Suzuki Quadracer HQ
LT500R Quadracer => LT500 - General Discussion => Topic started by: Dezsled on May 22, 2013, 06:31:24 pm
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http://okledlightbars.webs.com/apps/webstore/products/show/3462190
I'm wondering if this 6" LED pulling 36w would work on my stock LT500 (no rewound stator)??
Found this other option which includes a handlebar bracket but its a lot more $$
http://www.lsracing.com/suzuki-lt250-lt500-rigid-led-atv-head-light-kit.573.24.atv-utv-racing
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That is the stock taillight.
Yeah laid off the beer tonite.....
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are you running an LED rear light? Looks good but, yeah, if you could minus a beer or two that would be great!
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Well unfortunately after afew to many beers my attempts to get a decent in focus picture failed, my camera man needs glasses and this was the only pic that was worth a doo doo..
I'll try again tonite minus the beer *hiccup*
That tall seat foam is in reality a booster seat!
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j300/Dezsled/6eb1a48fd3712095f40a559f0c633ca3.jpg)
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Sounds good Dez! As far as I know my electrical is still very operational. Ive been looking at all kinds of lights. The basis is all they are all the same. I saw a youtube clip of a Rigid 10" being installed on a QR250 but they used a battery.
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The a really thick seat foam pad. Just noticed it.
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This light in theory works the same right?
http://okledlightbars.webs.com/apps/webstore/products/show/3462190
Dez... How many feet would you guess that light shines? (original light the threads about)
Yes that should work no prob if all the electrical system on your qr is operational. The light your looking at should kick a$$ on the light I was testing with.
I'll get a pic of the light output distance wise... Just gotta wait for it to get dark in 11 hours (Y)
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This light in theory works the same right?
http://okledlightbars.webs.com/apps/webstore/products/show/3462190
Dez... How many feet would you guess that light shines? (original light the threads about)
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The light will get a thorough test now that its desert season!
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j300/Dezsled/eac3cf13fbc6b2ad7dfde6ce8cadb9f9.jpg)
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j300/Dezsled/4f51a2ff2fc619f4356d34b25375efd5.jpg)
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hey Dez, how is the light holding up?? Thanks for the info!!!
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So maybe test the voltage regulator first BEFORE installing the light ?
Hard to tell on the dying ones. They can test in spec (and did many times). I must of redid my grounds 1000s times thinking that had to be the problem.
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Simple solution...if the OEM light isn't blowing every time you drive, your voltage regulator is probably fine.
You can always rev it up with a multimeter hooked up to the lighting circuit to test.
Just remember that these LED's aren't cheap RadioShack lights...they won't blow at 18V, they won't even blow at 24V.
They're rated up to 32V!
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So maybe test the voltage regulator first BEFORE installing the light ?
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But I still need a voltage regulator, is that right?
Yes sir!
not sure what LED's like the one ChrisG sells, but i have quite the collection of fried cheap LEDs from local hardware stores that my dying VR zapped because it was allowing 18v. They'd last for ever as long as i didnt go WFO.
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You can use the stock vr, that's what I'm running a rs 130w stator. Works fine so far, but I haven't torture tested it yet.k
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But I still need a voltage regulator, is that right?
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Nope.
I ran a halogen light for several years without any resistor.
The LED driver has its own power management, and it can work with any input voltage...amperage isn't a factor because it will only draw what it needs to run itself.
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Yeah, it'll work like that, just won't be at 100% watt output going from the stator to the light.
For that you'll need to bypass the resistor in the switch.
Not really a problem if you're not asking 100% from the lighting system!
If I bypass the resistor and wire it directly won't I run the risk of ruining the light?
I run the RS 130W coils.
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Yeah, it'll work like that, just won't be at 100% watt output going from the stator to the light.
For that you'll need to bypass the resistor in the switch.
Not really a problem if you're not asking 100% from the lighting system!
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TX,
If I red your post correctly, if I rowed it directly in to the high beam wire it should work fine, right?
Thanks
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So what's the verdict?
This light works on a straight LT500 electrical system?
No other BS than plug it/wire it in to the existing system and it works?
I assume there is no Hi/Lo just wore it straight in to the high lead wire?
Thanks
The LED won't dim just by supplying less electricity to it (the low beam had a bigger resistor for that purpose), because the driver is set at a certain output to power the LED's.
It'll take a large voltage input range and modify it so the LED always has the same power going to it.
If you give it half the power, it'll still put out the same amount of light, assuming it's not below operating threshold...if it gets past that point it just shuts itself off.
