Suzuki Quadracer HQ
LT500R Quadracer => LT500R- Exhaust => Topic started by: CTATV on December 05, 2012, 04:36:19 pm
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Great job on your zilla!!! Ive had the Sheriff called on me numerous times when i run my zilla with the hpr#19 pipe!! The best parts of it is my brother is a Sherriff & its his buddys that show up when someone calls on me!!! --> -->
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Looks great and I always love the sound of the Zilla's. do your neighbors hate you when your running it? The old couple down the street won't talk to me anymore.
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I concur... Zilla looks sweet sounds great too
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Nice job looks great!!!
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wow, bike looks good, nice job.
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Sweet looking machine. +k2...Did you have to play with the jetting after the first startup?Sounded lean in the vid but I could be wrong.
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Sounds awesome and looks great. There is something about that big 500 slug firing away.
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Turned out great (Y) Get us some riding video's.
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Nice looking bike. I cant wait to watch a video of you riding it.
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(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/C79A1A88-9391-4444-9A18-354E47606586-696-0000007CBF411E42.jpg)
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/F5F7E42F-93DD-446F-8190-C3E9781F832F-696-0000007CE4B98AFC.jpg)
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/5100BFCD-091B-4A19-88AB-F5FDBD35196E-696-0000007CC7A6BFDB.jpg)
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/D120AFEA-CF98-4230-802D-B91DCF312F06-696-0000007CCB73C424.jpg)
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/DC8A725C-9761-42FD-BFF4-77F09178FDA9-696-0000007CCF53558C.jpg)
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http://youtu.be/k8n_RtjYXh8
http://youtu.be/FxMZITcpuWw
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A little suggestion before you bolt the engine to the frame, let it pivot on the swingarm bolt until you get the pipe on.
That way you can move the engine around as you're installing the pipe, and once the pipe is mounted up you can install the engine bolts.
It was the only way I could install the 250 Q pipe in my frame (no clearance at all) and it simplifies things on hybrids and zillas if you have any clearance issues.
You can install the pipe while the engine is bolted down (obviously), but being able to move the pipe helps installation, and it's not like you're doing any more work than you normally would.
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dealing with fitment issues with the PRM belly skid plate. When I bought this zilla (the first time in 2001) it was tweaked and **** in the front end. Straigtened and re-welded but its not perfect. the front of the skidplate is about an inch off to the left from where it should be on the frame. having my buddy take a look at it today to see if we can tweak it or cut, bend, and re-weld it to fit right. the joy of putting together a quad from 1989 lol... Makes me wonder how many owners it had before I got a hold of it the first time in 2001. I feel like richard geere in pretty woman just minus the being richard geere part lol...
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no need to run the head stay, it might give you a head gasket problem, motor flexes alot
and it pulls on the head, thats when you will get a leak. most guys do not run the head stay.
but bike looks good.
Hmm never heard that before, interesting. Wonder why Suzuki designed it to even have one then? I think I always ran it with it when I used to own it and dont recall having any issues.
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no need to run the head stay, it might give you a head gasket problem, motor flexes alot
and it pulls on the head, thats when you will get a leak. most guys do not run the head stay.
but bike looks good.
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Perfect time for leak-down check.
Yeah I dont have a leak down tester, and I have confidence in my builder so I highly doubt there will be any issues that would rear their head from taking the time to do one.
Risky move - its your bike.
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Perfect time for leak-down check.
Yeah I dont have a leak down tester, and I have confidence in my builder so I highly doubt there will be any issues that would rear their head from taking the time to do one.
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hahahaha.
i inherited a full stickley cherry bedroom set with two nightstands, a tripple dresser, mirror, tallboy, and queen bed frame so i dont think that will be happening any time soon
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Looks good. Just one thing.... please dont paint your tool box and use it for a night stand!!! xT@
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Looking good!! Coming along.....
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Perfect time for leak-down check.
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motor is hanging! i think its bed time for me... will pick up in the morning
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/3784FA79-250F-4571-9711-1F7C6532CACB-282-00000036E461854E.jpg)
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/D066B42B-241A-48FB-9E88-4CBD0F940EA6-282-00000036EC08A4A8.jpg)
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/07C9B025-2CAF-4A3F-83B1-A3FE21750EFD-282-00000036F0DB91C7.jpg)
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fixed the reed cage, got the swingarm bolt through and a few incidentals. im also organizing and labeling my tool box (just 15 drawers of craftsman, and sorting my spare bolts/ parts collection so its kind of like a round robin. Yeah its the ADD order of operations lol...
