Suzuki Quadracer HQ
LT250R Quadracer => LT250R - Exhaust => Topic started by: LT250RWV on December 28, 2012, 05:42:34 pm
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We pulled the cylinder a few times, modified the ports to the current level testing each increment of port changes. We installed and tested the HPR/V2 reed assembly and also installed a TM 38 Mikuni bored to 41.5mm.
After getting the ports in the ballpark for this stage of testing, we stated our LT 250 pipe development process. We are showing the graph of what we are calling HPR Test Pipe # 1. The pipe has more Peak power than the other pipes but it is not acceptable to us because we believe we can develop the pipe and ports to produce a wider power band with as much or more peak power and still make it produce more power in the mid and lower RPM range.
It takes time to develop a pipe and port package. Stay tuned for updates:
Blue line is DR Q / Shearer pipe and silencer
Red line is HPR test pipe # 1 pipe and silencer
Green line is Paul Turner pipe and silencer
Jerry,
Was this Turner pipe the mid or hi rev?
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We need some better pipe options over here!
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It's been a number of years now. Is there still no more development on a finished hpr pipe?
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Hi^ P*
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So nice to see that quad get built. It's still running strong just without the ftz pipe
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Rainman, did you look into the FTZ whale pipe? Wonder what they cost?
No I didn't never heard of the "whale pipe" and don't see it on their website........Looks like they are "on hold" for building any 2 stroke pipes at the moment
http://www.suzukiquadracerhq.com/lt250r-general-discussion/1991-ftz-lt250r-flat-track-resto/25/
Reply #30. I think that's it.
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Rainman, did you look into the FTZ whale pipe? Wonder what they cost?
No I didn't never heard of the "whale pipe" and don't see it on their website........Looks like they are "on hold" for building any 2 stroke pipes at the moment
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Out of stock and they're not going to make anymore
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Duncan Racing website has the Two different pipes available from Paul Turner I believe.
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Where can I find a Paul turnet?
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What would a good pipe and exhaust be for legal trail riding? Rule here is under 98db.
My 250 came with an FMF pipe and spark arrestor. Works fine for all around trail riding.
A Paul Turner pipe spiced things up, with some loss of low end.
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Rainman, did you look into the FTZ whale pipe? Wonder what they cost?
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What would a good pipe and exhaust be for legal trail riding? Rule here is under 98db.
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Welp thought it over and talked to Matt on the phone...Ended up biting the bullet and purchasing a new pipe from him...He said $695 including the heat shield in raw form...Still expensive with the exchange rate and shipping but that just the way it is...I'm interested to see how it pulls up top compared to the Aaen I have :)
I will say Matt sounds like a great guy to deal with.
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unless you paid for it. pipe is raw
I paid for the chrome and heat shield all in one bundle when i bought it. Final total was 683$ shipped.
Price on the pipe must have went up :( just got a quote for a new SCP...Was quoted $695 for the raw pipe and $80 for the heat shield=$775..............+ about another $100 shipping up here to Canada...And of course that is USD...$875USD =$1153 Canadian.........Guess I'm sticking with the old tech Aaen unless I get lucky enough to score a used one :(
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I recently dyno tested AAEN new design and it did excellent against the pipe I tested against ... it pulls just as hard as any other pipe but has enough over rev to allow you to actually use the hp/tq it makes. Idk when Olav plans to start building them as I have to bring my machine back across the lake for the fixture process...
I assume this is the dyno session you posted about?
https://youtu.be/wn2lQjgJW8E
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Anyone know the difference between the Dyno port big volume pipe and mid-high pipe?Also the difference in the silencers for the big volume pipe???Differences in price between the big volume pipe depending on the silencer used...Also would the silencer I have (fits,old style Aaen,stock,fmf,etc or do you need the dynoport silencer.
Time for me to try one of the "newer" pipes and see how it runs.
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I recently dyno tested AAEN new design and it did excellent against the pipe I tested against ... it pulls just as hard as any other pipe but has enough over rev to allow you to actually use the hp/tq it makes. Idk when Olav plans to start building them as I have to bring my machine back across the lake for the fixture process...
Any news or progress on a new Aaen???
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Nice,I'm running an 87 and way up in Canada so unfortunately I,m not much help.
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Kenny Roberts can make us 85’ & 86’ LT250R owners a custom hand cones and hammered welded pipe like the other models, we just need a donor 85’ or 86’ quad to use for figment and designing. He located in So Cal. Any offers to lend him the quad would be greatly apppreciated
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Anything new on 250 pipes?
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Kenny Roberts, pipe builder, 1-(909)-821-7125——— charges $600.00 for him to hand make and weld and hammer smooth! Chroming is extra if he even offers it. I’m saving up to have him build one for my 85’!
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Ok I never ended up ordering the shearer pipe. I was waiting for HPR to test and release their pipe, but it looks like they are still holding off. After reading the dyno results between the shearer and dynoport, its clear the Dynoport makes more usable power, and has higher peak numbers.
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Mine performed fine with the FMF that came on it for a long time. But my issue with it was the powerband it created. The specialized riding I do requires a pipe which can have the throttle chopped (to maneuver or climb over obstacles) and then be able to get back on the pipe (while under load) to finish my climb. If all I did was ride on dirt I probably never would have been unhappy enough with the power the FMF pipe gave me, to go looking for other options.
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I know a lot of people might scoff at this, but I have an fmf and I think it works pretty damn good. I got it because I didn't want to drop $800 at the time for a Shearer, and I'm impressed. I don't have a lot done to my engine, just the pipe and a RAD valve. Otherwise everything else is stock. For a 250 the LT hauls the mail, and I have modded Tecates, a Tri-Z, and 250R to compare it to. I guess it is a testament to how good the LT engine it--it's an underrated machine. I'm not saying the fmf is the best pipe out there, I'm just saying it is more of a performer than I expected. Pretty good results for $300.
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I recently dyno tested AAEN new design and it did excellent against the pipe I tested against ... it pulls just as hard as any other pipe but has enough over rev to allow you to actually use the hp/tq it makes. Idk when Olav plans to start building them as I have to bring my machine back across the lake for the fixture process...
Good stuff Mr S.......I have the current Aaen and while I like it I've been told it's not a great pipe.I haven't run any of the newer pipes though.Shearer,dynoport,etc so if Aaen does start producing a new one with good reviews I'll likely be giving him a call. +k2
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I recently dyno tested AAEN new design and it did excellent against the pipe I tested against ... it pulls just as hard as any other pipe but has enough over rev to allow you to actually use the hp/tq it makes. Idk when Olav plans to start building them as I have to bring my machine back across the lake for the fixture process...
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Any new pipe development news?
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On the track, I noticed a issue coming off turns rolling the throttle on, id have to feather the clutch to get it "back on the pipe". Over a season at the track I tried different PV settings, porting, head and timing never went away. Went to a Dyno and confirmed my suspicion. Made about 20 runs on dyno with one particular cylinder head I really like tried jetting and PV to take it out and did not work.
Immediately swapped to a FTZ pipe similar curve, just had to reset the pv to take a small variation out.
Then went to the Dynoport pipe more Tq and Hp but no over rev, just have to gear a little taller and shift earlier.
Was hoping to see a new Pipe from HAll's to try but he is just backed up working alone.
