Suzuki Quadracer HQ
Suzuki Quadracer HQ Discussion => Suzuki Quadracer HQ - General Discussion => Topic started by: QuadMan8 on January 25, 2013, 08:52:02 pm
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Cool thread with cool mods and ideas. Good job. The kind of stuff we can benefit from. Thanks.
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Bump
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Supposedley Tudors has some small reed v2's still in stock. as well as M/T.
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I have a bunch of 200 tpi silk screen. Its going to be the filter screen. Traditional. The velocity stack on MY bike atleast is getting shielded by the liscence plate holder. STOCK SETUP no need for anything else at all. :) Im out of blue paint that's all.
The bike is finished really as far as im concerned and im in love/ im waiting for paint and the licsense plate holder that's it. Whole Bike is finished except the CCP Steering Damper adaptor.....and engine. A few things here and there. Need a Vforce 3 and clutch kit still. Lots in boxes waiting to go on the front end.....
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Something else to think about, an outerwear for the filter could only be used if the filter was turned around, unless you cut down something to fit over the velocity stack.
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One of the hits I got off google said that it's not recommended because the mesh expands in that flow direction, while in a normal configuration it compresses the mesh, allowing it to filter smaller particles.
google is wrong. Google is correct when looking at foam filters. Concerning foam filters, I agree with google 100 percent.
Please allow me think out loud about googles answer. Seems ok to me for an hour. Then I think the following.
- A "stretched" squared area> in or out, is the same.
-The stretch is the same when lookin at the outside entire filter, and when looking at the folds that comprise it. There for Area is the same, filter is the same.
I repeat the mesh is going to stretch in or out like stated by google but the stretch is the same distance so filter area is the same.
-the folds of the mesh when looked at individually> it would not matter wich way the mesh bows . in or out the bow will be the same.IE The specific dimensions of the mesh will be the same in or out. The filter area does not change only is the orientation of the bow of the mesh changes. Does not affect filter area. Area will be the same in or out when looking at the mesh folds themselves.
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Foam filters blow up and stretch, to open orfices like stated by google.
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I see no reason it wont fit the years that have a 4 inch intake boot/airbox hole size.....Atv's 3 wheelers etc. just not dirtbikes>no room for it.
Westtex your correct about the placement of the filter itself im sure. That all sounds like great info. The 2 ends are the same size......
The mount im working on, goes to the frame tabs on the 91-92 under the seat.
I currently cannot know if the frame tabs are similar.........The mount is specific to the 91-92 but the airbox could fit anything.
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The problem I see is that the air filter is mounted in a reverse flow configuration, and from the little information I could find about it using the filter in this direction isn't recommended.
For one, it makes it harder to clean (think of all the debris and bugs that'll get in there you'll have to somehow get back out).
For another, the oil needs to be added to the inside of the filter, rather than the outside of the filter in normal configuration.
One of the hits I got off google said that it's not recommended because the mesh expands in that flow direction, while in a normal configuration it compresses the mesh, allowing it to filter smaller particles.
It's easily remedied, just flip the can around so the filter is flowing the right way...provided the two ends are the same diameter and can be switched around.
You would have the additional option of being able to run it without the can for an open element, or slip the can back on for more protection, with just a few screws.
As for stuff sitting in the bottom of the can, the only way it can get INTO the can is by going through the air filter first in the way he has it set up.
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I dont think any more dirt would sit on his filter than any other filter in or out of an airbox. Yes more dirt is going to enter the airfilter can vs a stock airbox because its a larger opening and more direct. Any dirt that does enter will sit on the bottom of the airbox canister the same way it does in the factory airbox.
Some sort of prefilter/outerware over the canister end would keep crap out of the airbox canister.
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I like he set up it's different. Which I like I under stand keeping water and dirt out of filter but from the look of it if dirt or water did make it's way in it looks like it will sit on the inside of the filter in side the can ? Correct me if I'm wrong
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He got a warning, For the most part some really cool engineering, I love the velocity stack intake that is sweet. Sub do you think it would fit an 87 hybrid with a small reed motor? I see you set-up is for 91-92.
I liked his air box he made to. I said it would work good for my riding style and area.
