Suzuki Quadracer HQ
LT500R Quadracer => LT500 - General Discussion => Topic started by: Rogue1970 on August 23, 2015, 10:48:47 pm
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I looked under the blanket today to see if it was still there!?
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Stacked more **** on top of it!! Lol
Lol :))
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Stacked more **** on top of it!! Lol
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Mike didnt talk you into putting the polaris 800 snowmobile intake on?
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I didn't have any issue with the GPI on the Zilla...On my Banshee however, I did have to tweak the mounting tabs just a tad...but on my LT500R not one thing.. if fit perfectly...
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How was the fit of the GPI radiator?Any "tweaking" need to be done?
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About 4 months ago, I purchased a 1987 BIG REED LT500R with a brand spankin' newly re-done top end and crank. I've taken the quad completely apart all the way to the last nut and bolt and I'm now in the process of re-assembling, restoring and upgrading evey single thing on that machine. Frame and tons of other parts are already powdered. Tyler Renner built a set of +2-+1 A-arms as well as a +4 swinger which accepts an eccentric (Honda style) LSR carrier, axle nuts are billet aluminum by Durablue. All hubs have been upgraded to the more common 4/144 fronts and 4/110 rears from an LT-Z400. A-arms and swinger as well as many other items are already triple-chromed and assembled. A complete set of Series #3 Elkas Legacy "Pluses" are on, as well as Durablue rear extended wheel hubs are also on. All new, rebuilt and/or very well cleaned parts are on. All hardware is either new and/or cleaned and a new harness by STB has been installed as well. A GPI all-aluminum radiator will cool this Monster and the Coolant will flow through new silicone hoses custom-made and obtained from Roose Motorsports in the UK. The powerplant is being custom-built, ported and timed by Rob Selvy in Fontana, California; Selvy is also performing the cylinder stud reinforcement modification, the O-ring, machine work and squish band adjustments to a Duncan Powerhead with a 53cc dome, which will eventually top the motor. She'll be breathing through a Rob Selvy-modified 44mm Mukuni and Mike Steiner is building an all-aluminum intake manifold to match the 44mm carb, which then will "sandwich" a set of VForce 4 reeds, Mike Steiner is also building an all-aluminum air box eliminator plenum that will hold a huge K&N air filter behind the Mikuni. All spent gases will then be pulled and released through super fat top-end pipe built on the bike by Kenny Roberts and the Sunoco Supreme 112 octane fuel will be ignited by a Nology PFC 03-S 45K volt coil...I honestly can't wait to destroy the arch on my right foot when I crank over this Blue and White BEAST for the first time...😲🥴🤣
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Well, well, well... I’ve since purchased quite a few things to put murderzilla back together.
My Makita drill batteries seem to have died and purchased a 300cca lithium WPS battery to take their place.
Ahhhh. Did some modifications on the thumb throttle to accept a microswitch.
Purchased a Leash single stage relay board and progressive controller for the nitrous.
Purchased some 18x2 spindle mount front wheels and painted flat black, along with some 81” roll out 16 paddle straight extremes. Painted flat black.
Purchased a lightweight plastic wheelie bar wheel with a titanium shaft.
Removed the aluminum tank from the nose and will be replacing it with a 1.5qt poly tank between the upper frame rails above the engine.
Purchased a CF seat pan and sold the trimmed down banshee one I had.
All in all, may have dropped 8-10# so far. Maybe not.
With it being below freezing and negative digits with wind chill in a shop with a ventless heater. Not much more is happening.
Put in for time off for the PSDA races in Louisiana in May and time off for PSDA race in Kentucky in October. Just see how deep in the 3’s this thing can go.
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Same at the 250.Absolutely nothing lol...Both are in storage till the snow is gone in the spring.
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Sent my tranny off to r&d motorsports in florida for some modifications.