I've talked to Dynoport and there's a good possibility we will do a new Pipe to work with my bigger Small Block engines and ill see if does anything for the 265. I think there's some more hiding in the pipe's and I know there's a little left in the porting, just have to go after it.
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I ordered one from Shearer a couple of days ago. If I like how it works with my porting I might need a spare...
Did the Shearer pipe just not give you the power band you were looking for or was there something else?
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Best Pipes for the LT are based on Port/Head configuration Carb and "USE", for my engines Dynoport (avail new) and FTZ ( non current) are the go to depending on setup. If you can find an LRD or PSI there good also. If you would like a Shearer/Q I have one available.
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Bummer. I guess I'll go with the shearer pipe as long as he's still building them. I'd be all over that job if I lived near Phoenix. I'm only 25 and people look at me like I'm nuts when I break out a flip phone to actually make a call with it.
Sweet.I also use a flip phone...V3 razr is still goin strong Hi^
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<1>
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Bummer. I guess I'll go with the shearer pipe as long as he's still building them. I'd be all over that job if I lived near Phoenix. I'm only 25 and people look at me like I'm nuts when I break out a flip phone to actually make a call with it.
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Pipe development on the 250 has stopped since I have been working by myself and will resume when I get some good helpers. I need someone that has good mechanical skills, machine shop skills, and welding skills that wants to take those skills to a higher level and can go 8 hours without looking at, texting or talking on their phone.
This type of work requires 110% concentration. Any distraction can cause a mistake at any point in a job and waste thousands of dollars in parts and labor. Guys that think they can multitask on this kind of stuff only are fooling themselves.
I work for a lot of other business owners that are also seeing this new addiction epidemic (cell phones/smart phones) in their work place and are starting to make workers check in their phones at the door or leave them in the car.
Automobile fatalities and injuries due to cell phone impairment has now exceeded fatalities and injuries due to impairment due to alcohol and drug use while driving. What employer allows workers to come to work drunk or high? Employers have begun watching their employees with this new addiction to cell phone and tracking the amount of time employees are steeling from them while they are on the clock and the mistakes employees are making due to the constant distraction these great little high-tech tools are causing.
Are there any guys in the Phoenix area that have the aptitude and required skills that are not addicted to their smart phone and want to do this type of work on a part time or full time basis?
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Any news on when we're going to hear more on the HPR250 pipe?
Hopefully Jerry can chime in on a timeframe.
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Any news on when we're going to hear more on the HPR250 pipe?
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Anyone familiar with the pro circuit pipes for the 87-92 LT250's?What type of powerband do they have?
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Have the Aaen pipe off for a repaint so thought I'd post some pics.
(http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/h425/Rainman56/006_zpsklcaingk.jpg) (http://s1109.photobucket.com/user/Rainman56/media/006_zpsklcaingk.jpg.html)
(http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/h425/Rainman56/005_zps8vriqqzb.jpg) (http://s1109.photobucket.com/user/Rainman56/media/005_zps8vriqqzb.jpg.html)
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Any updates in here?
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so far on my bartlett 250 the ftz made the most hp and torque over the scp and dynoport.. the dynoport was a good pipe but the ftz is almost the exact curves with 1000rpm of still increasing hp and trq..
i could not ask for a better set up for it. when jerry gets his pipe done i may try it though +k2
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w+
bud all the 96 japanese bikes were doing it 20 years ago.
Show me some graphs of the power and torque curves of some of the engines you are talking about so that I can try to get on the same page as you. You may know what you are talking about but I do not think that I am understanding what you are talKing about. Point to the part of the power curve so that I know what you mean by "hit"
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w+
bud all the 96 japanese bikes were doing it 20 years ago. the hot setup on the smaller engines is 5000rpm hit and peak power at 11000rpm. im sure i know what im talking about.
***Edit 1***
if it comes on at 5000rpm then it should rev to 11000rpm yes. you have now passed pipe tech 101
0>me
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I have not seen a 250 two stroke quad or any of the RM, CR, YZ or KX 250s motocross engine that hits or come on the pipe at 4000 RPM... All of the stock power valve 250 two stroke motocross engines since the mid 1980s come on the pipe or hit in the 6000 to 7000 RPM range with their peak power occurring in the 8000 to 9000 RPM range
I have never seen a well designed two stroke where a real good pipe matched to the porting would assist the "breathing" of the engine and improve the power over more than 30% of the RPM range.
Example:
Let say the engine makes peak power at 10,000 RPM.
(.30 x 10,000) = 3000 RPM of pipe assisted performance.
This means the the power or hit would occur at approximately (10,000 - 3000) = 7000
The best case scenario would be this engine hits at 7000 and peaks at 10000 with decent overrev.
The majority of the motocross engines stock or modified seldom have a power band width that is over 26% of the RPM range where peak power occurs.
Example:
The engine makes peak power at 8000 Rpm
(8500 x .26) = 2210 RPM wide power band.
This means that the engine would hit at (8500 - 2210) = 6290 RPM
If we knew the RPM where the engine hit, where would the peak power occur on a state of the art engine that could have a power band the is 30% wide?
Lets say it hit at 4000 RPM, where would peak power occur in the best case scenario?
Doing a little bit of algebra to the above equations
the Peak power would occur @ (4000 / .70) = 5714 RPM
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-T
some of us just want a suzuki that looks and drives like a suzuki. +k2
everyone would be perfectly happy with the psi. would be a great pipe to clone for the typical person motorgeek. it had the looks and the sound.
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i know your looking to hit 50hp with a bigger carb but the 4000rpm hit is super on sloppy trails and it was mixed with a great sounding top end.
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keep selling awesome motor and pipes packages motorgeek. iceracer too!
***Edit 1***
tell you what if your hpr250 hits at 4000rpm and peaks at 8000rpm with overrev till 9000rpm... i will want one too maybe.
with those numbers in mind which carb would you want? does it have smaller brothers with the same outlet and inlet size?
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how much hp will people get out of the stock carb?
***Edit 2***
so far i want a 1996 rm250 exect copy. 45hp at 8-9000rpm and clutch dump at 4000rpm. JUST LIKE THE 1996 RM250... drool drool -->
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I have over 130 dyno runs on a 1987 LT250 that we did with various stages of porting, carb changes, head changes and intake system changes that were made a couple of years ago We tested the following pipes and silencers combination of the Paul turner, Dyno port, DRQ/Shearer, FTZ in frame, FTZ drag pipe, and some other pipes than I could not identify. When we got to the more radical stages of porting, some pipes dropped out of the race because they did not complement the radical porting. I can post some of these runs as long as the cheerleaders for some of these pipes do not get their feelings hurt or start another Sh.t storm like when I posted the test results for the HPR19 for the LT500.
I am a mechanical engineer that designs and produces stuff for my company and the companies that I do consulting for. I make my decisions based upon the test results I get from field testing, dyno testing and data acquisition in the field, not on hear say, internet polls and or folklore that seem to be apparent method of testing that some of the other companies must be using. If they were more through in their testing I do not think I would see the test results I see when testing their products.
These were dyno runs we made when we started development on our HPR pipe to see what we are competing against. I am a fierce competitor and do not release products until I have convinced myself that what I have developed is head and shoulder above the competition. We have one HPR design that looks good but I want to develop it a little further before we go into production. I do not know when I will have time to finish this LT250 pipe development due to my time situation and search for more good employees.
