Suzuki Quadracer HQ
LT250R Quadracer => LT250R - Engine => Topic started by: 92lt250wannabe on August 02, 2015, 08:12:02 pm
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as on the manual .............
you need locktite on
gearshift cam bolt
stator monting bolt
magento bolt
primary drive gear bolt
balancer shaft bolt
crankshaft oil seal
i maby forget some, but yes suzuki use locktite on the engine
I looked at the Suzuki manual and you are right. Make note that Suzuki uses different strengths of thread locker for different components
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as on the manual .............
you need locktite on
gearshift cam bolt
stator monting bolt
magento bolt
primary drive gear bolt
balancer shaft bolt
crankshaft oil seal
i maby forget some, but yes suzuki use locktite on the engine
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Thanks for the heads up motorgeek
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that exactly what happen when someone use silicon on a 2 stroke ...
you need to split your case ans use case glue instead of silicon.
don't forget to fellow the manual carefully and use grease and locktite where it need it.
I do not recall Suzuki recommending locktite anywhere during the assembly of any of their engines. Rotax recommends using locktite in a few places on some of their engine assembly. The need for using locktite is usually a band aid for an engineering error in the selection of the thread pitch or type of bolt in the original design.
The use of loctite is often a error on the part of the engine assembler that lacks experience. They believe that by using loctite they are improving the quality of the engine rebuild and guaranteeing that nothing will come loose. The assumption that nothing will come loose is usually correct but usually means that when it has to come apart someday for rebuilding, the threads are often damaged as a result of the loctite. We are constantly receiving engines that have had loctite used on the bolts that hold the cases together, used on the bolts that hold the clutch cover and on the taper and flywheel nut. Using loctite in these areas often adds hundreds of dollars to the cost of the rebuild.
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this a link to the oem service manual
http://www.mediafire.com/view/?onjk7f4773f0eu3 (http://www.mediafire.com/view/?onjk7f4773f0eu3)
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in the process of geting it all apart now. i plan on using a good case glue. not silicone. it does suck that i have to split the cases but oh well good learning experience. havent had the lt250 apart yet. zilla and banshee under my belt but that was years ago. I do have a clymer so i will be following it completly.
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well, at least you know what the problem is. Sucks you need to split the cases...
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that exactly what happen when someone use silicon on a 2 stroke ...
you need to split your case ans use case glue instead of silicon.
don't forget to fellow the manual carefully and use grease and locktite where it need it.
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If anyone has interest in having me make them one of these leak down testers I can. I know they aren't hard to make but some people just don't have time or what have you to do it. I would just charge the material cost. Pm me if needed anytime.
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Here is a photo of what I made. Plumbing plug for the exhaust. 1 3/4" worked for that and than just pvc for the intake a nice welding gas gauge must read low. Around 5lb, and a valve stem from auto parts store.
(http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n540/zjdlobik/C4812163-DB41-43C9-96EA-395A0A66E5E4.jpg) (http://s1138.photobucket.com/user/zjdlobik/media/C4812163-DB41-43C9-96EA-395A0A66E5E4.jpg.html)
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Well I had something happen out on a recent trail ride. I thought it was jetting issue due to the new 38mm carb i installed but turns out it was an air leak and a bearing went in the bottom end. I have not disassembled anything yet to be sure of the damage.
here is a video of the leak down results. i will also post pictures of my leakdown tester that i made.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hde3MJ0E3Pc