Suzuki Quadracer HQ
LT250R Quadracer => LT250R - Engine => Topic started by: Foxracing500r on October 14, 2015, 07:31:00 am
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https://youtu.be/OvdMBOZi3AM
Motor done!
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Ok. So finally it is ready for engine build time. Cylinder is honed with a nice cross stitch. The bottom end is cleaned, prepped and ready for assembly. The frame where engine is going is finished and ready.
I have a little over spray, but thats what Winter is for, where I can detail it nice for Spring. As of now I am racing the snow and trying to get the engine fired before snow hits.
Final steps are:
Rebuild top end
Prep and paint motor
Install Motor
Install exhaust, foot pegs and new cables
Clean carb up
Fire it up!
(http://s11.postimg.org/jwxopyjkf/12226716_1083341281678354_483569847_n.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/jwxopyjkf/)
(http://s16.postimg.org/rjdnxioa9/12233310_1083341301678352_210096551_n.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/rjdnxioa9/)
(http://s14.postimg.org/oy1emdr1p/12242892_1083341448345004_1718865064_o.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/oy1emdr1p/)
As you can see, the frame has a nice high gloss, high temp clear and really shines nice. I want to hit the whole bike excluding fenders with it for a nice gloss finish.
So far I have had a dozen offers to buy this thing. Ranging from $5-700 and trades like tools, air compressors and other dirt bikes and stuff.
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No offense taken +k2
I literally got that email a day or two after i posted the first time about using a hosting site.
A> A>
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That's cool man. Not trying to offend you.
I still have to get some more pics. The rain has made working on it rough
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I just got an email saying the site is about out of space so.... It wont be long and you'll be required to use a hosting site or you won't be able to post pics.
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I've just been sending them through Facebook messenger and saving them on my computer. Then uploading
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Use a hosting site like imgur or photobucket. Post your pics to those site then use the IMG code to link them to the forum.
You can post better photos and it doesnt eat up space on the site.
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Engine out finally. After hours on that swingarm bolt I got it free. Took half a can of pb blaster, a breaker bar, and a electric impact.
The frame is gross. I plan on trailering it to the car wash and get ready for paint.
The frame, foot pegs, bumper sprocket cover and hood are purple.
The engine will be gloss black along with shocks and a arms.
Zombie quad lol. Black seat too. Pics coming in a few. iPhone photos too large
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Well after soaking, moving the motor and swing arm, I got that cruddy bolt turning. My dad let me borrow an impact to get it really free. As of now I am just using a breaker and deep well. I ran out of light so tomorrow after the babies appointment I will give it another go.
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I've removed a bunch of stuck swinger bolts by doing kinda what all american did. Spray it with penetrating oil and have a friend turn the bolt as you hit it out. I made a rod tool that fit inside the hole on the threaded end. I smashed the rod with a hammer and out they come.
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When I took out my swing arm bolt, it was seized also. I sprayed PB penetrating oil in it, let it sit for a day. Then I sprayed it again and let it sit for a day. Then I used my pneumatic air hammer with a tappered punch on it. That thing wouldn't come off when I tried beating the shiz out of it. But a couple seconds of an air hammer made that bolt slide out like butter and I didn't remove the shock bolt or lift or lower the quad. It just needed to soak in PB for a few days and then air hammered free and you should be able to pull it right out. Letting it soak in PB for a few days was key. Be sure to hit the cracks between the motor and the swinger. That was my experience. Hope it helps.
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Yah it's only one bolt to take one end of the shock off. You want to disconnect the lower bolt from the linkage.
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I was going through my Chilton last night seeing how to do it. Looks like only a bolt for the shock bracket to loosen
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I might have been a little off on info saying that the swingarm wouldn't pivot if it was seized in there. It could be stuck in the motor but I highly doubt it. I have an aluminum punch that is 10" long and about 12mm diameter. Works perfect to smack that bolt out. Once you get it out it will never be as hard again. But I know for sure that relieving the pressure from the swingarm is key.
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Thanks man. I'm going to give it a go on my next day off. I really want this engine out. I am using the jack from the Tahoe now lol. I need to get my tools from my parents house.
