Suzuki Quadracer HQ
Suzuki Conversions (Hybrids) => Hybrids / Conversion - Body / Chassis / Suspension => Topic started by: Rainman56 on November 28, 2012, 01:49:05 pm
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I seen track side in mn makes homemade pipes for anything but figured someone had to have one already done so I don't gotta drive up there to have it made
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here is my project
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Skully should post up some pics, he does the hybrid mods
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AAEN, Q (possibly Matt Shearer, I dunno the story between them), most any oof pipe can be made to fit, the CT pipe for the zilla can bolt to a hybrid, not sure if HPR or MHR offers any hybrid stuff but they're pipe builders so you never know.
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who all makes a pipe for this conversion?
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My hybrid's been in the air plenty of times, no issues.
It's seen some pretty rough terrain too.
I guess my take on it is that if you start out with a good frame and gusset/reinforce critical areas, you'll have a good frame for a long time to come.
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lonestar swinger and a-arms
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my 92 hybrid has held up great on MX for the couple years I was really romping around on it. sadly these days i have hardly anytime to ride anymore.
but it has ohlin shocks all the way around. maybe our tracks are bigger down here or because Im big, but I wouldnt shy away from racing it on MX
You using the stock swinger?
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my 92 hybrid has held up great on MX for the couple years I was really romping around on it. sadly these days i have hardly anytime to ride anymore.
but it has ohlin shocks all the way around. maybe our tracks are bigger down here or because Im big, but I wouldnt shy away from racing it on MX
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As far as holding up in mx, better bring a welder with you. The newest of these frames are 20 years old now, as a 250 there not terrible, but expect to chase cracks. The best thing you can do to alleviate this BEFORE YOU mess with an engine swap, is invest in QUALITY shocks and suspension components OEM doesnt cut it. You will be faster with good suspension than you can ever be with a Crap suspension and a big fast engine.
Anyone I have ever talked to has said the same thing about Hybrids and MX, fun in practice but too much to hold onto to race, unless you run big wide open gp style stuff.
Kinda suspected that.Makes sense...Have to say my 250 has held up very well minus the rear swingarm cracking numerous times and the axle snapping.Have a Durablue in it now.
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Using the 85 hub and running the sprocket outboard works to fix chain alignment, as does useing a the center from a an old sprocket between the hub and sprocket. I use the inside race from a bearing between the bearing and hub on mine many differnt ways to do it.
As far as holding up in mx, better bring a welder with you. The newest of these frames are 20 years old now, as a 250 there not terrible, but expect to chase cracks. The best thing you can do to alleviate this BEFORE YOU mess with an engine swap, is invest in QUALITY shocks and suspension components OEM doesnt cut it. You will be faster with good suspension than you can ever be with a Crap suspension and a big fast engine.
Anyone I have ever talked to has said the same thing about Hybrids and MX, fun in practice but too much to hold onto to race, unless you run big wide open gp style stuff.
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Do the hybrid frames hold up using them for MX???Not alot of metal in there on the tube mods,especially the upper tube for spark plug clearance.
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Can someone elaborate more on this? The output sprocket on the 500 motor does not line up with the drive sprocket on the axle?
i believe using a 85-86 sprocket hub fixes this....
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just make sure you do the frame rail on the clutch side, if not you will have to pull motor to take off clutch cover
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87-90 is easiest and requires the least amount of fab (it doesn't matter which year you get, they're all the same with the exception of 24 and 26 spline axles).
85-86 is lightest and requires additional work to strengthen weak areas, some components do not interchange with later year models.
91-92 is heaviest and takes the most work, but winds up being the strongest (provided you strengthen the same areas as all other frames)...you also get the no-link rear shock.
As far as modifying the frame, you need a minimum of these modifications:
Spark plug cutout
RH lowest rear engine attach point needs to be 1" farther out
Wishbone needs to be modified or new downtubes need to be made for the front engine mount
RH frame usually needs some clearance for the kickstarter, my hybrid doesn't but it's also the exception rather than the rule.
That's the absolute minimum, but most people gusset the tubing clusters and use additional tubing to strengthen other areas that need attention.
You'll be putting more stress on the frame because...
Engine is heavier
Engine torques the mild steel frame more
You'll likely be going faster which puts more stress on the frame too
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I'm still looking for a roller! Can't wait to do a hybrid.
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Also, make sure to notch enough to easily remove and install spark plug with bike together. I had to use a br8ecm (same as the other b8 or br8 plugs but shorter) and a plug wire off a lawnmower!
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i just picked up a 88 roller. going to be starting my hybrd project soon.
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Heres a couple pics i found...
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q30/quadster250/Picture001-4.jpg)
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q30/quadster250/Picture002-2.jpg)
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q30/quadster250/Picture003-3.jpg)
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Easiest way Ive seen is to put the zilla motor in with the swinger bolt, then you'll see where the frame rail needs to be notched for the lower mount. with that done it will drop in place, put the thru bolt in and then the SBLT front motor mounts. Then you'll see where the cut out for spark plug access and for the kicker to rotate need to be also the flat bracket w/2 holes on the front down tube needs to be notched for the pipe. I would also recommend some gussets.
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Its actually a wider position not higher. I think John had a typo.
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right side bottom motor mount need to be cut out and rewelded back in in a higher location on the frame rail
Thanks,appreciate the info:)
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right side bottom motor mount need to be cut out and rewelded back in in a higher location on the frame rail
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Anymore input on this subject?Just curious what frame mods need to be made?
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ask lt500kid, we just told him how to fix his.
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There was a awesome thread on the old site that had all pictures where you had to fab/cut/weld. I have my eyes peeled for a LT250 roller!!
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Whats involved in altering the frame?Cut and weld the tubes?Lengthening portions of the frame and fabricating the mounts?
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The 500 motor is a bit bigger/wider so the output shaft sticks out a little more than a 250. Normaly about a 1/4 +-inch spacer behind the rear sprocket . Motion Pro sells a chain alignment tool, but i just used a framing square and a straight edge.
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Can someone elaborate more on this? The output sprocket on the 500 motor does not line up with the drive sprocket on the axle?
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i dont think sprocket needs a shim?
I got three(whatever the thickness of sprockets are) welded together :'(. Depends how bad the frame and swinger are tweaked!! D?
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dont forget the 500 petcock
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i dont think sprocket needs a shim?
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i am doing a hybird also. i was told a 87-90 are the easiest. i am doing a 89
Thanks for the info Heminutt.Maybe for airbox/filter due to different shock location?Like i said just hoping to get some info also so I know what I,m getting myself into:)
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i am doing a hybird also. i was told a 87-90 are the easiest. i am doing a 89
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Thinking of doing a 250/Zilla engine hybrid.Are any years between 87-92 a better choice than others?How much custom fabricating is involved?I,m assuming frame,engine mounts,pipe,shim axle sprocket out?Just trying to get an idea of what I,m in for ahead of time.Any input is appreciated:).