Suzuki Quadracer HQ
LT500R Quadracer => LT500 - General Discussion => Topic started by: Buckeye513 on January 24, 2013, 09:09:56 am
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Wish we had ATV drags in Southern Ontario........Absolutely nada in my area......Not even snowmobile grass drags anymore either...smh
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Hey, Derrik!
Was going through my old photobucket account and found a picture of you from that drag racing event in Burlington.
(https://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb293/Motoman991/ATV%20drag%20racing/IMG_14601_zps2dffea7a.jpg) (https://s209.photobucket.com/user/Motoman991/media/ATV%20drag%20racing/IMG_14601_zps2dffea7a.jpg.html)
Gotta love drag racing in airmax’s Lol.
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Hey, Derrik!
Was going through my old photobucket account and found a picture of you from that drag racing event in Burlington.
(https://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb293/Motoman991/ATV%20drag%20racing/IMG_14601_zps2dffea7a.jpg) (https://s209.photobucket.com/user/Motoman991/media/ATV%20drag%20racing/IMG_14601_zps2dffea7a.jpg.html)
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Yea, i don't think anyone uses brass anymore. Believe that was the original fix but it didn't last.
The bearings move in the bearing pockets when the crank flexes at high RPM, regardless of the material used to make the sleeves for the bearing pockets With bearing movement in the pockets, ware will occur. None of the insert materials I have tested lasted for ever.
When the bearing pockets and bearings are both made of an iron based alloy, micro welding occurs, accelerating the pitting and deterioration of the interference fit between the pocket and bearing.
I have experimented with a lot of different materials for bearing sleeves and found that the bearing sleeves that Rotax used in some of their problematic engines, also solved the problem in the LT 500 bearing pockets. Rotax has discontinued making these "plastic" sleeves. I have talked to Rotax and they said that the material is proprietary and it is not Delron.
My second choice in all of my experimentation was bronze inserts. The bronze inserts lasted as long as the Rotax plastic sleeves but the Rotax sleeves cost about 15.00 per sleeve where the bronze material cost around 180.00 per foot plus the added cost of machining the sleeves from the bronze bar stock.
Rotax's discontinuation of the "plastic" sleeve has raised the cost of re-sleeving cases due increased material cost and two more close tolerance machining operations in the repair of worn main bearing pockets.
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Yea, i don't think anyone uses brass anymore. Believe that was the original fix but it didn't last.
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No need to replace the crank when doing inserts...And if I remember correctly think Jerry uses something other than brass for the inserts but could be mistaken.
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Well finally gonna dive back into this piece of ****. I have my motor split and I ordered all new bearings and seals for the bottom end and I have a fresh top end bored with a brand new wiseco. Was gonna see about having Jerry press all my bearings out and new ones in and tell me if I needed brass inserts in my main bearings left him a couple messages. Does anyone know if you do the brass main bearing inserts do you need to replace the crank?
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How many views did his have?
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Also video of it running and doing donuts with no air filter on in the desert
During a sand storm too.
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Also video of it running and doing donuts with no air filter on in the desert
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Probably, but it was just a bunch of pictures with what I assume was the aftermath of a beaver nawing at his ports
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Darji has that crown. wasnt it in the 100's?
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Longest running thread in the forums history I believe!
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Damn been a while since I looked at this thread. My 500 is sitting in pieces and I've had two little girls since having the issues with it last year. It's waiting for me to have time and money to throw at it again. Bought a banshee as well and locked the motor up on it from what I don't know haven't **** it open pretty sure it just hung a ring.
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Well here's a video of it running anyone have any input?
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/th_F55A73FA-E201-4DCF-B919-CA2CDDBFC867_zpsxopojlbi.jpg) (http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/F55A73FA-E201-4DCF-B919-CA2CDDBFC867_zpsxopojlbi.mp4)
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Not a bad idea cause I run mine thick at 25:1. Gonna try bumping my pilot up a little because when it wouldn't kick start and would start with a pull it idled fine and would start one kick after being pulled.
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I have not drained the fuel. I just put the fuel in and went trail riding the weekend before doing my swinger swap.
You may have some water in the fuel or the fuel and oil separated. The water and oil go to the bottom of the float bowl....They are difficult to start when trying to run on water or pure oil.
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I have not drained the fuel. I just put the fuel in and went trail riding the weekend before doing my swinger swap.
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Have you tried draining the fuel tank and putting some fresh fuel in it?
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Well the bike is dieseling at idle and won't stay idling. Leak down test here I come! Damn bike was perfect before the swinger swap so this just doesn't make sense!!!
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Yeah annoying as hell cause all my buddies call it mr reliable cause it's the most reliable bike of the bunch lol always a one kick starter.
Yea, my bike was the only one to survive the last dune trip. I think the motor is getting a little tired and it's time for a rebuild.
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Put my 35 pilot in and fires up in one kick. Weird but I guess the extremely high humidity was the culprit
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Yeah annoying as hell cause all my buddies call it mr reliable cause it's the most reliable bike of the bunch lol always a one kick starter.
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I kinda had the same issue the other day when i went to the dunes. I could not get my bike to start on the first kick. Had to kick it 2 to 3 times. Was annoying. :-\ :-[
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I'm thinking humidity as well is a big factor I'm going to run a ground strap from the front frame motor mount to one of the engine bolts to rule that out. The old swinger was bare metal the new one has about 15 coats of paint on it lol.
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I am wondering if humidity is effecting it?
The average humidity for the past week in Amelia was 94.8%. Most of the time is was 99%.
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Might want to check to make sure you have a good ground.
IIRC, the swingarm bolt goes through the engine, you might have made the engine to frame ground bad or something. Worth looking over the harness and all grounds.
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Thing that baffles me is before the swing arm swap the bike fired up one kick even on 95* days. And now won't start at all.
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Q2W that's my winter pilot so it fires up in 20* weather and the slide seems ok filter side is still completely black and reed side is mostly black and with the carb off I can't see any light getting around.
And yes Nick I agree going to finally break down and build me a leak down tester lol.
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Before just aimless checking parts for leaks, do a leak down test. 10x easier to know if you have a leak and find it than just randomly guessing.
If it is running good, then the next day it is ****, might be getting water i the gas. The weather around here is **** and it is extremely high humidity.
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man, that's a massive pilot. Is your carb slide worn?
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So the bike will fire up if pull started then will fire up one kick every time once it's started. Runs like a top once it's pull started let it sit over night last night and wouldn't fire up this morning. Humidity was 97% in my garage and my pilot is fat so going to drop my pilot from 42.5 to 35 and see if that's the issue. Still going to pull the flywheel just to check that seal. Just weird that once pull started it runs like normal and starts one kick no problem like usual.
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Gonna pull the flywheel and check that crank case seal. At this point it's the only thing I can think of but makes no sense we pull started it and it ran was lean and leaking air somewhere it would still fire up on one kick after being pull started I fired it up 4 times then rode it into the bed of my truck the very next day it wouldn't even fire up. If the crank case seal is leaking doesn't make sense why it would start 4 times in a row first kick and now not fire at all unless it was leaking and that last time it fired up it came all the way out or started leaking even more than before.
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Lmao nice Cunningham! Only problem I'm having now which I haven't had since I first finished this build.... The **** bike won't start! I've pulled the carb and pipe back off I pulled the reeds out and put everything back together sealed up tighter than a Dolphins ass, got spark, got fuel but won't start! We pull started it at my buddies and it was lean which is why I pulled everything apart and resealed everything. The damn bike ran like a top before pulling the old swinger started first kick almost everytime would set for two weeks come out few primer kicks and bam fire right up. I'm beyond frustrated again.
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Something wrong with that pic... almost looks like that pretty zilla had a big giant wart growing off its ass..
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No ride report rained out all races for this weekend and won't be able to race next weekend due to work. I will get it out at some point over the next couple weeks and rip on it to see how the +4 feels compared to the stock swinger.
Back to back with my buddies 421 cub +8 banshee.
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/278DE5FA-E0BC-498F-927A-70AA095ADAF3_zpslcnrlfhl.jpg) (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/Buckeye513/media/278DE5FA-E0BC-498F-927A-70AA095ADAF3_zpslcnrlfhl.jpg.html)
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Well it fought tooth and nail going back together (probably because all the coats of paint on the mounting points) but I finally have my +4 installed the wheel base is 1" shorter than my buddies +8 banshee lol.
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/B9C018D5-F713-4C27-B025-F8E0437B8513_zps8v7kmnqu.jpg) (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/Buckeye513/media/B9C018D5-F713-4C27-B025-F8E0437B8513_zps8v7kmnqu.jpg.html)
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/28BB3B35-9B0D-4454-A212-6E4E4CEA2274_zpshufb5dwd.jpg) (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/Buckeye513/media/28BB3B35-9B0D-4454-A212-6E4E4CEA2274_zpshufb5dwd.jpg.html)
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/96CDD5DA-DA1E-4238-9653-AD7DD16D9799_zpsal1ipyhx.jpg) (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/Buckeye513/media/96CDD5DA-DA1E-4238-9653-AD7DD16D9799_zpsal1ipyhx.jpg.html)
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/D5D23F9B-ADA5-420A-9223-23A873ECE0F4_zpsi0lsbncz.jpg) (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/Buckeye513/media/D5D23F9B-ADA5-420A-9223-23A873ECE0F4_zpsi0lsbncz.jpg.html)
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/8BC1D910-B08C-4E03-9D17-F9F65CB2A734_zpsb1hxnmdr.jpg) (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/Buckeye513/media/8BC1D910-B08C-4E03-9D17-F9F65CB2A734_zpsb1hxnmdr.jpg.html)
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Bringing back memories tonight tearing into swapping this swinger!
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/88BC4ECB-F127-4E29-9A2B-3763ECF802B0_zpsr3hnekpo.jpg) (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/Buckeye513/media/88BC4ECB-F127-4E29-9A2B-3763ECF802B0_zpsr3hnekpo.jpg.html)
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/EE85B5CA-6EB4-4B1F-A674-571524C24FF1_zpsg3l2czly.jpg) (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/Buckeye513/media/EE85B5CA-6EB4-4B1F-A674-571524C24FF1_zpsg3l2czly.jpg.html)
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/EE36AC5F-9721-4554-86BC-4626984C6AC7_zpsqrwbbl6w.jpg) (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/Buckeye513/media/EE36AC5F-9721-4554-86BC-4626984C6AC7_zpsqrwbbl6w.jpg.html)
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/3166FEF1-F973-48DD-9790-7113EF0E3E18_zpssicr5bku.jpg) (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/Buckeye513/media/3166FEF1-F973-48DD-9790-7113EF0E3E18_zpssicr5bku.jpg.html)
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your stock brake line will work, im using stock on my plus6
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when i extended mine plus 6, i weighed it before and after. went from 10.2 to 13.1, mines not solid though. if i had to guess id say yours is 5-6lbs more, not to bad though +k2
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Hopefully have it mounted up this week and racing at dirt country with it Saturday so hopefully Sunday I'll have a performance review and what not. My stock rear brake line has a lot of slack with my rear end lowered does anyone know if I'll for sure need a longer rear brake line with the +4?
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no need to worry about weight, just take a nice poo before you ride or just make more power.
When will we get a ride report?
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I'm not worried about the extra weight of the solid blocks it's only maybe 2lbs heavier than it was prior to the stretch.
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I'd be tempted to take a hole saw to the solid block to lighten it up some more.
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scuff it and rattle can black. Wouldn't waste the time prepping it or Polishing it till it is pass testing.
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Swinger is all together! So now big question should I polish it and clear coat it or bondo the imperfections out and paint it black?
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/71ACF9B4-DE27-4415-B326-A32355690A6E_zpsrwgu0jly.jpg) (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/Buckeye513/media/71ACF9B4-DE27-4415-B326-A32355690A6E_zpsrwgu0jly.jpg.html)
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/E8D6358C-1B83-41C4-80EB-0B4BC5E7CA8E_zpstpncgv7p.jpg) (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/Buckeye513/media/E8D6358C-1B83-41C4-80EB-0B4BC5E7CA8E_zpstpncgv7p.jpg.html)
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/B1D59688-7C58-41B0-A721-B7BDC05E3E52_zps4zj4iwrx.jpg) (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/Buckeye513/media/B1D59688-7C58-41B0-A721-B7BDC05E3E52_zps4zj4iwrx.jpg.html)
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OEM hub. I use sprocket specialist. Just call'em up.
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Where'd you get the 45 rear sprocket from? And do you run the oem sprocket hub?
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my duner setup is 14/45
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What gearing Q2W? I'm running 14-42 but may drop to 13-42
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FYI, I just replaced my chain on my +4 bike and had to cut 4 lengths out of a 120 chain. So 116 should be about what you need.
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I'm with you Glamisrider, I don't ever dune ride rarely ever jump unless I launch it off the top of a hill climb. All I primarily do with the bike is drag race and go on a few weekend trail riding excursions which I mostly just do hill climbs and ride leisurely because it's usually a big group. I don't know the plate thickness off the top of my head and I haven't asked the guy who will be welding it what wire he will use. Having only $100 invested in it if it breaks and needs rewelded at some point or reengineered I'm not going to be mad or upset in the least.
Definitely will post finished product pics hopefully I can get some pics while it's being welded too.
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I say go for it and see what happens.
I don't think Buckeye does much high stress dune riding, it's mostly drag racing and trail.
And worse case if it breaks it'll just need to be re-welded and re engineered.
Lets see pics when it's done.
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Motorgeek, we have 2" of solid aluminum inserted into each opening of the cut stock tubes which will get anchor welded on three sides on each end both tubes. Then going to overlap it all with plating for added strength. It will be welded in a jig by a guy that's been welding aluminum for 35 years and been instructing a welding class for 20 years so I know the welds will be done right and hold. My buddy that had the pieces machined for me is an engineer and every simulation he's ran says it will hold up to a ton of abuse. If it does break I can always have it rewelded plus I still have my stock polished swingarm that will be shelved if need be.
The 2" of solid aluminum fitting tightly into the existing side rails, appeals to common sense and helps in getting the approximate alignment, but actually adds very little to the strength in the weld zones. The plates added to the bottom of the side rails is the component that adds strength for stresses created when hitting bumps and jumping when the rear wheels have equal loads. Plates added to the sides and top add strength for the stresses created when the swing arm is twisted when one wheel takes more load than the other.
What thickness of plate, alloy of the plate and welding rod alloy are you going to use?
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buck. i might have a stock+6 arm for sale soon, ran two seasons no issues and its polished
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There's a guy in Oregon running the same exact extension without the web/center plate reinforcement for over a year with no issues.
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What he is saying is you dont want the aluminum solid and i agree when the swingarm flex's and it will flex. It will crack at the welds because of the inserts being solid aluminum.
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Motorgeek, we have 2" of solid aluminum inserted into each opening of the cut stock tubes which will get anchor welded on three sides on each end both tubes. Then going to overlap it all with plating for added strength. It will be welded in a jig by a guy that's been welding aluminum for 35 years and been instructing a welding class for 20 years so I know the welds will be done right and hold. My buddy that had the pieces machined for me is an engineer and every simulation he's ran says it will hold up to a ton of abuse. If it does break I can always have it rewelded plus I still have my stock polished swingarm that will be shelved if need be.
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Thanks for the info Glamis and yes it's getting plated top and bottom to reinforce it all. It's exactly to a T a +4 and no way to screw or up because of how I had the blocks milled.
I would hollow out the machined insert to reduce the stress at the welds. The machined insert needs to have a similar amount of flex as the rest of the extruded aluminum side rails of the OEM swing arm to prevent stress risers at the edge of the welds. Those solid machined inserts are not going to flex but the extruded side rails will flex causing it to break where the flexing stops.
I would make a heavy steel jig to hold the swing arm in alignment while it is welded. I will distort while it is being welded causing the swingarm bolt alignment and axle to not be parallel.
I learned the above the hard way many years ago.
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Last time I got a long chain for my +8 I went to Cascade Innovations.
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Thanks for the info Glamis and yes it's getting plated top and bottom to reinforce it all. It's exactly to a T a +4 and no way to screw or up because of how I had the blocks milled.
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If it is a true +4 depending on what gearing your running it should take some where around 114 to 117/118 links.
It is generally recommended to get a 120 link chain and you end up taking out a few lengths.
IMHO; I would also recommend plating the top and bottom of your creation and having it over lap your cuts by at least a couple inches that way it does not crack on your weld lines in the middle of a race.
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Just see how far off your stock chain is and buy a good 520 chain (search it by link count) to fit. I usually set the chain adjustment to the 1/3 out from bottomed position and see where its gonna land after you cut it and get the master link installed. Some times it takes some thought if you want a slightly shorter wheel base or a slightly longer. lol
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Got my plus 4 stock swing arm almost done just got to get it welded up. Had the machine work done on the solid blocks of aluminum for free and it's getting welded for free by the local vocational school welding instructor as a class teaching tool on tig and mig welding aluminum, also for free! So total I'll have $100 in my +4. I have a question for anyone running a plus four how can I buy a longer chain to fit it? The one I have that I bought through RMATVMC was just the right length for my stock swinger and gearing. Would like to avoid combining two chains if I can. Thanks here's how it looks right now.
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/CACD7F09-DFB1-4643-9735-2C55EE9F932C_zpskdyo72pj.jpg) (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/Buckeye513/media/CACD7F09-DFB1-4643-9735-2C55EE9F932C_zpskdyo72pj.jpg.html)
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/9E70AC30-100C-4485-8F4E-FEBDBE245BC3_zps2wimp6gc.jpg) (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/Buckeye513/media/9E70AC30-100C-4485-8F4E-FEBDBE245BC3_zps2wimp6gc.jpg.html)
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/0A701CBC-071A-44B2-B83E-C44D6BD354B5_zpscmzffdru.jpg) (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/Buckeye513/media/0A701CBC-071A-44B2-B83E-C44D6BD354B5_zpscmzffdru.jpg.html)
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Looking good!
