Suzuki Quadracer HQ
LT500R Quadracer => LT500R - Engine => Topic started by: Rem28ga on December 27, 2012, 10:20:13 am
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I believe the air screw is out 2 turns. I will pull the pilot to see what is in it. I am not sure about slide height adjustments. How do I determine that? I have never had to do that before. I just adjust the throttle cable and fine tune with the idle screw on the side.
You are 100% correct about the chain! I ordered one for an 87 and they sent one for an 89. I need to shorten it two links and then adjust. I was taking a big chance riding it that way. Not smart. It will be adjusted properly before I ride it again.
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Get in the habit of turning off the pet **** every time you stop. If it starts quicker by holding the throttle open, the engine is flooded or like Bad Moon said that the air screw setting or pilot jet may be too rich. The air screw setting should be about 1 1/4 to 2 turns out and the pilot in the range of 22.5 to 30.
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Your chain looks like it needs adjusted or replaced its almost saging to the ground.
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If it starts better with the throttle open its likely your pilot is rich. What are you running for a pilot and what is the air screw on the carb set at? Also did you adjust the slide height?
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Also, I am thinking a bigger pilot jet would help with starting. It is a bear to start, if I hold the throttle wise open it starts on third or fourth kick. Would a bigger pilot help out with his?
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Here are some pictures
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It was sweet! Can't wait to get her to the dunes and see what it will do. Gonna be a whole lot different than the 4stroke kfx440 I have been riding. One question though, it bike seems to have a bit of vibration. Is this normal. Reminds me of the Harley's. hands are going to get numb. I really don't have anything else to compare it to. I will post some pic here in a bit. I still need to put the plastics nod seat back on, but you get the idea!
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Its a great feeling after all that work to get these old machines running!!
Brraaaapp!!
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Congrats man! I'm not even to roller status on my build yet hopefully with some late nights this week of polish work I'll have a roller by next weekend. Then it'll be time to get my cylinder back on new piston installed and mount the motor and Q pipe! I can't wait to be fighting it to come to life for the first time!! Congrats again and enjoy!
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Congrats man!! Post some pics... I am almost at the point your at now... some more minor things and I'll be ready to start mine too... been many many years... congrats !
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Today was awesome. I took my first ride on the zilla. Finally got around to pulling it out of the garage and firing it up after winter! It was a **** to kick over at first but when it did, it roared to life. I shut it don, let it cool and did it again. This time I was able to get run at an idle. It purred. Tonight I fired it up again and took it for a ride. No plastics or seat, I just sat on the frame and took off. I couldn't wait any longer! This has been 14 months in the making. Gonna take it down to sand lake here in a couple of weeks.
I still need to bleed the brakes, and hook some lights up. Almost there! New exhaust would be nice, but he fmf will have to do for now.
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Put it away till spring unless to plan on riding it with it being this cold?
You'll put effort into jetting for these temps and then turn around and rejet when it warms up again.
Only my 2c
Oh and fix that float!!
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Yippee! After waiting for my replacement coil, picking up a couple new plugs and finding a new stator from a guy here locally I finally got back after the bike. Today it started, very tough at first, but then away it went. I let it run to warm up and then it started to run away at the idle so I shut it off.
I waited until it was cool and got after it again. It didn't want to fire up. I pullled the plug, still had spark, kicked the bike over several time with no plug, put the plug back in and vroom, started right back up. It really seemed to idle evenly, I know there are adjustments that need to be made, but it seemed pretty smooth. I would rev it slightly, let it come back down, rev it slightly....It did not run away this time.
Went to do it a third time after it cooled down completely and same thing. I must be getting some fuel build up, because it really explodes very loud in the pipe at first. almost like a huge back fire. Once I repeated pulling the plug (plug looked great not black, but more of a nice tan) kicked it over a few times without the plug in it, put the plug back in away it went again. This time it ran for bit then but then wanted to die. I can see there is fuel in the filter so it shouldn't be running out of gas. Maybe too much fuel? Kind of strange.
I am wondering if the float level is too high as I am getting fuel out of the overflow. I am also seeing fuel around the manifold where the pipe connects. I did what Jerry suggested and added some premium to my avgas/castor mix. It really seems to be more mixed now. It was in the upper 20's low 30's today so figured it can't hurt. Any suggestions
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Dayum.. Nice Bronc. Any info on the zilla rebuild start up is appriciated. I am doing the top end on mine right now. Ran fine before, but I am also going with HPR for some things for reliability and hope to be firing up the bike in about 2 weeks.
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Here is my '74. I just finished with the EFI and '98 Explorer 4r70w Transmission install. This has been a 3 year frame-off resto.
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I love me some early Bronco's - post some pics!!
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Well ordered up a new ingnition coil today. Tried again using all of the advice above and no go. Got pissed so moved on to my 1974 bronco. Just a few more wires and fuel injection/4r70w swap will be complete.
I will try on the zilla again tomorrow! Hopefully by then my calf won't still feel like a giant charlie horse!!! Thanks gus I appreciate all of your help.