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I highly doubt it's seized. If your rear ended compresses when you sit or push on it it's not stuck. That is the pivot bolt. Meaning the swingarm pivots there and wouldn't pivot if it was stuck. Don't force it out that's not the way to get it out.! I have had my swingarm off plenty and the bolt never moves until you get pressure off of it.
As for the swingarm, I would disconnect the shock from the linkage. And get it out of the way. You will have to use a jack to raise or lower the frame to reach the "sweet spot." Where there is no pressure or tension on the bolt. You should be able to find this spot by trying to turn the bolt as your raising or lowering the frame. Most likely you won't have to raise the frame but you will probably have to lower it down just a tad lower than it sits with the shock on. When you get it to that spot use a punch that is smaller diameter than the bolt and punch it out.
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hit the bolt end while using a breaker bar or an impact gun to gently as possible walk it back and forth till it loosens. once you get it moving a little bit it should start moving easier and easier. in and out back and forth. tap it around with a hammer and rotating .back and forth in and out. it should free up.
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The biggest problem is space. My workbench has been gravel, the back of the Tahoe and in my living room, which causes a trip to the Doghouse.
My biggest issue now, is I think my swingarm is seized. I got the nut off but the bolt is not moving. I have the motor unbolted except for that. Any tips?
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http://www.suzukiquadracerhq.com/general-discussion/92-lt250r-restoration/
Here is a link to my 92 resto thread. The motor is out of the bike at the moment and apart on my workbench cylinder and head is out to Carl Bartlett.
Also there are lots of companies that make great pipes for the lt250r. Shearer, ftz, dynoport to name a couple of the best, there are also some other names that may be coming up in the future. Aeen also makes a nice pipe.
Your bike has an FMF pipe, it is the correct pipe for the year depending on the exhaust flange that might have been your issue. And yes the lt250 pipes are tricky to get in and out of the frame
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Looks like you have a good project quad for a great price! If your piston broke at all, or even the piston ring **** off, more than likely there are chunks in the crank bearings. If you have the motor out, like Dutch said its worth it to replace the crank bearings and seals and check the condition of the crank. Trust me there is nothing more frustrating than strong your engine all together just to have to take it back out and completly apart. I know getting it back up and "running" sounds great but taking it slow and doing it right might have the best outcome.
Even with a flushing of the crank area you most likely will not get everything out, I'm just trying to help you in the long run. These motors are extremely easy to take apart and reassemble. There are also lots of guys on the site here that have already or will answer any questions along the way. If you have any further questions or want to chat pm me I like talking quadracers.
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Yay! Ok. So my stepdad checked the piston, and the cylinder thoroughly and after a nice measure we determined that the cylinder is perfect for a standard piston. The guy luckily knew what happened and didn't mess it up more by mashing and screwing with it.
He gave me supplies to hone the cylinder, some lube and a couple of tips from his days of riding and I am good to go.
Next is to hone the cylinder, pull the bottom end and re do the frame paint and start rebuilding again.
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With my LT I was at this point. I just went in and re did the bottom end. You already have the motor out and the top end off. You might as well take the extra bolts out and split your cases to check for additional damage. It is the only way to know for sure. When I split mine it was my first time but with help from the forum, and those manuals that I posted you should be able to take care of it easily.
I thought that for me at least I would hate to put money into re doing the top end, take it for a ride then have something drastically go wrong with the bottom end, which would cause you to have to purchase whole new cases. when you could of spent the extra $200 and extra week and it could have been prevented. Either way we're here to help.
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I am almost thinking standard bore. The cylinder is in great shape. I gotta measure first. That's whats holding things up now
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your correct it could go both ways. you should hear crunching noises if there is chunks in the crank bearings.
- also remember the cylinder cannot be finished untill the machinist has the new piston in his hands. see if you can decide on a piston size and order it up.
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I read a story online where a guy had an extremely similar situation with a YZ125.
Piston broke same place, top of piston looked the same etc. He fished busted pieces out, then with the engine out, he 2 cycle gas in the case, swooshed it around and dumped it out upside down. He did this maybe 3 times and he rebuilt and runs the bike again.
Anybody think this would work? By the size of the chunk I fetched out, there is very small pieces left. I did get a few almost shavings out with a rag.