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im in wv We got a dry dock and some boats docked down on river road
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For work but where do you live at? And you're talking about gravelrama right in Cleves?
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im by there all the time for work
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No jump his reaction time was just slightly better than mine. Best time I clocked of the night was a 4.809 in 300'. New rings really made a difference my best time on this same track end of last season was a 4.978.
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looks like the banshee guy jumped.
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Another good night at the track this time my local hard packed dirt track brought home a couple second places just couldn't keep my buddies 95hp 421 cub from running me down!
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/111B28C6-9A7C-4F2D-AFDA-2E9A26D20EE5_zpsuiu9mpwe.jpg) (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/Buckeye513/media/111B28C6-9A7C-4F2D-AFDA-2E9A26D20EE5_zpsuiu9mpwe.jpg.html)
The last race of the night it may not show but I tried through photo bucket my buddies 95hp 421 got me by .18 of a second.
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/th_0176F160-AC14-4274-BCC5-BB445AAAD5F8_zpsbeo0tbpx.jpg) (http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/0176F160-AC14-4274-BCC5-BB445AAAD5F8_zpsbeo0tbpx.mp4)
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It's a place called gravelrama in Cleves Ohio, first time they've allowed atv's to drag race there the track is primarily for sand dragsters.
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Great job what track was that
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First time this bike has seen sand since I've been the owner was this past Saturday, took it to a local 300' sand drag event. Took first in the two classes I entered, only lost one race all night (double elimination). I really like dragging on sand there's almost no worry at all of wheelies compared to hard pack dirt. Times were slower but man was it fun. Big thanks to Motoman for loaning me the paddles without them no way I would've done nearly as well as I did.
The track
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/04DC81C3-03DE-40D2-86D8-426E0994DA6B_zpscemrvlon.jpg) (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/Buckeye513/media/04DC81C3-03DE-40D2-86D8-426E0994DA6B_zpscemrvlon.jpg.html)
The 500 with paddles on the morning after.
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/A93E531F-F5BC-47BF-AB00-27E67BAB6353_zps3xitxgqf.jpg) (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/Buckeye513/media/A93E531F-F5BC-47BF-AB00-27E67BAB6353_zps3xitxgqf.jpg.html)
And all cleaned up.
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/A0B630D0-425F-4CBE-AAA1-BA7216940F31_zpsa7ekalzd.jpg) (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/Buckeye513/media/A0B630D0-425F-4CBE-AAA1-BA7216940F31_zpsa7ekalzd.jpg.html)
Was going to start a new thread for this but ill put it in my epic build thread since for me it's the most epic thing yet in my life. My son (3) drag races his LT50 for the first time about 3 weeks ago. It's safe to say he is hooked, he still doesn't grasp the whole coming back after his races yet lol but he did great for his first time out.
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/7A69E500-28E4-4453-B53A-58D3D5D463D6_zpsda0wtbob.jpg) (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/Buckeye513/media/7A69E500-28E4-4453-B53A-58D3D5D463D6_zpsda0wtbob.jpg.html)
Rocking his favorite number for Motocross rider Marvin Musquin and the gopro he made me mount so he could be like his dad.
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/872375EB-6E30-4601-8509-CED9CDEEF64E_zpsefzypr1r.jpg) (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/Buckeye513/media/872375EB-6E30-4601-8509-CED9CDEEF64E_zpsefzypr1r.jpg.html)
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Nice. I'm a fan of the black and yellow.
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Did an update to the 500 this week to make it better prepared for dirt drags. Swapped out my works up front (they're gonna be rebuilt and springs powdered) for my old banshee shocks and added a lowering kit that dropped it 3.5" up front. Swapped out my rear shock (Gonna have it serviced too) for a warrior rear shock. Lowered the rear about 3.5"- 4". Also got a set of cut oem front fenders installed. A vm44 will be on the bench next to get put on this beast. First picture is the bike how it looked before I did the changes.
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/E25D1360-2F2C-48BD-AF39-A608D07177D7_zps72bwgkoq.jpg) (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/Buckeye513/media/E25D1360-2F2C-48BD-AF39-A608D07177D7_zps72bwgkoq.jpg.html)
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/BCDE54D8-89A2-4487-A011-A7FC178EC6E3_zpsrj9taxt2.jpg) (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/Buckeye513/media/BCDE54D8-89A2-4487-A011-A7FC178EC6E3_zpsrj9taxt2.jpg.html)
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/787CAFBB-CA6E-45C3-A0DF-E6E6194850FF_zpsh3h6d6h0.jpg) (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/Buckeye513/media/787CAFBB-CA6E-45C3-A0DF-E6E6194850FF_zpsh3h6d6h0.jpg.html)
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/28A8C75F-52DE-470B-A7CD-AF41FF0CE0F5_zps8c3r7rl6.jpg) (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/Buckeye513/media/28A8C75F-52DE-470B-A7CD-AF41FF0CE0F5_zps8c3r7rl6.jpg.html)
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/D5F510D0-7725-4EAB-B9E5-57B171490A0B_zpssr2hze2p.jpg) (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/Buckeye513/media/D5F510D0-7725-4EAB-B9E5-57B171490A0B_zpssr2hze2p.jpg.html)
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It's a runner that's for sure but I probably should've used the right retaining nut instead of a random nut I found that fit when I had this problem after finishing the build. Remated the tapers last night but now waiting on a retaining nut and washer from suzuki. Guess I also should've used red loctite on the retaining nut now that I look at the manual! Lol
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Looking good yes.... But I sheared the flywheel key Saturday night so gotta remate the tapers again.
Too much powah!
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Looking good yes.... But I sheared the flywheel key Saturday night so gotta remate the tapers again.
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looking good! #1>
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New hood installed and the Zilla sitting on its nuts at the dirt drags (after I broke during practice).
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/5CEDC4C0-7D01-4A74-BD93-A4C5E71D0D75_zpsorpsl1j1.jpg) (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/Buckeye513/media/5CEDC4C0-7D01-4A74-BD93-A4C5E71D0D75_zpsorpsl1j1.jpg.html)
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/5700F7A9-A29F-4443-BD43-C119B18FB59F_zpsris7els7.jpg) (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/Buckeye513/media/5700F7A9-A29F-4443-BD43-C119B18FB59F_zpsris7els7.jpg.html)
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Well finally got a new oem hood and got it prepped and painted black and looking crisp as hell! Next thing I'll get is a cut set of oem fronts. But no more busted ass 26 year old crappily painted hood at least.
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/22735B61-09D9-40D6-889E-965200C3A41C_zpsxcok5zet.jpg) (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/Buckeye513/media/22735B61-09D9-40D6-889E-965200C3A41C_zpsxcok5zet.jpg.html)
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I had them at 8 but because the terrain was so rocky I let out a lot of air to get better traction. When we got back to camp they were at 3 or 4 psi if I remember right. They still don't have a lot of flex to them at really low psi. Lol
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I like those tires too. How much psi are you running in them?
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I like the tire size but I'm not a fan of these tires. They're really stiff and don't get a lot of bite on rocky hard packed stuff. No real flex to dig in so the just kinda sit on top of hard stuff and spin. Great in mud though! Was hitting all the mud holes the 4c4's were hitting! Lol
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They're 21x12x10 6 ply and they're hard as hell because they still have the nipples on them. Only ridden on them like 4 times.
I like how your quad sits on the 21,s.That tread pattern looks like it would really dig on.I,m running 20" Razr,s and they,re getting shredded like tissue paper.lol Might try a different tire.Seems the 500,s eat tires fast with all that torque.
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They're 21x12x10 6 ply and they're hard as hell because they still have the nipples on them. Only ridden on them like 4 times.
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What size tires you running on the back?
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Our property we have next to east fork state park.
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Where ya gonna ride at down there??
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Got it put back together last night. Hopefully riding today or tomorrow.
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/6DFCF0B9-60BD-4C60-9EBF-0588F6224FDC_zpszwv6veiy.jpg) (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/Buckeye513/media/6DFCF0B9-60BD-4C60-9EBF-0588F6224FDC_zpszwv6veiy.jpg.html)
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/F9D97530-79B4-45F5-B8BB-01548D6F8E03_zpsrkeyua07.jpg) (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/Buckeye513/media/F9D97530-79B4-45F5-B8BB-01548D6F8E03_zpsrkeyua07.jpg.html)
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/815BB04D-94BC-4612-A958-06457E3F1CD2_zpsr4zobwtv.jpg) (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/Buckeye513/media/815BB04D-94BC-4612-A958-06457E3F1CD2_zpsr4zobwtv.jpg.html)
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/A3F0FD5B-EAE0-4C3D-89C9-AB9AA373E706_zpsaiimdcus.jpg) (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/Buckeye513/media/A3F0FD5B-EAE0-4C3D-89C9-AB9AA373E706_zpsaiimdcus.jpg.html)
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/ED35B7AE-401F-4AEA-A6D3-1C816467714D_zpsddoiivbb.jpg) (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/Buckeye513/media/ED35B7AE-401F-4AEA-A6D3-1C816467714D_zpsddoiivbb.jpg.html)
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The dual gasser I love it! Comes in handy on long rides if you're thumb gets tired just switch to twist. I really like twist throttle for drag racing and thumb for trail riding so its perfect. Jason can get you one for about $60 less then retail.
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Lookin good. I just saw that you have a Moose thumb throttle. How do you like it?
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Got the number plates on. Front fenders fell off my mock up and I'm gonna pull the carb and steering stem later this week so not mounting everything back up just yet.
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/6BC85B3D-70F9-4780-9A08-6111858B5E15_zpsrnz1lbfs.jpg) (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/Buckeye513/media/6BC85B3D-70F9-4780-9A08-6111858B5E15_zpsrnz1lbfs.jpg.html)
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The ones ddrslap sent me originally I didn't see anything wrong with but he wasn't satisfied with them for some reason and told me to pitch them he was sending me out some better ones. They're the solid black number plates.
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Lookin good Buckeye.Any pics of the number plates?
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Powder coated only thing that's painted on the whole bike is my motor and sprocket hub rear rotor mount and axle lock nuts chain adjuster washer things and rear chain adjuster plate.
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are your rims painted or powder coated? thinking of doing my fronts flat black
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Thanks Dez haven't started the bike since I wired up the light cause I need to get fresh new 112.
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Decals looking great! Cool to see that the light bolted up!
(Y) P*
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Got everything but the number plates on ddrslap wasn't happy with the original ones he sent so he's sending out a second set will be here beginning of next week. Truly a great guy to deal with I didn't even notice anything wrong with the plates he just wasn't fully satisfied with them. Well here it is everything is just sitting on the bike nothing attacked yet or lined up. Springs are getting ran blue and white then I'm powdering the main springs yellow and top two black chrome.
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/38CA353A-287A-472E-9F10-FA71014A5035_zps28lg3oto.jpg) (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/Buckeye513/media/38CA353A-287A-472E-9F10-FA71014A5035_zps28lg3oto.jpg.html)
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/A9CE00BF-0E34-4FAE-BB41-469028E33E15_zpslhgrnfom.jpg) (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/Buckeye513/media/A9CE00BF-0E34-4FAE-BB41-469028E33E15_zpslhgrnfom.jpg.html)
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/99B02387-FE2E-456A-9FBF-DD721162FDAA_zps3amm6afc.jpg) (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/Buckeye513/media/99B02387-FE2E-456A-9FBF-DD721162FDAA_zps3amm6afc.jpg.html)
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/3D11BBD0-97D2-4A63-9CB1-5D93DC7CA65A_zpsgsxuaxjl.jpg) (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/Buckeye513/media/3D11BBD0-97D2-4A63-9CB1-5D93DC7CA65A_zpsgsxuaxjl.jpg.html)
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The grey/white/black looks fockin sweet man. It's definitely a lot better than it was. That's for sure
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I didn't get a complete kit just got the front Suzuki 89 graphics rear fender 500's 89 and gloss black number plates. Cost was $99 shipped. And Cunningham I dry stuck them his tips and tricks said wet sticking is easier but not recommended.
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Did you spray it or dry stick it? I sprayed mine way easier.
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Thank you sir, did you get a complete oem kit, if so how much if ya don't mind my asking?
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sanda97@comcast.net
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Looks nice, do you have the contact info for ddrslap buck?
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Got one front graphic on today before I had to split from the shop. Took me forever to get it lined up just how I wanted so didn't do but one! The fenders and hood are just sitting on the bike nothing is mounted and the bike is dirty as **** and my bike has become a box rack because we got a new toy bay so all the toys are in moving process.
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/416B4D5E-3299-4C1A-B435-57674F6710EE_zpslocui60f.jpg) (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/Buckeye513/media/416B4D5E-3299-4C1A-B435-57674F6710EE_zpslocui60f.jpg.html)
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/CD4950B8-C4F2-4993-BA5F-8E36ED1DF1E4_zpsdzqucmtp.jpg) (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/Buckeye513/media/CD4950B8-C4F2-4993-BA5F-8E36ED1DF1E4_zpsdzqucmtp.jpg.html)
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Yeah Dez I went 89 because his bike had 90 decals and I'm not a fan of the 88 decals at all.
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Those look pretty good, Phuckeye! I need to get some decals for ole Heinz.
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Those decals look great!
To bad Austin hasn't been around much.
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Damn i like those! I may have to get some. Those are my colors as well.
Ill pm you soon about my seat. It will need new foam too. Had it refoamed about 12 years ago and hated it ever since.
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This ought to make the bike pop a little! Can't wait to as ddrslap says slap these on and get noticed!
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/3F5C00F6-14EC-48FD-85FA-D9D2E7EAB0D8_zpsu65b3btz.jpg) (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/Buckeye513/media/3F5C00F6-14EC-48FD-85FA-D9D2E7EAB0D8_zpsu65b3btz.jpg.html)
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I only ask because there's billet aluminum ones for $8 on eBay. Ill pm deebo though.
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Deebo is selling an sblt one right now... Good deal. Hit him up...brand new....
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My graphics got delivered Saturday haven't gotten them yet from my office. Pics to come also ordered a used left front spindle. Got some wobble in my left front wheel at high speeds and the spindle where the hub slides on is bent. I'm also going to replace my steering stem bushing, anyone have opinion on the difference from a billet aluminum stem bushing and the bronze one SBLT sells?
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Could do a solid black cover just normal marine grade vinyl or do you want a special texture or design? Like my seat has black and yellow carbon fiber vinyl on it. The embroidery would be extra and would be on you to center when you install the cover unless you're going to send your seat.
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Buck,
Pm me a price for a solid black cover with 500R sewn on the back.
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Buckeye, you do upholstery?
Could you do a seat?
He can. He's doing a seat cover for my LT right now.
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Buckeye, you do upholstery?
Could you do a seat?
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You won't be disapointed.
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Just ordered my custom oem decals from ddrslap!
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It does make everything so much easier!
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Not sure where compressors are used for play work... But having big compressor is so nice.
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All that air is used for work not just play. This is the back bay of our upholstery shop.
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Lucky bastard. D?
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The red ones motor burned up. Got a good deal on one of the beige ones to find out our shop isn't wired for 230 3 phase so had to buy another one that's set up for 208 3 phase. Keeping the other one because it was a steal and it's plumbed in as a piggy back tank to double capacity and filter water better.
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Y'all have enough air in that garage 3 big ass compressors.
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Purple one? Hahaha that's my nieces.
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Your bike the purple one ? -->
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Toy bin at the shop needs cleaned out!! This is the temporary toy garage gets upgraded to a 3 car in 20 days!
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/2469A8A5-1DE9-4CC0-9DFD-AAD63FDF361B_zpsj0uvpnff.jpg) (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/Buckeye513/media/2469A8A5-1DE9-4CC0-9DFD-AAD63FDF361B_zpsj0uvpnff.jpg.html)
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Got the front shocks on. Going with the blue and white springs for this season they'll get removed and powdered yellow and black chrome next winter.
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-02/4CACD1E3-C56D-4EED-BB36-DDD2B5FB70FF_zpswq4uwu9r.jpg) (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/Buckeye513/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-02/4CACD1E3-C56D-4EED-BB36-DDD2B5FB70FF_zpswq4uwu9r.jpg.html)
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-02/6EA8FAC5-C77B-43AA-ACAB-96A0FDFA2F8F_zpsgoucga42.jpg) (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/Buckeye513/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-02/6EA8FAC5-C77B-43AA-ACAB-96A0FDFA2F8F_zpsgoucga42.jpg.html)
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You won't be disappointed Derrick. (Y)
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True story Rider! That's why my cylinder head that's in a box right now is going to him soon.
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Jerry's responses are always professional and very true.
Probably why I have two motors done by HPR. +k2
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Thanks for the reassurance Jerry lol. And I highly doubt the quality of work the dumpster fire that is Matt Hatfield is going to hurt is feelings. He's a poor broken pathetic man.
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The port is a little higher on the left side. It is nothing to worry about. The port not being the same height on both ports in that spot will not hurt or help the performance or reliability. The only thing it should hurt is the feelings or cause embarrassment and or the reputation of the engine builder that allowed that allowed that type of craftsmanship to escape from their shop.
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Looking at it it could be distortion from the lens too
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It probably is hack it up Matt hatfield had it after all.
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It looks like the one side is alot higher then the other one to me.
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I believe so I took it with my phone and couldn't see the screen while shooting the pic so it's at a funny angle.
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Are the two transfer port ceilings the same height? Right side looks lower
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Put my new reeds on last night realized I never took any pictures of my cylinder after I got it back from Matt "scam artist" Hatfield.
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/B1A60F3A-8554-4E44-B90D-E2266BC2DBAD_zpsejedxirr.jpg) (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/Buckeye513/media/B1A60F3A-8554-4E44-B90D-E2266BC2DBAD_zpsejedxirr.jpg.html)
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Loctite and lock washers are a zillas best friends! Glad you found
The other petal, i was gonna ask if you checked inside the filter
cause of the backfire.
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Ordering new reeds from Jerry and some more jets for my carb should have it back together and running in the garage at least by next weekend if Jerry has the 88+ small v2 reeds available.