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if you have lots of antifreeze that leaked in your base before your rebuild it can be a **** to start, my zilla did that once when i blew the head gasket. You would see it on your plug tho.
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Anything that is below spec will not function properly.
lots of ppl have complained about avgas and 927 separating at colder temps too.
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I will give these things a try. I wondered about the Avgas. It was in the low 40's here yesterday so this is good information to have. Would an ignition coil with 1.7 reading have to weak of a spark? The manual shows a range of 3-5. This was the only component that didn't check out.
I am going to pick up some extra plugs today so I can swap them out. I will re-check to make sure there are no air leaks. When I pulled the stator the other day, I noticed the crank seal was no longer seated so there was lots soot on the stator and cover. I believe this might be the reason why the bike was taken apart by the previous owner. I seated it back in, but will check to make sure it is still in place. I may have to order another seal.
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Okay- so the day has finally come! I am going to start this beast up. Worked all day yesterday going through wiring issues and now I finally have spark!!! Thank goodness for the factory manual and an Ohm meter.....
So I just went and got 5gal of aviation fuel, a bottle of Maxima Castor 927, mixed 32:1 I have been reading all kinds of oil to use in transmission. What oil do you guys recommend? As far as break-in goes, what all should I do to properly accomplish this. I don't want to start getting impatient now, this project has taken a long time and I really don't want to screw it up now.
Thanks in advance!
Disconnect the fuel line from the carb and drain about a pint or more into a quart jar. Shake up the fuel in the jar. Is the fuel cloudy or crystal clear? Clear indicates the fuel and oil are mixed at a molecular level. Cloudy indicates the fuel and oil are not compatible at the current fuel temperature.
Avgas and 927 has problems mixing at a molecular level when the fuel temperatures are below 60 to 70 deg. F. This is also true with many high-octane race fuels. Always check your fuel for cloudiness when the weather and fuel start getting cold.
Putting a quart to a half-gallon of premium pump gas in to 5 gallons of Avg gas will usually act as a good blending agent to keep the 927 mixed at a molecular level. You cannot tune a two stroke when the fuel is cloudy. The engine will not be getting the same air/fuel/oil mixture every engine revolution. After cloudy fuel has set a short time the fuel will become clear because the oil has settled to the bottom of the float bowl and fuel tank. At this point the engine will be trying to run on pure oil.
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just recheck jets in carb, first time you turn carb on after having it apart
is when you will most likley have something clog a jet, after that make sure
you dont have a **** reed boot and all clamps are on tight, back to the air
filter and all reed cage bolts any air leak will give you trouble starting it. then
make sure you have the stator markslined up. and when you are kicking it over
are you just kicking the **** out of it.
that may be why you got kick back. try to cycle motor over to hardest spot, then
cycle over it to next hard spot and kick from there. the zilla only fires every other
time per rev.
leave bike off, just flow through the kicker a few times, this will prime motor.
then cycle motor to 2nd hard spot on kicker, IT WILL START. if everything else
is ok.
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I guess I didn't because I have never heard of doing that. How do I go about it? I did not see it in the manual. Thanks
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How did you set the slide height?
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I tried rolling it over to prime it with the choke on and then a good hard kick. It has the Mikuni on it. I sent it down to Jerry Hall for him to work over so it is now 41mm I believe. He jetted it based on my altitude, and the Uni air filter. He also did the cylinder work, set the squish and o-ringed the head. When I put it back together, I used the billet washers and RM250 wrist pin bearing.
When I say it fired, ignition was made, but not long enough to do anything. At first As I was kicking, I left the throttle closed. I then tried WOT and kicked it over. That really caused a major kickback, the back of my leg is black!!!
Based on my Ohm meter, my ignition coil is 1.79 on the secondary. The manual says it should be 3-5. Not sure if this would cause it or not. When I pull the plug and ground it to the pipe while attached to the coil I can see the blue spark. From what I am reading, there is a technique to this. I am trying but just have not found it yet.
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Tell us about the carb you are running -
You are close - its getting gas and spark!
My Zilla was a beast to get started the first time after a full rebuild. After I got the hang of it, its not so bad.
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When you were able to get it to start, what was your procedure? When you rebuilt it did you clean the carb completely? Choke or no choke when starting? When it did fire up, did you give it a lil gas and it died or did it just die at idle?
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So tried most of the afternoon to get this thing to fire up. Had a couple moments where it fired, but died immediately. It is getting gas as the plug is wet, there is spark, so not sure where to look. I checked the magneto and pick-up coil yesterday with my Ohm meter. They both were within spec. The main coil was a little lower than spec, but still has spark. Maybe it is too weak? There is good compression.
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Okay- so the day has finally come! I am going to start this beast up. Worked all day yesterday going through wiring issues and now I finally have spark!!! Thank goodness for the factory manual and an Ohm meter.....
So I just went and got 5gal of aviation fuel, a bottle of Maxima Castor 927, mixed 32:1 I have been reading all kinds of oil to use in transmission. What oil do you guys recommend? As far as break-in goes, what all should I do to properly accomplish this. I don't want to start getting impatient now, this project has taken a long time and I really don't want to screw it up now.
Thanks in advance!