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Draining the transmission oil will not remove broken piston fragments. The transmission compartment and the crankshaft compartment are not connected. If they are, your cases are broken and the cases need to be split to evaluate the damage.
Any way to do this without splitting cases?
Like I said, top end I am fine, but anything bottom end is in uncharted territory.
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itchy trigger finger
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Ok so a broken Piston.
I examined the case and it seems some little metal shavings have made their way. I am going to flush the crank case out real good though when I drain, and re drain. I am hoping it will be enough.
The cylinder looks pretty well. Not chewed up or scored. I want to measure at my parents shop in the coming week to see what size piston to order.
What do you guys think?
Only thing that bothers me is the worn ring.
Draining the transmission oil will not remove broken piston fragments. The transmission compartment and the crankshaft compartment are not connected. If they are, your cases are broken and the cases need to be split to evaluate the damage.
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its up to you. makes sense to fix it cheap for now. then later if the bottom end starts making noises hopefully the top end will be ok still.
thats where im at right now with a good running top end but 2nd gear needs to be replaced.
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Here is the cylinder
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Ok so a broken Piston.
I examined the case and it seems some little metal shavings have made their way. I am going to flush the crank case out real good though when I drain, and re drain. I am hoping it will be enough.
The cylinder looks pretty well. Not chewed up or scored. I want to measure at my parents shop in the coming week to see what size piston to order.
What do you guys think?
Only thing that bothers me is the worn ring.
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well cause the piston wont come off. look the rod is aluminum so its the first item to wear out concerning the upper wrist pin.
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The connecting rods are not ALUMINUM!!!!!
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I got the cylinder off and seen the damage.
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well cause the piston wont come off. look the rod is aluminum so its the first item to wear out concerning the upper wrist pin.
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How come the rod?
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the head looks ok.
looks like you need a new connecting rod after all. its full rebuild time. refer to the list above. let us know if you need something.
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Ok head off. Learned the hard way to drain the coolant first. But eh lol.
Here is what I have.
How bad does the head look? No cracks, just some metal indentions.
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that bolt should come out easy.
-i wouldnt worry about the pipe but post a picture if you dont know what it is.
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In Exhaust port
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So more clues to the puzzle lol.
I pulled the carb, reeds, and exhaust. The exhaust was totally not for this quad. Maybe different year but nothing matched up, and over 30 mins was spent getting it off and unwrapped from the frame.
Anyways. I found a bolt was broken from the intake tube and reed cage. I think maybe a little more into the leaning it out thing.
I looked into exhaust port and saw piston. I looked into reed port and it looks like the skirt may have chipped. So we will see.
I ran out of light and the progress ends today.
Any thoughts?
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Welcome to the forum.
If it helps I have service manuals available at this link through my google drive:
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B9omowPyQJKac21lcjFBajlRdmM&usp=sharing
I know when I was doing my rebuild that it was a HUGE help having access to these. A lot of great guys and info on this site!
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Why not jump in with both feet and swap out that 250 motor with a 500?
Tons on info on the site about how to make a hybrid.
Either way, great buy for $500! Make a rebuild thread and take lots of pics. We like pics.
w+
Q2W, he came from a Lakota & a Grizzly. We don't want to kill the new guy! lol
Great buy for $500. Welcome to the forum. Pull the exhaust & the head off to give you a better view of any obvious problems.
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I'm going for it tomorrow I think. My parents run a auto shop so they have the tool to measure the cylinder. I'm really shooting for a top end only. I have only ever done top end before. I am hoping a nice hone and rebuild will do it. I want to see where I need to go before I start buying parts
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there is only 3 moving parts concerning the engine. the transmission is completly seperate.
the power valve is probly fine but will need a good cleaning. so far you know you need a top end rebuild.
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a good full on engine rebuild would need
- crank bearings and wrist bearing
-a new rod on the crank
-crank seals
-piston kit
- piston wrist spacers.
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pull the cylinder up and take a picture. maybe you will be lucky and be able to remove the wrist pin ok.
-you can test the crank a little if you get the piston off.
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So I was reading different stories of people "Blowing" their bike up.
Most seem to lose compression and not run right. Others lean it out and seize. Now I was reading where somebody seized, and a guy told him to pull the plug, squirt a bit of WD-40 (In my case PB Blaster), and manualy kick it over with your hand to see if it still glides up and down.
