Suzuki Quadracer HQ
LT250R Quadracer => LT250R - General Discussion => Topic started by: Kris on August 07, 2018, 10:15:47 am
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150 feet above sea level and no I haven’t had any other pipes to compare it to I guess the pipes ok
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1988 20 over cool head VForce 3 reeds paul turner high rev full exhaust 38 mm pwk carb uni pod filter
How do you like the hi rev pipe?Have you run any other pipes to compare it to?
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What elevation are you riding at?
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1988 20 over cool head VForce 3 reeds paul turner high rev full exhaust 38 mm pwk carb uni pod filter
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Just curious what year the 250 is??? Glad to here ya got it running great. 152 is quite lean compared to what I'm running but every bike is different with so many variables....Main thing is ya got it ripping the way it should.
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Well today got some more jets and down to 152 and the bike screams finally! So a five dollar jet cost me $600 for coil stator reed cage and 20 different jets
Unfortunately you are accumulating what we call experience. The expensive lessons are keenly remembered. Remember the minute details of the symptoms to the problem you were experiencing. Electrical, reeds and jetting problems can cause miss fires but the symptoms are slightly different. The small details of the symptoms are what guides the more experienced mechanics whether to pursue the intake, fuel, or electrical system.
Using a cheap volt/ ohm meter on the stator and coil would have prevented the purchase of the electrical components. Harbor freight is always giving these cheap digital volt/ohm meters away if you purchase anything.
Somewhere on this site I have given the difference in the symptoms when these three components are responsible for a miss fire as well as how to build a peak voltage tester to use with a digital volt/ohm meter. The cost of the electrical components needed to build this peak voltage circuit is under $5.00. Suzuki, Honda, Yamaha etc. sells a peak voltage tester to their dealers that use to be well over a hundred dollars.
With one of these peak voltage testers, I have been able to diagnose which component has failed on any off road engine that I have ever encountered that has a CDI ignition.
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Well today got some more jets and down to 152 and the bike screams finally! So a five dollar jet cost me $600 for coil stator reed cage and 20 different jets
Labor of love my friend!
Now you can spend more with porting, etc and use some of those jets you bought. :D
+k2
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Well today got some more jets and down to 152 and the bike screams finally! So a five dollar jet cost me $600 for coil stator reed cage and 20 different jets
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yea, it is 2mm larger than the factory lt250 carb though. Your bike will tell ya what it needs. glad it's running better.
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The jets just seem small when the carb came wit 172 from factory. It’s a 38 mm pwk air striker from 15 years ago but it looks really clean
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So today I put in new stator no difference
I put the smallest jet I had 160 was 172 and it ran the best so far vey little breaking up I think I need 158 or 155
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Isn’t the coil grounded by the two bolts that hold it to the frame?
Yes. Make sure the contact spot is bare metal, not rusty, painted or powder coated.
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My new Ricky stator has no mark on it to align with factory mark. What do I do?
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And far as the stator goes I see no ground? Three bolts hold it on.
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Isn’t the coil grounded by the two bolts that hold it to the frame?
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Here's a diagram for the 500 electrical system. Should be identical to the 250.
Gonna need some more grounds.
(https://i.imgur.com/kJOzikC.png)
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I’ve only found 1 ground and that’s the kill switch grounded to frame the other end goes to cdi
I have no lights at all.
New Oem coil only other wires is stator to cdi
I see no grounds on cdi?
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You definitely could have electrical issues. It can cause your bike to sputter. Check for bad grounds. I also suggest putting a volt meter on your pickup (also make sure it and your flywheel are both clean and rust free) Test your coil and cdi. There is a downloadable manual on this site that has all the resistances. What spark plug are you using? Check your plug wire and boot and make sure there isnt corrosion where the boot connects to the wire and at plug. Is the boot stock?
Here is how the circuits in your carb work. Keep below in mind when jetting and only adjust 1 circuit at a time:
idle - 1/4 throttle = pilot
1/4 - 3/4 = Needle -- (Raising the needle = Rich) ( Lowering the needle = Lean)
3/4 - full = Main
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Went from 172 main to 178 ran worse then 168 165 162 now 160 its a lot better but still sputters some any ideas?
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Any possibility of stator cutting in and out to make it sputter?
I put new Oem coil on today and no difference.
Also put needle on 1st clip to 5th clip no difference seems stronger on low end in 5th position
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yea. The idle screw sets the slide height. Slide height should be set to about 3mm high then never touched again.
Once you set it correctly, it will probably start loading up down low too.
It's worth mentioning to make sure your throttle cable is adjusted so that your slide sits perfectly on the bottom of your carb and has no slack. Unscrew the idle screw to allow slide to go all the way down then adjust the cable as needed. then set the slide height.
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Don’t know if this matters but idle screw is all the way tight and air screw is 1 1/2 out. Seems weird that idle is all the way in?
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Buy a few smaller genuine Keihin main jets. Start stepping down the jet sizes until she stops loading up.
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Plug looks wet and dark
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Just wide open idle low and mid works great no breaking up.
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How do you do a plug chopmif it breaks up and won’t clear out in any gear. Sound like I have a stutter box stuck at like 7000 rpm
Drive down the road, hold it wide open for a bit and kill the motor while doing so. Pull the clutch in and coast to a stop. Check the plug.
I believe there is a sticky post about plug chops i copied from the interwebs.
does it just break up when wide open? or will it do it at other throttle positions?
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Just simply instal a new plug, start up and give throttle, then quickly turn it off and take out spark plug.... cut away the threads portion of the spark plug to reveal the inside of the white ceramic electrode. It should be light tan to brown I believe... but don’t quote me, I may be a little off in this post
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How do you do a plug chopmif it breaks up and won’t clear out in any gear. Sound like I have a stutter box stuck at like 7000 rpm
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Yes I held it open
No I didn’t do a leak down test
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180 is great for a 500. 250's around 220.
When you tested, did you hold the throttle wide open?
We'll need a lot more info for figuring your jetting but i can tell you that 172 in that small carb on a 250 seems really really massive. I ran the 39pwk bored to 40.5 on a slightly ported 500 and i think I ran mid to upper 170 main. 180 main.
Might buy a few genuine Keihin jets and start stepping down the main until you get your powerband back. Maybe do a plug chops at full throttle to be sure you dont get too lean.
Do you know if your motor is air tight? have you done a leakdown test?
***Edit: I remembered i ran a 185ish main. So maybe 172 isnt far off? Either way, do some plug chops and see if you're lean/just right/rich on the main and go from there.
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It’s 172 main and 58 pilot
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Any recommendations for the jetting?
I thought 188 was good for compression what should it be?
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could be electrical. Likely a jetting issue with the main jet. Compression is a bit on the low side but should be fine.
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250 breaks so every time I try to hit power band.
I replaced spark plugs new read cage cleans carb
Idles good low and mid range is perfect. I ordered a new coil but it comes tomorrow. I bought this used compression is 188 38 mm PWK carburetor pod filter for .20 over Paul Turner pipe and silencer
Cool head