Suzuki Quadracer HQ
LT250R Quadracer => LT250R - Engine => Topic started by: Derrik on October 11, 2012, 06:27:28 am
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yah i had a shitload of calcium buildup in my waterpump :-\
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Mix you antifreeze with dionized water and you will not have the problems again. Coolant you put in any engine should be mixed with dionized water. If not you will eventually get corrosion no mater what.
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well then i sould be alright,i went bawls deep into this one and replaced everything.thanks for all of your help i wouldnt be able to do this right without this site lol.....the learners curve....
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I generally put a dab of silicone on the washer to be sure it seals against the impeller face. and loctite the bolt.
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im surprised with as temperamental as everyone is claiming this seal to be,mine is original from92' and never leaked.hope i dont have a problem.
I do not think that the seals are temperamental.
Most guys replace the seal and it still leaks. Then they use the shotgun approach and replace everything the second time around. Using the shotgun approach, the impellor and the rubber backed washer gets replaced. It is the replacement of the impellor and rubber backed washer that usually solves the leak.
Like Carl said........ a grain of debris trapped between the carbon and ceramic faces of the seals will allow the seal to leak. Inspect the surfaces of the carbon and ceramic for cracks or a radial scratch. If the surfaces are smooth or have a scratch that goes in a circular path from a grain of debris, the seal is probably ok.
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Usually I find a piece of somthing that has worked its way between the ceramic seals.
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im surprised with as temperamental as everyone is claiming this seal to be,mine is original from92' and never leaked.hope i dont have a problem.
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I replaced just the seals on mine. Put it all back together and filled it up with fluids.
Still leaked - had to replace the pump and do it all over.
I would for sure plan on replacing everything.
The mechanical seals in the LTs are not usually the reason for the water pumps leaking out of the weep hole. 90% of the time the impellor has compressed and the shaft is protruding above the surface that the rubber faced washer is suppose to seal on. Replace the impellor or grind the end of the shaft so that it is a few thousands below the sealing surface
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you want a roll pin punch that will go in the hole, this way you have a chance at not ruining the impeller. Putting it in the hole also helps in the fact it won't slide off and ding the oring sealing surface.
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I replaced just the seals on mine. Put it all back together and filled it up with fluids.
Still leaked - had to replace the pump and do it all over.
I would for sure plan on replacing everything.
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lmoa yah thats exactly where im at!
i dont wanna accept the fact! hahahah.
iceracer when you say use a punch and a hammer,are youi meaning a punch that fits through the threaded bolt hole or find one that sits on top of it??
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Chances are after 20+ years most if not all of the water pump assembly will need replacement.
Mine did. I just didn't want to accept that fact. So I had to make TWO orders for parts. Your impeller shaft is gonna need replacement. Going in and not replacing that part? Be wise and take care of it once.
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if i can't get the impeller off, i heat it with a propane torch. ussually after a little heat it will pop up from the mechanical seal. then you can take it off without damaging it. then you can knock out the shaft.
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get a drift punch that will fit in the bolt hole and get the case squared up on a solid bench andI blocked so the bearing can come out. The impeller is going to be junk once removed more than likely. Carefully wail it with a good big hammer. it will come out. I have seen a lot of frozen ones like this, you can heat the impeller with a torch but that will be guaranteed to ruin it. just need a good hard hit and the shock to get it moving. a press could send stuff flying and the shock is what you need to get it started.
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its a 92'lt.
i tried to remove the water pump myself to replace the bearing and seals but i couldnt make it budge with a mallet on the bolt head,i was nervous to use a shop press on the bolt for fear of damaging the threads.
i took it to a shop yesterday and he took it in the back for 45min and came back telling me the risk for him to remove it was to high, apparently he tried a press on the bolt and had to stop cause he said he had to much pressure on it and the shaft didnt budge.
only thing i can think of now is to try to get a longer bolt that will bottom out in the shaft and still allow me to press on it without fear of damaging threads,if that doesnt work my next though was to apply heat to the impeller.
have any of you guys came across an impeller siezed this bad?? and how did you get it out?