with AC power and then hear about someone frying their $600 lightbar because of that generalization.

Here's what I posted about it on the old website in reference to LED advantages:
*links don't work anymore, sorry.  Might try lazerstar's main website and navigate on your own though*
-------
-they don't need to be warmed up, instant on (HID's spike during warmup, LED's don't)
-they don't need any cool down time to restart (some HID don't need cool down time, but some do or they won't restart at all)
-they don't need a battery
-they require less electricity to run (keep in mind you have to charge the battery AND run the lights on any HID setup)
-they're as easy to install as a standard halogen light
-they have a better pattern
-no charging system or rectifier is needed, use existing wiring

A single LED housing can be set up to provide multiple patterns (flood/driving/spot all in one).
Or, mount a flood light on the frame and a spot/driving light on the handlebars.

http://www.lazerstar.net/blog/?p=243/
http://www.lazerstar.net/application...-led-light-bar

A stock stator won't be enough to power HID lights, you'll have to go with bigger lighting coils (I think Ricky Stator is your only option at 130W, $40)
100W of LED light is going to be like two 55W HID's, and I don't think it's possible for a 130W charging system to run two 55W HID's.
That would equate to ten 10W LED's, or 33 3W LED's.

For 3W LED's, you can use these two together:
http://www.lazerstar.net/brands/lx-l...1054_1059_1089
http://www.lazerstar.net/brands/lx-l...1054_1059_1089
Or, you might actually get by with 40 LED's (120W), but that'll bring it real close to the 130W limit:
http://www.lazerstar.net/brands/lx-l...1054_1059_1089

For 10W LED's:
100W total: http://www.lazerstar.net/brands/lx-l...1054_1059_1088
120W total: http://www.lazerstar.net/brands/lx-l...1054_1059_1088

Or, use 2-3 of these:
http://www.lazerstar.net/brands/lx-l...1054_1059_1088


Only downside is that they're currently ridiculously expensive, give it a few years and they'll be just as cheap as HID's.
You might find them cheaper elsewhere on the net though...
--------

Now, if you don't want to bother with AC powered LED's (or you don't have lighting coils etc.) then you still have another option...use a big lipo battery.
A 5,000mah 3S battery will run a 200W lightbar for 15-20min (that's a LOT of light, and not a big battery).
-3 of those batteries will give you about an hour of runtime
-100W lightbar will last 30 min on a single battery
...you can probably do the math past that point.

Grab a few batteries here:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__86__85__LiPo_LiFe_NiMH_Battery-Li_Poly_All_brands_.html

Here's a cheap 5,000mah battery ($25)
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__6501__ZIPPY_Flightmax_5000mAh_3S1P_15C.html

B-grade lipo (cheaper, but won't last as long)
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18507__B_Grade_5800mAh_3S_25C_Lipoly_Battery.html
Title: Re: Quadzilla LED/HID lighting with 12 VDC
Post by: STARPUSS on October 10, 2012, 10:36:36 pm
man.... I Am Not too Sure yet what i am going to run for lights on mine yet, I think maybe 6 SST-90 LED Lights Sould Be Nice!

I Am Going to make a Custom LED Cluster Total Lumens should be 10,000 or so  ;D   ( I am A Flashaholic  ;D And have like 75 flashlights in the house!!!  "And i am Afraid of the Dark"  ;)

Also Going to Run a lifepo4 battery
Title: Re: Quadzilla LED/HID lighting with 12 VDC
Post by: WestTexasKing on October 11, 2012, 12:12:58 am
LiFe, why?
Only thing the LiFe batteries have going for them now are that they're more resistant to overcharging and neglect, more compact form, and the cell voltage matches up to a 12V (14.4V nominal) charging system.
Lipo's have them beat hands down in all other aspects (charge and discharge rates, less weight, less voltage sag, cheaper, etc.), they're even making them in 18650 sizes to replace the heavy LiFe counterparts.
Lipo's are getting 130C discharge rates now with a 15C charge rate...that means you can theoretically discharge the entire battery in 30 seconds and then recharge it in 4 minutes without harming the battery.
LiFe batteries just can't get close to that.

If you're planning on a charging system then LiFe is the way to go, a normal lipo will catch fire under a 14.4V charge (yeah, I've tried it!).
Another tip...if you have a 3S lipo, the peak voltage is 12.69V, whereas a lead acid car battery is 12.6V.
That means there's no possible way to overcharge a lipo hooked directly up to a lead acid battery so long as the car isn't running.
The current will flow in at max charge rate, and keep in mind that the lead acid isn't pushing the amperage in...the lipo is leeching it out of the lead acid.
Therefore, it will only take in what it can handle until it's fully charged (or right under 1/10V of full charge).
I can fully charge a 4,000mah battery in about 10min...(it runs at 40A until about 75% charge, then it drops rapidly to 10A or less)which would mean that I'd need a lipo charger capable of pushing a minimum of 40A.
The best part about it...I can also hook several batteries up at a time.
My batteries charge up long before I discharge them playing around with RC toys.