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I crawled over my 500 the other day to pull my jet ski battery for the winter. Thats about it since last winter. Ill be pulling it from storage soon to figure out what im doing with the rear shock. I ended up running a warrior rear shock with the eccentric flipped to get close to where i want to be on ride height with the -2 swingarm. Last time out, I noticed the shock puking oil when i was loading it up at the end of the day. I may just end up putting a spacer in an oem with a shorter spring. not sure yet.
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Well could not butt watch my wifey put on the rear shock😉.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/3GdNyIF6VvG8Oisr1
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Thank you sir
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frame looks great Andy!
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Gave my frame a new blue color(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170815/360612a314800204bb4dd2ead141a155.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170815/aff254cf4042574b19b3b71e057e305b.jpg)
Sent from my LG-K425 using Tapatalk
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I'm just waiting for my flywheel to come in from getting it balanced after welding the hub.
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Here is a brief overview...You can make a homemade tester,some here have done it if you ask around.
Forgot to post the link.
http://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=3&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwiqnsPrnbbVAhUDMz4KHbbgDRMQFgg5MAI&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.off-road.com%2Fatv%2Freview%2Fproduct-review-motion-pros-leakdown-test-kit-23724.html&usg=AFQjCNGnqjzIBiDBwf95QbLGjZGlIJ2hUw
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Let us know how that swap goes. I've been wanting to upgrade the brakes on my 500 but wasn't sure where to start. I know some have used Z400 spindles but from what I understand it requires custom A-arms fabricated to use Z400 ball joints. I'm not 100% positive on that though.
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I'm loading up my hybrid in my truck and taking it to my parent's this evening. I'm doing a front hub and spindle swap. I can't get the upper a-arm out of the spindle with my limited tools at my apartment. I'm still going to need a new set of wheels for it.
I'm installing 400ex spindles and hubs with YFZ450 dual piston brake calipers. The rear is getting new 4x110 Durablue hubs installed too.
Hopefully this thing will be able to stop good. The original brake calipers that are still on it are junk.
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Here is a brief overview...You can make a homemade tester,some here have done it if you ask around.
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How are you guys doing leak down tests ? I need to know the correct way to go about it
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Nope never built a leak down tester.
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Can't get my bike figured out why it will not kick start but will pull start. Used to be able to pull start it then it would kick start once warm, now it won't kick start warm or cold. I've replaced dry side crank seal and regrounded and cleaned all connections. There is a hard spot in the kick from doing the starting procedure just past first hard spot then bring kicker back up and hammer it, that first hard spot stops my foot like a concrete floor. So I'm pulling my motor and tearing it apart. I recently did rings and gaskets about 6 rides before this all started. The bike started up fine and ran great before I did my swing arm swap. The swing arm swap is when this all started and I didn't do a damn thing to the motor. So that's what I've done to my 500 this week. But it's been sitting because of this issue since last July which is very sad.
Sounds like you've got a ring issue or a piston with a cold seize maybe, did you ever build a leak down tester?
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Can't get my bike figured out why it will not kick start but will pull start. Used to be able to pull start it then it would kick start once warm, now it won't kick start warm or cold. I've replaced dry side crank seal and regrounded and cleaned all connections. There is a hard spot in the kick from doing the starting procedure just past first hard spot then bring kicker back up and hammer it, that first hard spot stops my foot like a concrete floor. So I'm pulling my motor and tearing it apart. I recently did rings and gaskets about 6 rides before this all started. The bike started up fine and ran great before I did my swing arm swap. The swing arm swap is when this all started and I didn't do a damn thing to the motor. So that's what I've done to my 500 this week. But it's been sitting because of this issue since last July which is very sad.
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Not a Zilla but dang close in cc's
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2RhblWaQgiI
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I am sure they probably would if they think there is a market for them. Considering the fact that none of the major aftermarket companies really care much about making new parts for these quads they probably will. I am definitely buying some for my 500 once I get to that point in my project but I got a lot of other stuff I need to get before then.