Mine does not. I squirt a tiny bit of PB, and pushed and nothing. I even gave a little force on second time and no budge.
I am waiting for the complete tear down to extract engine and see problem. But if I blew something in the bottom end I would end up purchasing a new motor, as I have no Idea about bottom.
Any Ideas? could I still just have a very stuck piston and not a destroyed lower half.
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Well I got all the plastic and the front bumper off. Also the gas tank. When draining tank I saw no blue tint. I almost feel he ran the wrong gas can in it. I also went and washed the fenders at the car wash.
I have pics of how far I can move the kickstart. It's nowhere really.
I also got my clymer book today. I am liking the challenge ahead. My only concern with engine tear down is space. I literally have just enough room in the shed for the quad. So when it comes time to pull engine I dont know how I will do it.
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it looks good. check the bearings on the front end first and then the rear end ---then refresh the engine last since the swing arm holds the engine in place so you will want the swingarm ready to go back on when the engine is rebuilt.
---get the front end all back together before you tackle the swingarm and engine connection.
good luck man
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Thanks man. My Clymer manual will be here via UPS in a few. I am excited to start catching up on these. I figure later when the lady gets home I am gonna start some tear down.
I am really hoping I can get by with just a cylinder hone and a rebuild kit, but we will see.
Anyone know of any catalogs you can get in the mail for these anymore?
I swear, 2003 was a different time for these thing. Dennis Kirk, White Brothers, and Parts Unlimited used to have a ton of parts and now they are rare.
So far besides a brand new FMF fatty, and a used DG silencer are all I am finding for exhaust.
Did 2 strokes really get shunned this bad since 06?
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Doesn't look that bad, should clean up pretty good.
there might be a Suzuki manual for DL on here and if you need motor work contact Carl (Ice racer) he's in NY but definitely knows what he's doing on the 250's.
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More
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Sorry for the DP.
Here is how she sits right now. Just cleared the shed, and yanked her out of the back of the Tahoe.
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Thanks man!
I would do the swap except for the money. I just want something to screw around with. Once in a while speed it down the street or something. My **** riding days are over, I am mainly going just for a toy.
I want to deck it out a little though. I need a new throttle cable, so I was thinking of replacing the whole assembly.
I give you guys credit on the 500r swap though. Everyone I have known to own a QuadZilla has sold them out of fear lol. I just figure a fun little 250r.
Does it sound typical to just rebuild the motor after it seized? Or do you think honing, or possibly boring will come into play?
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Why not jump in with both feet and swap out that 250 motor with a 500?
Tons on info on the site about how to make a hybrid.
Either way, great buy for $500! Make a rebuild thread and take lots of pics. We like pics.
w+
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Hey guys, Foxracing500r here. I am usually making GTA videos on YouTube but I decided to get a bike again after years. I have 2 little girls and a great fiance that doesn't mind my stupid decisions sometimes :) . I have some time to rebuild, maybe a couple hours a week. But I plan on making this a Winter build, and break it in, in spring.
Little back story. My previous bikes have been more utility bikes. I had an TRX125 when I was wee little, then a Lt300 Suzuki, Lakota Sport, Grizzly 600 and had a buddies RM125 while he was in Iraq.
I started taking apart and building 2 strokes around 11 years old, so that aspect I am not too new lol.
Anyways. I came across a 92 lt250r for $500. It has a seized piston. The guy I bought it from told me he had it for 5 years, beat the crap out of it and it was a really good bike. He said when it seized, the bike died, he hit the clutch and drifted a good ways. He said he tried pop starting it once and realized it was done.
The bike sat for 2 months and as of yesterday it is sitting in the back of my Tahoe (Yes it fits, barely lol).
So, I am cleaning the shed today, and moving all the kids stuff around to make room for my newest project.
I want to stop by the cycle shop today and get a Clymer manual. So that way I learn a little. Any tips or heads up I should need? I live in good old WV with one cycle shop. So Ebay, Craigslist and online parts will most likely be my source.
Edit: Btw, the pic is not at my place of the bike. It is at his. I plan on snapping a few later once I clean it up some.