Keeping that in mind, if you had 4 batteries (one to run the lights, one as a spare to take with you, two recharging at camp) you'd never have to wait on charging batteries.
Might need to use an isolated spare battery to avoid draining you truck down during an all night ride, or stop for a half hour and let the truck idle without the lipos connected.
That's what I'm planning on doing, soon as I convince myself that an LED lightbar of any size is worth the premium they're asking for it.


What's your plan for the lightbar?
Seems like The XM-L would be a better choice given its efficiency and doesn't need a huge reflector.
Those big chips need big reflectors (I can imagine 6 toilet plunger reflectors all mounted to the handlebars LOL), unless you're going for more of a flood beam which is probably better for a quad anyway.
12 XM-L emitters should give you 10-12,000 lumens, pulling a max of 36A at 2.8V.
You could run something like that for 1/2 hour on a 4,000mah battery ;D
I wonder what the LED lightbar manufacturers are using on their stuff?


Oh, and if you could figure out how to get 120V power...here's a 3,000 lumen single module complete with heat sink!:
http://www.cree.com/led-components-and-modules/products/modules/non-integrated/lmh2
Title: Re: Quadzilla LED/HID lighting with 12 VDC
Post by: Rogue1970 on October 11, 2012, 12:22:26 am
Wow WTK, you sure provided a lot of information!

I'll continue to use a 7AH motorcycle battery with the RS RR.  Been working fine for me now for over 2 years.  I don't have to worry about charging batteries or being caught at night with a dead battery.  Some of our night rides we'll leave near dark and come back LATE in the night.  This is at least 2 hours of ride time.
Title: Re: Quadzilla LED/HID lighting with 12 VDC
Post by: WestTexasKing on October 11, 2012, 12:25:34 am
Ride till the sun comes up, and leave before it gets too hot....such is the way of the nocturnal desert rats LOL
Title: Re: Quadzilla LED/HID lighting with 12 VDC
Post by: Rogue1970 on October 11, 2012, 08:22:37 am
Summer time riding Tex, thats our motto!
Title: Re: Quadzilla LED/HID lighting with 12 VDC
Post by: Glamisrider on October 15, 2012, 05:53:32 pm
So basically Tex, Your saying we can run a AC LED with no battery, on stock wire set up and get the equivalent of a 55W HIDs as long as we run the RS 130W coils?

What about if we ran a 5,000Mah RC battery and looped it in to the system to charge, could that be done fairly easily?

I don't mind carrying a small battery as long as I don;t have to charge it manually and it does not add a lot of weight.
Title: Re: Quadzilla LED/HID lighting with 12 VDC
Post by: WestTexasKing on October 16, 2012, 02:26:35 pm
Some LED lights are designed to specifically work on AC voltage, so yes.  Hook it up to the wires that went to your headlight and you're all set provided you don't exceed the watt capability of your lighting coils.
LED's and HID's are very close to the same efficiency in producing light, so if you have a 55W LED it should light up about the same as a 55W HID (which is several orders of magnitude brighter than the oem headlight). Problem with the HID is that on startup it pulls way more than the rated 55W, hence the need for a battery and charging system that's over-rated for the continuous current draw.
With a 130W coil, you could easily light up a 100W LED lightbar (provided the rs coils really are 130W) without the need for any electrical modifications to the quad other than the coils.
It's ridiculously simple and ridiculously bright, but there's a catch...they're ridiculously expensive.

My suggestion is to keep a battery on the quad, tucked away, with a bypass plug.
You have one for the stator and one for the battery, so if something happens to the stator or you want to run the lights while the quad isn't...the battery will give you some reserve lighting when you switch plugs.
Don't bother with a charging system unless you foresee using the lights often and carrying a spare battery isn't enough.
A charging system is a lot of work, and definitely worth it, but way overkill unless you want to run HID's or light up the camp site.
Title: Re: Quadzilla LED/HID lighting with 12 VDC
Post by: CTATV on December 23, 2012, 09:48:21 am
So is there any reason I cant run a regulator/rectifier without a battery?.  i dont really want one bouncing around as i will be hammering my zilla through the woods
Title: Re: Quadzilla LED/HID lighting with 12 VDC
Post by: WestTexasKing on December 23, 2012, 02:48:38 pm
It depends on what you're trying to light.
Most HID's require more current starting up than what the stator can handle, even if it's only a 50W HID.
On top of that, the stator doesn't produce a full charge at low RPM, so as soon as you drop down below a certain RPM needed to maintain 50W, the ballast in the HID might be damaged but at the very least it will likely stop working.
For example...you're ripping through the trails and come across a technical section (a washout or tight spot) that you stop for a second to find the best way through...at that point your HID stops working.
However, an LED light doesn't have those problems.
If they draw 50W, that's all they're going to draw regardless.
If they have reduced power (idling) then they'll simply dim.