I'm assuming because the engine was loose in the chassis and moving a lot more then it should've been it was a grounding thing that caused the backfire. It never backfired the entire two days of its maiden voyage and I ran it hard as hell for a 9 hour ride one day and a 5 hour ride the second. Once I get the reeds and everything back together going to leak down test it and tighten everything down with loctite.
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What did you figure out that caused the backfire? Timing , jetting?
Man you got lucky and hit all the glitches in this build!
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Thats crazy
It really is...........damn!!
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Thats crazy
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Well I found one of my reed peddles. Was stuck in the paper and wire fins inside my k&n filter. I figure this one got blown into my filter when the bike back fired and the other one got sucked through the exhaust the next time I fired the bike after the backfire cause I can't find any remenants of it at all.
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/A52F56D0-4F07-4E27-9CBA-31755E52959F_zpsctwkjuyc.jpg) (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/Buckeye513/media/A52F56D0-4F07-4E27-9CBA-31755E52959F_zpsctwkjuyc.jpg.html)
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Yes both clear.
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Have you checked inside the power valve and pipe?
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Yea that wouldnt have any to do with it
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The broken one is one of the inner/middle reed peddles.
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Did you have the reed tension right. On the high setting.
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Motor got hungry an ate the fourth petal?
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Keeping the Zilla here's what's left of my reeds. Took the exhaust off and scoped the cylinder with my rigid sea snake camera with a special 6mm hd camera head, found no remenants of any carbon fiber down in the crank or any if the ports or cylinder. Going to order some new reeds and run it.
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/E25E476F-645A-48FB-897C-F04517F6724B_zpsqrcn1862.jpg) (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/Buckeye513/media/E25E476F-645A-48FB-897C-F04517F6724B_zpsqrcn1862.jpg.html)
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Right I'm thinking of having Shearer or k&t build me 4 mill 421 cub don't wanna go to overboard I figure 100-110 hp on race gas should be plenty to win a lot of local trophies.
We use to have a 421 cub that was drag ported by k&t. It scooted along quite nicely lol.
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Right I'm thinking of having Shearer or k&t build me 4 mill 421 cub don't wanna go to overboard I figure 100-110 hp on race gas should be plenty to win a lot of local trophies.
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I had a Banshee with a 404 big bore kit. I rode the **** out of that thing and never took apart the engine. It was still running good 4-5 years after I sold it. Can't say the same for my hybrid. It sees 3 hours of use and something else breaks.
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From what I've heard though banshees hold together a little better then the Zillas when you start getting high hp numbers out of the engines. Just what I've heard. That and unlike my Zilla it will be purpose built and only used to go down the strip. My Zilla would be competitive on the strip but probably wouldn't win me any trophies and really for the types of trails I ride it's almost to powerful to have a lot of fun on it. Keep in mind I haven't done any suspension upgrades other then camber fix and bump steer mod.
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If you want to go fast, a Banshee is how it's done.
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Damn things got 4 tires too!! Way too expensive to own them
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Just remember Derrick those banshees have two of everything....
Rods, pistons, cyl, combustion chambers, pipes/silencers, carbs, tie rods, headlights lol... lots to go wrong!
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I have not put it through the lights yet I have raced several machines on it during my trip to KY about a month ago.
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Did you ever even drag race this quad yet.
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Why are we still commenting on this? This ass clown is going to sell the Zilla and buy a Banshee!!
S~ >:( >:( >:( ??? ::) :P -->
now thats funny.
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They are a dime a dozen which is why it's gonna be my drag bike because there's tons or parts and tons of power potential as a result of the available parts market. I will eventually get another Zilla and build it about the same as this one some day. And like the Rainman said there's no guarantee the deal will even go through. I was never expecting someone to offer me $5000 for the bike so if I can sell it in one piece and not have to part it out to make a buck, I'd rather do that.
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Not a banshee. Remember me and you bashing the banshee guys dime a dozen Derrick.
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I wish ya the best of luck if it's what ya want to do. It's your four wheeler. I was just hoping if you were going to sell your Zilla, that maybe you could save another Zilla from the bone yard. That keeps money and services flowing through out the quadracer community and preserves one more Zilla that I may one day want to buy. I dig your quadracer. The colors really works well together and it is sharp. 2c
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Anyone giving odds on whether this deal will happen?lol
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Damn Matt really throw me under the bus there lol. +k2 I'm going to sell it and buy two one will be a trail rig (not a banshee) the other will be a drag bike (will likely be a banshee) [|]. This is of course contengent on this guy having cash in hand and also contengent on my top/bottom end not being damaged from the reeds getting sucked in the motor.
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No way!!
A banshee?!?
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Why are we still commenting on this? This ass clown is going to sell the Zilla and buy a Banshee!!
S~ >:( >:( >:( ??? ::) :P -->
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Nice zilla bud, would be nice to to have one
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I'll trade you my bottom end minus my clutch setup for both of your bottoms ends minus the better clutch setup of the two and your extra top end...
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Taking motor apart? Want to sell the tranny? hahaha
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I tested it when I originally put them in and the peg stopped the kicker I didn't test after putting the spacers in for the brake lever to have clearence. I will test it before I pull the motor. If not I will have plenty of time while tearing the motor apart to clean the reed pettles out to have a kick stop welded to the peg.
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does the kicker have a stop at the bottom of its stroke. if it doesnt it will smack the clutch cover and break it.
Don't ask how he knows this....
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does the kicker have a stop at the bottom of its stroke. if it doesnt it will smack the clutch cover and break it.
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I didn't weigh them but the ltr pegs seemed to be equal or less weight the the stockers. Though the amount of added boot grip and surface area along with the lower position of the pegs makes for a very nice difference. I'm thoroughly happy with this modification especially for the price!
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Any weight difference?
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Finally got my spacers and hardware to put my ltr footpegs on. Turned out great a total $28 upgrade and man is it a huge upgrade from the lt500 stock pegs.
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/71DA1FA5-FF9B-4386-B01A-4B34E73CA5C5_zpsfuvlt2af.jpg) (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/Buckeye513/media/71DA1FA5-FF9B-4386-B01A-4B34E73CA5C5_zpsfuvlt2af.jpg.html)
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Looks really good Derick. O0
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On another note found out that the LTR pegs aren't just a bolt up and go (well drill out a bolt hole then bolt and go). The foot brake won't push down because the peg doesn't allow it. So gonna find some 1/4-1/2" chromoly or aluminum spacers and get some longer stronger bolts to fix the problem.
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Looks great!!! I'm sure it's gunna make it up on QOTM!
I'm sure glad I didn't have any stupid carb problems with mine. I didn't even clean the carb lol. 13 years an she was free and clear to go
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Idling with a braaaap before the impeller bolt broke and she got dressed.
http://youtu.be/9T_577nQwHk
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Looks good!
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Well no shake down ride today. Ground some more off my impeller shaft and when putting it back on the bolt snapped off. Was able to back it right out with a flat head. Did get my plastics cut and on the bike. Ordered two impeller bolts from Jason also have front brake pads being delivered tomorrow got the carb dialed in as well. Sblt500's case saver isn't on yet the threads in the holes are trashed so I'm drilling them and taping and dying them this week as well. Here's some pics of the bike will get shots of the other side once my water pump is back on.
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/null_zpsc7f3b83b.jpg)
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/null_zps5fa84f1d.jpg)
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^^ huh <1> ^^
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So my water pump is weeping again and I just replaced all the seals and washers. I even did like Jerry said and ground off some material off the end of the impeller shaft. Should I grind off more from the end of the impeller shaft? This is annoying! Lol
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I already ordered a set not from Rocky Mountain but it's to late to order them not even Rocky Mountain can get them to me by Saturday morning I don't believe. I will try calling them tomorrow though.
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Call rockeyMountain ATV They stock EBC sintered pads for the zilla- 800-336-5437.
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I think I'm just gonna be doing my shake down ride without front brakes all the bikes that run those pads are old and I doubt the pads are in stock.
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250's do! Lol. Is it single pot or dual pot calipers?
Find the part number and do a search and you'll find every bike that runs those
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Is there any other ATv models that use the same front brake pads as the Zilla that I can try to find in stock at a local dealer?
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Sweet thanks CJ! Who's P? Lol I can't get my tie rods of the tie rod ends so I'm sending you the rods and ends together ok?
No problem at all dude! And that was the popcorn smilie. That's one thing I hate about forum surfing on the iPhone is tht sometimes you'll hit something you didn't mean to lol
And that's fine man!
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Sweet thanks CJ! Who's P? Lol I can't get my tie rods of the tie rod ends so I'm sending you the rods and ends together ok?
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All you need is the Z400/LTR450 master cylinder and banjo bolt. It all bolt up the same. The 250/500 washers fit an all. Edit: Just read your post before last,, You need both washers. Helps prevent a leak/loss of pressure.
Source of reference: Rockin the Z master on my 250
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Anyone have any input regarding the banjo bolt and washers for the z400 master cylinder/lever conversion?
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Got the LTR footpegs on and rear skid plate tonight was planning on getting her fully dressed but my dads kfx400 rebuild got in the way of that. Did some tuning on the carb as well but didn't fire it up after adjusting the clip position and bumping the pilot to a 30. Found out I need front brake pads also got the z400 master cylinder on. Used the z banjo bolt but it had two washers on it my Zilla banjo only had one. Should I leave the two washers or take one out? I didn't have a chance to bleed the brakes because no time and well I missing a front brake pad on one side. Also got my new helmet today the Air Force vet in me couldn't resist the scheme.
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/null_zps82ca1b99.jpg)
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/null_zps22ad702e.jpg)
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/null_zpsa4d2e8d4.png)
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Jerry, pilot jet and idle spring arrived yesterday! Thank you for the smooth transaction.
Also my master cylinder arrived yesterday and my yellow outerwears water repellant pre filter. Rear skid plate I ordered should be here today and ltr footpegs should be here tomorrow or Monday. Hitting the trails next Saturday to put the Zilla through the paces to make sure everything is good and ready for the weekend trip two weeks from now.
Also Dez I contacted terry cable and they said to send them my motion pro cable and they can modify it and shorten it or add to it and the turn around is only 7 days and will likely cost less than $20. Thanks for the info!
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Thanks for the info Dez I'll look them up and give'm a buzz!
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Terry cable makes cables also, u might try them also... Might have a quicker turn around
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Ah in that case I'm just gonna run it how it looks. I need to get another custom cable made for my dual gasser a little shorter with a longer adjuster nut and once that's done I'm gonna be running it full time. Pro motion takes 6-9 weeks for custom cables.
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No diablo the stock thumb throttle.
I'm not too sure if that is paint either. I have one that I bought from a member on here that was all polished up. He told me he actually had to use sand paper & a sanding cone on a Dremel tool to get the paint off. That leads me to believe it might be an anodized coating as well. The bad part is that it only holds it's shine for about a day. You may want to try paint or powder coat on yours.
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I'm hoping it makes the thing brake because as fast as it is now it doesn't want to stop lol. That and I believe I need to re bleed my front and back brakes and maybe rebuild or replace my rear caliper. It didn't work when I bought the bike because there were no pads so I'm not sure if the caliper works right or not.
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Replacing the front master cylinder belongs up there with getting your dome reshaped in importance, imo. D?
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Good deal dude! Thats what i got mine for was about $20 from a member on suzukicentral
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Sweet just ordered this. $29
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/null_zps243bd6f8.png)
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I have a front master cylinder from a Z400 on my hybrid. It's the same thing as what Chuckie said. You just need to use the Banjo bolt from the Z400.
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I believe they all work and interchange.
And yes it will work with your LT line. Just need the Z 400 banjo bolt because the 250/500 banjo has a different pitch than the z400
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When converting to a Z400 or kfx400 front master cylinder/lever set up is there a restriction on what years will convert over to the LT500? Also will my LT500 brake line work with the z400 master cylinder or do I need to get different lines?
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No diablo the stock thumb throttle.
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If you are talking about the black coating on the throttle slide, it is not paint so it won't come off with paint stripper. It's a hard anodized coating.
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That airplane paint remover is TOUGH stuff. If that doesn't take it off gonna need to be sandblasted.
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Anyone know a good way to strip the black off the stock throttle? I've soaked it in aircraft paint stripper and the blacks still holding tough.
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I thought it was trinity and yeah MHR didn't even make it shine just knocked the overspray off it.
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CT does good work, Porting is extensive, especially in the exhaust. Ct" porting on the intake could be opened up more, but it is by no means a touch up. CT typically sets the zillas for more of an MX snappy midrange powerband with 39 MM carbs and a midrange pipe. Incredible trail, desert set up. Thats what I ran on my zilla for decades and it was NICE. I have gone to agressive dune port larger carb and Q2 pipe but I cant tell you how that runs because I ran out of time to assemble anything back on the frame---when I do have a free day i hop on the rappy and go play. Trinity is known for more touch up-just make it shine--porting
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Yes ct or trinity whichever one is notorious for just touch up port jobs, that's all MHR did to it after 3.5 months. And trust me my imagination is going wild thinking about running it this way for this winter and next spring and summer then sending the cylinder and extra head out to a quality builder. Although I must say I don't understand how the bike can be much faster but I know it's possible.
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congrats on getting it running. isn't this the cyl you had at mhr's ranch that has the ct porting in it? just imagine what it would do with someone that knows what their doing?
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I've done at least three heat cycles on it while tuning opened it up today after putting around the parking lot at our shop and going through a couple gears. So I think it's well broken in to the point now where it's time to ride it how it will be ridden which is basically balls to the wall all the time. Although today that was pretty scary because I'm getting used to how much power this bike makes now and also the fact my brakes aren't working that great (don't know if they need bled more or rebuilt).
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Remember to properly brake that baby in. Glad to hear its running strong!!!
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So took the 500 out to the farm this evening. The thing rips it is by far the most powerful bike all through the power from low rpm to high I've ever ridden. Didn't gps my speed down the road but I had to be doing at least 75-80 mph and I didn't even wind it out. I need to do some work on the brakes bleeding them and getting them tighter. Bad news is once I took it for a spin when I got back it was crying coolant from the weep hole. Guess I need to grind a little more off my impeller shaft. Didn't pull the plug cause didn't have time.
Got my dads 400 completely tore down and would've had it back together today but he needs a new cylinder. Some pretty deep gouges in his so ordering a cylinder for it from Jason tomorrow.
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I understand man. I wasn't saying you HAD to or anything
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I deleted the photo of the Paypal email but there was no private info on the email just Jerry's email address which I'm pretty sure most anyone on this site can obtain and how much I paid for the jet and the spring and shipping.
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Not saying anything against you bud, but IMO thats sharing too much. I dont know,,, it just doesnt seem morally correct to me to post something like that up. I'm real private about my business dealings most of the time I dont know,,,, Im weird LOL
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I must be special then lol!! Thanks for the quick invoice Jerry look forward to getting the parts.
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Send Jerry a check -
No Paypal.
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I've ordered a few things and paid with Paypal.
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Pretty sure jerry is a cash only, checks too
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Can you invoice me for the 30 pilot jet and just the idle screw spring I have the screw but when it fell out I lost the spring. Here's my Paypal email dphilhower1@yahoo.com
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Ok I don't have a 30 pilot jet. I'll have to order one and a spring for my idle/slide thumb screw. Do you have those on hand Jerry?
I have the jets , idle screws and springs
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Ok I don't have a 30 pilot jet. I'll have to order one and a spring for my idle/slide thumb screw. Do you have those on hand Jerry?
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So Jerry is having the air screw only 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn out ok, or should I bump the pilot to get that air screw above 1 turn out? Also is dropping the clip (moving the needle up) going to help resolve my hanging when reved and get it back to idle smoother and quicker? Thanks for taking time to chime in.
I would richen it up another jet size. The air screw is usually about 1 1/2 turns out when the pilot is correct.
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So Jerry is having the air screw only 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn out ok, or should I bump the pilot to get that air screw above 1 turn out? Also is dropping the clip (moving the needle up) going to help resolve my hanging when reved and get it back to idle smoother and quicker? Thanks for taking time to chime in.
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If your needle clip is in the middle I'd move the clip down one... If the clip is already on the fourth or fifth clip down I'd increase the pilot jet one size.
The clip position does not effect the pilot jet size or the air screw setting. The effects of moving the clip starts to show up in the 1/4 to 1/2 throttle opening range. The start of the taper on most needles is not above the top of the needle jet orifice until 1/4 to 1/2 throttle opening.
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Rider it transitions the front tires into the air! Lol gonna pull the slide and drop the needle tonight or tomorrow night. Just realized I don't have a flywheel/stator cover so unless my CF one is done I won't be ripping at the farm this weekend. Oh and also need to bleed or do something with my rear caliper almost went into traffic last night cause I have almost zero rear brakes. Just ordered a set of LTR450 pegs apparently a little love opening one of the mounting holes by a mm and the bolt right up. Got a nice black set for $22.00.
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Dude it sounds great................much much better. Fine tune with the air screw for throttle response.
Now you can work on the other jetting circuits. I would see how it runs off idle through the mid-range. Bring it "on the pipe" abit. See how it transitions.
P* (Y) (Y) C:-) C:-) O0 O0
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Oh I've taken it on a couple spins around our lot only gotten into second once and haven't had room to really open it up yet. Front end on pavement might as well be permanently airborne. Gonna drop the needle clip by drop I mean move it from the second clip position to the third and get the plastics on and cut off the dumbo ears (planning on buying a new set of oem fronts and modifying them like Rider414's Shirley to fit around to Q pipe). Then it's out to the farm where we have a 3/4 mile private dead end road and about 10 acres to play on some flat and some hills.
Also have a stock cable on the way working on getting my stock suzuki throttle polished up. Also have a yellow outerwears water repellant pre filter on the way too.
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All that tuning, you need to ride it a bit with some load on motor, make sure the rings get settled in good.
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looks like you're getting a good handle on tuning. Almost there.
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If your needle clip is in the middle I'd move the clip down one... If the clip is already on the fourth or fifth clip down I'd increase the pilot jet one size.