The only way you can dim an LED is by changing the settings on the driver, most flashlights have a multi-click function that changes the driver's output to dim the light.
I doubt these light bars have an adjustable driver, but if a guy with a little IC knowledge could probably figure out a way to splice in a potentiometer to the driver and give it a near infinite adjustability.
The pot could be mounted on the handlebars, on the light itself, or even on the plastics.
My suggestion is to mount a separate switch and bypass the high/low beam switch (the high beam actually has a small resistor inline, so you're losing a few watts there), or you can get rid of the resistors and wire it straight to the LED to keep the OEM switch installed.
Nothing else is needed for the light!
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I'm working on the brackets now.... +k2
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Dez--how much to have you make me one of those light mounts. I have aftermarket stem so your mounting location/style is perfect. Id be interested in some mounts to the top shock if you felt so inclines to apply your tallents at making those. mike
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Yes it was plug & play with the stock electrical system. I didn't need the typanium voltage regulator, stock worked fine. From what I was told I have a rewound stator, so ymmv
Now I gotta try one of those higher output lights!
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So what's the verdict?
This light works on a straight LT500 electrical system?
No other BS than plug it/wire it in to the existing system and it works?
I assume there is no Hi/Lo just wore it straight in to the high lead wire?
Thanks
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And polishable materials! I'm addicted to polish if you haven't noticed by my build! Lol
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Yeah same design , lighter materials
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That mount looks exceptional Dez! It mounts to the radiator/steering stem mount correct?
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Had a go with aluminum..... Yeah some of the welds look like crap but it won't fall apart
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j300/Dezsled/21c864a1b2ccee0437fbb927fbdde306.jpg)
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Can't find Mitch ..
So I made some template pattern pieces, tomorrow I can get some 1/8" steel plate to make afew... All I had left was 3/16" and that's to thick &heavy
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j300/Dezsled/64eeab12d6d1e2f3f4d61bcc373bce11.jpg)
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Well who won or are you gonna do what you should do and keep the light Dez?
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Lemme see what I can do...
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my pick is 15. Keep the light that was part of the origional deal as I proposed it,....now that light bracket, its another thing. NICE. That is a beautiful work of art and I want me one, So if I win i will happilly accept that if I win but you keep the light unless you don't want it. How much to have you make me one of those brackets, I am very interested. I want to mount 6/10 watt cree bulbs. Probably about a 10 " bar.
Keep testing these lights. go find an excuse to get out and have some fun, I think bye two weeks we should know if its going to work......now about that bracket . :)
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My fingers are crossed its going to work. Mitch as you look into making brackets I want something that will mount to an aftermarket anti vibe stem and mount a 10" light barin front of the handle bars--down low closer to the hood--not sticking way up above the bars. Than I want some mounts that will attach to the top of each front shock mount. There I want a smallet 10 watt bulb.
Now a question of beam patern. which would be better option:
A) A 60 watt handlebar mount light in a tight spot pattern with two 10 watt wide beam lights mounted to the front shocks? or.....
B) Just the opposit with the 60 watt wide beams turning with the handle bars and the two 10 watt spot beams fixed on the shocks.
I would go with A... Reason being your pencil beam on the bars you can control. The wide flood beams will help with periferal vision. Imho.
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Ok Dez....I choose you, Pikachu!
6.0221412927
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I'd like to see one of you guys get it, it will motivate me to make something else .
I always wanted to be a pattern maker.
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Tex I agree with you Dez should keep it unless he doesn't want it in which case Mitch just pick 28 and make my summer! Lol
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Wait wait wait
What if Mitch reads your number...he can decide which number to pick and therefore which person gets it.
I think Dez should just hang on to it, easier that way, and I'll bet he paid for the majority of the light after shipping and taxes figured in anyway.
It was worth my share just to see if it worked.
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Dez that looks awesome man and the agreement was whoever the guinea pig was got to keep the light. But if you insist I'll go with 28 for my age hope I'm lucky I'd love to have that set up.
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Thanks for the complements. Since this was a group effort I wanted to make a decent bracket to mount the light to.. +k2
Now Mitch pic a number between 1 & 50. The three others who helped pay for the light pick a number between 1 & 50. Post your number here. Whoever is closest I will send the light &mount to. You pay for shipping and its yours!
I enjoyed making this happen. Thanks for the opportunity (Y) (Y) (Y)
I didn't get to thoroughly test this light, there was someflickering. My neighbors shut their windows when I started the toys up this evening so I'm sure that they aren't happy... But it's a holiday weekend eff em!
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Dude, that's awesome!