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i agree with wannabee 100 percent. the dynoport cant be beaten so far.
if you want a racey zingy sound - perhaps the very pretty lrd is a good choice if u want the hit and sound of a 2 stroke baller.
the ct pipe for the 500 is boring as all hell but it is the most modern of them all. sometimes the best is just to boring.... im not sure about the 250 pipe at ct. perhaps a look there too!
***Edit 1***
I have plenty of videos of my dynoport pipe on my quad on youtube. They big volume pipe is a great pipe. Dynoport also makes a mid-top pipe. I am running a ftz pipe and silencer on my ice quad and let me tell you it's far from fuckin crumby dude. It pulls hard real hard. Paul turner mid pipe is an option fr moto. CT makes a pipe for lts. And the psi is a great pipe also comes on hard and quick. There is lots of things that need to be setup along with the pipe. Can't forget about lrd also. Another strong pipe basically the same as the dynoport big volume. Again so many variables go into the pipe/motor setup to make it work to its full potential. Fmf or the turner mid or psi may be good choices for moto but I like th dynoport big volume.
do you have a video of the dynoport on a stock or ported cylinder? i have been saying that pipe rocks since the dyno image was released.
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I have plenty of videos of my dynoport pipe on my quad on youtube. They big volume pipe is a great pipe. Dynoport also makes a mid-top pipe. I am running a ftz pipe and silencer on my ice quad and let me tell you it's far from fuckin crumby dude. It pulls hard real hard. Paul turner mid pipe is an option fr moto. CT makes a pipe for lts. And the psi is a great pipe also comes on hard and quick. There is lots of things that need to be setup along with the pipe. Can't forget about lrd also. Another strong pipe basically the same as the dynoport big volume. Again so many variables go into the pipe/motor setup to make it work to its full potential. Fmf or the turner mid or psi may be good choices for moto but I like th dynoport big volume.
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Not sure who did the port work. I was gonna send the head to Duncan racing, but my engine builder said whoever did the port work did an awesome job and he wouldn't suggest touching it. The shearer pipe looks good. A little bigger than a FMF pipe, but not as crazy big as a drag/dunes pipe. I'm going to get it in raw finish.
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who did your motox porting? is it tuned for an 8000- 8600rpm powerband? i cant find any videos of the dynoport pipe on a 250.
perhaps there is a pipe im forgeting but the shearer=Q. Shearer makes custom pipes so you can ask for something a little different..... but the shearer is a good happy medium between torque and powerband.
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the pipes that come on smooth and soft at 4000-5000rpm put me to sleep. the shearer has a great clutch dump at 4000-5000 so it makes everyone pretty happy.....yes its big too!
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jerry has nothing for the 250.
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its to bad dynoport does not have a rev pipe with a solid 4000-5000rpm clutch dump. its a great modern design just like the ftz but its tuned 1000rpm lower..... holler at them..... that thing rips on ported cylinders too! the competition will be thinking twice about their 400 pound 450 that are no faster. in fact they mimicked the output of a sport tuned 250 and added weight and throttle responce.
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did i mention i have a diploma for this stuff?
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Thanks sublumacy. All good info. Is shearer jerry? Is the shearer pipe enormous in diameter like the Q pipe I have seen?
**Edit 1**
Googled Matt shearer and looks like I'm going with his pipe. Thanks again for the info👍🏻
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I'm looking for a moto-cross pipe. Not a drag pipe. Has Jerry made a 250 pipe yet?
to answer your question the paul turner is a motox pipe with no powerband like the fmf.
if what you want is a zingy hit on the top end.....you neeed a rev pipe. nothing motox about it.
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more hp takes more revs or it needs to breath better in every way.
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how much you want to change can take it from 35hp to 45 hp.
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whats the question- im not a salesman.....
**Edit 1**
basically the paul turner and dynoport and shearer are the best. the dynoport is the most well rounded and not expensive but again no powerband zing... so the shearer is the next best pipe but its expensive and the ftz makes it sound crumby in comparison. the ftz is no longer in production.
paul turner and dynoport are torque pipes with no zing. the shearer has some zing. nothing else available....
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As of now I have an FMF pipe and silencer. So what is the best moto cross pipe currently available for our quads?
**Edit 1 **
I'm looking for a moto-cross pipe. Not a drag pipe. Has Jerry made a 250 pipe yet?
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they need to test each others machines every year because they are sharing the market.
perhaps sharing the market should be a lesson.
It is the market (people who may buy your product) who determines a particular companies market share. If your product is less than average your companies market share will probably be less than average. If your product is head and shoulders above the competition you will probably monopolize the market unless the competition spends a lot of time and or money promoting/advertising their product.
The old school method was to spend a lot of time and money developing a superior product and let satisfied customers promote your product by word of mouth. Word of mouth promotion by satisfied customers takes a lot of time to reach every potential customer but most customers are already sold when they call, they just want to know how much and when can it be shipped.
It cost a lot of money to develop superior products. It cost much less money to hire an advertising agency that can make an inferior product look superior to your competitors products.
In our current society, the majority of the potential customers do not spend enough time talking face to face with enough customers that have bought similar products from different manufacturers. Buyers remorse frequently happens after choosing and buying a sub-par product.
Advertising agencies know the psychology of the impulsive buyers especially the group that has been labeled "millennials". The millennials are huge targets because they are one of the largest group of our society that uses technology for almost everything in their lives. The lack of face to face conversation, direct observation of the product performing or communicating by phone or emails with real individuals that have hands on experience with a product is the growing problem. We do not know if all of the people we communicate with on forums and other social media are real consumers or paid cheer leaders promoting their clients products.
I talk to prospective customers of our products on the phone daily. The phrase "I have been doing my research on your..............." usually comes up in the first 15 seconds of the conversation. I ask them a few questions and determine they really have not really done much research but are floating on the tide of popular opinion from social media. The favorable opinion of my companies products is good for me but could result in buyers remorse for them.
My advice before buying something for your quad or anything, is too take your time, know who your are talking to on social media, believe only 10% of what is said or implied in radio, tv, printed advertisement and believe 5% of the product reviews in enthusiasts magazines. I have never seen a magazine that does a product review on a product whose company is not a frequent advertiser with the publication.
I am old school in product development and my ways of doing business. I sleep well at night and have very few customers that have buyers remorse with my products.
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they need to test each others machines every year because they are sharing the market.
perhaps sharing the market should be a lesson.
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When I worked for Team Kawasaki we traded bikes with Honda, Suzuki and Yamaha. The Japanese companies did that because they knew that the competition was going to test each other's bikes. To save money by not having to buy competitors bikes, the companies had an agreement with each other. It went something like this.........We will loan you a KX125 if you will loan as one of your CR 125, YZ125, RM125. We will loan you a KX250 if you will loan us a YZ250 and so on. One of Kawasaki's buildings in Santa Anna was full of competitors street and dirt bikes. At the end of the year or when the new models came out, they brought us a new bike and picked up their last years model.
Every american company that I know of, tests the competition's products. It is not about copying others products but knowing how your product compares to the competition. When we developed our HPR19 pipe for the LT500, we tested competitors pipes and we continued our development until we believed that our pipe was substantially better than the competition's pipes, then we released our pipe.
We tested the FTZ inframe and the FTZ out of frame. On our test engine, the in frame pipe worked the best. The pipe LT250R development project has been on hold because I lost a key employee. It will resume when I find a replacement for him or when I catch up on the mountain of work that is in the shop.