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/687D675F-353C-48B7-8E91-30299CB31B96-215-0000001B27B58C91.jpg)
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/9D4968A1-0E64-4C9F-A342-59F32428E903-215-0000001B23CA8A0A.jpg)
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/DCFF4C2A-340B-4DCC-9E07-5BBF4879DBCE-215-0000001B2061E23F.jpg)
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/B06B703B-29DC-409F-9F1B-0CBA0ECC4425-215-0000001B15E03EAB.jpg)
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I will keep this thread updated as I work through the re-assembly. I just spent some time with the wire wheel on the bench grinder as all the engine mount bolts and the swingarm bolt were quite corroded and devoid of the grease that should have been on them. They are all cleaned up and I am just about to dig in on getting the motor back in the bike. I plan to try and get the motor back in and snugged up, the carb mounted, and connect the final wiring from the stator to the rest of the wiring system tonight. We will see if I get further than that but realistically the chain, the exhaust, gas tank, plastics, and the rest will have to wait until tomorrow morning. My main goal is to have it totally back together while there is still sunlight so I can start it up and take it for a test ride. There is a few inches of snow left on the ground but I took those Duro flat track tires off of the back and put the Razrs on so I should have enough grip to tear through the snow tomorrow. We actually may get some more snow tonight but if the snow is too deep I will just take the snowmobile out and do a few laps around some of the fields to pack down a track to ride the quad on.
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Snowmobile/add91d41.jpg)
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The reed cage is installed on the wrong side of the aluminum spacer... Or am I wrong? [|]
Having some heat issues (noticed the aluminum wrap on your airbox & air boot) with your pipe?
I haven't run it long enough to know if there will be a heat issue but the Trinity pipe runs quite close to the airbox so I put it on there pre-emptively so I dont melt anything.
Reed cage spacer is on wrong. It goes between the reed cage and cylinder to move the reeds out from the intake port.
Thanks for the heads up I will switch it. I hadn't even really looked at it closely, that was how it was installed when I bought it. Not really surprised though as it seems the previous owner was not very mechanically inclined. Thankfully thats not a big deal since I took the whole thing apart anyhow. At least he had good taste in parts and mods. I am extremely lucky that the detent spring was dislodged when I got it or, I never would have gotten inside the motor and I would have ended up having catastrophic failure rather than simply needing to have the bottom end rebuilt.
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Reed cage spacer is on wrong. It goes between the reed cage and cylinder to move the reeds out from the intake port.
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The reed cage is installed on the wrong side of the aluminum spacer... Or am I wrong? [|]
Having some heat issues (noticed the aluminum wrap on your airbox & air boot) with your pipe?
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Crank was rebuilt and motor was put together the other day using the same specs as it was when he took it apart, but after he tightened the bolts on the cases, he wasnt happy with it. Felt it was too tight and not spinning freely so he split the cases again and rebuilt the crank a second time. He finished up this afternoon so the motor is back in the garage at my house and now I begin putting the whole thing together! Hopefully tomorrow we fire it up and I finally get to lay into her and see what she's got!
Motor before the jug went back on
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/895265F3-6510-4CD4-B159-1E722F21A07C-250-000000110A53BF4D.jpg)
Where it sits now, but hopefully not for long!
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/7CC4B298-946D-462C-931A-AD7AF01EFD72-250-0000001112C5A9C7.jpg)
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thanks for the explanation. all the wiring i used is 14 gauge.
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Jerry beat me to it by a few minutes LOL
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(2) 35W bulbs = 70W total draw
If you're running 12V, divide 70W by 12V and you get 5.8A, give it a little extra leeway and call it 7A.
The thing about fuses is that they're not designed to protect the equipment they're wired to, they're designed to protect the wiring itself.
So size your fuses to the wire gauge you're using and you'll avoid damaging the wires if they rub against a ground and short out while maintaining maximum current available to utilize.
Most electrical components that are sensitive to amperage have built in fuses anyway.
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Power = voltage * Amperage
Solving for amperage yields:
Amperage = Power / Voltage
Power consumed = 2*35 watts = 70 watts
Voltage = 12 to 15 volts
Amperage = 70 / 12 = 6 amps
Amperage = 70 / 15 = 4.7 Amps
Amperage draw will be between 4.7 to 6 amps for two 35 watt lamps
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Holy crap that's a lot of wiring for an LT...
Looks great bro!
Thanks! Wiring is one of my "specialties" if I were to try and say that I have one lol.
It all started because after mounting the new headlights on the bars, there was no room for the giant stock key assembly. I already had a 4 wire key from my 2001 Yamaha Wolverine 350; because I lost the key for it, looked everywhere and finally broke down and purchased a new key and tumbler/assembly a few months later. Of course after months of looking, and then finally installing the new key system in the Yamaha, I found the key that went with the old assembly like 12 hours after I had swapped in the new unit. At that point, I just decided to leave the new key on the Wolverine and save the old one for if the new one died, or I needed a key setup for another project such as this.
When the previous owner had the whole frame powder coated, he utilized a different subframe that had no mount for the stock tail light. I saw the wiring harness was hacked together, and I needed to make a custom mount for a tail light anyhow, so I said screw it, lets do an R1 LED tail. I already had a 12v regulator/rectifier hanging around that I used to use on my CR500 Supermoto (but with this most recent rebuild on that I opted to go back to AC and to get rid of turn signals and an LED tail. The vibration on the CR500 which is not counterbalanced like the LT500 puts the LT to shame when it comes to the severity of the vibration.)