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i got them from Deebo (Matt). I didnt ask any questions when he said he had them. lol
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i like the 1gal jug with some panty hose on it for the pre filter.
i had to make this last year at hatfield, there were a bunch of mud holes that year. lol
oh and it worked great, kept mud and water from the filter.
ok, who brought the panty hose camping? lol
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i like the 1gal jug with some panty hose on it for the pre filter.
i had to make this last year at hatfield, there were a bunch of mud holes that year. lol
oh and it worked great, kept mud and water from the filter.
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Believe it or not my buddy used a nike sock for many weekends as a filter
It actually ran great. But nike socks are expensive lol
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He got a warning, For the most part some really cool engineering, I love the velocity stack intake that is sweet. Sub do you think it would fit an 87 hybrid with a small reed motor? I see you set-up is for 91-92.
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i like the 1gal jug with some panty hose on it for the pre filter.
i had to make this last year at hatfield, there were a bunch of mud holes that year. lol
oh and it worked great, kept mud and water from the filter.
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He has been warned, nuff said.
Let it go please.
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I cannot believe this Sublunacy guy is not banned yet for at least a little while.
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So, 40 pounds hitting a 40 pound airbox should cancel itself out?
Hey i'll buy one of your brake arms.... $5.99 us shipped to 80637?
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If you were to ride in mud or sand a piece of plexi glass on sub frame with outer wear will help as well but I thought a piece of plexi on lower sub frame that you can clamp on when mud riding or something like that just a idea you get the open look with protection
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So 40 pounds of sand bouncing off the filter hourly acceptable........or water spray on an open filter/ no problem aswell. Or how about the fact that a fully shielded filter only sees as much dirt as the system inhales. Open filters get hit with EVERYTHING. But who cares...........
It depends on where you ride. I ride in the sand and have no problems with an open filter. Open filters have been tested and proven in the sand. How would 40lbs of sand hit the filter hourly? Have you ever ridden in the sand? Have you ever ran an open filter setup? Are your nuts so small that you have to compensate with a know-it-all attitude? Why do you act like a prick to people just because they give you some constructive criticism or they don't exactly agree you? Yet they still encourage you to continue being innovative. I saw you mention period a few times, is that the problem? Sounds like you could use a time out.
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So 40 pounds of sand bouncing off the filter hourly acceptable........or water spray on an open filter/ no problem aswell. Or how about the fact that a fully shielded filter only sees as much dirt as the system inhales. Open filters get hit with EVERYTHING. But who cares...........
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I ride in a lot of mud to and really like that intake...
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I do like your intake that you made. I like to hear it run
Thanks RWV, Im glad im not alone there. I thought it would have some unique character sound from the actual shape.
Your welcome,Yea sometime make a video of it running.I really like that design and like to hear it.I ride in alot of mud, wish I didn't have to but it is everywhere around here. That would shield the airfilter well in really wet mud or splash into a mud puddle or a creek crossing. I would love to open the filter up,but would be afraid to get water or mud sucked into the motor. Your design might be just what i need to get more flow and to be safe doing it.
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Got don pics of my delete she's flat black now will post some more pics soon 4 inch on Carb
4.5 on intake turned out sweet a little heavy but she's steel do only on mount
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I do like your intake that you made. I like to hear it run
Thanks RWV, Im glad im not alone there. I thought it would have some unique character sound from the actual shape.
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Good idea sub, I see what you're talking about now.
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I do like your intake that you made. I like to hear it run
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What did you change about the engine mounts?
I can't make it out in the picture.
Aluminum 6023. Threaded to hold the 4 frame bolts = 4 less oversize holes that bolts can twist/move on. Thats it. :) They look slick, and I can see the exhaust pipe through it better.
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Im might swap out the single long engine bolt, that sandwiches everything together. It is a long M10 now and I see I can get M12 titainium through it. that would make me happy.
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What did you change about the engine mounts?
I can't make it out in the picture.
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Engine mounts, Deleted 4 nuts and stiffer, Same weight.
(http://i46.tinypic.com/25tvt3q.jpg)
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This is the intake system unfinished. It is getting a Banshee rear light/ liscensce mount, Billet aluminum setup from cascade behind it. That is going to shield the velocity stack screen.