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I called FTZ out of Cape Giradeou, MO. They told me they make a pipe for every year LT250R.
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Jerry, is that 250 pipe ready? I have a candidate ?
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Does anybody know if ftz can make a pipe for the 86' 250?
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I ve seen similar results with the testing i have done. Now thats there's some actual data to compare, ill post up a couple graphs from the last time i had a 250 on the rollers. All dyno testing was done with a 92 small reed engine , 41.5 tm mikuni, v force 2 reeds on Heminutt's cylinder.
Red line is Ftz pipe
Blue line is Shearer/Q
Watch out Carl and Jerry, you might get someone spewing all over "You Tube" threads that you photo shopped your dyno results..............
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Any new developments on Jerry,s pipe?
I have been wanting to test a FTZ pipe before doing anymore 250 pipe development. I have located one and should have it in a couple of weeks. Then we will resume with development.
**Edit 1 **
Without getting too technical or giving away any info does anyone have an idea on why the dip on the Shearer pipes?Do the 500 pipes have the same dip and then comes back?Just curious is all as I have no clue when it comes to pipe design.
Dips in the power curve are a result of something in the engine package not being "right". Most of the time the dip occurs at a RPM where the pipe and the porting are not working together.
I have tried about 10 different porting combinations with the LT250 Shearer/Q pipe and I cannot help the dip and I cannot make the dip any worse. I think that maybe the same error in theory, or same design formulas, or same error in testing or same software that was used on the Shearer/Q LT500 pipe was used on the LT250 pipe. It appears the dip is not porting, reeds, cylinder head, ignition or air filter/intake design problem.
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Any new developments on Jerry,s pipe?
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not sure why the dip is there but its anoying lol (pg) when your full bore its like you start pullin hard then it kinda feels as if u let off to 3/4 thottle for a sec, then it pulls again for a sec then shift then... u do it all over agian lol ::)
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Gillo do tell...
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Without getting too technical or giving away any info does anyone have an idea on why the dip on the Shearer pipes?Do the 500 pipes have the same dip and then comes back?Just curious is all as I have no clue when it comes to pipe design.
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There is a dynoport for sale on Craigslist in illinois
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88-92 powervalved engines are superior on the track. the powervalve is the same size as a lt500 aswell as the reeds.
a plus 2mm piston will slightly increase case compression. as would moving the reed closer to the piston.....
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i like the dyno that ice racer posted. there clearly is no " best exhaust" »» THEY ALL MAKE THE SAME TORQUE» the paul turner is great for 6000 rpm. the dyno port is great for 7000 rpm. the ftz is great for 8000 rpm. everything else is just ok.....
you do know that the 87 motors are power valved... right?
Figured a smart guy like yourself would know that.
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I need to measure up my Dynoport and see what one it is. Im gonna give it a whirl this summer on the 285 and see how she runs. Its the only pipe I have rode around on, except for the HPR #1.
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Haha P* P*
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88-92 powervalved engines are superior on the track. the powervalve is the same size as a lt500 aswell as the reeds.
a plus 2mm piston will slightly increase case compression. as would moving the reed closer to the piston.....
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i like the dyno that ice racer posted. there clearly is no " best exhaust" »» THEY ALL MAKE THE SAME TORQUE» the paul turner is great for 6000 rpm. the dyno port is great for 7000 rpm. the ftz is great for 8000 rpm. everything else is just ok.....
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Looks like a good baseline pipe to work off of jerry like u said bring that power on a little sooner you will have a little monster. Always amuses me when some1 that doesnt have the knowledge to make a legit comment but trys to anyways..
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Any pics of the dynoport big volume vs mid top? How is the silencer quality?
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The one's I tested with were the big volume pipes. Its belly section is also 380 c and 140 long.
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Jerry and Carl. Which style Dyno Port was done in your dyno testing? They have a Mid-Top and a "BIG Volume" listed.
The Dyno Port pipe we tested had a mid-section circumference of 380 mm and 140 mm long
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I like seeing that ftZ and shearer dyno comparison. That ftZ has a nice power curve.
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mid top i believe
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Jerry and Carl. Which style Dyno Port was done in your dyno testing? They have a Mid-Top and a "BIG Volume" listed.
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P* P* P* P* P* P* P* P* P* P* P* P* #1>
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get a power valved engine. the 88-92 powervalve puts the T in torque. and its the same size as an lt500. you cant sell that pipe to me based on the 87/ no way! im better off taking joe blows advice on pipes. or am i wrong?
well done trying to fix the scp top end but its been done allready. Also the pt pipe will slay on the track! your just making a rev pipe for a torque port on a non powervalved engine. makes NO sense whatsoever!
You are so out of text, its just pipe testing comparing, I went through six versions of this with my own pipe , I bet HPR will be at #4 to #5 before he see results that he is happy with, we have been asking for dyno post of the LT250s for years, and we got them, the correct answer should be Thank You Jerry, looking forward to seeing new revisions and postings instead of posting trash that you don't understand. I have a very low tolerance for this kind of posting, keep it positive please.
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get a power valved engine. the 88-92 powervalve puts the T in torque. and its the same size as an lt500. you cant sell that pipe to me based on the 87/ no way! im better off taking joe blows advice on pipes. or am i wrong?
well done trying to fix the scp top end but its been done allready. Also the pt pipe will slay on the track! your just making a rev pipe for a torque port on a non powervalved engine. makes NO sense whatsoever!
I am not trying to sell you a pipe. I am ashamed of test pipe #1 and it's narrow power band. I was trying to show the members the effects different pipes have on the power curve on the same engine. If I can build a pipe that comes on similar to the Paul Turner and has the top end similar to test pipe # 1, I will make pipes. In the mean time I will keep testing a showing the results from time to time
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P*
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Same engine same day, I should add all runs were on a Dynojet eddy current 188 machine. we spent about 10 hours on the machine that day. Each pipe was run through all the same variations, power valve changes jetting changes etc untill we had optimised each pipe. Pipes were all run from 3/4 - 2 turns on powervalve.
Red is Dynoport
Blue is Ftz
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I ve seen similar results with the testing i have done. Now thats there's some actual data to compare, ill post up a couple graphs from the last time i had a 250 on the rollers. All dyno testing was done with a 92 small reed engine , 41.5 tm mikuni, v force 2 reeds on Heminutt's cylinder.
Red line is Ftz pipe
Blue line is Shearer/Q
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get a power valved engine. the 98-92 powervalve puts the T in torque. and its the same size as an lt500. you cant sell that pipe to me based on the 87/ no way! im better off taking joe blows advice on pipes. or am i wrong?
well done trying to fix the scp top end but its been done allready. the pt pipe will slay on the track! your just making a rev pipe for a torque port on a non powervalved engine. makes little sense to me.
The 87 engine is a powervalved engine. 85-86 are the non-pv ones
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get a power valved engine. the 88-92 powervalve puts the T in torque. and its the same size as an lt500. you cant sell that pipe to me based on the 87/ no way! im better off taking joe blows advice on pipes. or am i wrong?
well done trying to fix the scp top end but its been done allready. Also the pt pipe will slay on the track! your just making a rev pipe for a torque port on a non powervalved engine. makes NO sense whatsoever!
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Wish you had one of those FTZ pipes to test., Jerry we also posted these results on SQ-HQ Face Book Site.
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I'll ask.....will you be making a lt250 pipe available any time soon?