Not nearly as bright as the HID's, but for 16W I think it held its own :)
So no flickering or dimming, no overheating, or any other funny business like that?
I think a few hours run time should be adequate for a recommendation, what do you think?
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Ok... I waited for darkness to take some pics.
Heres is the led, it didnt matter what the rpms were or which position the light switch was in hi or low. Looks pretty good...
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j300/Dezsled/4d19b9e3d79c82c538f769fe6bee77de.jpg)
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j300/Dezsled/eac3cf13fbc6b2ad7dfde6ce8cadb9f9.jpg)
And here's the husky w/ the dual HID soltec lights, and the led lights side by side ...
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j300/Dezsled/49dfe59f3639e061550c41eea228697a.jpg)
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j300/Dezsled/2dc884316d70c163acf56f15d024880d.jpg)
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Kennerz, it was about the cheapest light for sale that would still give us a good indication of whether it would work on AC or not.
Wouldn't want to fry a $200 light just to see if the LED and driver will handle AC.
Something like this one would probably be more than adequate:
http://okledlightbars.webs.com/apps/webstore/products/show/3800439 (http://okledlightbars.webs.com/apps/webstore/products/show/3800439)
Let's see...60Wx2 +10W tail light = 130W Ricky Stator coils!
No watts wasted ;D ;D
12,000 lumens and a bright LED tail light
Oh, and Dez...that bracket look SWEET.
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Man nice new freshy tires. Aint nothing like it. Nice ride.
+k2
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Thanks man... It's taken some time to get to this point. But it's been worth the effort!
Now to get the lighting pics... (Y)
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In my driveway it worked fine revving it up, I took it up & down the street once and then the cops drove past so one of my neighbors musta called. Ill run it tonite and take pics of it against the dual HID set up for comparison.
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Awesome Dez! Your bike looks sick man! I wish I could afford a HPR in my budget right now. That bracket is nice man how did the light perform?
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Alright I finally got to test it, but it was during the daytime so no pics just yet of it in operation.
Here's what I started with lol... I wanted it mounted low as possible
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j300/Dezsled/440db5580e6da172340063443ec5a1b4.jpg)
First fitment mock up, needed to enlarge the hole for the cables
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j300/Dezsled/625a2d4279441f1d05c48c852df9a086.jpg)
Here's a fitment check
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j300/Dezsled/953ba0ff46220a673a50e60da6165ff7.jpg)
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j300/Dezsled/7c44c6ed0acb3a8cfc3a4f5ed13cf29a.jpg)
And the almost finished bracket & light. Still needs to be painted. The primer that's on there acted like it never dried :( that's why it looks so f*cked up. I wired the light to the wiring under the tank. There was a white and yellow power + wire with a female spade connector, hooked it up with the red wire off the light. The black wire off the light hooked into the black w/ white tracer= ground under the tank. Ultra simple.
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j300/Dezsled/a7b8c9d0bea399f726976a3ba878465e.jpg)
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j300/Dezsled/302f47bcd49b1819099a8b4335853f1c.jpg)
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j300/Dezsled/2e7918bfe466559c93e399ec0bbc197e.jpg)
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My fingers are crossed its going to work. Mitch as you look into making brackets I want something that will mount to an aftermarket anti vibe stem and mount a 10" light barin front of the handle bars--down low closer to the hood--not sticking way up above the bars. Than I want some mounts that will attach to the top of each front shock mount. There I want a smallet 10 watt bulb.
Now a question of beam patern. which would be better option:
A) A 60 watt handlebar mount light in a tight spot pattern with two 10 watt wide beam lights mounted to the front shocks? or.....
B) Just the opposit with the 60 watt wide beams turning with the handle bars and the two 10 watt spot beams fixed on the shocks.
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Yeah... Your right buck, I should be trying it on a stock electrical system. Ok I'm going to work on it...
My stator appears to be rewound. I never checked the lights when I bought the Zilla so ill hook up a halogen to see if the oem vr is doing its job.
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j300/Dezsled/photo77.jpg)
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Does the zilla have a voltage regulator oem? How much was the regulator? Dez I thought we were just testing this on the existing zilla power supply like WTK said above.
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I had to ordered a voltage regulator. Couldn't find the one in the garage.
I will try the light tonite on my husky, yes I know that's not how it's going to be wired in on the Zilla but while I'm waiting for the right part ill get some pics at night.
There were some decent brackets in that link Mitch, it's the cables that I'm making the bracket work around while turning....
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We will make em work, nothing a rectifier and duct tape and lithium battery cant fix!!!