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Well I'm less than a full turn out on the air screw and at a 27.5 pilot so should I bump up to a 30 pilot jet otherwise I'll be half a turn out or less to richin it up. With the 25 pilot it wouldn't idle like this unless I had the air screw all the way in then it would stall.
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Suuuuuuper close!!!!! Still a hair lean IMO (personally I'd rather be a bit rich than a bit lean) but you are REALLY close now!!
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Sounds like it settles down pretty good. How's your plug reading?
+k2
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Put the airbox on found out I have the air screw only 3/4 of the way out to get it to idle like it does in the video. Still hangs when reved. Adding the airbox made me have to turn the air screw out 1/4 turn. It was also about 5-10 degrees colder out tonight then any of my other tuning adventures.
http://youtu.be/TYyKQbWYN28
Finally turned my damn phone sideways too!!
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I'm gonna be putting my airbox on and an outerwears on my K&N I wonder if that's going to make a big difference in my tuning. Also does anybody happen to have an extra idle adjuster thumb screw spring laying around they might wanna drop in the mail to me??
Going to clay county Kentucky for some riding second weekend in November (was able to talk my dad and his buddies to go then instead of after thanksgiving so I don't have to miss The Game) provided I can get a fresh top end on my dads kfx400 over the next three weeks. Got all the parts for it from Jason yesterday!
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So as the temp drops I need to adjust the air screw? or fatten the pilot?
you'll know what to do based on how she idles. every couple of months i have to adjust my air screw a tad 1 way or another.
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My extreme apologies Nopick! Lol
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Also forgot to turn my damn phone sideways again.
http://youtu.be/LHBDAdPDJjU
We can tolerate tuning inadequacies and many other things but this ^^^^ is not acceptable!! ::)
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Go tigers? I hate baseball you must mean go Bengals! Lol coming to Detroit to wreck the lions on Sunday!!
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I will check tomorrow for you sir.
Go Tigers!!!
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Just ordered a stock throttle cable. Thinking I have an air leak somewhere though so gonna do a leak down test. Hey Matt what size freeze plug and stuff did you use to make your leak down tester?
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my 250 was still a little lean with the FTZ on it but it didnt hang near as bad as yours is O.O
http://youtu.be/Cs4s8ClSyWg
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Chuckie thanks
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c'mon DerriCk, YOU CAN DO EET!
MYYYYYYY BAD,,,, FoRgOt A c In YoUr NaMe,,,, ohhhhh so scared!! --> --> P*
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So as the temp drops I need to adjust the air screw? or fatten the pilot?
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Try very very small adjusts till it settles down. Make sure the motor is warmed up. I think its pretty close.
Any further temperature drops and it will become worse.
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It slows down gets chuggy I should've shot another video after I turned it in. Thing is with my custom cable I had made for the dual gasser I think it's making my slide hang up or it's position to stay inconsistent. That or I have an air leak I still need to leak down test it.
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What happens to the idle when you start turning the air screw IN?
Still sounds like it hanging and lean. So close!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (Y)
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Swapped out pilot jets bumped it up from a 25 to a 27.5. Gonna be taking the dual gasser off cause the throttle cable is to long and is too difficult to try and set the slide hieght and still be able to get WOT without throttle slack. Will be putting the stock throttle back on gotta order grips and a cable. Here's it idling after the pilot jet switch air screw needed turned in another 1/4-1/2 turn. Got the cops called so shut it down for the night. Also forgot to turn my damn phone sideways again.
http://youtu.be/LHBDAdPDJjU
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They're in my drawing just hard to see cause its in pen and I drew over them to illustrate the top mounting point.
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Oh ok lmao makes sense now,,, you gotta make sure to cut sight windows in the top plate so you can see the chain adjustment marks so you know the axle is pulled back square though. Don't forget about them bro!!
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It's not drawn to scale CJ it's just a sketch I still need to do all the measurements but I quoted the materials on a rough idea of how long of tubes I'll need. It will be my bikes stock wheel base plus about 6-8".
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I believe that is going to be too short. Cunnigham can give more precise info but I believe that the wheelie bar has to be the same length as the machine or something like that so as to keep pressure on the rear end.
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Been sick since Thursday so haven't gotten any tuning done on the bike. So I spent the first 10 mins of my son's nap time today drawing up a wheelie bar. Cost should be around $135 for the materials plus the wheel cost and the cost of the steel to make the mounting plates. Gonna use heims for the wheel mount and the bottom two mounting points and a clevis for the top mounting location.
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/null_zpsa27c02a4.jpg)
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Brian- no I did not my dads friend has a professional leak down setup. I'm gonna see if he'll bring it over but gotta get exhaust plugs and intake plugs.
And thanks for the info Matt and Gillio! I'd be completely lost without you guys help.
Rainman it started with a 22.5 pilot and a 380 main I got my jetting and needle clip and air screw recommended setup from Jerry.
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Get the idle circuit work right first. Then ride it in 3rd or so and hold the throttle at a constant opening in the mid range and see what it does. If it trys to run away or surge, drop the clip. If it spits and sputters raise the clip. Then get into WOT plug chops.
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I thought the Mikunis ran a leaner pilot than 27.5 but I could be wrong?22.5 to 25 is what I,ve heard but everyone is different.If its cooler out now maybe you do need to go up a tad.Running the pilot a tad rich is supposed to make them easier to start.
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Only change one jetting circuit at a time. Leave the main jet alone for now. Leave the needle alone until you can get it to start and idle correctly.
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Did you ever do a leak down test after you put the motor together.
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I'm gonna bump the pilot to a 27.5 and drop my clip down one notch. Think my 580 main is right or should I go up or down with it?
A stock Zilla mikuni tm38 bored to 41.5mm.
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What carb you running and jetting?
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fatten it up, choke her, give her some go thumb and KICK IT LIKE YA MEAN IT!!!! Or loosen a clamp, get it started, and then tighten them and keep it running the time lol
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Fooled around with the air screw tonight. Bike was starting on 1st kick every time (4 primers and 1 kick ignition from cold). So I'd screw the air screw in and it wouldn't change anything then I'd blip the throttle and it would level off and idle real low and nice like it was about to stall so I screwed in the slide set screw a little blipped the throttle and idle would race, unscrew the idle screw and it would still race. After fooling with it for about 10 mins or so I realized I never checked the clamps on the carb. The front one was tight but barely tight so I tightened them all down and now the damn thing won't start. I pulled the plug and this is what it looks like after last night and today's idle sessions. I'm pretty sure I had an air leak just by how irradic it was acting to me tuning the air screw and idle screw. And now with all the clamps and reed boot bolts really tight it won't start.
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/null_zps5f32f101.jpg)
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I know my 250 gets a little finicky when it cools off
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and after she warmed up, my idle was starting to race like yours. Its cooler out than the last time I had it running. I turned the air screw a 1/2 turn "in" to richen up the mixture and the idle settled down and sounded good.
Post another video if you can get your Zilla in line with that idle.
Are they big 500CC singles more fussy jetting wise with temperature change than smaller engines or multi cylinder 2 strokes?Just curious?
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The spring is suppose to keep the screw from vibrating out.
Hey Derick, I was inspired by your video's and pulled Shirley out of the garage and fire her up (3 primer kicks, 1 kick to ignite!) and after she warmed up, my idle was starting to race like yours. Its cooler out than the last time I had it running. I turned the air screw a 1/2 turn "in" to richen up the mixture and the idle settled down and sounded good.
Post another video if you can get your Zilla in line with that idle.
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Found the screw still searching for the spring. What happens if I run the screw without the spring?
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I think I got a new screw and spring off a different mikuni. I'll try it on my zuke an see if it works
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http://www.jetsrus.com/
I just ordered some mikuni parts from them.
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Anyone know where I can get an idle set screw and spring for the tm38 mikuni at?
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Thanks Q2W!! And yeah I couldn't help but take it for a spin last night and not even 1/3rd of throttle in first and it was like insta wheelie!! Couldn't believe the low end torque and power I'm almost afraid to wind it out and bang through the gears... Ha yeah bullshit i can't freaking wait to get it to the farm and rip into it! Once I get the jetting and stuff set right and do a few plug checks of course.
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Awesome! Congrats on getting her fired up!
Before you go changing out pilots, while it's running and warmed up, try turning the air screw in about a half turn at a time. See if the engine reacts. If you have to go in more than 1 turn, i'd fatten the pilot up and start over with the air screw at 2 turns out.
Labor of love my friend but very satisfying when you get her going. Expect the front end to come up.... A lot!
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There's a lot of mumbo jumbo mixed into those 27 pages too my man. Like you posting page 25 like 4 or 5 times! Lol
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It only took 27 pages lol.
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I saw the text you sent me. You finally got it running! About time!
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Matt- I have an air screw its at 2 turns out from seated it's my idle/slide screw that fell out and is now missing. And that's what I was thinking that it was lean. I have the needle on the second clip position might that be why it's lean as well? With the choke on it will barely stay idling when I started it. I've never tuned a carb so all this is learning for me.
Mike- I have no clue I think it's called an armodillo it has an A cut out on each side where it mounts at. I bought it off a member on here the guy that owns the "pure Irish hell" Zilla (can't think of his name for the life of me)
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Holy **** ABOUT TIME!!!!! Sweet!!!! Just get her fattened up a bit (I hate the soud of a lean rap out....) and she will be good to go!!!
When I was changing my throttles out the other day I decided to drop my needle a clip and hooollleeeeyyyyyy crap it was really lean sounding and I couldn't kill it fast enough..
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Hay Buck--who makes your front bumper--nice
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Your so close man!! Idle sounds like it is hanging abit/lean. Get an air screw and see if screwing it "in" richens it up at all.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SyWrQhXgPn8
This is my idle. Its more relaxed. Can you hear the difference?
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I will do all of that tomorrow. Thanks Dez I assume you got my email right? Also does anyone have an idle set screw and spring for a TM38 mikuni?
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Hanging idle I'd tighten the carb clamps & check for an intake leak. Then I would raise the needle one clip if that didn't help. After that then I'd go up one on the pilot.
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Yeah Dez the idle screw vibrated out cause I had it adjusted all the way out and was trying to set the slide heighth with the throttle cable and forgot I had the screw backed all the way out and when I took it for a spin the idle set screw is now gone. As far as it hanging how do I adjust that? Bump the pilot up a size? It's got a 25 pilot right now.
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Congratulations! +k2
Sounds great, other than the rpms hanging after you blip the throttle & high idle.
Looks great (Y)
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She lives!!!
http://youtu.be/jfMLHURiXe4
Pops hitting the throttle
http://youtu.be/dSzAdKcLokQ
Last one
http://youtu.be/oRCWu_knzkc
All shot with my damn phone virtically so the video quality and screen size sucks balls. Let me know if it sounds funny or anything, this is the first fire every other time I've started it it would run for a few seconds then shear the flywheel key. Thank you so much Jerry for telling me how to fix that problem I took it for a quick first gear ride around our parking lot and holy shiznit is it fast especially compared to what it used to be.
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Slides too high, any time it won't run without throttle its rich. If it races hangs or runs away its lean. Set your air screw at 2 turns out. Get the slide set rite. Go smaller on the pilot until it will run then dial in the air screw. In should lower the idle out should raise it. If you get no effect it way off or carb circuits are plugged and need to be Cleaned
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Thanks guys for the input so what I'm describing is more a lack of air or too much fuel than a lean condition correct?
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i generally adjust my throttle cable first,,, back the idle adjustment screw all the way out, then adjust in the cable until i've got slack. then adjust it to where its only got the tiniest bit of slack,, start the bike and hold the throttle to where you want it to idle (i prefer a lower idle and will probably be told im messing my bike up by doing it that way or something). start turning in the idle adjustment knob until the rpm raises, turn it back out slowly until its where you want it. bump the throttle a couple times and make sure it goes back to the idle you wanted
I wouldnt mess with any of the jetting or anything until after you have everything else worked out for sure! The flywheel slack could have been what was causing your problems. go and fix that and it may be perfect now. but if you screw with the carb you wont know lol
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Your slide height needs to only be set 2.5-3mm. Should only take a few turns. You also need to adjust the throttle cable so that the slide just touches the idle screw. No slack.
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So since my flywheel problems are hopefully behind me I'm in need of help with tuning. Bike will start but only when given throttle and won't idle once started without giving it gas. I set the throttle slide up enough to fit a 1/8" drill bit under it but to hold it that high the throttle screw had to be all the way in. Wondering if my jetting is to rich or if there's a possible problem with my throttle cable not being tight enough to pull the slide up.
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I think I got it! It's seating really tight once I torque the retainer but down. Don't have my new flywheel key yet so it's still apart will get the new key tomorrow hopefully. Here's a shot of the welds in the hub too.
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/null_zps98e5b261.jpg)
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/null_zpsdb7089c1.jpg)
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/null_zps829dd371.jpg)
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Ok I'll be tackling this tonight hopefully.
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When you say rock or wobble do you mean if I press on the outside edge of the flywheel it shouldn't dip or move right?
Press on the flywheel in the area where the puller screws into the flywheel to lightly check how well the tapers seat against each other.
We are trying to determine if the two tapers fit each other perfectly
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When you say rock or wobble do you mean if I press on the outside edge of the flywheel it shouldn't dip or move right?
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After 30 seconds to a minute of lapping, wipe the taper on the crankshaft and the inside taper of the flywheel with a rag to remove all of the lapping compound. Look at the tapers, they should show witness marks where the two tapers have been mating. If it looks like the two tapers are mating well place the flywheel on the crankshaft and use the same lapping motion for a few seconds with out any valve grinding compound (dry lapping metal to metal). Dry lapping will break down any abrasive compounds that me be embedded into the surface of the tapers, Wipe the tapers clean and place the flywheel on the crankshaft and feel if the flywheel will rock or wobble on the crank taper. If any wobble can be felt between the two tapers, repeat the whole process again and again until the two tapers are exactly the same taper.
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Thank you Mr Hall! So basically just work it back and forth with pressure on the front of the flywheel. Anyway I will be able to know when it's good or done?
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Do not spin it one direction by kicking it over. You need to apply just enough pressure to keep the two tapers fully seated against each other while rotating it back and forth.
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So when I'm doing this grinding on the flywheel and crank with the valve grinding compound should I put the flywheel on and just apply pressure with my hand and spin the wheel by hand or should I use a wheel holder and have my brother put pressure on it and kick the bike over to spin the crank inside the flywheel? My thought is I'm gonna generate more grinding friction and speed by kicking it over and holding the flywheel stationary but I don't know if that might do to much grinding.
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Got my flywheel hub welded is there anyway to test to make sure its Still balanced?
Run it an see how it feels or find someone with a dynamic balancer and a mandrel that will allow them to dynamically balance it.
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^^^ anyone??
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Got my flywheel hub welded is there anyway to test to make sure its Still balanced?
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So long story short don't do that ****! Lol I'll just have a compression release put in my head when I get it cut and o ringed.
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How much power loss are we talking about? 1%? 5%? 10%? Rough estimate say I'm making 60 hp.
Retarding the timing a couple of degrees will loose at least 2 to 3 HP on most of these engines. Retarding the ignition timing also raises the exhaust temperature. Raising the exhaust temperature increases the possibility of burning the piston on the exhaust port side of the piston as well as hurting torque and shifting the whole power curve higher up in the RPM scale.
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How much power loss are we talking about? 1%? 5%? 10%? Rough estimate say I'm making 60 hp.
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Will do all of that. It did back fire a couple of times thanks again for the information. Can I ask you opinion on slightly retarding the timing on the stator to make start up easier like Dez mentioned earlier?
You would have to retard the timing 5 deg. or more to keep it from "kicking Back". Retarding the timing more than a degree or two hurts the power.
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Ok Gillio ill double check for that once my new keys get here next week from Suzuki and I do what Jerry recommended.
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I would also make you key way is seating all the way into the groove. If its sitting higher than stock ( for what ever reason) it won't seat on the taper properly. I've seen this on homemade keys. Had a crank get trashed on a parts 250 because the. Homemade key didn't fit right and it got impacted on anyways.
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Will do all of that. It did back fire a couple of times thanks again for the information. Can I ask you opinion on slightly retarding the timing on the stator to make start up easier like Dez mentioned earlier?
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Jerry since that crank seal popped out should I replace it instead of just pushing it back in like I did?
I would replace it just to be safe. The sheared key probably caused the engine to backfire because the timing was way off and blew the crank seal out of the case. The seal on the clutch side may also be blown out of the case. A backfire sometimes breaks the reeds. Check your reeds for damage.
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Jerry since that crank seal popped out should I replace it instead of just pushing it back in like I did?
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Awesome info Jerry very much appreciated had the hub on my wheel welded too so I'll be getting some of that valve grinding compound and doing as you said to do. Just layer it on the crank and inside the hub and spin the wheel around a few times? Btw found down the impeller shaft like you suggested no leaks anymore from my water pump.
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Nothing more than what I already took Gillio my dads fab guy took my flywheel overnight to make me a holding tool so I can torque it down.
Jerry I will do that after I post some pictures of the keyway tomorrow so I can get an opinion on whether I should replace the flywheel or not.
The crank case seal only came out the one time it was when I had the mount spacers wrong and broke the motor mounts and shot the flywheel into my stator cover.
Dez I'd imagine they're not original because the connecting rod is a hot rods connecting rod. I may try that stator trick but I'm thinking instead having a compression release put in my spare cylinder head when I have it milled and cut for o rings.
The fit between the two tapers and the torque on the nut is what keeps the flywheel from slipping on the crank. The key is just for assembly alignment so that the flywheel is installed in time with the crank. Once the nut is torque the key does not serve any purpose!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Keys are not very strong and will shear instantly when the tapers stop carrying the load.
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Completely made out of carbon fiber on the stator cover not sure on the hood yet because he hasn't seen it to decide what he wants to do.