I think I will add 2 small deflectors aswell because I can.
(http://i46.tinypic.com/k0lv87.jpg)
(http://i46.tinypic.com/rs6gpj.jpg)
(http://i47.tinypic.com/2qdsmr5.jpg)
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I have this aswell.
The cam pictures are crap, looks much better in person, will have to trust me there that it turns heads.
Im just messing around with stuff I had around the house. I just put 2 and 2 together. Its not perfect!
I thought somebody might want to get there own like I did. Its blue Led scattered light on the semi-old LT paint. It POPS Day or night!
(http://i46.tinypic.com/29kxmcp.jpg)
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Sblt thanks I like your gear, I just don't like being ignored. My lt250r was feeling ignored aswell.
The needle bearings are to allow for float instead of steady rattle.
Besides you guys have had how long with your bikes to upgrade them and you may or not have done that. I have had mine since October. That's why I can be a cocky you know what, and not feel guilty.
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nice, could have sworn you said you made it on a cnc. i think bearings in those pivots are over kill, but its a good idea.
if you were talking about my rear brake arms there not made from 3/16 aluminum. that thin wll bend, already tried that. mine are 1/2 inch with milled down ends.
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Nice job.
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(http://i48.tinypic.com/353azib.jpg)
-Both bolts have been updated with larger M12 titainium bolts and nuts with heat treated hardened bearing spacers.
-This has 2 needle bearings, 4 nitrile seals, and Fits beautifully into the stock swingarm sandwich mounts and caliper. --Also has REAL Full floating capability and ZERO vibration/ noise. Like stock it requires no loosening of the bolts to adjust the rear end. It is full floater and pivots freely. Just beautifull ! I can offer it as a kit I believe. I will have an idea concerning the kit shortly. And I could Powder coat it any colour. S~
- I am working on the actual kit now. Its just NOT going to be cheaper than a simple 3/16" thick piece of aluminum.......
:))
These are finished cloned items installed. I make duplicate patterns on paper and in aluminum pilot hole versions. I make these items so that I can reproduce the exact item over and over. All done by hand or with basic shop tools ie drill press, power hacksaw, bore gauges etc lol. This is not CNC'd. This is done by hand! I cannot hit a button and have duplicates drop on the floor. Thank you
thanks again and again for the people that find joy in my posts, you do not go un-noticed :)
Here is the Honda clamp adaptor. Plug and play
Its the yellow one. Will be blue soon it looks like. It carries the Honda style billet Lone Star Racing handlebar clamps.
(http://i48.tinypic.com/2wggiuq.jpg).
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I just got both from the store on this website, made by sblt500r, they look great.
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Me too grk Im beginning to think they are a"unicorn". Everyone's heard of them but no one has seen one. -->
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i been waiting awhile for some pics of his stuff,
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SUBLUNACY--your stuff sounds well thought out and very nice.. Post some pictures when you can.
Its nice when fabricators with tallent and passion for our LT's can make the parts that should have been on our quads 25 years ago.
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Quadman8 I am glad you asked! you read my mind!
- I Have front engine mounts That turned out nice. 6000 series aluminum.....
- I spent 2 months working on an upgrade for our lt's rattled torque arm. I am pleased to say it is finished..... It features a caliper swept forward to match the angle of the frame instead of the swingarm for an updated look. Also features 2 needle bearing pivots and sealed from the elements or anything else. Beautifull CNC'd to match the back of our beautifull bikes :) It of course has real horizontal float for the caliper.- I am really really happy with this item. My good friend with a Zilla, just drools so bad over my bike now.....
-I have also been alarmed at airbox and filter choices aswell. So I rigged up a beautifull setup. Please wait for a few weeks while I work out the small details. It features a 5 inch fully sheilded filter with a Velocity Stack. UNIQUE! don't know what else to say about that :)
- I have an adaptor plate the mounts Honda style/width aftermarket handlebar clamps to our steering stem. Its simple and very effective.
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All 4 of these items require no modification to the parts/ bike. Only one item needs a single existing hole drilled out larger. My items are unique and very well thought out. If anyone is interested I can do my best to help them.
