Suzuki Quadracer HQ
LT500R Quadracer => LT500R - Engine => Topic started by: Sledhead on May 23, 2013, 06:28:46 am
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Or do some cold bluing to it. That's what I'm thinking of for my Tri-Z
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I know it can get expensive but what about having the alum. chromed ??
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What about anodized aluminum
Has anyone had a motor anodized or know the cost of doing a motor? It's an eletric and chemical process, no heating?
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Sand will turn a polished wheel into the stock look in a few hrs of riding!! Like sand blasting
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You're not needing to repolish if your riding sand only, right?
Sand is the worst, it's constantly getting sand blasted and ruining the finish.
like Scott on Counts Customs said last night to the seller who said he had time in to his bike.
"That's not time...that's therapy"..
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"Your not needing to repolish if your riding sand only, right?"
right. the sand will keep the polished parts polished ::)
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You're not needing to repolish if your riding sand only, right?
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I does give me a reason to hide in the garage from the wife from time to time though!
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One of my many punishments as a kid was to polish all the aluminum and chrome on my dad's jet boat. That's probably one of the reasons I don't care for chrome or polished aluminum. Bead blast and spend your time riding instead of polishing.
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i only polish my side covers and its an after every ride polish if you want it to look good like the looks dont like the maintenance
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yea guys, never clear polished parts. It yellows from fuel and still dulls and you have to removed the clear to re-polish it.
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What about anodized aluminum
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All of these guys have a good point, it's hard to do and the upkeep is a biotch.
he best set up I've seen is a glass bead blast, no paint to screw up and no polish to up keep just wipe it down or scrub it up.
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You can clear coat it Dez but the clear coat makes it look yellow and dull.
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You couldn't clear coat the polished parts? Clear powder coat?
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Cases are easy. nothing sucks worst then cylinder. just the upkeep of a polished motor is terrible. ive thought many times about painting mine.
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Another thing the finer you sand the better the end result try to keep your sanding one directional swirls and multiple directions increase the scratches and makes the polishing take longer and not turn out as good. For an engine I'd say a good sand down with 220 then 400 should be fine that's all I did on my swinger.
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I bought a $14 aluminum polishing kit from harbor freight it comes with two cutting/polishing compounds and a fine polish/shine compound and an assortment of different polishing heads for use on a drill. If you have a bench grinder they also sell polishing wheels at harbor freight for like $5 each get a wheel for each compound don't mix compounds on your heads or wheels. Do the big spots on the bench grinder and the tight spots with a drill and polishing heads. Start by sanding the aluminum with 220 or 400 grit I do a round of each then a round of 600 grit or higher befor you start polishing with the black or cutting compound. Here's my stock swinger I literally only spent maybe a total of 3 hours stripping the oem coating sanding and polishing. All the polishing was done on a bench grinder/wheel.
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Anyone have any tips on polishing an entire motor after paint has been removed? What types of polish, what wheels or pads work best for getting into tight corners? I sent the motor to HPR where they are currently working on it. I ultimately wanted to have it powder coated but jerry advised against it due to the process of heating, and also leaving percision parts in the hands of those who don't know the care that needs to be taken. My next option was to have it professional polished and again you spend a lot of money to build the motor and hand it over to someone that doesn't take the care that's needed. He hasn't had good luck with this work in the past. I was thinking about attempting to polish it my self but don't know if I would be getting into a huge mess. Any help would be appreciated.