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Buck is he making a completly new one out of just CF or is he wrappping the original ?? (for both the stator cover and hood)
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Mike haven't started on the hood yet my stator cover should be done in the next week or so hopefully. Because this is all being done for cost of materials for me I'm not hassling the guy on time but now he has a mold for the stator cover so those should crank out relatively quick going forward. The hood he hasn't looked at yet but if he wants to make a mold for it I would guess it will be on a month or two timeline for the first hood then a week to two weeks timeline there after. He's doing this in his spare time at work using left over company materials for the molds which is why it's so time consuming.
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Derrick how is that CF hood coming. Have you had a chance to even start on it. Im wanting a black and blue cf weave hood. :)
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Nothing more than what I already took Gillio my dads fab guy took my flywheel overnight to make me a holding tool so I can torque it down.
Jerry I will do that after I post some pictures of the keyway tomorrow so I can get an opinion on whether I should replace the flywheel or not.
The crank case seal only came out the one time it was when I had the mount spacers wrong and broke the motor mounts and shot the flywheel into my stator cover.
Dez I'd imagine they're not original because the connecting rod is a hot rods connecting rod. I may try that stator trick but I'm thinking instead having a compression release put in my spare cylinder head when I have it milled and cut for o rings.
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A picture tells a thousand words. Got any of the stator assembly and flywheel ?
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The taper on the crankshaft or the taper inside the flywheel are damaged or not the exact same angle. If it shears the flywheel key it usually messes up one or both of these tapered surfaces. Remove the key and use valve grinding compound to lap these two tapered surfaces so that they are an exact match. Thoroughly clean the valve grind compound off the shaft and inside the flywheel, install the key and torque the nut to about 50 to 55 ft lbs.
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hmmm, that's od the crank seal walked out.. did the engine vibrate badly? I wonder if u should check the crank being bent on flywheel end, possibly when flywheel was removed the crank got tweeked. 2c [ shot in the dark [|]]
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How old are the crank seals? Cheap to replace compared to a melt down.
I was told if your having trouble kicking it over, slightly ... Slightly rotate the stator ccw. I never did it so I don't know if that works...
Good to see u back
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I didn't replace the crank seals. I didn't do anything to the bottom end on this engine. And I'm pretty sure the flywheel is seated. I'm not torquing it I'm using an impact gun on the retainer nut.
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are u making sure the flywheel is seated before torqueing?? :-\ the crank seal poping out would be a separate issue id say. did u put grease or oil on crank seals when installing??
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So engine has ran a few times it keeps sheering flywheel keys. So I'm stumped don't know if I need a new flywheel or if maybe not having it torqued enough. The keyway looks sharp on one side where it keeps sheering. I found my crank seal had popped completely out back when the key sheered and my motor mounts broke. Thinking I need new crank seals. Haven't done a leak down test still would the crank seals being bad or loose cause a lean condition that could be causing my flywheel key problem along with a sharp loose keyway?
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This is a damned BOOK!!! Better info in this thread than the service manual! When we get a newb in we need to direct them HERE first. Sheeesssshh!! LOL -- But hey, we know it'll run here sooner or later. Just don't expect any slack to be cut in the mean time D? +k2 P*
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Better keep going till we hear that Zilla rip and shred
Pg 27.5?
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Ha!! Page 25
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U Mad Bro?
[|]
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Man ... I wanted to hear how that motor ran!
Buck man... Cool your jets
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Just got me some headlights.
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/null_zpse055960d.png)
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Not yet skunk weasel! Awe he deleted his page 25 post. Got everything together with exception of the motor mounts which I had new aluminum ones cut until my carbon fiber mounts are done. Also waiting on my stator cover my dad keeps forgetting to get it back from his fab guy that's making the carbon fiber cover. So if he has the mold made I can have it back if not I'm still waiting. Seeing is that this thing already sheared a flywheel key and slung it off I'm nervous to start it without a stator case cover.
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Slowly but surely ironing the kinks out of it. You should have one damn reliable quad by time you are for though!
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Bought it used from a member on here I think I paid $625-$650 including shipping.
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(Y) airbox came out good. how much di dthe Q pipe run you?
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You fucker!
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Still no luck.
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Aaaaaaand?
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Anything?
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How about now?
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Is this page 25 yet? LOL
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Well you certianly seam to be covering you bases and all the possible things that could go wrong have gone wrong for you. hope it runs for christmas.
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I hope my thread isn't funny but that it can help people read the hurtles I've come across to help them avoid dealing with the same hurtles. Most people have experience in doing this before they tackle something like this, I on the other hand just have a mechanical aptitude and a desire to learn new things. I read Derasi's (think that was his name) thread on the old site when it was up for that month or two.
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Im just messing with you. The old forum had a arab fella building a Zilla that went on for 40 pages I think. Probably the funniest build thread I had ever read.
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Keep in mind rider I stated many times I'm not a 2 stroke or for that matter a small engine mechanic. This is my first rodeo when it comes to taking an engine off a frame or pulling an engine apart period. I hope it's running by page 25 lol and if its not its going to a professional mechanic to get it running! Lol
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This Zilla better be running by page 25. -->
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I got it mounted correctly and I also got the impeller shaft ground down and all new seals in my water pump. Also got the wires connected for the new cdi. There's a lot of empty wires (wires ran but cut that go nowhere) on my original harness gonna track down where or what they went to and either connect them or seal the ends with some hot glue. Waiting on my carbon fiber motor mounts and stator cover. Having some steal mounts cut tomorrow and gonna get my busted stator cover back if the mold had been made. That way I can try firing this thing up again and see if it fires a little easier and do some heat cycles.
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No problem. In the picture I posted you can see where the old silencer was mounted. It's the nice clean clean spot in the foreground!!
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Well that explains a ton! Lol thanks Nopick!
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Correct. It mounts at the subframe attach point.
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I mounted it in the wrong spot, I used the old silencer mounting location. You have it mounted where the subframe bolts to the frame correct?
Hard to see not the greatest pic.
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/null_zps62ba71ae.png)
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This is a V2 but the V1 mounts the same way, I believe. Take your time mounting the pipe. Make sure you have a rubber isolator at every mount point. Be certain that the pipe does not touch the frame directly or indirectly through a mount. It will crack if it sees un-dampened vibration from the engine. This fact is well documented. Also, shim your mounts so the pipe is not in a bind at all. You just want it to "hang" on the frame. You should not be applying pressure to get something to line up.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-S-A1b_dfbhw/Ujhs-VWNX1I/AAAAAAAAOFM/HsTKFFAi2JQ/s800/IMG_20120919_181208.jpg)
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Mounting the Q silencer, was looking at pictures and realized its up high. Was I supposed to use the other unused stock exhaust hanger to mount it? It's just up high close to the sub frame and is twisted on the mounting bushing.
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That would be friggin sick!
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I'm gonna see about doing a black and yellow weave of carbon fiber. All I'm paying for is materials and the guy is gonna show me how to do it all so its a pretty cool deal he works with my dad and is one of the many fab guys for the company my dad works for Specialty Vehicles Group.
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There's a guy from the old site who was making and running the carbon fiber motor mounts already and the were just fine. The force is being applied to the edge of the carbon fiber, sorta like pressing against the edge of a sheet of paper, and not on the flat of the material, so the load/force is dispersed evenly and without risk of the mount breaking. also, the engine is held pretty firm inside the chassis and isn't twisting and swaying all over the place ya know? even though the suzuki's cheap steel frame DOES flex, it would be perfectly fine.
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Thank you for the input my dad is taking the mounts to his fab guy today. His fab guy told him once the carbon fiber is pressure treated and sealed its 10x stronger than steel. He didn't specify if that was on a horizontal stress plane or vertical stress plane. Ill be sure my dad describes how the load is supported by the mounts and see what his guy thinks. If all else fails I'm having my broken mounts welded where they broke and cutting a spare set out of some 1/4" diamond plate aluminum we have laying around in the shop. Also the mounts aren't under an extreme load like my broken ones would indicate. I installed the spacers wrong which gave zero room for movement of the motor. Basically I broke the mounts not the design of the mounts or the engine. Again thank you for the info really appreciate it cause its something I didn't know and wouldn't have shared with my dads fab guy.
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not hatting on you, but do you think carbon fiber motor mounts are a good idea? im not a official engineer but i was doing structural and materials engineering before i decided to drop out of college. heres why i think its a bad idea.
carbon fiber will be stong only when load is applied parallel/same direction as the carbon weave. side to side, i feel as if the carbon will flex and eventually crack from viibrations. its not my bike im just trying to keep you from wrenching and get you riding. i know a guy on the bansheehq who can lazer cut any metal for u, if i were you, in a perfect world, id use titanium. in the real world id say the same thickness stainless would be the best material.
heres me speaking outloud here. in my experience with materials sometimes "strongness" dosnt directly relate to stiffness. sorta like bullet proof vest, instead of the bullet being stopped by a super dense hard metal we use a light weight, flexable material to slow the speed of the bullet.
i see carbon as just like a kevlar vest, it gains its strength from being flexible. you can bend a sheet a .25 carbon fiber plate more than double than a .25 steel plate without compromising the integrity. given carbon fiber is lighter, theoretical stronger its properties would not make an ideal candidate to isolate and supportthe motor under full load.
ive never worked with carbon before so dont take anything as i say as fact. but i still feel as if stainless is the best bet.
you already broke 2 aluminium brackets without riding it
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LMAO sounds good derrick! D?
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I'm not MHR Sam once my cover is done I'll post a video so you can really see it then if you want to send your cover ill have a mold made for it then send it back you can pay for it after its done and I send you a video showing you what it looks like finished. I'm also gonna replace my motor mounts with carbon fiber mounts.
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Ya I can send ya molds. And that's fine as long as I don't have to pay in advance and they turn out wrong.
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Like I said earlier the parts will be made for the 500. I don't have 250 parts to make molds from so if you have a two fiddy And have interest in any CF stuff once I get some stuff done I will need parts for molds And mock up cannot be guaranteed.
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Buck keep us posted on how the carbon fiber goes cause I am interested in getting a few parts made.
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I have a 580 in it right now with a 25 pilot and that's my drag filter setup the airbox is for when I trai ride it will get a filter mounted in it with an outterwears lid that velcrows on. If you'd like either setup in aluminum or carbon fiber let me know my dads fab guy is doing my stator cover in carbon fiber and will likely be teaching me to do my hood in carbon fiber.
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What size main jet are you starting out with? That's a good dune filter setup you got there now. I like it -
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Is a lt250 and lt500 cdi the same part like interchangeable?
Also here's pictures of the airbox I made and airbox eliminator bracket I made mounted.
Airbox
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/null_zps8323eaa5.jpg)
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/null_zps8ec8926c.jpg)
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/null_zps54314c8f.jpg)
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/null_zps9cb7d631.jpg)
Airbox eliminator
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/null_zps93c79f6d.jpg)
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/null_zpsd7b0e865.jpg)
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag57/Buckeye513/null_zpsafbf6528.jpg)
I finally figured out the photobucket app!!
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You talk about kfxguy a lot... lol
I was just saying I got a link to someone that does carbon fiber as well,,,, plus a zilla hood to donate to get copied,,,, lol
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Forgot took the water pump impeller off the rubber washer had barely any rubber on it. Gonna do like Jerry said and grind down the impeller shaft a little but also gonna replace all the seals and washers.
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You talk about kfxguy a lot... lol
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I got a buddy that's the same way that lives around the corner from me. I just haven't gotten over to his house so he could copy anything. Plus he's hurt right now after his "not-a-drag-bike" went end over end over end a few times. Not real sure how keen he is on doing ATV things. But dudes a freakin genius.
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I would be highly interested in a stator cover for my 250 and maybe a custom quick change clutch cover setup..
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I hope motoman clips some wires and brings me his cdi to try but its gonna have to wait till my carbon fiber stator cover is done and water pump rebuild parts are here. Also gonna be looking into doing a carbon fiber hood. Once I have the first one done I may have a fab guy that's interested in producing pretty much anything carbon fiber you can want for the Zilla.
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You gunna get Moto to bring you his CDI and see if that works then? Tell him he can stop and use that Starbucks giftcard on the way LMFAO
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Only one circuit on the cdi is in specs according to the manual for resistance. Stator tested fine as well as pick up coil.
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are you able to post pics in other forums? Or is the problem just in this one?
Edit**
Looks like the attachment directory is full. Not much we can do at this point because Mitch will have to either delete pics or increase the size of the directory and i'm not sure how much room he has through his host.
So, the real solution here is to start linking pics instead of attaching them. Go get an imgur account and start uploading all your pics there then copy/paste the IMG code to this site.
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Q2W why can't I post pictures? This is what I get
The upload folder is full. Please try a smaller file and/or contact an administrator.
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He now has a PDF manual. If anyone else wants the 500 manual, send me your email.
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Buck, you tackling this without a manual. For shame! D? And yea, careful not to snap that bolt off. It's a lefty.
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Bucky is from Ohio - he probably can't read a manual.
[|] P* S~
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Can't upload pictures anymore it says upload folder is full please try a smaller file or contact moderator.
Chris its dphilhower1@yahoo.com
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"Water pump bolt is a left handed thread."
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I have to look through this thing? So much work lol.
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Is it a reverse thread motoman
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Derrick, what's your email address? I will send you a PDF version of the 500 manual. I saved it years ago before the link disappeared.
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On the 250 it is a reverse thread bolt. I dont know if it is the same on the 500. I broke mine hefore I got out the cylmer manual
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Right but the bolt that holds the impeller on the water pump shaft is what I'm talking about mines on real good and every time I try to break it loose it turns the motor over and I'm afraid I'm gonna strip it or break it
Also my air box eliminator bracket is done. My dads fab guy is interested in making air boxes and eliminator brackets out of carbon fiber. He is also gonna make mold out of my stator cover to try and make me a carbon fiber stator cover.
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You just have to pull the water pump cover to get to the impeller.
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Question how do I get the impeller bolt off the water pump impeller? Do I have to pull the clutch case cover to do it?
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PM me your # and I can send a pic of a welded flywheel done by Pete (Hybrid Eng.)....
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Anyone have a picture of what a welded wheel looks like? I don't have time to send it off and I'm 100% positive my dads fab guy at his work can do it to perfection if I can tell him where to put the welds.
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The welds need to be small and equal on both sides of the hub. Has to remain in balance. Might want to send it off. I think Mike aka 500fanatic in southeast Kansas can do it. Probably the closest to you.
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I haven't I had it welded I will do that I'm assuming just lay a weld down on the outside rim where the rivets are? I hope when my stator cover got demolished my stator isn't trashed too. Thanks for the encouragement man, I was talking to the Yamaha parts kid yesterday who's never seen a Zilla and barely heard of them I laughed and told him a buddy told me this bike wasn't built to ride it was built to work on he got a kick outta that.
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Buck, bike is coming along great! Don't worry about all the failures popping up, they are just growing pains. a 25 y/o bike will have them anytime you start adding power to old parts. Just a good thing they are all happening now instead when you're out riding. More will happen, that's for sure. But once you get all the weak areas addressed, a built zilla becomes very reliable. Knock on wood, it's been about 4 to 6 seasons since i've had anything break. Worst thing that's happened is a bolt or 2 falling off.
One last thing, have you had the flywheel hub welded? if not, DO IT! It will fail! And likely take out your stator and stator cover with it. Once you add any power to these bikes, the flywheel is one of the first things to go.
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I just looked it up. The "T" thing has to do with how the material was heat treated.
You don't have to worry about this with this type of loading. I would just use the diamond plate that you already have.
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What's the worse that happens? I use the free diamond plate I already have and I brake a mount again? How would I figure out the t rating? I know the humongous sheet we have weighs a **** load!
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What's a T rating? Alum is a softer material that won't crack as easily, has about half the strength, will yield way more before breaking, and is about half the weight.
The mounts on my hybrid are 1/4" alum and I don't have a problem.
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Might be time to hit up shawn for some mounts. Everytime i break something, i use it as an excuse to buy aftermarket!
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Diamond plate sheet aluminum probably doesn't have the same T-? rating/ hardened properties of the oem motor mount plates. If u use diamond plate better to go a bit thicker if you can get it.
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Yep I thought the longer two went one the bottom and shorter two on the top. Just gonna cut some new ones out of 1/4" diamond plate aluminum and polish them real nice.
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Not a stupid question cause I paid no attention to that nor did I know there was a difference.
If you look closely you,ll see 2 are a tad longer.Just put mine together and I think the shorter 2 go on the clutch side...You,d think I,d remember but it was on a long weekend.If you mix them up I think it could cause your mounts to break due to the twist.Aluminum doesn,t like to bend like steel,it breaks.
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Welcome to the joys of owning a suzuki,,, something breaks when you run it. You ran yours once and it broke everything like it did. Run it again and the frame shears. Run it a third time and the swingarm blows out (wut?) Lol
Man you have some amazing luck! Can i have some of it? No? Ok, i wouldnt wanna skeef any from you anyway
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Not a stupid question cause I paid no attention to that nor did I know there was a difference.
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Is 1/4" thick aluminum thick enough for motor mounts?
You would think so.Stupid question but you sure you have the spacers right side to side?2 shorter ones go on 1 side,2 slightly longer on the other.
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Is 1/4" thick aluminum thick enough for motor mounts?
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My engine is making too much power to start and when it does start it snaps motor mounts and shoots fly wheels at case covers!!! Roarrrr QUADZILLA ROARRRR!!!!!
Oh yeah I forgot both lower motor mounts are broken not just the stator side.
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Wow.... Man that sucks.
Motor mount ... I have never seen one break!
Yeah, gotta slam a beer for better luck!
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:-X
You just can't catch a break can you. Unreal luck your having sir. I am going to drink a couple of beers in your honor.
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That sucks.When it rains it pours.Hope ya get it straightened out.
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My luck is so much more awesomer than your luck its ridiculous!! So tried pull starting the Zilla Thursday wouldn't run. Got it back in the shop and tried kicking it a few times and it wouldn't kick over it would go over then hit a hard spot then stop. I was tired I said eff it ill figure it out later. So today I go to the shop couple primer kicks its cycling over just fine tdc and hammer it over hits a hard spot and stops. Get off look at the motor and this is what I find...