Thanks, Please just msg me for now, im in the middle of many new things here. Also I have been waiting for the right time. I should add that I have about 20 powder coat colours in stock here. Any colour from Eastwood is available.
Thanks
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SBLT & Rogue where making air box eliminator kits.
You can hit either of them up and see if they have any
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I just found the more attachment button sorry fellas
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Another
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First mock up of the delete weight is about 2-3 lbs one mount I may put a tab that goes over the sub frame but I'm going to test the one mount because this thing feels solid I can't see it going any where 4 1/4 on the Carb boot and 41/2 on the air filter the bottom still need to be cut down then some sand and paint
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I'm going to try this for air box delete I still have to get measurements and if I get time I'm going to try to make my bomb break bar
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Thanks for the tips. I didnt realize the rotors were stainless.
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A good rub with scuff pad and some hi temp paint to be safe will work for colo. rattle can every thing :)) I'm cheap I'm coating my frame with under coat from 3m 16 bucks a can rattle can can look and hold up good if done and prep right
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Quad, you cant coat the rotors, the surface has the brake pads on them, they are S.S so you can polish below the pad line, but I would'nt polish the whole rotor.
I also would'nt powder coat them, they could warp due to the oven backing process.
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Mitch.
Is that brake rotor coated in any way? I got a similar looking rotor from jl custom. The rotor looks good but I suspect it will rust. Chrome would look nice but i suspect would hinder brake performance, Just wondering how to keep a rotor rust free and add some shine or color. I kind of want my sproket and rotor a gold or bras color. Any ideas?
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1/8 x 1 1/2" aluminum flat stock with custom anodize...
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q30/quadster250/spin106.jpg)
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rob was looking into making them out of carbon fiber. I think that would be cool but my whole LT is carbon so it works for me.
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there were a few members on the other site that were making them. i have a few different ones i can take a pic of
give me a day or so so i can dig them out. they are pretty freaking nice.
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I would hit SBLT500 up for some he should be able to make them.
(http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z183/erbe03/LT500/DSCF0578.jpg)
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This rear brake stay arm whateveryoucallit is sweet, the one with the blue bead locks
http://forums.everything2stroke.com/threads/19205-lt500r-Pics-lets-see-them/page2
That's the nicest Zilla I've seen
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Ok yea look sweet and simple compared to my idea I wanted to make brake bar with my number wielded in to it or other things grenade or guns lol I think a little different I also thought on brake bar to just wield a nut on there and make different attachments to just screw on the brake bar. Idk some ideas I'm also making a rubber stopper on my kick starter as well out of a bmx brake pad so when it wears down you can in screw and put on a new one I plan on making airbox delete, case saver ,brake bar ,mabay a custom front bumper
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ZillaJoe or SBLT or anyone making custom aluminum parts.
Take a look at these two sites to see what I am referring too. Something like this for our zillas could be nice. Take a look at this site to get an idea of what I am talking about for rear brake bars. This site is for a yamaha v max one off aluminum parts but you get the idea.
If you look through his site they sell some cool looking rear shock mounts. The look of some of these shock mounts made into some axle or wheel hub nut caps would be NICE on my zilla.
Cycle One-off Vmax parts http://www.cycleoneoff.com/v-maxbrakebars.html
Python motorsports---idea or look for wheel nut caps
http://www.pythonmotorsports.com/vmax/vmax_products/DR_oil%20cap%20holes.htm.
If anyone of you feel inclined to ever do something like this let me know.
Modify--added----Boy I love this site and the new section to post stuff for sale. I see that SB designs has just added the type of brake bars I was thinking of.. SBLT I see you have the front wheel nut cover but something with a little more pizaz like the above v max sites offer as a rear shock mount would be more what I have in mind.
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In going to make air box delete and let you know how it goes any ideas on the bracket ill think of some ideas but interested in what your thinking or wanting the air box delete demo will be out of steel tho I all I get my hands on.
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Are any of you guys making or do you know where I can get some trick looking machined aluminum rear caliper support torque tubes ( or what ever they are called) The tubular bracket from the caliper to the swing arm.
Also is anyone still making the air box delete kit. I liked the ones rogue offered but I dont think he has any more.