Suzuki Quadracer HQ
LT250R Quadracer => LT250R - Engine => Topic started by: All American on September 11, 2013, 11:11:38 pm
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That idea was brought to you by a missouri backwoods redneck. Glad we could help ya lol D?
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Just looked at the pics again and putting a chrome Suzuki emblem off a car or samurai is genius !! Im sorry but I must steal that idea.. [|]
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Let me clarify, I bought an 88' and it came in a box of extra parts. Maybe it is for an 85'-86'
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It came off an 88' motor
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What year is that FTZ head for? Looks like 85 - 86 to me.
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Not a probem. Do you think it's usable? I don't want to sell something that's junk.
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By the way, all American, I think I'm gonna pass on that FTZ head. I might be taking a different direction with my motor. Just didn't want u to be hangin on to it for me
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I'm still learning guys. I totally respect all the builders and bikes I've seen in the short time I've been a member here. I guess I should listen a little more and talk a little less for a while. He's right. Talk to some of these builders. They are quadracer specialists. Im a member on here to help guys thru things I've been thru since putting together my 87/88 LT250R out of a couple old parts bikes I bought. Also I'm here to learn the tricks that the builders on here use, so that I know exactly what I want. That way I will have a blueprint for my local machine shop to go by. Basically I'll just be using them for their machines. And I want to have the knowledge and measuring tools to check the local shops work before I pay up!! Sure it'd be easier (and possibly more cost effective) tosend my motor to a builder listed on the site, but I gotta be right in the middle of my project the whole time... It's just the way I am. But I'm soaking up the info on this forum like a biscuit loves gravy!
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Agree 100 percent ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
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When it comes to an LT, any machine shop can do work on it. But not any machine shop can do it right. That's why we recommend the builders here on this forum. Any builder can put out a Yamaha, Honda, or Kawi, but there are little things that these guys here do that make all the difference in the world from you having a run of the mill bike that is still stuck in the 90's or an old bike that will embarrass any new machine.
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You might get lucky the last 2 projects they down were screwed up for me my lt 250 and my nephew blaster jug piston was bored to loose.
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Thanks for your service in Iraq. My buddy is building a banshee right now. Stroked and all kinds of stuff. He's a tOyota service tech and he is still having a local machine shop put his motor together. He said with all the money he has invested, he wants to make sure it's right. That's pretty smart IMO. I'd say you should find a good machine shop in your area and tell them everything you know and what u want to know and get them to give you a price.
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I had no idea. This **** had better be right, I'm a fully disabled vet of Iraq war, and if they don't do this right, I'll be at their business seeing them in person, and I'll get this resolved. That's bs
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When I was new to the quadracers I used them. The first time they bored my cylinder they did a good job .the second time they left my cylinder out of round. My piston broke and my cylinder was .50 over and they bored to 80 over. Instead of telling me their was aproblem. They just sent it back to me. I guess they was afraid I would have stuck them if they would have told me their was a problem. But anyway I ran that cylinder for a year almost and both side of transfer port still are cross honed and never clean up. Piston slap from the begin of the new bore. Then I paid for their port job one of the best in the nation he said it was. What a joke it was . So I will never use them again. I only use the main builders now. If something is wrong with my stuff I get that call and say what do you want to do about this Instead of getting back half ass junk.
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Basics of powder coating you need an electric oven that can up to about 500, powder coating gun like $120 from Eastwood and anything you coat must be blasted. (Like sand blasting bead blasting ect)
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It feels like a ding. It's not carbon build up. Is this something you can use?
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Hmm. Looks a little rough. Is that just carbon build up on the squish area to the right in that one pic, or is that a gouge? Does it feel smooth to the touch?
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Hope these help.
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If the land and the dome look good, I'll take it. I live in Ky. I'll buy it on Wednesday.
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I'd take 50 for it. Plus shipping, which couldn't be much.
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How much u want for that head? Im in the planning stages on an 88 motor I have on my workbench. I'm trying to blueprint out this motor according to the info in this book: http://www.datafan.com/Horsepower_Blog/gordon-jennings-two-stroke-tuners-handbook/
I have a couple hobby type machinist buddies with lathes and mills and whatnot. It's kinda an experiment. I'm gonna try to do some work on the sqish and chamber of my factory head, but itd be nice to have an extra. What do u want for it. I know they are a bit pricey when new...