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anyway to get a set of those for an 88 250?
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Or you can just buy the modified roll design pegs for the 500 I have for sale.
http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sgv/mpo/5454410149.html
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those are similar to my roll design ones. look a bit narrower though. Nice find!
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I have had them for a while I bought em for my 87 zilla. But I ended just using my stock ones on that one because I kept hitting the top of my foot on the pegs when I kicked it over. Honestly I think they are a crappy design the bolt for the right peg has to be so damned long for it to mount id be scared to death to hit any major jumps with them and it not break off.
there is a company in Georgia that makes some pretty nice pegs for atc 250r,s and trx 250r,s called unhinged atv I bought a set of their pegs for my 87 250r and they are badass they offer them in steel and stainless I talked with them a while back about the possibility of making some for the lt 500,s since nobody else does and apparently they took my advice because they offer them on their website and on their e-bay store now here is a link if you happen to be interested http://www.ebay.com/itm/1987-1990-Suzuki-LT500R-Quadzilla-Foot-Pegs-with-Integrated-Kick-Ups-UnhingedATV-/301678815549?hash=item463d75693d:g:nbQAAOSwgQ9Vlrrm&vxp=mtr
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painted my frame on my 88 zilla ford sonic blue. machined my spindles to accept Honda hubs. contemplating on weather to use my set of ris designs billet pegs or buy a set of pegs from unhinged atv
How did you get lucky enough to score a pair of RIS Designs foot pegs? Seems like that guy burned a few guys on their dealings with that business.
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painted my frame on my 88 zilla ford sonic blue. machined my spindles to accept Honda hubs. contemplating on weather to use my set of ris designs billet pegs or buy a set of pegs from unhinged atv
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i walked into my garage and looked at it today.
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Repacked the silencer for my 500 today.
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Stared at it, contemplated tearing it down again to fix up some faults. Decided not to and called it a day.
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Shipped motor for a full rebuild all the goodies cant wait to get it back.
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It's definitely worth it. LOL
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I've done and spent a lot and still have a lot to do. LOL Money pit.
Yea but at least you get to watch a tired LT500r become a beast.
I blew a lot of money back in the day about the time i bought my zilla. My zilla is all i have to show for it all and im glad i have it.
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New sprockets, chain installed and adjusted. Changed the oil.
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I installed a Dr q pipe v1 and cut the ears off. Next the right chain rollers and jetting.
I've tried posting pic but it said an error occurred. Any ideas
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Without my crappy plastics.
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I've done and spent a lot and still have a lot to do. LOL Money pit.
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Fast Bars
Shock Wears
Dune Trackers
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Not too much tonight. Hooked up and ran the clutch and throttle cables. Have a new hood that I am modifying, so I don't have to twist it when R&Ring the damn thing. I'll see how it works when I get some more parts delivered.
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Thanks. Now I just have to figure out a good looking mount for the Vapor computer and the LED light.
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I like how that setup looks. One of these days, I'll do something similar to one of my Quadracers.
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Cool Skeans1. Thought about building up a TRX also..... but, just bought a sand rail that needs some work.
Zillicious, yep totally understand the funds thing. I had saved up and sold off some toys when I built mine in 2010. Now its just a little here and there.
Well spent a little time tonight on the Zilla. Got my mounting hardware from LSR and got the bars and hardware bolted on for fitment.
(http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n135/rogue1970/1989%20Suzuki%20Quadzilla/20150921_214802_zpsex40quxw.jpg)
(http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n135/rogue1970/1989%20Suzuki%20Quadzilla/20150921_214809_zpssicaponz.jpg)
(http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n135/rogue1970/1989%20Suzuki%20Quadzilla/20150921_214816_zpsm59emrjr.jpg)
(http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n135/rogue1970/1989%20Suzuki%20Quadzilla/20150921_214821_zpsvo9fkqz4.jpg)
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I sat on mine and made engine noises. Been in the rebuild process for a year now. Funds are tough to come by
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Looks good Rogue I gave up on mine a few months back and sold it to build up an R. 363 Sphinx motor built by Hybrid Engineering pipe built by Matt Shearer 40mm billet Smartcarb knock on wood no issues yet.