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We pulled the cylinder a few times, modified the ports to the current level testing each increment of port changes. We installed and tested the HPR/V2 reed assembly and also installed a TM 38 Mikuni bored to 41.5mm.
After getting the ports in the ballpark for this stage of testing, we stated our LT 250 pipe development process. We are showing the graph of what we are calling HPR Test Pipe # 1. The pipe has more Peak power than the other pipes but it is not acceptable to us because we believe we can develop the pipe and ports to produce a wider power band with as much or more peak power and still make it produce more power in the mid and lower RPM range.
It takes time to develop a pipe and port package. Stay tuned for updates:
Blue line is DR Q / Shearer pipe and silencer
Red line is HPR test pipe # 1 pipe and silencer
Green line is Paul Turner pipe and silencer
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The chain appeared a little dry so we thoroughly lubed it an re-ran the test:
The engine spec were unchanged and shows the importance of keeping the chain lubed.
Blue line is Paul Turner pipe and silencer
Red is Dr Q / Shearer and silencer
Green is Dyno Port pipe and silencer
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We resumed engine development on the LT 250 Suzuki after a 25 plus year break. We gathered up an arm load of pipes to do our initial testing. In our initial test we tested the Paul turner pipe and silencer, DR Q / Shearer pipe and silencer, Dyno Port, and a few other that we could not identify the manufacturer of the pipes. We wanted to test a FTZ exhaust system but could not find one for testing. We would still like to test a FTZ. Our test mule is a 1987 LT 250. The engine ports were cleaned up but port timings were not changed. It had a TM38 Mikuni. We modified the stock head. It had Boysen dual stage reed petals on a RM 400 intake manifold. Stock stroke and a 68mm Wiseco piston.
Displayed below is the top 3 pipe contenders tested on the engine specs. listed above.
Blue lines are the Paul Turner
Red is the Dyno Port
Green is the DR Q / Shearer
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We resumed engine development on the LT 250 Suzuki after a 25 plus year break. We gathered up an arm load of pipes to do our initial testing. In our initial test we tested the Paul turner pipe and silencer, DR Q / Shearer pipe and silencer, Dyno Port, and a few other that we could not identify the manufacturer of the pipes. We wanted to test a FTZ exhaust system but could not find one for testing. We would still like to test a FTZ. Our test mule is a 1987 LT 250. The engine ports were cleaned up but port timings were not changed. It had a TM38 Mikuni. We modified the stock head. It had Boysen dual stage reed petals on a RM 400 intake manifold. Stock stroke and a 68mm Wiseco piston.
Displayed below is the top 3 pipe contenders tested on the engine specs. listed above.
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mine came with a PSI pipe that needed a rechrome and a new silencer. i have stock bore and carb/ it was amazing!!! i bought the scp and its nearly the same but i little fatter. i havent tried the scp yet... im afraid i will be disapointed till the engine is ported and the plus 2mm piston is added.
the plan now is to drive the psi pipe till i need more power i guess cause the psi rocked my world and i loved the sound and top end and midrange. on a stock bike anyway.
- my friend has a stock lt500 and he keeps saying that when i open it up he cant catch me..... but i feel the same way about his lt500..... so i think it more about who gets on the gas sooner. they are both intimidating to most any other quads.
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i have alot of personal experience with porting/ so whats the deal? should i ask matt shearer how to port to match the pipe?
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That ftZ is a sexy pipe Gillio! What carb setup are you running? Is that a zilla intake boot and big carb?
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But that FTZ is oh so sexy
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/gillio420/2263_zpshqiiosut.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/gillio420/media/2263_zpshqiiosut.jpg.html)
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There are different shaped fmf fatty pipes. What is the difference? Some are in front of the engine like factory and some are similar to a 500 pipe side mounted.
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best pipe is still the one with the dimensions that most closely match the engines porting. ftz/shearer/dyno port pipes are all heavy hitters for ported engines not for stock engines. hopefully el diablo will post his dyno testing figures some time this century while we can still ride... -->
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ive been told the shearer and ftz are really close
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i have the dyno port on my bartlett 250 and IMO pulls harder and has much better torque then the shearer pipe. it makes peak close th the same rpm as shearer just no over rev
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Some lucky member with LT250 needs to do a Dyno Run with a few pipes and post the results, would be some nice info to share.
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So is the Shearer still the best pipe or is the FTZ inframe now the top dog?
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I took a bunch off youtube.
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Here is another video of wot runs!!Jetting is still a little rich.Im going to work on it some more today. With some videos.
http://youtu.be/dHu_8X0og-8
Video gone?:(
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I think I have one but the original owner repaired the one mount and it looks like bird droppings unfortunately. Let me take a look again to see what's there....
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This pipe will pull forever and some more. Im going to make a new video to show the difference of what it does on my quad now to when i took them videos.
Look forward to it.
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do you happen to have a fmf pipe for a 85 lt250r iam interested in getting one,here is my email address slickrob2002@yahoo.ca my name is rob thanks eh.
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It has been a long time since i posted in this thread, But it only took since February to get to the point im at now. Alot of work and problems. But in them video i made the quad wasnt running right at all. It was my reeds or the stator. But i have finally felt the power this pipe has to offer. So if anyone is in the market for a pipe for the lt250r ,save your money and buy this pipe. This pipe will pull forever and some more. Im going to make a new video to show the difference of what it does on my quad now to when i took them videos.
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Sound alot better since i repacked the silencer, it didnt have much packing and the pop rivets came loose on me the first time i ran it. So i put bolts in it instead of rivets, but i cant open it up for awhile re break in my bottom end since rebuild.
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Gotta love that sound.Sounds awesome. +k2
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Had to repack the silencer,It was soaked with oil. The pin came out of the floats and was running super rich.
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Sounds like yer short shiftin her.....then again 5th wide open in the sand dunes is a lil different than pullin on the pavement.
I was a little bit.
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this video just made my day,cant wait to hear mine run again!
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Sounds like yer short shiftin her.....then again 5th wide open in the sand dunes is a lil different than pullin on the pavement.
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Here is another video of wot runs!!Jetting is still a little rich.Im going to work on it some more today. With some videos.
http://youtu.be/dHu_8X0og-8
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Thanks! So far im happy with it.Sound and power.I was having porblem holding the front down in 3 gear today.I cant believe the all around spread of the pipe.When i get the other stuff done to my quad, it will be a power house.
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it does sound nice (Y)
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Sounds pretty damn good. +k2
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Her a video me playing on my Nehew track we made for him
http://youtu.be/4S6P2GN5i1Q
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Yeah, there is that to contend with.
I've never used an airbox with my LT's, just an open element filter.
I think the RM500 uses a straight intake boot with the same diameter, but it only works on an 87.
Another option is to get in touch with 500Fanatic and have him build a billet intake boot to your specs, they're pretty sweet.
Aside from that, you can use the stock boot, just keep an eye on it.
If that rubber cracks you'll have air leaks to deal with while you're tuning too.
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I was going to buy a new Zilla intake boot. But everyone told me it wouldn't let the carb line up to the. Air box intake. So I just bought a brand new lt 6bolt intake for. 250. I was looking at them and thought maybe the91to92 air box style would work with the Zilla boot on the lt250r. But any ideas on how. It gets zingy after the throttle shut after a wide open run?
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A 38mm actually will fit in the stock boot without too much trouble and you,ll likely have to go richer
due to the lesser signal of the bigger carb.