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I'd imagine it would work, it was working this summer, when the owner took it to little Sahara and it blew head gasket out after just a couple hours. I don't trust it if he had problems and I liked the idea of a newly rebuilt motor so I coughed upas most 500 so far with more to go I'm afraid. I'm in it all the way now. My wife told me I have a 1,300.00 limit on parts. She's mistaken.
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When I get it off, I can get you good pictures, make me an offer. It's for sale.
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Hey by the way man, what's up with the FTZ head u got laying there on the concrete? Is it all boogered up or what? That thing looks like brand new! I'd just get a machine shop to clean up the faces on that jug and pull them old studs out, throw a piston and rings in there and try er out!
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Well man, it all depends on your riding style and how much cash you got. I have a lot of fun on my stock front shocks, but not too much fun cause they are really soft for a 200lb rider. Them works shocks are probably a HUGE improvement over the factory ones. If you ride super aggressive or like to jump any at all, I'd say throw a few hundred into getting works shocks rebuilt. Hell, throw them on there. Just cause they are dirty don't mean they are worn out. You might get lucky.
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I bet it was worth it. Both of my quads have factory shocks on them. All of them are worn out. This new one I just bought came with 2 works shocks for the front end, but as you can see in the picture above, they look a bit rusty maybe. Are they worth fixing in your opinion?
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I run Klotz super techniplate. My reason? I love the way it smells. Yep. 32:1 smells great, runs good, ain't fried a piston yet!!
As far as the shocks go, I had my rear shock rebuilt at GnR motorsports in Walton Ky. They did a great job. If you haven't done muchsuspension work, (like me) then find a shop that sets up motocross bikes. Get somebody that knows what they are doing. My single rear shock parts and labor was somewhere around $200. but I really don't remember the exact amount. I do know it was worth it.
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Yes, I bought it off summit. Was that a mistake? It cost me $474.00
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Did you get the cylinder from summit racing or where did you get it. On leak down watch videos of it on youtube
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Is it expensive to do yourself? How much does the tools cost?
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All I have to add that others haven't already is if you don't like the price or how the bike runs on castor 927 I highly recommend Amsoil Dominator. Its good stuff and half the price of 927 that's what I run in all my 2 strokes.
I like foam filters but I am in mud/dirt/dust not sand and I think that's where K&N are better? Not sure.
For bottom end oil I use ATF type F and others will suggest it too. You need to change it more frequently though.
Powder coating is WAY more durable and looks nicer but also cost more$$$.
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I'd like to have they frame and motor cleaned up and painted in the future. What kind of paint did these come with? Would powder coating look good?
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I was thinking about taking off the nerf bars that have been welded to the foot pedals. Then bolted on the front to the lower a arm rear mount. What do you guys think? Should they stay or should they go?
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The guy i bought the cyclinder off of told me that they check the deck to make sure it hasn't been shaved before. And since I'm installing a new 22cc pro design cool head, do I need to have somebody cut the squish? If so do I need to send them my whole motor and how much would that cost? How long would that take?
I'll buy the 927 oil, thanks for the heads up on that one.
If I run higher octane gas, will that lead to a longer lasting build, better performance without sacrificing durability?
I'll get up there and buy the thrust washers, how many do I need?
Thanks for the heads up on the 99 suzuki rm 250 wrist pin bearing. I'll get one ordered tonight.
What spark plug do I need to buy? How many will I probably need for jetting?
I'll order these afm gaskets also.
I'll buy the leak down tester from harbor freight down the street.
Should I buy the k&n oil filter or is a paper oil filter better?
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Afms are the way to go with gaskets. Most of us run them. If you use 93 pump, use ethanol treatment. It will prevent gumming of the carb and jets and i believe it may help with possible oil seperation at lower temps. I could be wrong on that, but i run ethanol treatment in all my carb'd engines.. From lawnmower to yfz 450. Got tired of cleaning corn film out of all my carbs.
927 is excellent oil. Getting squish cut can be done by any builder on here. When squish is done and head and cylinder are PROPERLY decked, you should have no problems blowing head gaskets on a 250.
