Suzuki Quadracer HQ
LT250R Quadracer => LT250R - Engine => Topic started by: Dwilkins126 on March 08, 2013, 05:40:57 pm
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All American, me and my dad have been running MC-1 at 50:1 in 85&86 motors for five years now and have never had a single problem. I don't know if it is the oil and mix ratio or the fact those motors just won't die. They all have CT racing porting, FMF gold series pipes and smooth bored carbs to (Well I forgot what size). They have all ran extremely well with amazing longevity.
In my 92 I run H1-R at 50:1 but am going to 32:1 this summer.
Off topic I also run SI-7 in my 72 gt750 and would recommend it in any application that uses oil injection.
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blendzall is made like 10 min from where i live. great product
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Just curious about that. Thanks guys
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MC-1 is a name from the past just like Blendzall.
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I have used yamalube at 32:1 for a long time now and have had no issues with oil related failure. There are a lot of good oils out there and I have read good things about h1r. 927 was the first premix I ever used and never had any issues with it but I heard it didn't do well in cold weather so I switched amsoil and after a short run on that I have stayed with the yamalube and been very happy with it although the castor smelled way better.
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Does anybody have any experience with Bel-Ray synthetic oil? I'm using the MC-1, or the H1-R, whichever one is available locally. And since mine is an 86' with NO power valve, should I switch to the maxima 927 ? I was mixing at 50:1 but now I'm going to try it at 35:1.
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I hammer on it from the start on break in.
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i run 927 and c-12 32:1 mixture in ALMOST everything. CR, LT Blaster
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I always run AmSoil Dominator Racing 2 stroke oil in the fuel.
If it's winter (35-55 degrees) I run 40:1
If it's spring/fall (55-75 degrees) I run 35:1
If it's summer (75-95 degrees) I run 30:1
I do this because I don't like tearing my carb apart to cahnge the main jet or fooling with the air screw.
Another option is to jet your carb during the spring/fall on a 65 degree day at a 35:1 pre-mix with a vented air box lid, the run a closed lid during the winter and no lid during the summer and always run the same 35:1 mix.
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is the theory that is best to break-in with mineral oil tested ?
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I plan to ride it mostly in the dunes so a lot more wide open throttle riding. I considered Lucas Oil Semi-synthetic pre-mix oil but I will probably go with the Maxima like most have suggested plus it advertises it keeps the powervalve functioning.
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NEVER change premix ratio for break in. If you go from 32 to 20:1 you are taking fuel away and leaning the AF ratio. If you want to you can turn the pilot in so it won't idle and spits oil out the tail pipe, but you will need to repack the silencer after that mess. If you were jetted correctly, richen the air screw So it will just idle a d let it run until you feel heat in the cylinder. Do this 2-3 times progressively warmer. Then do a couple times blipping the throttle and get the engine up to operating temp. After that ride it constantly varying the throttle a couple times. What your doing is lapping the rings for a good seal on the first couple cycles, excessive oil will not help. You need enough to lubricate. The next set of heat cycles is expanding and contracting the piston, it will shrink slightly after its been run long enough. Too hard too fast will cause excessive wear on the piston and could give a poor ring seal if there is any blow by before the rings fully seat.
The harder you push your engine and the longer you tend to hold it at WOT determines the amount of oil you should be premixing. 500s 20-32:1 and 250s usually 32-40:1 with castor oils. I like 24 in the 500 and 32 in the 250.
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I have always run my zilla with maxima 927 mixed at 32:1 until winter then I run maxima super M 32:1 as the 927 castor oil with race gas does not mix well at colder temperatures. This is per the instructions of my builder and at the advice of countless dealers. Some people will run 20:1 if they are just hammering it all the time wide open at dunes non stop. It will smoke a lot more at this mixture. I do not change back and forth between 32:1 and 20:1 because it requires rejetting. I would pick a fuel/oil mixture --tune to it--stick with it. just me..
I have never run more oil during break in but I will ALWAYS run it richer through jetting. I do the heat cycles, but I usually go two steps richer on the main and two clip positions richer on the needle. I will [play with the pilot or air screw a little to richen it up a tad as well. A little more oil certianly wouldnt hurt during break in.
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Question One: What pre-mix ratio do you run and why? I have been getting different feedback from the Suzuki shop and other's saying 20:1 is not necessary due to advances in oil compared to when the bike was new and 32:1 is sufficient. Also, does anyone use a full synthetic or semi-synthetic pre-mix oil or just castor types?
Question Two: I'm looking for input on a break in procedure. I've done some research and found that most say a heat cycle type break in is best with progressive throttling & load on each cycle (http://www.off-road.com/atv/tech/two-stroke-engine-break-in-19350.html (http://www.off-road.com/atv/tech/two-stroke-engine-break-in-19350.html) - http://www.duncanracing.com/TechCenter/2stkenginebreakin.pdf (http://www.duncanracing.com/TechCenter/2stkenginebreakin.pdf)). I understand there are several ways to do this so I am simply asking for ideas with reasons, references and/or experience included please.