Broken motor mount, **** open stator cover, sheared flywheel key and flywheel has striped out the retainer nut and spun free which is what smashed the cover.
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Replace the impeller if you are not willing to grind the end of the water pump shaft if the shaft protrudes above the washer sealing surface on the impeller
The engine cannot run if it is flooded with fuel and oil.
Remove the spark plug, turn the ignition switch OFF, turn the fuel off, put it in 1st gear, hold the throttle wide open, then push it as fast as you can for about 30 to 50 feet.
If it is loaded up, you will see vapor coming out of the spark plug hole when you are pushing it.
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Ill probably just order all the seals and washers new Jerry, I'm not that great at grinding stuff. Can I ask your opinion if you think all that oil and fuel I left sit in my crank case could be a reason my bike is so difficult to start?
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Yeah in the one picture you can actually see water fluid coming out. Does this mean I need to rebuild my water pump and replace the seals? I was hoping to avoid having to do this! Dang it!!!
All you probably need to do is grind the end of the water pump shaft off just enough so that the end of the shaft is a few thousands below the surface of the impeller. The rubber sealing washer should tighten up against the impeller instead of up against the end of the shaft. Coolant runs under the rubber faced seal washer and coolant runs out of the weep hole.
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I also have an oily like substance leaking from my exhaust flange. And tonight noticed red fluid (I'm using type f tranny fluid which is red) dripping from my engine cases but can't narrow down where it's coming from.
Chris should I get two of the washers and lock washers?
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Ahhhhhh the dreaded water pump. I had mine apart 3 times before it finally stopped leaking. It will probably leak again since I am talking about it. [|]
Congrats on getting that thing started. This last 10% can be difficult and an ass kicker. (Y)
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17 and 16 is a lock washer and a washer. I edited my post to show the picture.
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Don't I need to double up one of the seals or washers or something?
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Replace parts 5, 7, 13, 14
Link doesn't take you directly there. Click on cooling system, OEM parts, water pump.
http://www.bikebandit.com/1988-suzuki-lt500r-quad-racer/o/m139429
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What all parts do I need to replace?
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If you buy all the parts needed on the first try you'll avoid being a duffus like I did requiring a second order... ::) (pg)
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Yeah in the one picture you can actually see water fluid coming out. Does this mean I need to rebuild my water pump and replace the seals? I was hoping to avoid having to do this! Dang it!!!
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is that hole you are leaking water from the weep hole for the water pump? bad seal...
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Oh hell,,,, that's your tattle tell hole it's pissin out of. When your water pump deal is shot it pees through there to let you know instead of filling your bottom end full of water.
Super stoked you got her fired up though!!!! I agree, after you run it some it'll get easier and easier to start. You'll learn the sweet spots and all her quirks and will have it down to almost a science.
I didn't have my 500 for long and only rode it once but it was such a pain to start at first simply because I didn't know how to. Then I figured it out and every time it would fire right up. And mine was sitting on an engine that had quite a few races on it.
Still, REAL glad you got her running!! I hope she does you well! And like I said, scope out that water pump seal
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It will be ready to go by the 21st Drag.
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glad to see you got it started man!!! i think after a few heat cycles you will be fine, my zilla was a pain to start after i rebuilt it last year, took 30 kicks or so to get it to fire and stay running the first time, after that it was fine. get that thing lined up for the next race
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Btw I'm leaking coolant pretty good since it started. It's coming out of a tiny hole on the bottom of my water pump but I don't remember a bolt going in that hole and it doesn't look like its threaded. Any help is appreciated.
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My dad said I got it this far let's just take it to a professional to have it tuned so its easier and more consistent to start. I said bullshit once the shifter gets here we'll pull start it and do heat cycles and hopefully that will clean it out so it gets easier to start.
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Great news! Awesome to hear your Zilla has come to life...
Nice work buck!
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AWESOME----Yah I bet your dad would not appreciate all his fabric smelling like "good times" Just clamp some vice grips on that shift shaft and go tear up the neighborhood. LOL Now you can say it ran and find you phase two mods and work on it another 6 months. So glad she fired up
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My jetting was recommended by Jerry based on my engine set up.
Ohhhh and... IT FINALLY **** STARTED!!!! Pardon my language Mitch and all the other MODs I'm just elated with joy!!!
So it fired up and we were in the very back room of our shop which has no ventilation and a bunch of fabric that can't smell like 2 stroke so my brother pushed me out through our other two bays and out the door. I adjusted the idle so it was idling a little high cause I was worried about it stalling. I then let it idle for about a minute. My brother was as excited as I was and said it sounded awesome so I goosed the throttle a couple times taking the rpms up and after the second time when the rpms came back down it sputtered then stalled. Tried to get it started again but it kicked back real hard on me twice and I said eff it now I know it starts and will run I'm pulling it once my gear shifter arrives.
On another note that I didn't even think of till tonight. When I pulled my cylinder and stuff the crank case had a fair amount of old two stroke oil and fuel still in it. Well I didn't split my cases and I never turned the motor upside down with the cylinder off to drain that gunk out. So I'm thinking that old (now 8 months old) gunky oil and fuel is probably contributing to why this things so hard to start. Just me thinking out loud.
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I have a HPR bored Mikuni, HPR ported jug, Open Air Filter (No Box) and a DRQ V2 Pipe. My main jetting is between 590 to 620.
Summer it likes the 590 main. I am just north of Bucky Buckeye.
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Buck, Just to give you a point of reference on my jetting for a 42 mikuni with agressive dune porting and a Q pipe- and I am at 5000 feet.
My pilot is 30---I have read that on the zillas a pilot jet on the fat side is easier to start than one thats on the lean side
Main jets are 450 with no air box and 9" filter. I dont think a fat main will have effect on starting (but it may) but you are going to be way fat on that 580 main. Ask kenners or rider 414 what they run jetting on their Q pipes. Seams everything I have read the Q pipes do not runtheir best with 550 600 mains like some the HPR pipes. Float heights OK? Carb filling with fuel? Bad Plug?--just thinking outloud.
After my rebuilds or if it sits for month with out riding I have to tow it around behind another atv or car in third gear 50 to 100 feet to get it to fire and clean out--then it runs and starts great. Tow that Biatch.
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You want to be able to fit a 1/8" drill bit between the slide and carb body at 0% throttle.
This is the general starting point for slide height/idle screw.
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Pulled the carb everything was clean I recleaned it anyway. Jetted it down to 25 pilot and 580 main. Still firing but not starting. Should I have my idle set screw all the way out or screwed in to what point?
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It does sound like a dirty carb.
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If its close to kick starting, bump starting it should be easy
+k2
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It's firing now at least it's pumping out smoke. And it's almost started a few times.
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Spray some starting fluid in there and see if it even fires.
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I did it when I got the carb back 2 months ago but it sat around since then. I'm gonna pull it and blast it out again with cleaner and air. And it was dirty as hell when it came back from MHR full of metal shavings and done like it was some hack that had never done it before.
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Buck--you say you had your carb bored by MHR and you got your jets from HPR. I would guess your jetting to be correct from jerry. Yes the Q pipe runs smaller jets than the HPR. Even if your mains are off it should not make a difference on starting. I would not trust that MHR cleaned the carb. I would guess that at MHR (based on pictures I have seen of what he sent others) that the carb is full of crap. Did you yourself clean the carb. By clean I mean every little air/fuel whole and passage shot with carb cleaner, blown out with compressed air, I have had to remove air screws and really clean/blow out that passage. If you have spark/ground I would have to think its air/fuel. I would guess by now you have done it but one plugged passage can cause this.
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Where is Larry aka Rogue1970? Hi^
I PMed him while at Glamis last year. He didn't reply for quite a while but said work had him swamped...
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Had my air screw out 3 turns tightened it down to seated and backed it out a turn and a half kicked a couple times no go. This **** driving me bonkers and is getting pull started as soon as my new shift lever gets here.
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He did my rendering using a picture of your bike Rider and I think I got pretty close to the exact look from the rendering minus the seat being different. I emailed him about that through the site haven't heard from him on here in a long time.
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Not heard a peep from him on here for 6 months or more.
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Where is Larry aka Rogue1970? Hi^
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The thing to do is map out your grounding locations prior to PC then put a bolt and washer at those points. When you remove the bolts and washers after PC, you'll have a real nice spot for grounding.
I did not do that so I had to clean them up. An 80 grit sanding drum on a Dremel worked well for me.
Have you checked continuity from a head bolt to an engine mount bolt? If I remember correctly, Rogue1970 actually put a ground strap from a head bolt to his frame (maybe a head stay mount) to cure his grounding problems.
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It was the ground but it still isn't starting but its firing every kick almost at least smoking every kick. Wasn't doing anything close to that before.
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The thing to do is map out your grounding locations prior to PC then put a bolt and washer at those points. When you remove the bolts and washers after PC, you'll have a real nice spot for grounding.
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Yes the CDI is behind the radiator it has one mounting screw and I scraped off powder at that screws location and put both of my grounds there. Don't think I got enough powder off or maybe having both of the grounds on the same location is a bad idea. I'm not 100% positive but I believe chrome is a conductor and therefore could be grounded to but I'm not sure so you shouldn't have to remove any chrome plating to get a good grounding surface. You absolutely need to expose bare metal to ground to any part that is powder coated. Paint an powder coating as well as ceramic coatings are not conductive therefore not usable for a ground.
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I will probably go through the same grounding issues when and if I ever get around to putting my bike back together. questions
Where are the grounding points and wires?
On a fresh power coated and chromed bike---I gather I need to remove PC down to some bare metal. does this apply to chrome as well or can I leave chrome on?
I recall the cdi box up by the radiator had a small wire coming off and what looked like grounded to the frame. Is this one of the grounds you are talking about.
? when you say ground the motor--do you mean at the front motor mounts--meaning remove PC where the motor mounts touch the frame side and the motor side of the mount. My mounts are chrome. Do I need to remove any chrome from the mount where it touches the frame and motor?
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I have it grounded at the cdi box mounting point but I'm pretty sure I can get it more bare metal than I have it.
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The lower engine mount is what I would go after. You can pull the bolt and drop the spacers so you can get to both the engine and frame to clean up. I'd clean the crap out of where the coil butts against the frame as well. Or, if you don't want to tear up fresh powder that much you can make a wire to run between coil and engine.
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Kinda seems like what I'm getting. Gonna clean the powder coat off my ground locations better and reconnect.
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I had a ground problem with mine at first. It would fire sporadically. Cleaned up all grounds and connections and BAM good as gold
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Could there be a problem with my ground causing this? Just curious trying to think of any and all possibilities.
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Awesome Chris ill pull the carb and exhaust tonight or tomorrow night. Gonna pull the carb apart and make sure everything is clean again too.
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And Rider thanks for the encouragement lol motoman said I told you Zillas are for working on not riding lol
LOL, I keeps it real yo.
My brother has a leak down tester somewhere that he used on his banshee. I'll find it.
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Make your own. http://www.suzukiquadracerhq.com/general-discussion/need-ideas-for-homade-pressure-tester/25/
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No leak down test done. I don't have a tester so ill pull the motor and take it to the atv shop and have them do one.
Dez I'm getting spark so if it were the stator I would think I wouldn't be getting spark. I don't know though cause I'm clearly no pro at any of this.
And Rider thanks for the encouragement lol motoman said I told you Zillas are for working on not riding lol
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Nobody said Zilla's are easy to put together. Keep at it sir.
#1>
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A spare parts quad would help too
Gotta extra cdi & coil to try out?
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I was just gonna say that chris (Y)
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and you did a leak down test correct?
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Lines are lined up, fly wheel key is in there, getting spark, plug is wet, motoman even came over and ripped on it and still nothing. PULLING MY EFFIN HAIR OUT!!!
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last but not least.
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i meant counterclockwise.
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some visual pics for you. make sure those lines line up. you can even retard it even a little to easy of starting. (clockwise)
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Buy one on ebay, it's a 27x1 left hand external thread
This is a good deal for a MP:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MOTION-PRO-FLYWHEEL-PULLER-250R-BANSHEE-BLASTER-LT250R-LT500R-QUADRACER-08-0026-/360717881872?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53fc761210&vxp=mtr
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Well here's what I see behind the stator cover don't have a wheel puller yet. Will post more pics when I get the wheel off.
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Same puller as a trx250r uses.
I was told to rotate the stator plate clockwise abit so that the indicator marks are in alignment but are offset ever so slightly.
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Jerry will a banshee flywheel puller work as long as its not three pronged? And Mike ill take lots of pictures since ill be learning while doing this ill need photos to reference and as always they'll be posted here sir.
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Hay Derrick. Take and post some pictures of what all these components talked about look like. I have never had that side of my engine cover removed. To me a picture is worth a million words.
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Remove the flywheel and check see if the wood-riff key is there or it may be sheared. Use a flywheel puller made for the LT 500 flywheel and not a 2 or 3 prong puller.
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Behind flywheel upper right screw should be a timing line. Line it up with line on stator. Pull flywheel to check this, could have moved
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I emailed Jerry and bought my jets from him. Got the air screw 1.5 out from seated I also have the idle adjust screw all the way out. I also have a hard time finding tdc.
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nope. no other marks. 5 kicks (not starting kicks) with choke on throttle shut. choke off, key on, roll past tdc and kick it hard.
where is your air screw at?
there is a jetting thread somewhere where guus have added their own jettimg. could help you some.
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So got the chain in and tried starting it in neutral this time it's still firing and kicking back real hard. I know Alkyzilla said timing is what causes kick back but I didn't mess with the time and the dots on my gears lined up. Might there be some time adjustment done behind the stator that I don't know about? I never pulled the fly wheel.
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I now have about 4-5 hrs on my top end. Yesterday i was riding with a bunch of 4x4s and was stopping a lot probably kicked my quad 20 times. I dont know if it was starting easier as it was breaking in, or i was just getting better with my technique. I easily start my bike with 150 psi compression in sneakers on 1-2 kicks today.
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It was in gear with no chain so as soon as it would fire it was kicking back real hard on me. Need to get a new shifter.
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For whatever reason, it took forever to get my fresh rebuild to start. But after I did, its easy to start. Jerry mentioned the 500 takes abit to prime with fuel.
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Yea those graphics would set it off
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That would look really good! I want those wheels.
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Like these?
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Stock style graphics but done in black, yellow and gray would look bad-azz... like the guy from th U.K. had on his.... Austin was his name maybe????
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Looks great! Wonderful job on restore.
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Oh and figure out some stickers or graphics for it.
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Mike really appreciate it man now if only I can get a new shifter and get this **** to start! Lol really appreciate everyone on this site if not for you guys I wouldn't be to this point with such a good looking bike now I just need to start it and show everyone that its a looker and a runner.
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Wow that seat pattern looks good. It really slims down the old girls waist. The yellow is a yellow that actually matches the plastic yellow. When you started with the yellow and black I thought it may look like a bumble bee. I thought not my taste but to each his own. Derrick, I must say she is a thing of beauty and looks awesome! well done. If she runs 1/2 as good as she looks you will be so happy! Nice build all around!-mike
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Anyone know of anyone doing a compression release on either the stock or cool head cylinder heads?
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Mud sharks
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Your so close!!
What rear tires are those?
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Seat looks awesome!! Really coming together!!!!
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Tried first firing it. It's as hard or harder to kick over than it used to be. No luck starting it I was in Nike airmaxs and my foot can only handle so much. Getting spark and it almost came to life a few times. Water pump drain plug is leaking, not sure if it just needs tightened or if I forgot a washer or seal or something.
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That seat cover looks awesome. Really helps to finish the look of it.
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That seat is fantastic!! Really nice. Too bad those non-oem plastics don't do it justice. 2c Other wise it looks awesome.
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Seats done pops knocked it out in about an hour and a half.
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Trying to talk my dad into losing the dumbo ears cutting the fronts something like Q's beaterzilla. They're maier fenders anyway not gonna cut the rears they're oem original.
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Just the picture the bars are turned slightly. Thanks guys gonna start it today or tomorrow gonna need a new shifter and maybe a new shift shaft too splines on it are pretty worn out.
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Great to see it almost fully assembled (Y)
Great job dude! +k2
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Looking awesome!
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Wow that looks GREAT!!
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Looks badass!! Glad to see it together, bud. You still gotta set your toe or is just the pics?
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No firing tonight me exhaust springs are on my brothers buell and its two counties over. I did get the plastics back on but think I have some bad news. My shifter is in pretty bad shape (splines are almost gone) so I'm on the look out for a good one, hoping I can just replace the shifter and not the shifting rod or whatever it's called I'm friggin tired! Still gotta get the chain on her but she's got her clothes back on! Plastics are jacked up cause of the Q pipe seat is just foam my dads doing the cover tomorrow or Sunday.
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Boy that head looks sweet. Best part of the quad. Never looked that good on my bike..Would you just go ahead and run the thing already. LOL We are getting excited for you!
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Motor is in date night with the mrs derailed the firing for a couple hours. Gotta plumb some **** and hook up wires then add the stuff that goes boom!!!
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I doubled up the 2 small orings. #8 in the diagram. I heard these like to leak. There is also the larger #10 o ring as well. That might be the 3 orings he was referring to.
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You mean 2 seals right Q2W?
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Those are new on my valve that's what was messed up and missing from MHR along with some washers and the retaining screw. I already have those parts new so I'm ahead of the curve! Lol thanks for the advice though.
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if you're replacing the PV, i'd go ahead and replace the 3 seals too. Most leak air because they never get changed.
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Well hopefully will have my engine done and fired this weekend but this power valve setback is gonna cost me drag racing Saturday. Got a used power valve last night coming from about an hour away in Indiana. Thanks go out to Kyle T for the eBay find.