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You can get the billet thrust washers from Mitch in the store at the top of the page. They go on the piston pin. The stock one's are stepped steel and like to break. It will typically cause a lot of engine damage. The aluminum one's don't do near as much damage. To run them you will need a 99 suzuki rm250 wrist pin bearing, it is narrower and works with the billet washers. Either a suzuki dealer or ebay can get them for cheap. Harbor freight has a cheap leakdown tester, get one. As for gas I would at least run premium. 100LL or race gas is a lot more consistent to jet. pump gas can contain up to 10% ethanol, but you don't know it might be 1% or 10%. I use Maxima 927 oil. Get a copy of the factory suzuki manuel it is helpful. Also consider having the squish cut properly on the head before you put it together. I like cometic gaskets, the cometic afm's are great base gaskets.
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What is a billet thrust washer? Do you have a number for them?
What tools do I need to do a leak down test? I have a harbor freight down the street.
Any tips for jetting? I've never done one. What jet size would be a good place to start? Should I clean the carbuerator before we start the engine? What octane of gas should I use in this?
I have an 86 model that runs a whole bunch better on racing fuel, but its more expensive. Is it better on the engine to use racing fuel? Or is 91 octane pump gas ok? What oil is a high quality oil?
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Is it summit racing on ebay. Break it in the same ratio as your going to run. Billet thrust washer and rm wrist pin bearing. Just make sure to put the piston arrow to the exhaust and the e on the head gasket on exhaust side and take a rag put the 2 stroke oil that your going to run and coat the cylinder and piston and rod bearing. Do a leak down test to make sure you have no leaks and if you pass time to start and check the jetting.
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How much would it cost to get those Works shocks redone? Who does that? Does anybody have any advice for installing a new remanufactured cylinder Wiseco piston, pin and bearings, new 22 cc pro design cool head, top end gasket set? Should I change the oil and filter before I install it? What oil should I use to break it in? Is there something I should do while I have the cyclinder off? I.e. water pump, power valve, do I need to purchase exhaust sealant? Any tips for building a factory spec, reliable, durable four wheeler? I plan on eventually going to the Little Sahara with it eventually, however here in missouri, I'll be driving on trails through the woods. I was was wanting to have a little extra low end and strong mid and high rpm range. The manufacturer of the jug, told me to break it with gas mixed at 24:1 for the five hour break in period. Afterward the break in period, he told me to mix at 30:1. The cylinder is being shipped tomorrow or Monday. About three days for shipping, I'm guessing ill be doing this by end of next week. What tools should I buy? Do I need a torque wrench? What spark plug do I need to buy? What's the gap? HELP!
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Misc.
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Oops forgot some more stuff that came with the bike.
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Here she is fellas.
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Not as much as you put in it to fix it
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I just bought an 88' LT 250R for $600. It came with an extra set of rims and 8 paddle-sand shark tires mounted. Head light was in a box of misselaneous extra parts. there was an extra set of works shocks that looked like they needed overhauled. Factory bumper, fmf gold pipe and muffler. k&n filter and precharger, air box, shock covers. the 4wheeler has great tires on it. low profile fenders in pretty good shape. the rear fenders have the recessed racing square things in them. The rear grab bar is toasted. The head gasket was blown, the seller told me that the head and cyclinder has been flattened by a local mechanic. Apparently he said they took off .01" off between the two and then after driving it a few times, the gasket blew. The top of the piston had a few dings in it. One of the studs that holds on the head was broken and had been "REPAIRED" before. So I decided to buy a remanufactured jug, with new piston, pin, pin bearings, rings, top end gasket kit, pro design 22cc cool head,(the salesman I talked to said the 22 cc dome was the closest to factory oem. And recommended it if I was using pump gas). The previous owner didn't think the four wheeler need the chain guide or buffer on the swing arm. Which resulted in chain gouges on the bottom of the swing arm. The swing arm bearings are out, but I just ordered a set for my old 86' LT250r, which I haven't installed yet. I don't know if they will work. The swing arm **** around the front loop that houses the swing arm bolts and bearings. Probably from driving it around with bad bearings, I'm assuming. The tail light is missing, and I couldn't find one on ebay that looked very nice. Most of the bearings and bushings and ball joints are worn. I'll get pictures up tomorrow so you guys can see it. I think its an 88' model, but am not for certain. The engine serial number starts with J109 115XXX. It has 6 intake bolts if that helps. Right now I'm in it for $1,300.00 with the prospect of spending 100's more on it with the wife already b&tch-n. lol I was thinking of selling it when I get everything fixed. What could I expect to get out of it once I get it in tip top shape?