At that point I thought, if I am going to DC current and im rebuilding the wiring harness from scratch anyhow, now is as good a time as any to add a battery into the system...
So basically it started out small and one thing led to another. Now that its all done I am happy I made the extra effort. I plan on keeping the zilla for a LONG time and it looks like the motor will be done by the end of the week.
I used all waterproof solder/heat shrink wire connectors, then covered with heat shrink tape, and covered that with electrical tape, so it is all wrapped up snug as a bug in a rug. If I ever do have to to take apart or change things, they all have connectors on them rather than permanently attached to each other so after taking off the electrical tape/heat shrink tape, I can unplug and dismantle/reattach the entire wiring system without a whole lot of trouble.
I was always taught if your going to do something, you might as well do it right the first time. The battery seems to hold quite a bit of juice too. I have had the headlights on over a few times for a total of 10 or 15 minutes doing testing and showing friends/family my handywork and the battery is still powering the headlights at the same brightness as when I first installed it.
I will get more pictures/videos when I get the motor back in it and running.
Also, I ran the wiring for the brake light from the R1 tail, I just need to find one of those banjo bolt brake sensors with the right pitch for the front brake master cylinder. Once I get it, I just have to attach the positive and negative wires to it (that are already there) and I will have a brake light off the front brake! I was going to do the rear brake, but since I am more likely to always hit the front brake than the rear, and I tucked all the wiring inside the frame that goes back that direction anyhow, the front brake is a better choice for said switch.
Whats really cool is I was able to re-use a lot of the stock wiring so based off the wiring diagram, most of the wire colors still match up to what they run to. The only wires that are not matching color are the additional parts (from the regulator rectifier to the battery, from the battery back to the key, and from the key back into the Yellow/Red wire that sends power up into the handlebar controls for the lights.
Does anybody know what amperage draw I should expect from two 35watt halogen bulbs? I put an in-line fuse on the positive just as it leaves the battery and goes out to power the machine accessories. Started with a 15 amp fuse....
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Holy crap that's a lot of wiring for an LT...
Looks great bro!
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pics
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/BD6DFD7B-9E40-4E8A-BCD2-0CF708543B79-126-0000000B5047C1C7.jpg)
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/22994FC1-0A26-4EFE-8A83-2A24C7CBEA2F-143-00000002C8DA64DD-1.jpg)
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/7BF962B5-8960-4312-9290-5EF36FD42FF0-143-00000002BE39EB51.jpg)
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/FD113948-F789-439D-808D-92DFCE1A4B53-143-00000002B31E7120.jpg)
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/D8CF1C04-5E09-4551-BF8B-398C8EB8FA27-143-00000002AA59DB4C.jpg)
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/872F9DE3-FD14-4D7D-8090-BF864A2B96D8-143-000000029E22A504.jpg)
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/585A438F-880C-4A9D-B208-368D1C800F6B-143-000000029758A8D2.jpg)
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/0275DABF-1BE0-4D1E-A623-0A60D676F7D4-145-0000000C0CD7EB2F.jpg)
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/0498110B-B8D2-426C-94D1-FA9B7852C840-145-0000000C13A4E164.jpg)
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wiring is done! motor will be done tomorrow hopefully. new crank bearings, connecting rod amd bearings, output seal, clutch gasket, and base gasket
added battery, voltage regulator/rectifier, R1 LED tail/brake, dual 35w halogen headlights, and blue led bar above radiator.
ran all wires through frame into airbox for clean look, loomed all the wires, steel braided front brake lines,
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got the tail light mounted
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/4E1B3A28-EABB-47E7-B4D2-42AB3B4485E0-158-00000002DC78882F.jpg)
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/3A42B4DE-0E1F-40DA-A5D6-9E3340BAA79F-158-00000002E2CE53DF.jpg)
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/C380D161-1B0F-4877-9E89-A650B6DC5B22-158-00000002EB295F0D.jpg)
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regulator/rectifier mounted!
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/4A480FC1-BB66-4006-B6B6-BA6873D5BA1D-479-000000AD8EE720E7.jpg)
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/8AFC903A-8888-4EF8-8724-A59B9F58FA62-479-000000AD740354DF.jpg)
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/FAC2F2B5-E68B-4F15-B128-8F17CE6B329D-479-000000AD6962C8E2.jpg)
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added steel braided brake lines up front and silicone vent hoses for the coolant overflow tank...
