Suzuki Quadracer HQ
LT250R Quadracer => LT250R - General Discussion => Topic started by: Suzukguy14 on January 12, 2014, 08:11:49 pm
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Sure SuzukiGuy, lots of time I look on eBay & there's really nothing on there but new coils it seems!
Dave P*
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If it sits for long periods between rides the clutch will stick, I had a Tri-z way back that sat for a while, I fired it up and had to rip it on the road with the clutch in to break it loose. this was a extreme case. I usally hear this from bikes stored in hot climates and not run for long periods.
That could be the problem, I mean it hasn't been rode much in who knows how long so.
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Anybody know where Rodney (Rat Tail Rider) is hangin out these days? He is also in Maine. He could probably help you out too.
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If it sits for long periods between rides the clutch will stick, I had a Tri-z way back that sat for a while, I fired it up and had to rip it on the road with the clutch in to break it loose. this was a extreme case. I usally hear this from bikes stored in hot climates and not run for long periods.
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Change the oil in it put in some 5-30 for the cold months, where are located? Maine?
Yea in maine, I mean I won't be riding in the snow any way, unless I decide to ice race it but. As for now i just plan on pit riding. But Ill try the 5-30. Thanks!
Dave3500 I'll check it out thanks for the heads up!
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Any idea where I can get a stock axle?
I was looking around this morning on eBay did a search on LT250R, there are at least 2 bikes being totally torn down right now. Prices are not bad either. Complete tires w rims, you name it! Check it, Dave
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adjust clutch, or let it warm up more before you shift gears.
does it do that after it has been rode for 20min or so.
I adjusted it a bit according to what ice racer said, and It stopped after was warmer, when it first starts I can't even put it in gear without it wanting to jump forward, don't stall out though...just kicks
Mine does the same thing, I have to start it in Neutral w the clutch in let it run for a few minutes, give it some throttle, drop it in gear & go. Warmer is OK but it may be slipping sometimes if I don't gradually throttle up. Can goose it!
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Change the oil in it put in some 5-30 for the cold months, where are located? Maine?
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My Zilla does the same thing, then after I ride it no dragging
Weird
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adjust clutch, or let it warm up more before you shift gears.
does it do that after it has been rode for 20min or so.
I adjusted it a bit according to what ice racer said, and It stopped after was warmer, when it first starts I can't even put it in gear without it wanting to jump forward, don't stall out though...just kicks
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Only adjustment is in the two levers. be sure the arm is more than 90 deg to the clutch line. Or Sounds Like oil is too thick or just cold, or that the basket is grooved. File the basket grooves down don't bother replacing the clutch unless it s slipping or comes out in pieces, wont make a difference. New plates and Basket will if it s time.
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adjust clutch, or let it warm up more before you shift gears.
does it do that after it has been rode for 20min or so.
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w+ Mine is an 88 as well, found all my upgraded parts used on eBay.
Ya I've noticed a lot on there!
**update on the build**
So I ran a compression test, and she's mint! I spoke with the guy I bought it from and he didn't inform me the guy he got it from had just rebuilt it two months ago, motor wise. So that's a plus!
Do the clutches have adjustments on them ? Or should I just put new plates in. I put it in first and the bike jumps a tad but even with clutch fully engaged. Don't have any problems shifting but, think it might be time for a new one. Any thoughts?
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w+ Mine is an 88 as well, found all my upgraded parts used on eBay.
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The camber shims are availible in the store above for $50, and the bumpsteer mod just requires swapping the steering arm from 1 spindle to the other. It basically allows the tie rod to run almost parallel with the a-arms. There is a thread on the site and how to do it. Two cheap easy mods that will greatly increase handling.
Thanks for the suggestions :) it's my first wheeler upgrade so still a learning process lol
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The camber shims are availible in the store above for $50, and the bumpsteer mod just requires swapping the steering arm from 1 spindle to the other. It basically allows the tie rod to run almost parallel with the a-arms. There is a thread on the site and how to do it. Two cheap easy mods that will greatly increase handling.
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Stock suspension I was talking about. I have +2 a arms aftermarket swingarm. Aftermarket shock. Aftermarket axle.Handles wonderful now. But the steering mods like bumb steer and camber mod made a big difference. Also aftermarket shocks help to. Just getting everything tightened back up makes a huge difference. But your looking at a pretty penny for everything I mentioned.
Ya I'll prob just tighten everything up for now, I don't know how much riding ill do with it this year my busy season is summer/fall so. But next winter I plan on stripping it down and putting a few grand into it, see what I can come up with :)
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Stock suspension I was talking about. I have +2 a arms aftermarket swingarm. Aftermarket shock. Aftermarket axle.Handles wonderful now. But the steering mods like bumb steer and camber mod made a big difference. Also aftermarket shocks help to. Just getting everything tightened back up makes a huge difference. But your looking at a pretty penny for everything I mentioned.
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When I first got mine it would go up fine but coming down was a whole different story. Front shock bushing were shot. It would wabble all over.
Is that with a +2 on it I'm guessing? I plan on going through whole suspension system making sure everything is tight of course. Is it that much of a difference In handling that it would actually be miserable if I decided to trail ride here and there? Because it's mainly gonna be for pits
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When I first got mine it would go up fine but coming down was a whole different story. Front shock bushing were shot. It would wabble all over.