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Pushed her around the garage a little.
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Finished installing my freshly rebuilt and revalved shocks:
(http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n135/rogue1970/1989%20Suzuki%20Quadzilla/20150910_071742_zpskachnhk7.jpg)
(http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n135/rogue1970/1989%20Suzuki%20Quadzilla/20150910_071757_zpskguc72uq.jpg)
Also you can see my new LSR Anti-Vibe +1 +1 stem on there.... another pic of the stem:
(http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n135/rogue1970/1989%20Suzuki%20Quadzilla/20150910_071747_zpskfefskpq.jpg)
When I rebuilt my Zilla 5 years ago (wow that long already), I used a Stainless Steel bolt/nut set. The first area I had an issue with was a finger tight tank bolt that galled and tore out the nut to mount the front of the gas tank to the frame. Well I've been using a bolt and nut in that area ever since. I have been sick and tired of getting a wrench to the nut when R&Ring the tank.
Some of my other quads use a slide in front with bolts at the rear of the gas tank mounting method. I modified my stock tank to do the same. Here is a zoomed picture from above where you can see the left side in place.
(http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n135/rogue1970/1989%20Suzuki%20Quadzilla/cc178429-60ea-4235-8177-66146a9b93a8_zpshzxll4bm.jpg)
I'll probably add several pictures in my build thread showing the areas I modified.
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fogged the yard around the barn lastnight during the first ride on the rebuilt 89.
gatta love fat jetted 20:1 klotz mixed 110vp race gas ,,,lol
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The back of the cylinder were its reinforced runs a long nut like the one on the front right side
Sorry, I was talking about the front left nut (as you sit on the quad). I just ended up grinding down a 17mm wrench so I could have a little more room to torque it down.
Tonight I installed my freshly rebuilt Custom Axis rear shock. Since my fuel tank frame nuts were stripped, from stainless steel bolts, I modified the tank mount to slide into posts that I have bolted to the frame.
Also since my tie rod ball joints are worn, I ordered a set of AMR ProX Tie rods and ends.
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offered to walk the neighbors dog everyday, if he wouldn't mind helping me generate alittle extra coin for an HPR H19 pipe....lol
Mowed the acreage as fast as I could today to get the time to play with zilla, then girlfriend texted she's Bringing home KFC !!! zilla can wait till tomorrow I guess [|]
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I pulled my fresh 87 bottom end off the shelf and laid some True Blue onto it. Soon she will moving into her new place, An 89 chassis.
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Finished flushing out the cooling system. Sanded down the impeller cover and gave it a coat of gloss black. Ordered and received a new mag gasket.
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I bought 8' of 3/4" aluminum tubing to fab up a new sub-frame. Now I gotta order a new set of dies for my bender. smallest one I have is 1".
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got my air bladder today to help rule out my powervalve leak tomorrow .
It didn't feel right being in town and not bringing anything home for the zilla... So I bought a can of chain lube ...lol
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fixed one of my jj&a 3 spoke wheels. was leak in air around bead. need to do the same to one of the rear wheels. it leaks off also.
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Hard to find at the price I scored it for ;) I borrowed the shops rollerskate car on company fuel and tolls. My boss didnt want any money for it. He writes it all off and I didn't argue. lol. Plus it was a nice ride out to the western part of the state. Its a nice ride.
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I just drove 4 hours round trip to buy a really nice Durablue sway bar for my new Icezilla.
A really good deal or just that tough to find?
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be sure your leak down tester isnt leaky.
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I just drove 4 hours round trip to buy a really nice Durablue sway bar for my new Icezilla.