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/EE2BDF1E-C33E-4FCE-81C2-22A238941B22-411-000000D06411EC06.jpg)
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/7F881E8E-3211-435A-8F12-84103C2B051F-411-000000D05AEECC91.jpg)
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/33473079-DEAA-4C35-B527-87C0293382E5-359-000000A069A9E5D6.jpg)
going to be installing an R1 LED tail light
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/03E4D977-9A7B-4B27-B7F6-61604F95364D-359-000000A1ECCC0FA3.jpg)
just pocked up crank bearings so motor should be done by friday.
going to be mounting the 12v regulator/rectifier on the back sode of the ignition coil with nylon spacers and extended bolts
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/D85BEA4E-5A7E-4DA8-A878-4A0FD186AB25-359-000000A70153E678.jpg)
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the kicker will not work on your zilla, it will fit. but when you swing it out to kick your foot will
hit the fender, look at the arch on it. it puts the kicker way to far out there.
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I'd stay away from that thing...just imagine that thin aluminum breaking off when the 500 kicks back and cuts your leg clean off.
Or whatever, I dunno. I've heard bad things about them LOL
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It's called Fleabay for a reason!! Buyer beware!! <1>
Agreed. Never heard of an aftermarker kicker for either LT?
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It's called Fleabay for a reason!! Buyer beware!! <1>
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That kick starter is not for the 500s.
lot of mislabeled stuff eh...
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That kick starter is not for the 500s.
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I picked up Silicone Radiator hoses from Roose Motorsports off ebay, which i then found out is based out of the next town over from me. I met the guys there in person yesterday when I picked up my order (rather than paying for shipping). Really great guys. Also included some samples of their different colors so I can see for future applications. If anybody is looking for hoses let me know, they have a really high quality product. I plan to add them to my Subaru, CR500, and RM250 in the not too distant future.
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/5304C80D-0E23-4FB6-9BED-31623868E615-162-0000000F085F1212.jpg)
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/2BFAEB75-8326-4FEA-B262-D224FA04DB95-162-0000000F0E8406A3.jpg)
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/754984B4-0FCC-4F81-AF9E-0188DDB71EE4-162-0000000F195DD44B.jpg)
While I am waiting for my motor to be done, I am also doing a few other odds and ends on the bike. I am planning to wire in a 12v DC regulator/rectifier so I can use LEDs and will then be mounting an 04-06 R1 tail light with a smoked lense. Welding up a custom bracket that I will mount off the bolts for the seat latch mechanism. Will get longer bolts of the same thread and then can just add nuts to the bottom side to mount the bracket. I measured it out and it should fit right there behind the airbox quite nicely. Also wiring in a Hydraulic brake sensor switch to engage the brake light off the rear brake pedal action.
Already polished up the carb, shift lever, and case saver. Thinking of also doing the cover/lid on the throttle assembly and front brake reservoir.
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/E0B4D364-0E66-4320-8FD3-CF294A396974-162-0000000F22399042.jpg)
So I saw that there is an aluminum kick starter for our bikes on ebay for sale. Anybody have any experience with it? Would look nice to have and polish up.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/500-LT500-LT500R-QUADRACER-QUADZILLA-KICK-START-LEVER-/130601879141?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e687a8665&vxp=mtr
I also ordered a-arm and belly skid plates from PRM the other day. With the fresh powder coating on the frame and a-arms i figure it is better to protect them before they get marred up. I got the thinner aluminum stock from the two choices. I am not planning on dragging it over rocks like I do with my 4x4 quad so I didnt see the need to spend the extra money and bolt on the extra weight.
And I got half way through doing my steel braided brake line kit up front (the previous owner bought but never installed.
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/EE2BDF1E-C33E-4FCE-81C2-22A238941B22-411-000000D06411EC06.jpg)
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/7F881E8E-3211-435A-8F12-84103C2B051F-411-000000D05AEECC91.jpg)
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/FCF5894D-54BF-4FB2-8141-B7FF6F367253-411-000000D05482C6CA.jpg)
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yeah 250 foot gaurds, not for a zilla
the seller is refunding me.
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yeah 250 foot gaurds, not for a zilla
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we'll see if they fit, if not ill return them
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Yeah, those are off a 91-92 LT250r..... Zillas never had heel guards....
Bomb Drop -
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Yeah, those are off a 91-92 LT250r..... Zillas never had heel guards....
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I think those are for the 250
what makes you think that?
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I think those are for the 250
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your piston my be slapping against the walls of the cylinder if bore is out
Its not, took measurements on it all today.
Crank bearings are toast though. Doing new crank bearings, output shaft seal, base gasket, clutch gasket, connecting rod & pin/bearings. Piston and bore are not out of round and are useable as per my mechanic. It was a brand new piston and rings when the motor was rebuilt and it only had about half an hour on it before it was put in storage. It was only run for 15 minutes or so by me. Pretty much all he does is build race motors and he has been doing it for about 30 years, so I trust his judgement. He built my pit bike motor and I have run it HARD for close to 3 years now. Still starts first or second kick even when it has sat for months.
Next year I am going to do a new top end. I will take some pictures of the cylinder now that we have cleaned it up.
I plan to continue being an active member on here so as I rack up on the hours on it, we will see if his judgement about being able to use the piston & bore was correct or not lol...