I've gone down that road, yes it'll fit without too much trouble, but if the intake boot is old it'll crack or tear, and if you leave the carb on long enough it'll eventually cause the boot to crack.
The zilla boot was designed for that size carb, so it'll fit without any problems and it won't stretch the boot out and cause it to crack prematurely.
Not only that, but the intake boot is larger and flows better.
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The problem that im i having is after wot 5th and 6th .When i close the throttle it get zinggy.untill the rpm come down.Ive tried bigger main and bigger piolts .The only thing i havent tried is a different needle.But it seems to pull hard from bottom to top.With the pwk on it was doing it.It used to only do it with the fmf when i had the 38 on it.After i think about it.The fmf was doing it to.Ever since i rebuilt the top end.I got my head shaved.It seems it being do it ever since i had that done.I never had checked the squish on my quad.Im doing it tomorrow anyways i got to get the measurement for Carl ,So he can do his thing to the head im going to be using.I wonder if its way out of spec.It didnt do it before i think about it.Im going to put a video up in a minute or 2 of me running it today.
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A 38mm actually will fit in the stock boot without too much trouble and you,ll likely have to go richer
due to the lesser signal of the bigger carb.
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The TM38 from a zilla is another alternative for a 250 carb, all you have to do is buy a zilla intake boot (just make sure it's the right bolt pattern, 5 bolt for 87, 6 bolt for 88+).
The main and pilot jets you have for your stock TM will interchange too, though you're probably going to be running different sizes.
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I took the pwk off.Im done with that carb untill i get my head mod done.Put the stocker back on.It ran so much better.Make the pipe super zippy in the low to mid randge.But the wierd thing is.I can go up to 240 main,it doesnt load up and choke its self out.But it is super lazy.To get it to pull hard i had to go down to a 200 main Almost the same as my Fmf! Im going to make a video in a little bit of some high speeds runs with it on!!
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Thanks! My leg is kind a close but not to bad.Those are Ohlins fronts respringed and valved by Pep
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Nice looking quad.How close is the pipe to your leg while riding?Works shocks on the front?
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Here is a couple pics of it on the quad.Still working on jetting but i was able to finally get the 38pwk to rich.so im going to back it down tomorrow.
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The new jets and needles will be here Friday.I order them 2 mondays ago.The seller missed the payment and didnt send them when i paid.So im hoping to work on it some this weekend but its going to be really cold. So im hoping one day soon.I will get pic and videos soon!!
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Any updates?
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I put the fmf back on and it was doing the same thing.No control of the idle.I put a 40 pilot jet inHas a 35 pilot in it It started to idle again fine.I was to lean on my piolt.Im going to order needles and some more jet for the 38 pwk and get it to work.I already have it and have a bunch of money in jets and parts for it. Also going to buy a zilla intake boot and run the stock cage and sell the rad valve.
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Look here.
http://www.suzukiquadracerhq.com/bartlett-racing/jetting-1007/new/#new
Should help figured Id write it once so I can reference it. Easier.
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I meant dgk in the carb
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DGL needle would be way lean on my 250r, I had a DGH but it pinged low to mid...DGG solved the problem.
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You idle problem is from the slide either being loose and or too high. If you have the slide too high you are not using the pilot circut. Set theslide height at 2-3 mm use a drill bit or wire to set it. Then adjust the pilot and air screw.
To set the slide do you pull the slack out of the cable and use the cable to lift it or do you use the air screw for the idle.I had the idle screw all the way out and my piolt was set at 1/ half turn.Cable was slacked.It would idle fine then if i reved it it would spike and didnt want to come down.Pwk was doing the same thing but on it when i would pull the choke it would raise the idle by alot untill it got rich. then fell off.It also would idle and the just shoot up for no reason.but only after i would run it hard it took its time to come back down..But not as bad.What year is your quad im running 91.I dont like the boot that goes from the airbox how it curves around the shock to the carb a pain in the butt to get the bigger carb on. i was running 38pwk 195 main dgl needle and 65 piolt.Stock carb was 35 piolt not sure on the needle 230 main
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Op??????????????
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What jetting pilot and main is the OP running?
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You idle problem is from the slide either being loose and or too high. If you have the slide too high you are not using the pilot circut. Set theslide height at 2-3 mm use a drill bit or wire to set it. Then adjust the pilot and air screw.
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I run a bored out TM 38. You want the thick bodied carb so if you want to bore it you can. You will need differnt brass that's really the only hard part to tuning it. It will want a 4.0 slide, a 6dk3 needle and 400+ main.
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Done the leak down test. I started at 8 psi and after 10 minutes it went down to between 6 and 7.So from what i have read that is what you want.So im at complete loss now.Why it wouldnt idle right.Doesnt make sense to me.
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I almost had the pwk tuned the mid range was a little lean.I did a bunch of wide open runs and never lock the motor up.I have to have a air leak, the idle would be fine and then it would jump 1000 to 1200 rpms from idle on me. After i would run it hard.Or after i would sit for a few seconds it would idle fine then jump up really high then sound zingy and lean..I built a leak down tester last night.Doing my test in a few minutes.But the quad would pull harder then it ever pulled .Then a couple run later same setup it wouldnt pull good at all.. I could not believe how fast Scp pipe got on its power.if i get it tuned right every quad on my block better watch out for the old lt250r!!!!
What carb you run Iceracer !!
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Yep,the midrange was the toughest to get dialed in.Had to go to a leaner needle from the stock Honda that the carb came with/off of.Far greater selection of Honda needles available than the standard Mikuni ones.Trouble is they,re more expensive due to being factory Honda and the numbers are completely different.
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If you have a Tmx that runs good you are lucky, they are a similar design to a keihin and you must of found the rite needle. The midrange can be worse than keihin to dial on those.
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I,m running a 38mm Mikuni TMX carb which works good as well.Hoping to try the Lectron a try come spring.
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a zilla carb is the same as a tm38
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so the tm38 is really that much better than all the others.
i run a pwk air striker on mine and i thought it was a huge improvment over the stock carb.
what about a zilla carb on the 250, anyone run of them.
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tm 38 is the way to go. i went through 4 carbs making my decision stocker, lectron 38, pwk 39 and ended up with a modded tm38. ask carl he has the hot setup for the tm38 and it seems to run much more reliably than the PWK.
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yea for now untill i have Iceracer setup my motor.unless i can get running better today.Dont get me wrong its running pretty good.I think the people i had do my port work messed it up and they hurt it more then helping it .I dont think the Rad valve is helping either.But the pipe has alot of potential in it.If i could just get it tuned or find out what my problem is.Im thinking i might have a airleak or something wrong in the electrical system.Something is not right with my bike.It should be so hard to tune a 38mm carb.I never could get it to run right with fmf.I got another parts quad might be taken the cdi off it and other parts and just swap them to see if their a difference.
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You are going to put the FMF back on?!
:o
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I got it to run pretty good today with the pwk but just not right.the pipe has a bunch of potential.The 38mm gave more topend and rev .I put the stock back on.I couldnt believe how much low end and midrange i got from it.But now its kind of flat on the top.Also i change power valve to be stiffer made a huge difference.Im going to put my fmf back untill i get the mikuni 38mm.Also have you do my head work and porting and change my cage to something else.I know i havent had as much top end since the rad valve.But it made huge difference with fmf setup.But what would be the best carb for this.Minkuii 38 tm or something else.I want to stay with something that is pretty easy to tune and not have to change the jetting for every little weather condition.Kiehin is just to picky for me.