But we don't WANT to use a rectifier or duct tape or lithium batteries, we want an affordable light that will work without any of that crap.
(http://stream1.gifsoup.com/view3/1199947/picard-s-double-facepalm-o.gif)
That's what the whole experiment is about.
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We will make em work, nothing a rectifier and duct tape and lithium battery cant fix!!!
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Making brackets? It hasn't even been tested to make sure it will work and last... Pump the brakes there Mitch.
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Mike here is a link to some brackets I think we can make some and sell them in the store with ChrisG lights
https://www.google.com/search?q=quad+handlebar+lighting+bracket&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=scKfUb3QEoKS9gTj-YC4Bw&ved=0CC4QsAQ&biw=1120&bih=488
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Good idea, ill hook it up to my huskys electrical system to test, run it up against the 8" soltec hids.
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So if a led taillight will work on a zilla a led flood should also?
That's the idea.
Some LED driving lights are marketed to work on AC lighting systems, just want to make sure that ChrisG's will too.
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DEZSLED- Hook that light up to your car or car battery first and see what kind of light it puts out under normal DC power. Than hook it up to your zilla and comp it on AC--and run the S*^# out of it and see how it holds up. I would think if Lazerstar says theirs work on AC that any led would but......./.. thus the purpose of the test. I want about 7000 lumens of light. I think that would be sufficient :)
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i put a led light on my 250 and also have a pair of optronics led tailights on mine. the headlight was installed using the factory wiring. it worked just not as well as it does on dc power. here is the link to the light i used. i only tried it because i got it for free. its rated for up to 48 volts.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/JW-SPEAKER-SERIES-700-LED-3x5-oval-worklamp-1703501-/230614944752
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So if a led taillight will work on a zilla a led flood should also?
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18V should be fine for this LED, it's rated up to 32V.
Keep it under that and you shouldn't have problems.
One way to test is by hooking up a small light to the system, like a brake light (without the LED installed), turn the light on, and check voltage.
The regulator should be holding at 12V, but as they wear out the voltage gets higher and higher.
Another thing to consider is that the VR is basically creating a path to ground and bleeding off excess electricity (putting a load on the system) until the voltage drops to acceptable parameters.
It's the same as adding a light to the system (a light goes straight to ground too), so if you test the system out without a light burning, you're putting 100% of that load into the VR.
It wasn't designed to run without a light for any length of time, so if you check without a light your voltage will probably read high because you're overtaxing the VR.
The VR only works when you flip the light switch, so if you're not using the lights, it's not doing anything.
Leaving the light switch on when your bulb is burned out can cause the VR to fail.
Odds are, if your system wasn't blowing headlight bulbs left and right, your regulator is working as it should.
Q2W...the whole point to this experiment is to see if ChrisG's LED lights can run on an LT's AC electricity.
Running a rectifier is something we don't want, as there are some lights out now that are supposed to handle a quad's AC lighting system.
Problem is, they're at least twice the cost...so if these LED's will work it'll save everyone a lot of money by not having to rectify the system or buy expensive LED's.
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Thanks for the wiring info wtk, it's been awhile since wiring in my trx250r lights.
Hmmmm... Good point Q2W, I have a typanium vr I could install just in case. I hope I can find it..
Ill be working on it after lunch
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Hey Dez, have you tested your volt reg? When i tested mine, it was still allowing up to 18 volts which would fry every LED light i threw at it. Only would get about 10 minutes of working time depending on how hard i was riding.
I know the regulator was somewhat working because I tested a friend of mines system and it was reading over 100v. We replaced the regulator and he was getting in the neighborhood of 14.
That light looks expensive so i'd be really careful. Maybe convert to DC? Ricky stator will build you a rectifier or i bet you can use the lt80's.
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Dez, the wire coming from the stator should be yellow with red tracer, and the wire that goes from the switch to the lights is gray (assuming it's still stock).
You need to keep the voltage regulator tied into the circuit.
What you'll want to do is take the Y/R wire and rig up a switch inline to the hot wire (red, white?) on the LED's.
(Y/R wire - switch - LED hot wire) No ground or additional wires, just a straight shot from the stator, through the switch, to the LED.
Depending on what type of switch you have, you could probably hook the LED hot wire directly to the switch's terminal end.
Splice into the LED's hot wire (or use the switch's terminal end if it has one) to the voltage regulator, after the switch.
(Y/R wire - switch - voltage regulator+LED hot wire)
The wire for the voltage regulator was originally gray.
Then, take the LED's ground wire (black?) and hook it up anywhere to the frame that has a ground.