If I know my bike is going to sit for awhile. I will take some fogging oil and open the slide on the carb and spray through the throat of the carb to the reed cage and take the plug out and spray in the cyl with it at tdc and bdc than kick it over a few times to get everything coated. Works very very well for alky applications. Do not see why it would not for gas.
Agreed. i always properly "summerize" my snowmobile and "winterize" all my warm weather vehicles.
While the guy I bought it from had pretty good taste in updgrades and parts, he was not very mechanically inclined. He paid 900 bucks for what we now know was a crap motor build, and then didnt correctly prep it for long term storage and didnt ride it for over a year...
But I paid $3000 for it so after the motor is done right, it will still have been a hell of a good buy in my opinion.
So I just picked up a pair of these. Anybody else have a set of these metal zilla heel guards? I have only seen them online once or twice in all the years I have searched for zilla parts...
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/heelguards.png)
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If I know my bike is going to sit for awhile. I will take some fogging oil and open the slide on the carb and spray through the throat of the carb to the reed cage and take the plug out and spray in the cyl with it at tdc and bdc than kick it over a few times to get everything coated. Works very very well for alky applications. Do not see why it would not for gas.
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In the snowmobile world been some talk of engine internals rusting after sitting long periods when synthetic 2 stroke oil has been used.Not sure of the reason but just what some builders have reported.
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your piston my be slapping against the walls of the cylinder if bore is out
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if you see the cross hatches on the sides and none in the front and rear of cylinder then the bore is out.
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Yea, at the very least a hone and new piston. lots of wear on that thing. Also, go with OEM rod. Actually, i have a question for one of the builders; Being that the Zilla has a bad rod angle, would it help to install a CR500 rod? I've talk to some Zilla owners about this and they were blown away that installing the CR500 rod wasn't a must do in the HQ community. Thoughts?
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Crank is bad, one bearing is pitted other is still good. Also doing new connecting rod and bearing. cash is tight and mechanic said top end is still useable. Going to run this piston and do a fresh top end and clutch in the spring.
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you should get that bore checked, it might be out of round, atleast get it honed.
rust is not good, that stuff will wear out a set of rings real fast,
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yeah me too. had race gas but motpr sat for a year without fogging.bearong are pit free though so just cleaning off the rust and running it
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Think that rust was caused by ethanol fuel or just moisture from wherever it was kept?
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tore into the motor tonight. The detent spring wasnt even attached, just found it sitting in the bottom of the motor. Also was greeted with rust on the crank and the cylinder wall. Thankfully none of the bearings seemed to be pitted so have to sand down the rust, re-attach the spring, and put the motor back together. Hopefully I will have the motor back in one piece and ready for re-installation by tomorrow and re-assemble the quad Saturday morning. Then I can get a ride in sometime this weekend! Also a leaky seal on the output shaft...
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/7E5F971D-5D9A-4617-992A-17843190616A-136-00000008CCC93716.jpg)
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/18E43C22-54C7-4042-85F1-72215B0FA707-136-00000008D2EB2038.jpg)
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/E3578A95-0E3E-42CA-A439-D471DAB073B7-136-00000008D93B3BDA.jpg)
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/54284D6E-CF0F-4073-9EA4-7BD9F944E3FB-136-00000008DF08E091.jpg)
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/8FED7FCA-CB06-4A9C-B6A7-79597D060DBF-136-00000008E9C91FE2.jpg)
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/D3928360-6D83-4DE4-AC83-C9F21441E9D7-136-00000008F9A11E39.jpg)
See the spring just hanging out in the below picture? That little guy was what was causing my shifting problem...
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/B071F933-B300-4668-9EB0-6B2626045050-136-00000009002408B2.jpg)
She is hanging there ready and waiting for the open heart surgery to be completed
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/983DF4CE-4ABD-489A-B0CA-E591E15847BA-136-0000000918830D1D.jpg)
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Bluing for the first 15 inches or so is normal when the engine is tuned to make power and is ridden hard. The color is an indication that the wall of the pipe has reached a certain temperature. There is a direct correlation between color and temperature. It has been many years since I looked at the tables of color vs temperature but I think that yellowing occurs in the 500 to 600 deg. F range, bluing occurs when the plating reaches 700 to 800 deg, and purple occurs when the surface has been over 900 deg. F.
The exhaust temperature on most well developed two strokes will be in the 1125 to 1250 deg. F range at wide open throttle. The temperature of the wall of the pipe depends upon the exhaust temperature inside the pipe, the wall thickness, the thickness of the plating, the velocity of the air moving over the surface of the pipe and how long the engine RPM and throttle position have been maintained.
The type K thermocouples with the 3/16" diameter probes are the most common probes sold. The 3/16” probe is durable but responds too slowly to follow the true exhaust temperature for drag racing and most types of riding. It has been my experience that a 3/16” probe on an rapidly accelerating engine (around 1.5 sec. per gear of less) will often indicate a temperature of 1050 deg. F when a small fast response time thermocouple will indicate 1200 deg. F. This is one the main reason why many guys are burning pistons when their EGT gages are reading under 1050 F.