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Buckeye I've got two pm and I'll send you pictures of both. Jared
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Reallyreallylovemyzilla can you post a picture of your leak down tester?
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changed crank seals today on the 89. also fixed the intake reed cage leak.
leak test failed terribly, leaked from 9psi to zero in 1 min 18 sec. Hoping my powervalve is the source and not the case half seal.
Going to try a bladder style exhaust seal instead of a rubber expandable plug , and try it again tomorrow
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The back of the cylinder were its reinforced runs a long nut like the one on the front right side
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Nice Hemi.... hey did you use a smaller nut for the cylinder? Looks you have some room around that bolt to actually tighten it easily.
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I tore mine down to bare frame and painted everything. I also installed my Bartlett racing motor
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Walked past mine in the garage still pissed at it cause I can't seem to figure out what's causing it to not wanna run right at idle since my plus 4 swing arm installation.
Install a new pilot jet, the old one may have a layer of varnish on the inside of the fuel passageway that is making it act smaller than the actual size.
Make sure that none of your vent lines are pinched or closed because of a zip tie bundling the lines together is too tight.
Check and blow out the transition holes that the pilot jet feeds.
Make sure the choke plunger is seating when the choke is turned off.
So Jerry, you saying there is no good way to soak/clean the pilot jet?
Soaking the jets in a good cleaner and agitating it periodically usually works. Squirting carburetor cleaner through the jets may clean them and it may not clean them
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put a fresh 40 over top end on our Stock port/carbed and caged 89 with FMF pipe today. Tried to find solder to verify squish, but couldn't find any...lol
Also changed out the pilot 22.5 to a 27.5 , dropped clip down to 3rd from top, and changed main to a 420 .
It was nice and cool outside today ;D
I really liked the blowing soapy bubbles from the reed cage/ intake boot gasket. (even lightly sanded cage down on a piece of glass ) and put a gasket coated with sealer between the rubber on cage and intake boot.
Planning even more fun and shenanagins tomorrow , Find solder for squish check, resolve reed cage leaks, put pipe and body on .....and if theres time , get the break in period and re-torq's out of the way.... (Y)
Annnnne Den .... Look at the 87 basket case that needs frame dropped off for coating , wondering if it's better to ask for permission or beg for forgiveness ???
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Got a brand new pilot jet in it Jerry. Pretty sure it's either got an air leak or something went a mess with my electrical system.
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Walked past mine in the garage still pissed at it cause I can't seem to figure out what's causing it to not wanna run right at idle since my plus 4 swing arm installation.
Install a new pilot jet, the old one may have a layer of varnish on the inside of the fuel passageway that is making it act smaller than the actual size.
Make sure that none of your vent lines are pinched or closed because of a zip tie bundling the lines together is too tight.
Check and blow out the transition holes that the pilot jet feeds.
Make sure the choke plunger is seating when the choke is turned off.
So Jerry, you saying there is no good way to soak/clean the pilot jet?
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Walked past mine in the garage still pissed at it cause I can't seem to figure out what's causing it to not wanna run right at idle since my plus 4 swing arm installation.
Install a new pilot jet, the old one may have a layer of varnish on the inside of the fuel passageway that is making it act smaller than the actual size.
Make sure that none of your vent lines are pinched or closed because of a zip tie bundling the lines together is too tight.
Check and blow out the transition holes that the pilot jet feeds.
Make sure the choke plunger is seating when the choke is turned off.
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Walked past mine in the garage still pissed at it cause I can't seem to figure out what's causing it to not wanna run right at idle since my plus 4 swing arm installation.
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Thought I would start this type of thread where we can share little stuff we might of done to our quads.
I'll start. Removed handlebars, radiator, and radiator Edit... AND STEERING STEM.
Straightened some fins on the radiator, cleaned it up and gave it some coats of paint. Chased it with a heat gun to try and get it a little harder of a finish from a rattle can.
Cleaned and painted my handlebars too.
No pics today.