Either way, a battery is a good idea, even if it's just a small one.
You can find some really small lifepo4 packs that you can literally clamp to the frame and they'll have more capacity than a motorcycle battery.
Title: Re: Quadzilla LED/HID lighting with 12 VDC
Post by: Stpltn250r on January 10, 2013, 09:31:10 am
Just burned through all this again and wanted to ask a question.

Anyone that has done this have you ever checked to see what the lighting coils are putting out in volts in dc power after the rectifier? Checked with a volt meter. To see if the lighting coils are charging the battery?

Had a friend wire up something on his 250r for his MSD and he said he floated the stator to the ac/dc regulator and runs a 12V battery. He checked the amperage output when the bike is running and it goes from 12V to 13.6V+/-. From running MSD he is able to check the amperage. Says it on the computer screen.

I am wondering if a battery is even needed to run the LED light bar when the bike is running. I could see using it to make sure the lights dont cut on and off at idle. LED dont need the startup amps like an HID light.

I will be doing this and was just wondering if anyone has checked it.



Title: Re: Quadzilla LED/HID lighting with 12 VDC
Post by: WestTexasKing on January 11, 2013, 02:17:51 am
Have him check the voltage at idle and see what it's running at, then give the system a load (hook up a 55W headlight or something that would approximate the LED you want to run), see how low the voltage drops and record it.
You can stack 5W or 10W turn signal, parking lights, or dome lights together until you get the right watt load (ie three 10W brake lights and a single 5W dome light to approximate a 35W LED lightbar), just wire, solder, or alligator clip them all together.
If it drops considerably, you might not want to run an LED without a battery.
In airplane school it was taught that a generator operating at high load conditions and low RPM (idle) reduces the life of the generator because higher amperage was needed due to insufficient voltage pushing the current.
High amps are responsible for overheating wires and cracking insulation, so it's fair to say the assumption is accurate.
The thing is, a stator rated at 84W and 12V exactly can put out more than 7 amps (do the math), but it won't exceed 84W, so the voltage drops excessively.
If you're pushing more than the recommended amp rating (based on max watt output and voltage), the coils can overheat, short out, or burn up as a result.
So, there's the stator's health to be concerned with while not running a battery...but there's more to consider as well.

Look at the specs on the LED you want to run and see if there's a minimum recommended voltage (probably 9V, correct?).
Check that against the recorded voltage and see if you can maintain the minimum voltage.
If you can't, the LED's are probably going to blink on every now and then when you blip the throttle but for the most part you're going to be blind.
If you're lucky enough to just barely meet that minimum voltage, you'll probably just have a 2-stroke powered strobe light party.
A capacitor might fix the problem if you were consistently getting above minimum voltage to power the lights, however, I seriously doubt the stator will provide enough power.
When you're trail riding, wouldn't it suck if you were hauling balls around a turn, then saw a giant zombie bear-shark fangoriously devouring a viking dude with chainsaw arms and a glass eye directly in front of you, but as soon as you slammed on the brakes to avoid a crash the headlights just.....turned off?

Here's a pretty cheap (and lightweight) option if you don't care to run the lights while the quad is idling or shut off...
Buy two of these packs and wire in series (that means hook one positive wire to positive on stator, then negative on same pack to positive on next pack, then negative on that pack to ground on stator).
You're doubling the voltage on the packs, they're 6.6V and you need twice that much, it's just the same as those fancy lipo packs that they're selling for newer 4-strokes without the fancy hard case.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__14075__ZIPPY_Flightmax_700mAh_6_6V_5C_LiFePo4_Reciever_Pack.html
It's a tiny little pack, good for 700mah (will run a 55W light for 8min or a 35W for 14min with two packs in series), the total weight for both packs with wiring and everything would come out to 1/4lb, and your cost would be $5.26 before shipping.
They can be found pretty much everywhere in the RC world, just search google for "RC lifepo4 transmitter pack"
Here's another one:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__23822__Turnigy_nano_tech_1450mAh_2S1P_20_40C_LiFePo4_Receiver_Pack_.html
It's a 1450mah, so it'll run basically twice as long as the 700mah above, total weight for two packs and wiring is .375lbs, $15.98.
They're small enough that you can zip tie them to the frame, duct tape them to the bottom of the seat, or velcro them to the underside of a fender.

So, to answer your question, I wouldn't run an LED without a battery.
When you consider the battery options available like these in particular there's no excuse, it would seem silly to NOT run some type of battery, especially if you run the risk of damaging the stator or yourself when the lights stop working.
Title: Re: Quadzilla LED/HID lighting with 12 VDC
Post by: Glamisrider on April 10, 2013, 12:31:10 pm
West, I like the idea of the small RC batteries But they will run down even if I ONLY turn the lights on when the bike is running correct because there is nothing charging them.

