Suzuki Quadracer HQ
LT500R Quadracer => LT500R - Engine => Topic started by: Buckeye513 on August 25, 2013, 02:53:28 pm
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Carb is bored to 41.5mm running open air 9" k&n with v2 reeds Q v1 pipe. Port work was done but its just a cosmetic touch up port because MHR is a POS. Head cut for proper squish and cut for race gas. Running Sunoco 112 mixed with amsoil 25:1.
Went with the fattest jets that Jerry recommended to start with, my thought was start as fat as I can that way I can jet down till I get it right. Jerry didn't work on my carb though it was bored by MHR and I didn't even measure if its really at 41.5mm.
Mike as soon as my shifter lever arrives I'm pull starting it. In the mean time I guess I'm gonna build a leak down tester. Unless someone would be willing to loan me theirs? Ill pay shipping both ways.
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Your entire carb set up and jetting sounds rich to me. What are you running engine package wise Derrick? I can't remember.
BMR - he is running a modified HPR carb I think. The jetting sounds right if Jerry has worked his carb over.
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Your entire carb set up and jetting sounds rich to me. What are you running engine package wise Derrick? I can't remember.
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I would skip the " starting process" and see it it will " run". If something is wrong and it wont run than you can kick it for ever and nothing.-Find out first which problem your chasing--starting technique vs something really wrong. As mentioned before hook a tow strap to it and tow it and drop the clutch in 3rd or 2nd gear and see if it eventually starts and runs. If that does not work you know its not your kicking/starting procedure and all the shim busting in the world would never get it going. Just a thought too----is the starter turning over fast enough? lol
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Trying to find out what causes it and how to reduce it or emliminate it! Thanks for any input!
Following the correct starting procedure:
http://www.suzukiquadracerhq.com/general-discussion/first-lt500r-hard-starting/msg24012/#msg24012
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I have a Q pipe I also don't have a filter on at the moment cause my airbox and airbox eliminator bracket are getting final fab and welding done to them.
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i had this problem with mine when i had the AAEN exhaust with stock porting.. i could only get it to start most the time by pull starting it. when i put my fmf back on, it would start easier and wouldn't kick back as much D?
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Always kick it over with riding boots on that way you won't be afraid to hurt your foot or shin.
Kick it like you want to tear the kicker off, little kicks will just flood it. You could leave the plug off for a day
It should help if its flooded.
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I dont know if the amt of failed kicks makes a difference or jot. Just a thought. I had a built up 250r with 235 lbs of compression and it took a while to learn how to start it. If i gave it any more than 1/4 throttle while kicking, it would kick back so bad it would sprain my ankle. It got worse if i had 7-8 failed kicks.
Eventually i learned to get the piston just below tdc and only blip the throttle a tiny bit and it fired in one kick every time with no kickback.
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Could be how many failed kicks is enough to start worrying about an issue? I've kicked it roughly 30-40 times the only times its sounded like it was going to fire it kicks back.
Could b bc its just a zilla motor -->
When the kicking gets rough, time to get a pull strap and save your shin.
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Dunno it sat in the shop for months ill yank it off and run air through it.
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silencer clear?
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Could be how many failed kicks is enough to start worrying about an issue? I've kicked it roughly 30-40 times the only times its sounded like it was going to fire it kicks back.
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Just put a feeler gauge between thw pickup coil and the raised part of the flywheel. Loosen the screws on the pickup coil, adjust, then tighten. Any chance the cylinder is loaded with fuel after xx amounts of failed kicks?
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Gonna have to phone a friend on all that technical stuff I'm no mechanic and checking or setting a pick up gap is a little above my head.
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nope. but you will need to pull it to move it. like it was said there is a raised mark on the.mounting boss closest to the crank balancer. there is a mark on the stator cover where it is slotted. try and line them up dead center. tighten the stator screws down and set your pickup gap to .018". should be good to go.
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K ill pull my stator cover do I need to pull my fly wheel to make sure those are lined up?
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should be a mark on the stator plate and one on the case. line those up.
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I have a 27.5 pilot jet and 600 main jet. When I pull my plug its not really wet. It was doing this before my rebuild. Can you advance the timing by messing with the flywheel/stator? If so what would I check for to make sure the timing isn't advanced? Thanks Chris!
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lean or timing advanced. make sure you have done the initial priming kicks choke on. than roll past tdc (1st bump) than kick it with all you got. no sally kicking either.
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Sorry no checks or cash in here! I'm talkin the other kind of kick back. Trying to find out what causes it and how to reduce it or emliminate it! Thanks for any input!