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my trinity looked like that right where it came out of the motor for about 12" and i never smoked my motor not sure if it means lean but I never had a melt down on mine
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i could be wrong but i thought bluing means its running lean or getting hot?
ive heard that too. was running a 370 main jet with airbox lid on in 50 degree weather
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i could be wrong but i thought bluing means its running lean or getting hot?
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Make sure that pipe isn't touching the frame, you'll eat a hole straight through it.
Either put a dimple in it for clearance, or try to tweak it some for clearance.
The FMF that was on my 250 was the same way, and I had to patch weld it back together.
It slobbered sooty oil all over everything LOL
The zilla is not capable of lighting standard LED driving lights by itself, as there is no 12VDC supply.
You have a few options if you want LED's, however.
1. Buy an LED lightbar that was designed to run off AC currents (moderately expensive)
2. Run the LED's off a removable, rechargeable battery (night riding is limited to battery size and quantity, the bigger the capacity, the pricier they are)
3. Install a charging system (labor intensive, moderately expensive)
For the first option, the only one I know of is from baja designs www.bajadesigns.com, they build an LED lightbar specifically for ATV's running AC current (that's us!)
With the second two, you have the option of running HID's instead of LED's as well.
Also keep in mind that the stock charging system is only good for about 60-70 usable watts, unless you buy higher watt coils from Ricky Stator.
OK thanks, the previous owner installed an aftermarket stator. I thought we were running AC. When I did my CR500 street supermoto I installed a regulator/rectifier to run LED turn signals, but with all the vibration I went back to just running the AC regulator and got rid of the turn signals. The signal relays kept vibrating to death lol. Actually I may still have that regulator/rectifier lying around.
false netural?
i think you got either a bad shift fork or wore out dog bones. there are no springs that hold it in gear.
I want to say he said "detent" spring but I am not sure. I will have more information once my builder splits the cases. When we pulled the clutch cover, the shift drum was moving somewhat freely back and forth, apparently not as it is supposed to. I am pretty good working on most everything with my bikes but I have never gotten in the motor on any of them before so my knowledge on that part is slim to none.
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So as I did not purchase the Trinity pipe, the previous owner did, I do not know what type of coating is on it. I only rode it those few laps in one of my fields (from the video I posted) and have noticed some blue-ing in the pipe. Looks pretty cool. I wonder if I will end up getting that through the entire header after I get some good seat time on the bike?
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/434CD11E-5EB5-42C6-A5A8-877A25346624-881-0000010D74592A93.jpg)
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false netural?
i think you got either a bad shift fork or wore out dog bones. there are no springs that hold it in gear.
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Make sure that pipe isn't touching the frame, you'll eat a hole straight through it.
Either put a dimple in it for clearance, or try to tweak it some for clearance.
The FMF that was on my 250 was the same way, and I had to patch weld it back together.
It slobbered sooty oil all over everything LOL
The zilla is not capable of lighting standard LED driving lights by itself, as there is no 12VDC supply.
You have a few options if you want LED's, however.
1. Buy an LED lightbar that was designed to run off AC currents (moderately expensive)
2. Run the LED's off a removable, rechargeable battery (night riding is limited to battery size and quantity, the bigger the capacity, the pricier they are)
3. Install a charging system (labor intensive, moderately expensive)
For the first option, the only one I know of is from baja designs www.bajadesigns.com, they build an LED lightbar specifically for ATV's running AC current (that's us!)
With the second two, you have the option of running HID's instead of LED's as well.
Also keep in mind that the stock charging system is only good for about 60-70 usable watts, unless you buy higher watt coils from Ricky Stator.
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Yeah they are what they are.......... I like seeing them in Glamis. I blow by them really quick.
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http://www.suzukiquadracerhq.com/dyno-postings/trinity-q1-0-hpr9-on-stock-cylinder/?topicseen
Here is a dyno posted by jerry hall.
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well I have gotten quite the refresher course on the quadzilla the last few days... here we go again
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/6E291A62-C04A-4817-A73D-BBCD097A69F7-468-000000D87D4513FC.jpg)
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/143727A2-EA82-471D-9E82-3F04DF0F1CE9-468-000000D8938CEC53.jpg)
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Looking great... Like the 'Wally' headlights too
Yeah, they look good I am interested to see how bright they are. While the stock headlight is bulkey, I had a big bulb in it when I previously owned it and it was extremely bright. The owner said he also upgraded the stator so we will see what kind of output we get.
Does anybody know if the electrical system on these bikes is capable of powering LEDs? I dont know if it has only a rectifier or a regulator/rectifier...
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Looking great... Like the 'Wally' headlights too
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Atleast you dont tear the grass up with those flat track tires. In another video you posted it sound abit rich off the idle but not too bad in this video. How was the throttle response?