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sent you a pm, Sounds like the carb is off, I was never entirely happy with the way the Keihin ran on my machines, with all the time I spent I never got It just rite, always close but pushing a dead spot around.
Also with the combination of parts your running you might be happier with boring your stock carb a little, the trail port, the rad valve, both of those are restrictive and Like a little less carb,
With a Rad valve and big carb you get a pretty bad mismatch in the intake tract, that a carb wont deal with well. The carb should be the smallest part in that portion of the intake, not just after it in the throat of the rad valve. There should should only one restriction and that should be at the needle for correct carburation.
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Bigest issue im having is the pipe has top end but it act like it doesnt charge it self onto the pipe in the midrange.Doesnt feel like its coming onto the pipe untill the veryend at topend.Basically no midrange or low end.Im going to play with my jetting some more today.
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You want it to close as the pipe's tuned RPM is starting to hit.
There is no specific setting that will work for everyone!
Tons of different factors come into play, but a good starting point is an extra 1/4 turn from what you have now (assuming your PV is adjusted to stock settings).
Kick it into high gear and lug the engine, give it full throttle so you can feel the engine making the power slowly, feel the dips and hesitations as it gets on the pipe.
Adjust the PV a little bit and see what it does to your powerband, you'll start feeling it getting smoother if you're going the right way and lose power going the other way (or a step/hesitation/dip in power).
Tweak it all the way to 1/8th or even 1/16th turn, because any more than that and you won't be able to tell the difference in adjustments.
Be sure you tune the powervalve AFTER you tune the carb, full throttle runs for extended durations aren't good if you're running lean!
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What is the ideal setting for power valve.Do you want it to shut sooner or later.I did have to go up serval jets sizes.When i first took off it didnt have any power.Then went up and hit it in second came off the about 3 feet.
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Don't forget to tune your powervalve, there's extra power to be had when it's well adjusted!
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It's a lot different. Before I rebuilt n modded mine I just had the 39mm car with stock porting n stuff and I had a Pro Circuit pipe on it and it wouldn't pull near what the ported motor with the Shearer pipe on it does. I couldn't believe the difference!
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Put it on today.I used the stock carb to see if their was a difference.It has alot more topend for sure and mid is still really good.Just a little loss on the bottom but i havent got it jetted just right yet.Im going to get the stock right tomorrow and then put the 38 pwk on and get it right.Im just seeing what all work and work the best.But it looks good and sounds really good.alot a difference in sound from the FMF pipe and silencer.
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Do you have the rubber isolator with the stud on one or both sides.
Yes it what im talking about. Does it go up by the tank or on the silencer. My Threads are messed up under the tank where you connect the pipe to the frame. I tried to retap the thread but no luck with it. Iwill get that figured out today.Also another issue i have had is i have the stock grab bar with the 2 inch spacer welded to it. Makes the silencer stick out to far.But im going to cut that off flush.
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On my 87 250 with a q pipe. I used the stock rubber isolator on the mount by the tank. Had two studs hanging out of it. And i say use a rubber mount on the rear mount for the silencer, like a stock zilla rubber isolator and spacer bushing.
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Do you have the rubber isolator with the stud on one or both sides.
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Dont forget the heat tape on the bottom of the tank!
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Where's the pics? P*
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Umm, rubber spacer?? D?
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I run 110 and 93 half half.Guys on this pipe does the rubber spacer go up towards the pipe under the gas tank or down on the stinger.Im having problems getting the pipe on without hitting the gas tank and trying to line up the hole in the frame under the gas tank.This beast has no room!!
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Oh yeah, I forgot I'm also runnin a cool head with a 22cc dome givin my 15:1 compression as well n I'm runnin 110 race gas @ 32:1 mixed with 927. So its makin some great power for me, which is great in the dunes where I ride.....and it smells delicious as well with the 927 and 110 lol.
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I have some porting on mine .Im going to send a jug to iceracer and let him do his thing to it.I want one kind of mild and 1 wild.
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I think I had a pretty good write up on this pipe last year when I got mine....but that would be on the other site. It'll pull...and then pull somemore....and then keep pullin....then again I have a Bartlett ported motor workin together with the pipe and the over rev and pipe workin together it well, pulls some more even. At first my PV wasn't adjusted properly and it made my bike seem pipey sorta like a Shee. But I adjusted the PV and it 'came on' sooner and was less pipey and alot more fun!! Never rode my 250 with this pipe and stock port work, but with this pipe, Bartlett porting, and a 39mm pwk I surprised/upset quite a few people on their thumpers. Except for that DS650 i think it was....and the Zillas I was with....my buddies with just a piped 450 lookin at my "little 20 year old ring ding dinger".....well.....a couple tried n tried but it wasn't happenin. I put a 20 yr old a$$ whoopin on them!
Its a great pipe!
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Here is his ad on ebay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/120963999108?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
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Matt should be selling his 250 pipe either in the classifieds "Buy It Now" or get set up in the Store section, think there is enough interest in his pipe to sell a few .
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When it rains it pours.Your not the only one with bad luck.Black cats cross my path in pairs:lol:
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Got my lonestar axle and the company off Ebay that sold it to me.Sent the wrong one to me.Its for 85 trx250r.This after i had problem with them shipping it to me.Cant not believe this!!!!!
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Sweet!Even looks fast :)
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Very nice!
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Here is some pic of the Scp pipe
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SCP P just showed up some p ic in few!!!!!!! P*
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i had pt p&s ,stock port on my 91. it was ok but no top end. i got the q pipe with stock port and it was like wow. it made a huge diff everywhere. now the pt was smoother than the q but not near the power. then i sent off my cyl to bartlett racing. now im right on the tail of these honda 330 bolt ons. im even beating some of them. who ever told u a pt pipe is better is completely wrong. it is kind of a snappy pipe but i run mine in the woods every weekend and it does great
And the Hondas with the 310 kits you'll be side by side with or in front of! As long as you have some porting to go with it! Shearer makes GREAT pipes for the 250!
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did you get that pipe yet S~
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i think i paid 550 shipped. i would prob call it 630 cause i wouldnt think u would need the heat shield. still not a bad deal imo.
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683 dammm he is making a killing on those pipes, i think the old one was 450 or 500 bucks with nickle coating
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The nickel finish that was on the older Q pipe seemed to hold up good (but I ride in dry climates), I can't say how long the chrome on your pipe will last though.
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unless you paid for it. pipe is raw
I paid for the chrome and heat shield all in one bundle when i bought it. Final total was 683$ shipped.
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unless you paid for it. pipe is raw
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Its all good it will be this week sometime I will give shearer pipe and Matt 1 thing so far.Is good customer service.He as called me back everytime ive called him and quickly to..Their will be another nice day or il just bundle up and ride in the cold.I think the axle will be here Monday.The big reason i wrote the other threads is i paid extra for shipping for the axle to get shipped quicker and they missed it when they shipped it and it went to a different shipper.They refunded my money for the mistake but it didnt help me get my axle any quicker .It is the part i need the most.I have a 2+2 durablue and right side is bent and in 5 and 6 gear it about throws you off the bike.I would like to be able to do a wot run since I redone the motor.Im thinking about when i get the pipe just to wait till spring before i put it on.So it doesnt get salt on it .Or is the Chrome on it pretty tuff and could hold up to weather.My Fmf with the nickel didnt last to long looking good.About 1 year it was looking ruff.