So the basic path is going to be from the stator to the switch, then it'll split between the voltage regulator and LED, and past the LED the ground wire should be hooked up to the frame.
That should be all that you need to run the LED!
Quadman...the stock stator (for both the 250 and 500) puts out somewhere around 80W, it's generally accepted that 75W is a safe limit.
Can't recall how many watts the tail light draws, but newer LED tail lights are 5W or so.
You can get new lighting coils from Ricky Stator that are wound for 130W.
Could you imagine the kind of light 125W worth of LED's would throw?
CRAZY!
It's not difficult to replace coils, and they're only $40 (pretty cheap compared to those LED's).
http://www.rickystator.com/catalog/suzuki-lt500r-watt-lighting-coils-p-243.html (http://www.rickystator.com/catalog/suzuki-lt500r-watt-lighting-coils-p-243.html)
Some guys are hesitant to buy stuff from Ricky Stator, but that was due to a mix up with another company that had a nearly identical name selling Chinese junk.
They were failing and everyone was blaming Ricky Stator for it (even though they weren't from Ricky Stator).
I think that company was called Rick's Motorsports Electrics, and via forum chat it was shortened to Rick's stators, and then someone thought "Oh, he must be talking about Ricky Stator's stuff".
I can't remember for sure how it all got started, but that's what it amounted to.
Nobody I know of that runs Ricky Stator stuff has ever complained about quality or reliability...I've even got one on my wife's blaster.
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No idea.. My stator looked to be rewound
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Thanks. That looks easy enough. Any idea how many watts stock system puts out.
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When I got my Zilla it had piaas on the front shock upper mounts...
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j300/Dezsled/photo8.jpg)
Here are the lights w/ the brackets
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j300/Dezsled/photo14.jpg)
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How many watts do we have to work with on a stock zilla. How many watts does the tail light use--I assume switching to led tail light might net a few more. I would like to mount a 10" 60 watt flood bar up between the bars and if I can figure out how to make a mount to mount two 10 watt spots to the top front shock towers. Can we get 80 watts from our zillas if we use led tail light?
Have any of you ever fabricated a bracket or way to mount lights to top of front shocks?
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Hey I'm open to suggestions..
Good point cliff, nothing like wasting time on mounts that don't work!
So i was going to wire in the light
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Alright the first mount has some cable interference issues, so I chucked it.
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j300/Dezsled/89662bc2bdb2cb9f6bb3f7a2f7c648bc.jpg)
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j300/Dezsled/a06ee0654748818c26826c347010a8f0.jpg)
So Im going to use the upper radiator mount, I cut off the wire retainer. I'm going to make some pieces to allow the cables to float freely around the mount. I'm working on it ...
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j300/Dezsled/180a0fb90d5d7f52618dbf7b6101a251.jpg)
What colors are the power wire off the stator for lights?
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if you want to be so bossy cliff. you should of bought one!
Just trying to save him some work if it burns up is all.
...and what are you on about anyway?
Several of us actually did chip in on that light, including me.
(http://media.urbandictionary.com/image/page/asplode-23972.jpg)
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if you want to be so bossy cliff. you should of bought one!
(https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRBzZhwCZeAAzypka7-Pbs4m10yKXj9Qv8_NFFJL5KoovVbg6eddZidtw)
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This is the light on ChrisG's site:
http://okledlightbars.webs.com/apps/webstore/products/show/3445191 (http://okledlightbars.webs.com/apps/webstore/products/show/3445191)
It's a 1650 lumen 16W.
Think I'd test the light out and make sure it won't asplode before I went through the trouble of making a bracket for it LOL
Pics and a review Dez!
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You're all over it Dez I love it man!
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The packaging label said 16w 8 degree... I ordered a spot beam.
The light is fairly substantial, weighing in about a pound. Stout fins are heat sinks I imagine. I have an aluminum bracket I'm making now to fit it to the steering stem under the bar mounts. Hopefully I can post up the bracket after dinner.... +k2
No idea of the lumens... D?
Dinner time!
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Boy that was fast order and ship. Is that a spot or flood, how many watts and lumens? Thanks for testing this for us.
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Awesome Dez!!! Excited to see if it works!! Thanks for being the guinea pig. +k2 +k2 (Y)
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The led light showed up today
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j300/Dezsled/fd21abe9141c5e63dba6c58ec2ef8413.jpg)
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j300/Dezsled/1de40468aa73dbd54079f0ae5d755a5c.jpg)
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j300/Dezsled/0cda8ddcf584245d554118d88e0c8a8e.jpg)
I couldn't find the one thread... So started one