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trails
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Just for reference, Iceracer is the closest good builder to you. 2+ arm will help in sand pits, but handles a lot worse.
Handles worse as far as going up hills?? Or as in if I wanted to take it down a trail
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Just for reference, Iceracer is the closest good builder to you. 2+ arm will help in sand pits, but handles a lot worse.
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Where you ride at ? S~
I live in maine, ride pretty much any where in north east!
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Where you ride at ? S~
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Why do you want an extended swinger? I only run a stocker on my 87 250/500 hybrid on trails and a +2 at the dunes.
I got a lot of big hills around here lol. And frankly I like the look of em! I'm not gonna be doing much trail riding. I work a **** load in the summer so more of just a weekend pit toy
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Why do you want an extended swinger? I only run a stocker on my 87 250/500 hybrid on trails and a +2 at the dunes.
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One thing about swing arm, is it possible to cut it and stretch it and weld it back ? Or is that pretty much impossible lol
Yes, it can be done by a good welder. Ask El Diablo he has pics on the proper way to do it.
Cool thank you!
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One thing about swing arm, is it possible to cut it and stretch it and weld it back ? Or is that pretty much impossible lol
Yes, it can be done by a good welder. Ask El Diablo he has pics on the proper way to do it.
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Thanks for all advice everyone! I'm sure I will have more to come! Here is a couple pics, she had def been neglected but I'll bring her back to life :)
One thing about swing arm, is it possible to cut it and stretch it and weld it back ? Or is that pretty much impossible lol
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I would go with a 26 spline and LTZ400 4 bolt rear hubs, it will give you a lot more choices in wheels than the stock 5 bolt hubs. A 26 spline should probably be easier to find because they used that style much longer. Also a Zilla axle will NOT work.
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if he said hubs are welded to the axle that may mean they are rusted on, or someone actually welded them to it. if so you need to check on that.
in order to change brake rotor or sprocket or bearings in the carrier you need to get them off, left side is more important. thats the side that will
slide through the carrier to change bearings. nice score tho.
He wasn't kidding when he said they were welded, they really are lol, but I'm gonna replace the axel, hubs, rear brake cylinder, do the brakes/lines any way so don't really matter.
As far as axels go does it matter what I put in as far as a 24 or 26? And any recommendations on some good hubs fairly priced?
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You can get the dome cut and o ringed shouldn't be too bad on your wallet
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if he said hubs are welded to the axle that may mean they are rusted on, or someone actually welded them to it. if so you need to check on that.
in order to change brake rotor or sprocket or bearings in the carrier you need to get them off, left side is more important. thats the side that will
slide through the carrier to change bearings. nice score tho.
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Ya checkout the for sale section. Check your craigslist someone may be parting a LT out locally if not eBay always has them!
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Any idea where I can get a stock axle?
I'm sure you can find one here somewhere. Just post in the wanted section of the forum.
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DuraBlue is the common aftermarket axle for the LT. But with a stock front end I would just replace it with a stock axle.
We're here to help! (Y)
Any idea where I can get a stock axel?
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DuraBlue is the common aftermarket axle for the LT. But with a stock front end I would just replace it with a stock axle.
We're here to help! (Y)
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Keep us posted on your progress. We are here to help.
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w+
That's a steal for $150. What's wrong with the axle?
Thanks, I'm not sure to be honest with ya...ass end is loose. And his words were "the hubs are pretty much welded to the axel" not exactly sure what that means I'm gonna tear into it tomorrow look at the problems with it
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Are you happy with how it handles ? If not there are some fairly cheap mods to help fix that. Camber shims, flipping steering horns to help bring down bump steer, aftermarket axle, from time to time there are used front works shocks or yfz 450 front shocks.
Power department could be very simple things to start it off, make sure your airbox lid is off, better pipe, bigger carb, depending on how much money you wanna spend you could get it ported and head cut.
Lots of options you need to figure out what you would like to improve and how much you can spend. That's a HELLUVA deal for $150!! Your very lucky to get that!
Thanks :) I thought it was a steal. But as far as handling the front end seems pretty solid. I know the ass end is kinda sloppy, I'll prob replace rear axel shaft, new hubs, bearings etc. any good brands I should be keeping an eye out for? And I know the rear brake cylinder is seized so I'll be replacing that, prob just do brake lines while I'm at it. Don't think I want to do a full rebuild at the moment, maybe next winter when I have nothing else to do lol.
Power wise, ya I prob just gonna do the basic pipe, carb.
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w+
That's a steal for $150. What's wrong with the axle?
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Are you happy with how it handles ? If not there are some fairly cheap mods to help fix that. Camber shims, flipping steering horns to help bring down bump steer, aftermarket axle, from time to time there are used front works shocks or yfz 450 front shocks.
Power department could be very simple things to start it off, make sure your airbox lid is off, better pipe, bigger carb, depending on how much money you wanna spend you could get it ported and head cut.
Lots of options you need to figure out what you would like to improve and how much you can spend. That's a HELLUVA deal for $150!! Your very lucky to get that!
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First off just wanna say new here, and new to the suzuki world! I just snagged an 88 250r, running, drives. Have been through whole thing no cracks, couple minor fixes but only paid $150 , don't think the guy knew what he had.
But my main question is what quick smaller upgrades can I do to give it a bit more of an edge?
And he mentioned needing a new rear axel, should I replace the whole rear end? Or just axel/hubs.