Cunningham once I get my old one out and all the stuff off it I can send you the barrel valve portion if you want. Just email me your address to dphilhower1@yahoo.com
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LT250R-Power-valve-LT-250-R-Quadracer-LT250-87-92-/370865590299?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item56594fd01b&vxp=mtrk
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I'm finding out its a common problem. That's why I left the retainer screw in and all together but MHR removed and disassembled my entire power valve and then didn't sen me some of the parts back. I was heated as hell when that barrel end broke off. I was tightening it sealing up the clutch cover and power valve window from mounting my engine and filling it with fluids then doing a first fire.
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Same thing happened to the barrel on a bike i'm working on for a customer. But we are just gonna delete it so no more problems.
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Not sure what I could do with it. I might need to take the roller end off it depending on if I get a used one with a good one or buy a new valve through Jason. Once I figure out what I'm doing I can send it up to you man.
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What are u gonna do with that broke valve maybe i could use it for a plug if ure gonna just pitch it.
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No I broke the end of the barrel off where the retainer screw goes in. Here's some pictures. The part is $142 which is freaking awesome!!
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What part do you need? Part #16 in the diagram is the arm that attaches to the barrel.. Its like $3. Might not be a bad idea to replace the springs at this time too. I think i got an extra somewhere if you want it. I fugged mine up doing my top end and rmatv sent 2 by mistake. The spring that is.
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Gonna be trail riding occasionally Cunningham so I'm gonna just order the valve and eat my medicine. My dads buddy put it in perspective for me he said other than that retard keeping your parts for 4 months and not doing anything to them this is the only setback you've had this entire build. Which is true so ill just eat a new valve if they still make them and roll with it.
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Oh hell!!!!
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If your gonna do alot of drag racing id just block it shut. you will never know the diffrence as it rolls shut as you rev for your holeshot. I took everything powervalve related outta my motor except the powervalve itsself. next time i have my topend off im making a dummy plug on the lathe to take its place.
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Well doesn't matter now cause as I'm tightening the retainer bolt the arm on the power valve snapped off like a twig! Effing pissed I hope power valves aren't expensive.
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The powervalve will be open at idle and roll closed. i have mine blocked off they dont do much imo.
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correct me if im wrong, but it should be open at idle until about 4000 rpm or so then close off. spring should be about a turn and a 1/4 tension or so?
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Screw if I'm gonna hook if all up with it in the open position and hope for the best.
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That's the thing Chuckie Matt completely disassembled my power valve when he did his "trinity touch up" port job because my stuff wasn't done when he originally told me it was like the lying POS he is. I also had to order 4 of the PV assembly parts that he never sent back. Anyone with experience please chime in I'm at the shop this is all that's keeping me from getting my engine back on the bike right now and kicking it over.
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i just pulled my arm down so i could hook up the rod and snap the linkage on. i dont believe it matters,,,, now watch me be wrong LOL
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When I'm hooking up my power valve should it be open or closed when I'm hooking it back up for the first time?
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Weights for the air box are pictured each weight coincides with how the air box is pictured the piece of tubing is to account for the weight of the outlet flange.
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This diamond plate is a sticker like coating that gives it the polished look. I never put it to polish.
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Anyone have a sercret easy way to keep diamond plate alum. nice and shiny without a lot of work?
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Turned our real nice!
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I didn't weigh it motoman its all aluminum and doesnt feel like much in my hand, ill slap it on my refrigerant scale when I get back over to the shop after lunch ill weigh it with and without the filter. Here's some pics of it unmocked up. The tubing sitting on it is what will be cut down and welded on for the outlet. Also there will be a drain tube added with a plug and if I want to run a smaller filter like a 6" or 6.5" k&n I can fit a battery in the box as well.
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The airbox looks good. How much does it weigh?
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Air box is done having a air box eliminator bracket made as well. Turned out pretty good for $40, still need to have the outlet flange welded on once my motor and card are mounted and I know where it needs to be. Box easily fits 9" k&n filter and is easily removable with the box in place it will get a cover of outterwears fabric for a lid and will only be used when I trail ride. Gonna buy a second 9" k&n for my air box eliminator bracket that will be used when I drag race.
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OH!! I mis-read. My bad lol
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The bench grinder is my dads and its probably older than I am I was only referring to the wheels and the polishing kit I got from harbor freight.
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How's the quality of the harbor freight bench grinder? Typical harbor freight or does it feel a bit sturdier?
I gotta quick change cover I wanna polish up A LOT and the old headlight lens polishing puck went to crap after I finished the last pipe lol
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Should be finished this week or next. Your race car gonna be done by then Gerret (I probably spelled your name wrong so don't poke me!)?
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I think my race car will be together before your Zilla derrick -->
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Yes he does spouts his pie hole of a little much doesnt he dp. Motor looks good Derick shouldn"t be long till your riding again. Long time in the making. Good restore of your quad.
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I like both ways the yellow made it a little to busy or my dads liking
Chuckie I'm just using a bench grinder with polishing wheels from harbor freight and a polishing compound kit from there too. I have about an hour total in the case covers head and power valve window
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Was I talking to you ? No I was not. Did you need to chime on my opinion? No. So I really DGAF what you have to say you little cry baby.
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Still looks good but I liked the yellow much better! (Y)
Honestly DGAF what you like or don't.
Looks good Derrick!
What are you using for polishing set up?
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Still looks good but I liked the yellow much better! (Y)
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Made a change last night and there were more setbacks than what I listed. Here's the motor now and how it will be. Pops wasn't a fan of all the yellow so I polished everything. Power valve adjuster will be black the the o ring tore so that's why it's not pictured.
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Oh I know it will all be worth it but I'm dealing with so many delays and setbacks I'm just putting it on the back burner until after my honeymoon. No need to do everything right to this point and cut corners and rush last minute to have it turn out half assed or have something get missed and go wrong.
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Well eff my life yet again! Cometic sent me the wrong intake gasket and my dad couldn't find the place to get the race fuel. So eff it this things on hold and out if my mind completely for the next week! Almost to my damn breaking point with all these bull **** setbacks. Patience is something I severely lack!
Sounds EXACTLY like what I went through with this kx125. After weeks of set backs and many tries I finally got to ride it today and let me tell ya it was all worth it in the end. D?
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Well eff my life yet again! Cometic sent me the wrong intake gasket and my dad couldn't find the place to get the race fuel. So eff it this things on hold and out if my mind completely for the next week! Almost to my damn breaking point with all these bull **** setbacks. Patience is something I severely lack!
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Hey Matt easy now! Lol once I get it running I'm gonna pay Mitch to clean up the garbage out of this build thread.
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After 16 pages of BS we better see a running Zilla soon!!!
S~ :o P* D? +k2 -->
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Quadman8's head was delivered yesterday stripped the paint and polished it. Got yamabond sealing things up and my dads picking up some Sunoco 112 and spark plugs when he gets off work. No throttle cable gonna try and fire it without it tonight hopefully.
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Her response "you care more about starting that bike an going drag racing then you do getting married and going on our honeymoon"
And it starts...you've failed to set expectations before your tied the knot and now you're in trouble P* Any woman who is with a man who owns and services a 500 knows that there will always be another woman that she'll be 2nd fiddle to.
I can't count how many times I've heard the same old story about how you love that bike more than me [|]
That reminds me; she said she was leaving me if I went riding one more time....boy am I going to miss her.
(http://onlinewebfun.com/wp-content/uploads/motorcycle-burn-out-in-living-room.jpg)
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Funny you say that after I got off the phone I told Megan (my fiancé) I was pissed I wouldn't get to start the engine most likely on Friday. Her response "you care more about starting that bike an going drag racing when we get back then you do getting married and going on our honeymoon" my response "no way I'm just frustrated cause I was hoping to be the first to fire it up" in my head in thinking maybe a little bit! Lol
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Dayum dude.. Well maybe you will get the first kick on this b!tch after all! God knows you deserve it. If i was you id just enjoy my wedding and honeymoon, say eff the damn zilla til i got back.
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Well damn that sucks!! Just got a call from motion pro about my custom throttle cable I completely forgot about needing. Well there was a mix up when it first shipped out and it went to some guy in Seattle and he had to return it well they just got it back and it's not shipping out till tomorrow from San Fran. Bad news is I ruined my stock cable so I have no throttle cable for the old suzukin thumb throttle and no cable for my new dual gasser. Eff MY LIFE!!
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Quadman that's all good planning on running 112 Sunoco anyway. And when my air box is done if you like it I have enough material to make another one if you pay for the welding $40-50 I think is what my dads paying the fab guy at his work I'll have another box put together and send it out to you. I'm also gonna fab up an air box eliminator clamp on filter bracket.
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With time lines and everything ill most likely be relying on my dad and brother to do the first fire and heat cycles while I'm on my honeymoon.
Tell your Bro and Pops to bring their work boots or riding boots. They might want to start doing some leg exercises now.
:)) O0 P*
Kinda unrelated to thread but why do ppl always say bout wearing boots? i start my zilla in sneakers all the time.
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I am excited to see what that airbox looks like.
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Buck--that head is set up to run on race gas at sea level and 50/50 at 5000 feet. I think they said it would be there by noon on thurdsay..
Gee, I feel like an organ donor, with parts of my quad running all over the country. now i need to get off my arse and assemble mine. I have been working on a new toy to fill my need for serious speed. I rebuilt my 1996 V max Gen1--lots of bling,respring forks, some power tricks, new fenders, bad ass alien headlight and I spent way too much time on a very very deep candy red over black paint job. Looks Black until its in direct sun then you get lots of the red pearl and flake. I will post a pic in the toys section tomorrow after my ride. Heading up to Mirror lake in the High Uinta mountains.
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Thanks Dez trust me there will be lots of video!! I just hope it starts easier than it used to. My air box should be welded tomorrow.
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Cool to hear your getting dialed in...
Take some video. P*
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Quadman8 did me a super solid sent his ct cut squish head 2nd day air so I might get to do first fire after all! Motoman you're gonna come over to the shop for that aren't you?
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That motors looking sexy as a mofo dude. I dig the yellow on black big time
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With time lines and everything ill most likely be relying on my dad and brother to do the first fire and heat cycles while I'm on my honeymoon.
Tell your Bro and Pops to bring their work boots or riding boots. They might want to start doing some leg exercises now.
:)) O0 P*
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That engine is looking good.
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After looking at it I'm gonna pull the power valve adjuster and plate off and paint them yellow. I contacted quadman8 about buying his cylinder head. With time lines and everything ill most likely be relying on my dad and brother to do the first fire and heat cycles while I'm on my honeymoon. Thanks a lot Matt Hatfield for that!!
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P*
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If the round part were nice and smooth and symmetrical I would've done it no hesitation but its got the molding like through it and its not even a full unobscured circle.
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That would be pretty sweet! +k2
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That would look cool but because of the shiny Q pipe and I polished my swing arm the color scheme of my bike is black yellow and shine!! So my engine has to have shine I thought about getting creative on my clutch cover. Doing it black with a yellow water pump and taping of a circle or Suzuki style S and polishing just that circle or S. I figure with it being polished I can always do that if I get bored with it down the road.
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Looks great! If it were me (and this is how Im doing mine) I would do the clutch/water pemp, and stator covers black and yellow also D?)
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Mike that sucks man I hope your cover turns out good and it gets done soon for you.
So since my cylinder head is exactly as it was when I sent it off I'm wanting input. Should I buy Quadman8's cylinder head for a really good deal he's offered me that has the squish corrected or should I order a cool head and if I order a cool head what cc dome is good to go with?
Btw here's my engine as it sits right now. Gotta hit the clutch and stator covers on the polishing wheel a few more times but this is what my engine will look like unless I go with a cool head. Only thing is all the case cover bolts will be brand new hardware.
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Buck--I should have had your dad to my zillz desert seat. It might be done by now. I found a local guy to do the zilla seat cover and I also have a sweet yamaha vmax with a corbin custom seat i neet heavily modified in the fiberglas pan and back strap. I did great word but man he is slow. he has had it a month and not touched if but he did finish the vmax seat.
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Mike it's on the page before this one it hasn't been welded yet and still needs some grinding done on it to get it to fit. In the mean time I'm just gonna make a air box eliminator bracket like SBLT500 sells on here.
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buck--did you ever make your aluminum intake?
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Biker gang field meets and haspin acres.
So as for hoping I didn't have any more setbacks I just got my cylinder head bak from MHR and after 4 months he didn't even touch it other than dropping it or doing something to take a big gouge of aluminum out of the top of it! I have all my parts back and no reason to drive down to clarkson ky but I might make the trip just to blast that lazy POS in the nose and make him look ten times worse than George Zimmerman!!!
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where are these other 7 trips you speak of!
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Unfortunately due to MHR jacking up my build timeline by 3 months I already missed 7 drag events this year that weren't rained out plus about 5 trail trips with my dad. Next season will be the fun one because ill have way more free time. Not having to spend time helping the mrs plan the wedding (FYI they get extremely pissed when you don't chip in some help).
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eh 4 events. -->
I guess those 4 events plus other places events plus treverton riding, yes I see a busy future for this next build! S~
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There were 4 events this year the previous two (6/29 and 7/20) got rained out so my Zilla build can still make the first race this year! Provided I get no new set backs.
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Sucks they only have 2 events planned. I was hoping to see something more... active more events.
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Here's where I'm racing August 10th. It's cool cause they do pee wee races so its fun for the whole family. These are 300ft drags and cheap with buy backs double elimination.
http://www.dirtcountrymx.com/home/event/23
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Derrick when you get the chance no rush fill me in more about these drag races. P*
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So screw the o ringing of the cylinder head just ordered a copper Cometic head gasket. Ill run that for this season and send my head to either Carl or Jerry to have the squish checked and cut for o rings. MHR supposedly cut the squish but ill have whoever cuts my o rings double check it. Hopefully I have my gasket Tuesday or Wednesday so I can have a leak down test done on Thursday and reassemble the bike and do heat cycles Friday. My wedding is Saturday and I'll be on my honeymoon until August 9th and have a race planned for August 10th. While I'm gone my dad will be breaking the bike in for me but I'll be damned if I'm letting anyone else but me do the first fire on this biatch!!!
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You should just give up and sell me your bottom end haha.
You guys really shouldn't be talking about this kind of stuff in an open forum. _^_ _^_ _^_ _^_ _^_ _^_
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Sounds like my luck.......if it wasn't for bad luck I wouldn't have any luck at all.
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You should just give up and sell me your bottom end haha.
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More bad news bears for me!! Machinist that was gonna cut my head for o rings is in the hospital with health issues probably won't be back to work for 2-4 weeks!! FML found another machinist that is pretty confident they can do it but it won't be done till likely end of next week. This build hates me!!!
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It's coming together. Hell yeah
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My head was shipped from Matt yesterday and if I'm lucky will be here Saturday. A local engine machine shop is gonna do me a huge favor and o ring it for me Saturday, however if its not delivered till Monday ill have to order a head gasket and wait 3 weeks to have it o ringed. And I will be drag racing dangerous.
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Buck that engine looks great. Will be cool to see your engine come together. That head sure got the head stay holes opened up!
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Motor looks great! You get your head back from matt or is it a different one?
You say your gonna be in drag race comp or race (track) ? If it is drag racing I may have you hook me up with some info. S~
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Well air box is cut and ready to get welded gonna have to shrink the end of it though at its current thickness it won't fit between the frame rails. Good news is if I run a 6" k&n I have plenty of room for a battery. Although I'd I run a battery in the future it will be mounted in a water tight custom box on the front frame rails behind the bumper to add some weight to help keep the front end down. Motor is also painted black now with engine enamel 500 degree paint. Both case covers are coming off and getting stripped back down and repolished. Cylinder head pictured isn't mine mine will be painted yellow in the engine enamel high temp paint.
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Throttle cable from motion pro for my dual gasser shipped yesterday. Hit my cases with a couple coats of black enamel yesterday as well. Gonna finish painting today and cut the aluminum for my air box today as well should be welded up in a day or two for free by one of the fab guys at my dads work. Still waiting on my cylinder head and once I get it from MHR still have to have it cut for o rings locally. Then it's leak down test address any leaks remount engine connect fuel lines and electrics and first fire. Not much left to do if only my cylinder head didn't take over a month to get sent out once it was realized I received the wrong one.
Good news is every drag race locally has been rained out so I still may make the first race if the season at the local strip!
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Nice clutch tool.......looks alot like mine-haha. Why spend $20.00 on something you can make for free.
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There ya go!!! Improvise and conquer!
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Clutch hub holder tool!
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Hope he can pull thru for you
+k2
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Good thing he found the head.
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Ordered my jets and a new needle jet from Jerry Friday should have it next week. MHR found my head but the squish isn't cut and o rings aren't done either. Having the squish cut and sent back ill have it o ringed locally don't have an exact time frame when to expect my head back still.
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4th position
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He's getting his shop set up and is unreachable from what he told me. He's working to sort out the mess that Tiffany created for him and will be in communication with anyone that has parts there ASAP.
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Buckeye, not to de-rail your thread (great job btw, keep it up!), do you have any way to get in touch w/ Matt? E-mail and phone...no luck.... thanks man
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Second
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So is this the second position or first position?
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u would be one from leanest position
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So ordering some jets from Mr. Hall got some advice from him on tuning. In the picture what position do I have the clip on? Thanks
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Ya your not the only one! Hes still pulling my leg that no good mother (pg)!
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Cussing at MHR every 5 seconds!!!
Also found out while putting the piston on I have a hot rods connecting rod not sure about the crank though didn't even notice that till now. Don't know if that's good or bad.
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Got my billet thrust washers from Mr. Keller! Thanks Mitch!!! Was hoping you'd throw a set of o rings in with them and bill me for it gonna try to find o rings local and try to run this head I reckon.
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Ears weren't reinforced.
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Thanks Jerry! +k2
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Thanks Mike for the awesome offer I'll run it by my pops.
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Buckeye---If it helps you out I have a head already properly modded by Allan At CT Racing ( he does SOLID work) that I will sell to you cheap for all the crap you have been through. I had been asking 85 + 15 bucks for the ride but I will sell it to you for $50 including shipping if your interested. It is listed in the for sale section. It is non o-ring with no mods to cooling holes. The squish has been properly cut and It does require race fuel at sea level and requires 50/50 mix at the 4500-5500 foot elevation I run.--quadman8,
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[|]
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DP its a dual gasser so its thumb and twist!!