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BLAAA!!HAHA!!! S~ S~
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7 days and no pipe, eh?
Good thing you didn't order it from Q a few years ago, or you'd be waiting WEEKS or MONTHS instead of days.
You don't realize how good you have it LOL
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The weather is nice for the first time in over 2 months.Really wanted to ride this weekend before it got cold and snowy againBut that is all down the drain now..
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Patience grasshopper....
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I spent 955 dollars last Friday and this Friday i still have nothing to show for it.Pipe hasnt showed up.The axle they sent Ups instead of Usps i paid extra for shipping so they would ship it faster.Didnt see i paid them extra so i wont get it till next week sometime. 70 degrees for the next 3 days and i wont get to enjoy the stuff i bought.I ll get it next week when it starts snowing again.
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Fingers crossed talk to matt shipped it monday so hopefully today,but im not very lucky,Im dying to try it out and put it on my quad with a new lonestar axle that might be here tomorrow to.
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Ii will give a good review of it with some good pics of it when im all done. Just a couple more day to wait.
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Please give us a good write up, review, and some pics!! +k2
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I cant wait till mid week is here.Its going to be mid 50s.It will be a great day for riding since its only been 29 for the last week or colder.I have had to bundle up for the last week riding.Did you guys have to go up in jetting alot when you install the pipe. Or was your jetting close when you installed the pipe.
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Your new pipe is going to have more low end power than the FMF, you just won't be able to tell because there's such a massive increase in power in mid-high end. It'll feel like there's less power there but that's only because you'll be spoiled to that extra power up top. It's not a scientific measurenent, but I was able to tow a dead blaster through the dunes in 3rd without getting on the pipe. The FMF was only able to tow it in 2nd ON the pipe.
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Hold on tight when you get the new pipe on +k2
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The fmf isnt bad when jetted right .But alot of people have said they havent had to jet them at all.When i got my quad it had a fmf and uni filter.It had the stock jetting in it.I didnt really have to mess with the jetting to started adding reeds and stuff. But its a really good pipe for woods riding. But its even got more grunt once you do some trail porting,But it lose top end after that. But i got the pipe maxed out with all the mods i have on the quad. Im all about helping people out. Their only about 10 or 11 of these pipes out their I want to give anyone whos wanting to upgrade my opinion about my setup When its done..I remember the old site when one of the people on the forum was doing a pipe shootout. He was getting all the pipes and was going to dyno them all. But it got ended before it got finished.I was stoked to see the result of it.But i started this thread so people would have setup choices,so they could make a choice with out investing a ton of money and not getting something they really didnt want . I appreciate all the help thats been throwing my way. I was going to go with the pt pipe. But in the long run it probally wasnt what i was looking for in my quad.Which would have been 600$ mistake.Im sorry if i sounded sarcastic wasnt trying to.But do apologize if i offended anybody.
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Nope........the butt dyno has no value and is not real.
The instrumentation needed to calibrate the butt dyno can become uncomfortable at times! lol O0
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There's a pretty sarcastic under tone one this site. Were're all pretty pretty helpful once were are done joking around haha. I put a FMF on my 92 when I first got it. It looked and sounded way better than stock. The performance was so-so. There was a good improvement in low end, but not really much up top. Although I wasn't into jetting propperly back then. I alway wanted to ride a FMF when its jetted right. Probably not much difference though.
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Nope........the butt dyno has no value and is not real.
Sorry LT250RWV - I am just being sarcastic. I am with you - if you ride it and you like it, it's all good.
http://www.suzukiquadracerhq.com/lt500r-exhaust/dr-q-v2-0-pipe-and-2-0-engine/ (http://www.suzukiquadracerhq.com/lt500r-exhaust/dr-q-v2-0-pipe-and-2-0-engine/)
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Well il tell you what i do think the fmf isn't much better then the stock pipe.It is a clean pipe, really smooth.But like i said it doesnt have much top in it.Im not big into dyno numbers, anyone can make a page that looks good.With good numbers You know without good proof of the runs of the machine that is on it.Im talking about a page printed at the bottom of a website.With no video proof just printed.I just wanted to know what people like about the pipe.I will know next week if its good or not.But i do trust the opinion of people who have runs several different pipes and setups.Eveyone i talk to said they like it and was worth it. I really havent run to many setups on these quads.I really didnt want to try 20 year old pipes that have the same design when these quads were new.Im going to post the difference in this pipe when i get it on and jetted correctly. I think will work out great and i will like it.Just cant wait till i get and try it.
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what? I'm just saying. hahaha If he really wants a FMF, I have 4 of them hanging in my garage. He can have them, maybe weld em all together and make FMF 2.0. lol
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HaHaHaHaHaaaaaaa!!! P* :))
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All these recommendations are worthless without proven back to back dyno results!!! FMF!!! FTW!!! -T Hi^ D? -->
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I went from a Trinity system to a Shearer, And what a difference. I will not be changing pipes until new new pipe technology starts coming around.
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Keep us posted.I,m interested to hear the results. :)
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You won't be disappointed.
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Order the Scp pipe today.I got the chrome with heat shield.Matt was very helpful to me.Also want to thank everyone for helping me out on their input on their pipe.Cant wait to get it. +k2 +k2 :))
thanks
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i had pt p&s ,stock port on my 91. it was ok but no top end. i got the q pipe with stock port and it was like wow. it made a huge diff everywhere. now the pt was smoother than the q but not near the power. then i sent off my cyl to bartlett racing. now im right on the tail of these honda 330 bolt ons. im even beating some of them. who ever told u a pt pipe is better is completely wrong. it is kind of a snappy pipe but i run mine in the woods every weekend and it does great
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i went from an FMF and it was a night and day difference. I also have carl's porting which matches the pipe.
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The AAEN 250 pipe is their old flat track pipe from the early 90's. Thats from the legend Olav AEEN, They don't have a new 250 pipe. It's an old design based off the Don Emler early FMF's... OLD TECH..... one of the best really Cheap 250 pipes.
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I run an Aaen which has great low and mid,so so top end...Haven,t run a SCP but if the other guys say its #1 its a good bet as they know their stuff.Just depends if ya want to ante up or not.
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DUDE.............. PM pipester(MATT/SCP) you won't find a better answer. Not PT, LRD or anything else for a 250BEST 250 PIPE availible
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was it a big inprovement on your bike .Have you run any other pipes on your bike.
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I run a scp/Q pipe and pretty much ride everything, trails, drag, MX, Dune.
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What is so good about Scp this pipe does it have topend or mid range or low end.Another guy on here said a stocker with a pt on it would outrun his bike on wide open runs he has the Scp pipe.He say its only good for midrange.I want a all round pipe.Just not one range in the pipe.So let me know
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SCP pipe hands down. PM pipester on here. $485 Raw, $585 Chrome. + $50 for heat shield.
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Am in the market for a new pipe Fmf runs good all around to me But their got to be better.I have only run the stock and the fmf .If anyone got different pipes please say what is and what is the best about them top end mid range or low end.Their is no dyno pipe shoot out to compare to.Also their not alot pipes for the 250r.But i think this would help people make the best buy for them in the future if their was more info on this subject.,So people could get closer to what they want power wise.