My question is; is there draw on the battery when the stator is producing enough to power the lights and when the stator is producing below the required power the draw on the batteries will only be the difference between what the stator is producing and the shortage of what the lights need?

IE: I'm running this light:
http://okledlightbars.webs.com/apps/webstore/products/show/3462190

Will the light function at idle or will I need a battery to make up for the shortage and if the battery makes up for the shortage will it only make up for what is needed or will it pull full current from the battery when the bike is at idle?

Also how does the voltage affect the light on an AC system?

Thanks for answering my stupid questions Tex.
Title: Re: Quadzilla LED/HID lighting with 12 VDC
Post by: WestTexasKing on April 10, 2013, 05:27:30 pm
If you've got a charging system with a battery, then the draw on the battery will only be the difference between the load and generated electricity.
For example...let's use a 100W draw from the lights.
If your stator is producing 130W, then 30W is allocated to charging the battery while the other 100W goes to the lights.
If your stator is only producing 80W, then 20W will come from the battery to total 100W going to the lights.
Granted, that's not taking into account inefficiencies or anything, but it gives you a general idea about what's going on.

If you have a 5Ah battery used with a 130W stator and 100W lights, it will take 2 hours to fully charge your battery.
If you turn the lights off and use 100% of the stator's 130W to charge the battery, it'll get a full charge in 30-45min.

As for the battery eventually going down without a charging system, yeah...obviously LOL
However, think of it as a fuel tank for your lights.
If you're riding all day at the dunes, you need a few gas cans back at camp to refuel, right?
Just make a stop and fill up your tank.
Same way with the batteries...have a few back at camp that are charged and/or rotated out on the charger.
During your refueling, swap out the battery for a fresh one and hook the used one up to a charge.
If your fuel tank is only going to let you ride for 2hrs, then you only need a battery that will provide a 2hr run time.
A charging system is worthless if you don't have the fuel to run the stator.
3 cell lipo batteries can be fully charged in 10-30min depending on brand and type, so by the time you fuel up your quad, grab something to drink, and cool off for a few minutes, your lipo should be fully charged again.
Take a spare if you want to run the lights longer than you'll be riding, or as a precautionary measure.
And FYI, the lipo batteries are pretty much any size you want...5,000mah battery=5Ah battery, a little smaller than a motorcycle battery, and you can plug them up in series just like diesel truck batteries to get more capacity.
All depends on how long you want to run the lights, or how much light you want as to the size of the battery that'll work best.
Title: Re: Quadzilla LED/HID lighting with 12 VDC
Post by: Glamisrider on April 11, 2013, 09:46:57 am
Ok I'm starting to understand it now.

Next quesiton could the batteries be wired in to the system since they are DC and the bikes system is AC?

2nd question: If the batteries can be wired in to the system despite the currant differences in order to make a charging system for the batteries that runs off the stator (so I don't have to separately charge) I'd still need to wire in a rectifier in order to charge the batteries since they are DC, correct? 

Basically use kennerz DC charging system but just use the LED lights and the smaller RC batteries instead, right?

Title: Re: Quadzilla LED/HID lighting with 12 VDC
Post by: WestTexasKing on April 11, 2013, 11:36:29 am
As long as your rectified (DC) charging system doesn't exceed 12.8V, you can use any 3 cell lipo battery.
Any battery will fry if hooked up to an AC system, so be sure that you're hooking it up to the rectified portion of the system.
You can simply substitute the HID and lead battery with the LED and lipo battery on Kennerz' or Rogue's wiring schematics.
If your charging system exceeds 12.8V, you'll damage the battery, so be sure that your voltage regulator is working (it should keep it right around 12V).
If it doesn't, then you'll have to go with a lead battery or a lifepo (lithium iron) battery...they'll handle a standard 14.8V charging system.
The lifepo batteries are heavier and a bit more expensive than lipo batteries, but they're extremely durable in comparison and have a higher working voltage due to cell voltage differences.
They're the same "lipo" batteries that are on the market now for quads and streetbikes, so that makes sourcing a big enough battery pretty easy.
Title: Re: Quadzilla LED/HID lighting with 12 VDC
Post by: Glamisrider on January 27, 2016, 10:58:11 am
Just burned through all this again and wanted to ask a question.

I am wondering if a battery is even needed to run the LED light bar when the bike is running. I could see using it to make sure the lights dont cut on and off at idle. LED dont need the startup amps like an HID light.

I will be doing this and was just wondering if anyone has checked it.

Book quotes these ratings for stock lighting coils:
12v A/C at 3,000 rpm
18v A/C at 8,000 rpm