The previous videos were from the other guy before I got it. The jetting was a mess
He had a 300 main jet but thought he had a 380 in it, the pilot was like a 45 and the mixture screw was turned all the way out to compensate. This video is running a 350 main, with airbox lid on. I plan to go up to a 370 main. The throttle response was great once it warmed up. The lack of feel and tension in the shift lever was disappointing.
Hah yes the flat track tires are interesting.... Not exactly sure why the dude bought flat track tires for a quad he didnt flat track. It also came with the set of rims/tires I had on it when I sold it, Razr's in the rear and no-names from northern tool up front. He apparently caught a sidewall in one of the fronts with a RR tie before he re-did everything and plugged it. For tires I spent $29/piece on in 2002, I am going to junk them, and get new ones, or if I can find the same tire, just replace the one. The tires were only 2 ply but the tread functioned pretty well. I think the Razr's with their "holeshot" X design will be much better suited for the rough woods trails I will be riding with it.
I think I may try entering some flat track races if I can find some around here in the North East next year. Cant think of a quad I would rather have if I was going to do it. I have to get this thing out on some terrain other than wet grass to test the tires out and see how I feel about riding in the woods with them.
By the way, thats my mechanic, Chug, riding in that last video I posted not me.
After my "defeat" I pulled her in the garage last night, wired and installed the headlight assembly he gave me with my boxes of parts from him. Also swapped out the zilla key assembly for a spare unit for a yamaha wolverine 350 I had lying around (for my 2001 wolverine) and wired it up. It fit nicely in my right front plastic faring and gave me the room I needed to install these headlights with the bracket he had. I chose to mount below the bar clamps and I shimmed the back side with washers to match the height of the metal headlight bracket.
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/E7F92AA1-A334-4BCA-A00A-51FDCFD2A116-404-000000B97CBD338F.jpg)
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/F47E70E2-7552-46B2-BCF6-73BB778C6800-404-000000B937E9CF47.jpg)
Here are the exhaust mounting locations for the Trinity header
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/9BC58011-7BB3-4869-BE12-599494BD5B87-404-000000B89A6E41CA.jpg)
A shot from the inside of the fender of the cut I made. I hit it quickly with the blow torch to clean up the edge of the cut. I used a metal jig-saw blade to make the cuts in the plastic. I had tried using Dremels to cut plastics years ago and with the high revolutions it usually just ends up melting the plastic rather than cutting it. I greatly prefer the hand held jig-saw for this type of job
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/2159024D-925A-457C-BEBD-07418D44C357-404-000000B8AC696076.jpg)
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/63FFDA23-9813-4E1F-84DF-A06AB87E85A0-404-000000B959301C1E.jpg)
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/882B1B70-252F-4818-AAFA-7944D9973429-404-000000B8F60F0B19.jpg)
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Atleast you dont tear the grass up with those flat track tires. In another video you posted it sound abit rich off the idle but not too bad in this video. How was the throttle response?
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so was hitting false neutral. mechanic rode it, puling the cluch cover he said could be a spring was over tightened and stretched. hopefully thats it and i dobt have to pull the cases... otherwise it ran well.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nPpF45txins
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Low boy design looks killer
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Looking good. I love the blue and yellow.
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here you can see the two mounts
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/7503C910-1101-4E34-AE93-F033565CD261-363-000000E32817BA54.jpg)
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it has 2 hangers on it, both installed
heres plasic cut. used metal fine cut blade on jig saw
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/74BDD949-2506-4FA3-A99C-6D5BD55133D3-363-000000DE286F0518.jpg)
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/EAFB132D-2B49-4349-9C61-570ED83CEAD1-363-000000DE221A1077.jpg)
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/DF434B6D-86D6-49A0-B5C2-924E7F3D13E4-363-000000DE1CD2B521.jpg)
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If you run a trinity without exhaust hangers it will eventually rip the mount off the pipe.
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pipe looks good on your bike, what if you take a small strip of steel and drill 2 holes in it one at each end, bolt top end in the exhaust mount on bike
and then you might be able to lower tail pipe and then if you need to you can mount pipe on the inside of that steel. this might help you pipe from rubbing.
and you do have rubber mounts all around on that pipe. i wouldnt run it with out them.
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It looks hot!!! O0
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And here is a picture of the new pipe installed. It just touches the frame at the rear of the expansion chamber. Going to let it rub and then see if it requires adjustment and I need to put a dimple in it with a ball peen hammer.
Here it is with the exhaust mocked up. More pictures to come later tonight or tomorrow. The pipe is on, I fixed the suspension link so the ride height isnt so jacked, and now I have to cut the notch in the front fender for the exhaust and then re-assemble plastics and incidentals.
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/3B941065-8FBC-44BE-B5CE-1B3D8A2B7838-153-000000077711267F.jpg)
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(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/2C241022-9981-4191-A32E-ED2B153D8A9B-946-00000105166265C0.jpg)
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got it!
