Suzuki Quadracer HQ
LT500R Quadracer => LT500R - Body / Chassis / Suspension => Topic started by: Buckeye513 on April 29, 2014, 11:15:14 pm
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http://www.jdscustoms.com/product-category/brake-rotors/suzuki-lt500r-rotors/
As far as wave rotors go JD has some of the cheapest (and their good quality) unless you go to rocky mountain and find something that works as a take off from another bike.
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As posted earlier in this thread, wave rotors were recomended for improved stopping performance.
That is not true, wave rotors make no real performance improvements. The only marketed hype is that the design allows for better cooling...only it isn't enough to be significant. If wave rotors are quality made, they may be less prone to warp, but again only if they are of good quality. But no rotor is immune to warpage.
Wave rotors marketed for the wave are all hype.
SS brake lines will improve the brake's feel. The lever or pedal will feel more positive, and less pressure will need to be applied, especially once the fluid is hot. However, contrary to popular belife, ss lines will not stop you sooner. The improved feel of brake response is very good though. I use them and have only positive things to say about ss lines.
The holes in the rotors are to allow gas to escape. The pad material gives off a gas when it heats up as the brakes are applied. A solid rotor only allows for the gas to escape around the pads edges, as opposed to through the drill holes that will be constantly passing the pads. If the gas can't escape quickly(on a non drilled rotor), then the gas is constantly between the pads and rotors during braking, and the pads cannot grip the rotor as efficiantly.
A better master cylinder and caliper upgrade are real brake performance improvements.
More clamping force can be applied to the rotors making shorter stops possible with upgrade/newer design parts.
Pads also make a big difference, carbon fiber pads work better than oem material, and most cf pads heat up quickly, therefore don't need to be used constantly to remain at a good operating temperature, like in a race environment.
Pads and brakes also should always be bedded correctly. When installing new pads, and especially rotors, a serious of hard stops should be done immediatedly(mfg will have instructions on package or website).
The pad material is embedded in the metal of the rotor as they are quickly heated from hard use.
Pad to steel stops good, but pad to pad material embedded steel stops much better, as more grip from greater friction is available. Bedding brakes properly embedds more pad material into the rotor when parts are new, and improves stopping ability.
Not such a big deal on a utility 4 whlr, but a 500 that will do 80 to 100 mph is a much bigger deal.
Every little bit counts when you have to stop asap.
Sorry, but had to bust the braking myths in this thread.
Check out sportbike braking if you have any doubts, they all work on the same principals and very similiar overall designs.
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I really have no idea about that, I think dipshit might have some front rotors for a z400. tell him to bring them to you along with your pegs when he picks up his seat cover.
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I know about that option zillafreak trying to maybe find something that will work for cheaper.
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http://www.jdscustoms.com/product-category/brake-rotors/suzuki-lt500r-rotors/
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So does anyone know if a z400 rear brake rotor will work with the Zilla? Or the z400 rear brake rotor and hub?
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Sled head 88+ a arms are round tubes. I'm sure the clamps will clamp down onto the square 87 arms.
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Light too! (Y)
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Cheap as it can get!
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Dez that how I do it. I love that look. Plus the price is right.
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moo
http://m.ebay.com/itm/261367496983?nav=SEARCH
stock a arms have square tubes, mount this on the radius rod?
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Here's how we do it in the ghetto... Zip tie & fuel line lol!
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j300/Dezsled/photo96.jpg)
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Hold the phones boys I got a clamp idea you guys will absolutely love and they cost next to nothing to make and look awesome imo... let me go to my garage and take a pic..
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Does the back bolt right on too?
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Buckeye buy stock z400 rotors they are already drilled and are way better quality than lt500 rotors they fit right on...
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http://m.ebay.com/itm/261367496983?nav=SEARCH
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They have clamps for them. I think speedlines makes them
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How are you guys clamping your braided lines with stock a arms?
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You don't have to worry about a hole on a little rotor throwing off the balance. It doesn't rotate fast enough to make a difference.
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Gotcha so map it out and measure twice drill once lol
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I wouldn't suggest it, as you would want to drill them symmetrically so they weigh the same and not unbalanced.
If you do it, plan ahead, don't just go drilling holes. They need to be placed correctly.
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No my stock front discs are not drilled should I drill them?
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Are the stock ones not already drilled? and you don't want to slot them, you want a wave design.
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Thank you zillafreak and Cunningham and lt250rwv for the constructive input. So braided lines first if in still not happy go with wave or drilled and slotted rotors? Can I drill and slot my stock rotors and achieve the same result?
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Are u guys serious??? Steel braded lines are the **** I pit them on all my quads u sure cant do a endo with the stock rubber lines and I could with braided lines. They dont swell like the rubber hoses do. 2c
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You would only notice a difference if your stock rubber is worn and swells when you hit the brakes.
If you want to improve braking, get some wave rotors.
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For what you offered how could I not include them in my roller if I decide to sell it. -T
This was more a post to discuss braking options and options for improvement and not so much a should I or should I not get steel braided brake lines post.
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Are you adding those brake lines to the rolling chassis?? -->
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I didnt feel any difference when I added them to my 250 Buck
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So I'm running stock brake lines and I'm not satisfied with braking performance, however adding the works triple rate front shocks did make a big difference. I do have the ltz400 front master cylinder. I'm curious would adding steel braided brake lines improve braking performance at all? If not what else can be done to improve braking on the lt500? Thanks guys for any input!