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/38357BF9-2A3E-4664-96FE-5E2F34F62029-733-000000E83961EC33.jpg)
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Where in CT are you located?
Woodbury/Bethlehem area. Bottom of Litchfield County
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Has anyone ran the aaen mx pipe ? That's my problem I'm stuck between trinity and aaen I want a good low to mid power. there pretty close in price .but can't decide
Not sure on the Aaen Zilla pipe but I run an Aaen on my 250,works very well for MX.
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Where in CT are you located?
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I plan to run the Trinity pipe when I get mine this weekend. If you are near CT your welcome to come test it out
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Has anyone ran the aaen mx pipe ? That's my problem I'm stuck between trinity and aaen I want a good low to mid power. there pretty close in price .but can't decide
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Remove plastic try pipe, pick the one you like
better put than i did +k2
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Thanks for the advice. Its refreshing to find a forum where it isn't filled with a bunch of hacks that know less than I do lol (because I am no master mechanic but I pay attention to detail and take my time).
I plan to remove the plastics while I do my testing/tweaking and then I will figure out what to cut or not to cut once I have everything dialed in. When I used to have the zilla I ran cut plastics in the front and no plastics in the rear. I liked the "fuselage" look.
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/7E754A8A-8E11-44FF-B403-BBC2FDDDECE4-2132-000002777FAE67F6.jpg)
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/DE6A1499-76BC-4411-BF3D-260718E7A5E7-2132-000002777B49E122.jpg)
I honestly don't have the most experience jetting, so my buddy's father is going to come help me jet it right. He was the head of the service department at a RER, a powersports dealership here in CT for 20+ years and now focuses on motor builds under his own business "Chugs Moto Performance." Always nice to have a master mechanic in your back pocket. He works out of a shop built in his home these days so if I am working on something I am not sure about, he lets me throw it on the lift in the second bay of his shop and when I get stuck or have a question he helps me along. I guess no different than in most dealerships where one or two guys know what they are doing and they help the junior mechanics... I have a pretty good size tool collection and it continues to grow, but he has everything.
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Remove plastic try pipe, pick the one you like
this !!!!!!!!!!!. just play with your mains a little. they will be within 1-2 sizes +/-
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Remove plastic try pipe, pick the one you like
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I am excited to try it out. seems like all the new design pipes are pretty close to that left leg. was reading about the AAEM pipe and looking at pictures this morning looks to follow the same path (although clearly at a different bend)
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I had a fmf on my zilla traded for trinity like 414 said have to trim plastic lil. Trinity is a low to mid pipe but lacks top end and when you hit the binders hard with shorts on you will burn the shiz out of your leg! I personally liked the trinity over the fmf.
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awesome! Trinity it is.
plastics do look nice but im still going to have to slice thwm down. the previous owner didnt
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The trinity is actually a torquee and strong mid range pipe, rode with a guy running one thanksgiving trip in Glamis, ran well.
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I think he doesn't want to whack the front fender for the Trinity pipe if it's not his thing. I don't blame ya, the plastics look great!
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why not try both and feel for yourself?
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Thanks! yeah it wasnt in bad shape when i sold it to him either. Yes i am well aware the rear cushion needs adjustment lol. Really nice guy but from what I can tell not the most mechanically inclined. not bad taste in parts. So what is the power curve on the trinity supposed to be? I ride lretty hard/fast... I ride my RM250 in the same trails and i tend to go balls to the wall.
Is it a drag top end only pipe or a mid range pipe. Mid range is really what I need the most of.
here is a video of me riding my zilla back before I sold it...
http://youtu.be/S9YQiH2Jk0I
that was with the DG pipe on it.
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Fix the rear cushion arm #1!!
For that type of terrain you want all the low to mid tractor power as possible. That FMF might be the way to go, sell the Trinity pipe and use the $$ other odd's and ends.
Nice Zilla!! Looks well kept.
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So I am about to buy back my old quadzilla. When I sold it in 04 to this guy it had a DG pipe on it (because thats what it had on it when I bought it. He purchased a trinity pipe for it but "didnt like the way it looked and didnt want to cut the plastic" so he bought an FMF. He had the motor rebuilt and didnt know how to jet it right so I am going to have to jet it either way. I am picking it up Saturday with the FMF on it, and a brand new in the box Trinity pipe.
Yes I know there is a lot of leg humping on the new generation of pipes, but I dont have the money to spend on a new pipe right now, so my choice is to run the FMF or to run the Trinity pipe. I will be riding it in rough woods and farm fields (think GNCC type terrain). Whats the power curve on a Trinity pipe like? I cant really find any information on it. Is it comparable to the Paul Turner pipe?
here is a picture of it from the guy who im buying it from...
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/01.jpeg)
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/2012-12-059513-59-2995624.jpg)
(http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o160/fiidgett/Quadzilla/ResizedImage951354734134722.jpg)