Jerry it's stock cylinder length bored to 87.5mm and if I ran a cool head I'd likely have it o ringed or have my cylinder o ringed if that's doable.
If you had the ears reinforced, the cylinder should be shorter if it was done right.
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DP its a dual gasser so its thumb and twist!!
Jerry it's stock cylinder length bored to 87.5mm and if I ran a cool head I'd likely have it o ringed or have my cylinder o ringed if that's doable.
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Ok so that being said what would be a good dome cc size to use 62, 60, 58? Jerry I'm useless when it comes to dome sizes and compression ratios and Matt isn't even able to produce my head that I sent him so I don't really trust much of anything about what kind of porting was done to my cylinder. Really effed up in my engine builder selection to say the least.
The volume of the dome we use depends upon your cylinder length and head gasket thickness.
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Twist throttles slow you down !!! :D
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My Father's Day present arrived today! BRAAAAAAPPPPPP
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I say the head you have now will work just fine .When you get your bearing and thrust washers.Put it on and check the squish and see if its right or not.
From what I got from reading Jerry's post the water mod will work just fine on your quad. Or get a cool head and send it to Jerry or Carl for some TLC.
The water port mods done to his head will not be very effective because the holes are too large.
I miss Read your post Jerry. I saw the holes were smaller in the pic of that head. That's why I thought that head would work . I don't know the size you need Buck. I started with a 22cc on my 250 which is the same as stock and had it work on, Which it isn't no 22cc now since the mod was done to it.
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Ok so that being said what would be a good dome cc size to use 62, 60, 58? Jerry I'm useless when it comes to dome sizes and compression ratios and Matt isn't even able to produce my head that I sent him so I don't really trust much of anything about what kind of porting was done to my cylinder. Really effed up in my engine builder selection to say the least.
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So if I end up going the cool head route cause I'm not too confident my head will ever make its way back to me, what's a good cc dome size to go with? Also could I run one dome for drag racing and swap it out for another dome for trail riding? O ringing a cool head about how much does that cost and has anyone ever o ringed their cylinder?
Why to you want to screw up your engine design by using the right head one day and the wrong head another day.
It is the total engine design: ports, pipe, reeds, carb head and ignition timing that determines what octane fuel your engine needs.
Just changing the compression ratio does not have a large influence on the octane rating that your engine needs unless you reduce the compression to the point that it makes power like a 250. If you reduce your compression ratio this much, your pipe and ports will be a mile out of tune with each other.
Most of this stuff about using different heads or domes so that you can have a engine that can run on any fuel began when the billett heads were first started. I am not sure if was a marketing campaign to sell you more domes after you bought a billet shell or if it was absolute ignorance about the intricate design and understanding of high performance two strokes on the part of the billet head industry.
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So if I end up going the cool head route cause I'm not too confident my head will ever make its way back to me, what's a good cc dome size to go with? Also could I run one dome for drag racing and swap it out for another dome for trail riding? O ringing a cool head about how much does that cost and has anyone ever o ringed their cylinder?
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Let's call it "that head" because even though I'm in possession of it its anything but my head.
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I say the head you have now will work just fine .When you get your bearing and thrust washers.Put it on and check the squish and see if its right or not.
From what I got from reading Jerry's post the water mod will work just fine on your quad. Or get a cool head and send it to Jerry or Carl for some TLC.
The water port mods done to his head will not be very effective because the holes are too large.
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I say the head you have now will work just fine .When you get your bearing and thrust washers.Put it on and check the squish and see if its right or not.
From what I got from reading Jerry's post the water mod will work just fine on your quad. Or get a cool head and send it to Jerry or Carl for some TLC.
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True that man!
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500's are meant to be worked on, not ridden LOL.
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At a stand still waiting on 99 rm wrist pin bearing and billet thrust washers. Don't want to use this head because of the water port mods and the decking. If I don't have a resolutions from MHR I will probably be going the route of a cool head not sure in cc of dome and all that though and would then have to have the cool head o ringed or get a head gasket. Basically unless I get my head back o ringed and cut for proper squish my build will probably be held up for another month or so which is effing phenomenal!!!
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Well Buckeye, are you using that head or what is going on with your build. Have you started to put it back together.
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I stand corrected...
The explanation I gave was told to me from a team Hon#% rider... Thanks jerry for the straightening out (Y)
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So, faster moving coolant in the Zilla engine. Good or bad? No explanation needed. P*
Stock coolant flow rate has always been good enough for the way I build the Zillas.
If the velocity of the coolant flowing over surfaces inside the water jacket is too high it could create hot spots where the flow detaches from the surface as it flow around corners or ill shaped surfaces.
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So, faster moving coolant in the Zilla engine. Good or bad? No explanation needed. P*
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The modification is to mimic the passageways like the oem head gasket did. The restriction in coolant flow allows the coolant to stay in the passageway longer to extract the heat out of the cylinder/head.
Reducing the size of some of the coolant passageways between the cylinder and head forces more coolant to flow around the sides of the cylinder and enter the head near the rear of the cylinder. If the head gasket or some of the coolant passage ways did not force the water to take another path, coolant would enter the cylinder on the right side of the exhaust port and go straight up into the head outlet and return to the radiator.
Keeping the coolant in the passageways longer does not extract more heat from the head and cylinder. It reduces the amount of heat that can flow from the head and cylinder to the coolant because the coolant becomes slightly hotter and closer to the same temperature as the cylinder when the flow rate is reduced.
Heat always flows from a hot body to a cooler body. If both bodies are the same temperature heat transfer WILL NOT OCCUR. Increasing the DIFFERENCE in temperature between two bodies or substances increases the quantity of heat transferred from the hot body to the cold body. Heat is transferred by conduction, convection and radiation.
Examples:
Conduction occurs when you heat one end of a metal bar and a short time later the other end of the metal bar gets hot. Heat is conducted from one end to the other. Heat transfer by conduction travels at a speed that depends upon the coefficient of conductivity. Metals that conduct heat very well usually conduct electricity very well.
Heat transfer by radiation is occurring when you instantly feel heat being emitted from a very hot surface before the air space between you and the hot object has had time to rise. Heat transfer by radiation travels at the speed of light.
Convective heat transfer requires a hot body and some type of gas or liquid flowing over the surface to carry away heat. Convective heat transfer gets more complicated because it simultaneously involves conduction and radiation.
Convective heat transfer depends primarily upon the velocity of the medium flowing over a hot surface. Air flowing through the cooling fins of an air-cooled engine is an example of convective heat transfer. If we increase the velocity of air flowing THROUGH the fins, more heat is removed from the engine.
I probably should not go into heat transfer any deeper because it took those of us that are engineers at least two semesters of thermodynamics and one semester of fluid mechanics, to grasp and try to master some to of the concepts of heat transfer. Before we could take thermo and fluid mechanics and we had to take 5 semesters of high-level math.
I can possibly field some basic questions as long as it doesn't require some of the above prerequisites for one to be able to understand the concept I am trying to convey.
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No shiznit Rider414!!!
+k2 D?
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I just want Buckeye to finish this damn build so he can ride his Zilla!!!
FOR THE LOVE OF GOD!!!
-->
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Optical illusion? Or how many brews have you had?
Your digital calipers is your friend, those pesky o ring recesses messing with your mind! +k2
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Their was a difference in the heads for the years, same is for the 250 the e 1 has smaller done usally came on a 87 e2 had a larger dome that came on the later years. I have different head for my 250. My 87 had the small dome and my 91 has the larger dome and my 88 has the larger dome. It is the way Suzuki done them.I dont know why they change them.
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Thanks Jerry and Dez! Now why does the o ringed heads dome look so much smaller than my heads dome?
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The modification is to mimic the passageways like the oem head gasket did. The restriction in coolant flow allows the coolant to stay in the passageway longer to extract the heat out of the cylinder/head.
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Ok well I figured that 250 theory was probably wrong. What explains the difference between the two heads coolant ports or water jackets or whatever they're called? Why is the o ringed head have way more small holes and my head has large opening with only two small holes?
They have been welded up and re-drilled.
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Ok well I figured that 250 theory was probably wrong. What explains the difference between the two heads coolant ports or water jackets or whatever they're called? Why is the o ringed head have way more small holes and my head has large opening with only two small holes?
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The more I think about it I'm pretty sure the head I have might be a 250 head because the dome size compared to my original picture of my 500 head and the dome size of the head I have now. It also fits on my cylinder but my cylinder lip has like 1-2mm all the way around of over hang (where the head is to small to match up with the edges of my cylinder).
A 250 head will not fit the 500-bolt pattern. The outside diameter of the head gets smaller as the head gasket surface is machined. Measure the thickness of the head where the head nuts seat. A stock head is about .800" thick at this point. I do not like to use heads that will be thinner than about .675" at this point when they are finished.
Small pits on the surface of the combustion chamber are not uncommon and are nothing to worry about. The small pits are from impurities and gas bubbles in the casting. Some head castings are worst than others. Occasionally we encounter a large pit that was below the original surface when porting a cylinder or machining a head.. Most of the time we can weld up the pit. I have had to throw away a couple of heads that could not be repaired.
The pictures show some discoloration and what appears to be coolant stains or rubber remnants from prior usage in the o-ring grooves. “ Freshly" machined surfaces will usually have a bright shinny look and not stained or have the dull look like the head in the picture.
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The more I think about it I'm pretty sure the head I have might be a 250 head because the dome size compared to my original picture of my 500 head and the dome size of the head I have now. It also fits on my cylinder but my cylinder lip has like 1-2mm all the way around of over hang (where the head is to small to match up with the edges of my cylinder).
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Great to hear things are being taken care of ....
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The head doesn't look cut much, if any like Chuckie stated.
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No clue what it might have looked like previously because its not mine.
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Doesn't look to have been cut much unless the pits were really bad
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Pictures of the dome in the head I recieved.
Edit: added a picture of the dome of my head, notice the difference in the coolant ports. I guess that's the difference between a head stamped EK-1 and EK-2 mine was EK-2.
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Yeah Matt is working to make it right and find my head.
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Geez man that sucks. If it was opened when Matt got it from her chances are she took things out to try and screw with him even more......what a sorry ass. Hearing crap like that makes me even more glad to be happily divorced.
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The bad news about my parts and package is Matt packed the box then it was in Tiffany's possession and was opened when he got it back from her. My gut is telling me she jacked with the contents.
oh hell...... lets hope everything gets squared off..
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The bad news about my parts and package is Matt packed the box then it was in Tiffany's possession and was opened when he got it back from her. My gut is telling me she jacked with the contents.
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I'll post pictures of my cylinder and carb tonight Dez sorry to disappoint I was very discouraged to say the least after opening what I thought was my top end to find I needed to order more parts I already paid for and that I got someone else's beat up poor shape head instead of mine which was in really good shape.
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Man I was hoping to see pics of your freshly machined parts...
I'm pulling for ya buck as I'm sure others here feel the same!
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Will when I get to the shop after work
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Take a picture of dome. Should be able to tell you if the dome has been changed.
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Well no progress other than I recieved some of my parts Saturday. I recieved a head but its not mine and is missing the vent screw and gasket from the top of it. I recieved no o rings no 99rm wrist pin bearing and no billet thrust washers all of these things I paid for. No word on where my head is or if anything was done to it. Can't tell on the head I recieved if its squish corrected or not. Port work looks good carb was bored nicely cylinder was bored to 87.5mm. Pictured below is the head I sent followed by the head I recieved.
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Saturday is booked for the family to Coney Island my only day off work. I'll be at the shop Saturday night and likely the wee hours of the morning tonight as well.
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I will be able to stop over whenever on Saturday to help. I probably won't be able to today because I've got a date after work. I might be able to late depending on how long you work on it.
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Glad your parts are coming.Did you find out what level of oactange to use with your setup.
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Work just gets in the way of the more important things in life...
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Thanks Jay I'm so excited I almost just wanna call in sick to work tomorrow!! Lol can't rush though gotta find a leak down tester to check everything once I'm reassembled and I need to get my jets from the local atv shop that stocks mikuni jets for the tm38. Gotta get my airbox welded up.
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He's in a really bad place right now.. Most of us have been in his shoes. She tried to get his entire business shutt down, and nearly succeeded.
I'm happy that he finally got your stuff out Derrick, good luck on the re-assemble!!
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Yeah it sucks I've been in his shoes but not to the extent that he's dealing with since I didn't work with my ex. BTW got those hubs today too thanks again for the smooth transaction Chrisr!
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Glad your parts are on the way. Hate it for Matt.....a woman can really screw things up.
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I'm just thankful it's on it's way. Tiffany really screwed Matt over bad and he's in a rough spot but he's doing his best to fix her messes and put out the fires she started.
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Yeah now I'm nervous I'm gonna screw up the engine reassembly since its been like 4 months since I took it apart! Motoman might be coming to the shop tomorrow night to give me a hand if not ill just stick to the manual and not rush it.
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Right on! You'll be burning gas in no time... (Y)
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Great news today!!!! It shipped!!!! Will be delivered tomorrow and I'll be up all night putting it together!!!
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Hood and diamond plate the first diamond plate is for my airbox the second is 1/4" for skid plates.
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These cracks were repaired with MA300 they still need ground down and sanded. The hood is getting painted and there were more spots fixed on it than just this one spot.
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I put the bracket on the polish wheel tonight fixed some cracks in my plastics too pictures below. Also ordered the intake tube and outlet tube for my airbox. Pictures of my diamond plate coming as well.
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The bracket is for an led light mount
http://www.suzukiquadracerhq.com/lt500-general-discussion/chrisg-led-light-arrived/
I received donations from 3 members here to purchase the light for testing. For their help I made up some light brackets (wish they would have turned out better, next ones will be nicer) to repay the donors for giving me the light. Thanks again buck, westtexasking, quadman8 (Y)
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Btw what is the bracket for from dez?
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Jerry to answer your question my engines run much better with the amsoil dominator (thinner) than the 927 which I think is due to us not constantly running WFO all the time cause were in the woods and hills. They don't load up is what im tryin to say.
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Like Ell Diablo said.
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Not in your gas tank if you are riding.... -->
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Yeah that's the thing 927 will separate in the Sunoco 112 that's available locally to me.
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Id rather run my gas straight then run amsoil! :) 927 or r-50 for me i mix 5 gallons at a time never seperates. i run vp110/c-12 mix tho.
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that's in my 250 I should've mentioned.. my 500 I run straight 110 with aimsoil
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ive been mixing 2gal of Sunoco 110 with 2gal of 91 ethanol free pump gas 2c, aimsoil dominator
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I wouldn't mix anything with pump gas that contains Ethanol. I don't know about your area but around here ethanol can vary from 10% up to 20% depending on where you pump it from That makes your mix way too inconsistant. And hope you don't suffer and phase seperation
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If you only mix up what you can use in a trip, then you can get away with not needing the pump gas, especially in 80 degree temps.
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I'm a spoiled **** my dad will buy my fuel when I need it.
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All this talk of race fuel is making my wallet hurt lol. Straight pump gas for the win.
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Jerry what's your opinion if I'm running Sunoco 112 and 927 is adding the 93 gonna keep it mixed especially if you factor in I'll be running most of the time above 80 degrees.
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Amsoil Dominator and castor 927 both great stuff ! But 927 is a good bit more expensive and it was actually too thick for my likings so I would go with Amsoil if I were you. D?
Amsoil Dominator and castor 927 both great stuff ! But 927 is a good bit more expensive and it was actually too thick for my likings so I would go with Amsoil if I were you. D?
It really does not matter what we think about the thickness of the oil. What does your engine think about the thinner oil???
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According to Maxima's website it's an issue with any fuel with a specific gravity lower than .730. I'll likely just use AmsOil dominator their site doesn't say anything about fuel specific gravity or separation at certain temperatures. And I mixing the 93 pump gas in to save a little cash especially since I'll be going with a 112 octane rating race fuel.
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Buckeye you only have to put 1 quart jar of gas in 5 gallons of racefuel with the 927 to keep it mixed. I thought you only had to worry about it when its cold. I ride around 3,700 feet above sea level and never had any problems with the castor.Mix you up a gallon pour enough in a quart jar and let it sit for awhile and see how well it stay mixed. But dont mess with the jar to shake it back up. Just to test to see how it does. But you would have to worry about it in the winter. But i havent had any problems or you can use Maxxis hi test octange booster with castor to keep it mixed. I would findout you octange level need for you motor after it finshed. You dont want to burn a hole in the new piston from not having enough octange in your Zilla.
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-->..... Amsoil it is !! lol
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927 separates in gas with a specific gravity lower than .730 and the Sunoco I'll be running is .713 specific gravity I guess the 93 mixed in would make it have a higher specific gravity and stay mixed.
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Amsoil Dominator and castor 927 both great stuff ! But 927 is a good bit more expensive and it was actually too thick for my likings so I would go with Amsoil if I were you. D?
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Gonna be running Sunoco supreme 112 octane. Running type f tranny fluid in the gears and tranny. Thinking either 927 or AmsOil for 2 stroke oil. Probably gonna 50/50 or 75/25 race gas to 93 pump gas to help keep the 2 stroke oil blended in the fuel and save some money.
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Bracket I received from Dez. Gonna hit it with polish and put a shine to it. Dez is such a good dude he wouldn't let me pay him anything for this no matter how much I insisted. Thanks again Dez good to know quality people still exist in this world.
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And I'll concede that definitely doesn't count plenty of more races to run your bike against mine in the months to come.
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Yeah I thought I got him too. The re run I started in the wrong gear and still almost ran him down.
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Well, you did see it haha. Didn't see it move too well lol. Your Zilla isn't back together yet so that doesn't count hahaha.
I still think you beat that 450.
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I was eager to see his bike too but after a couple practice runs I could tell something was up with either his clutch or tranny mainly because he wasn't even staying close to me on my dads kfx. Haha didn't have to go far to have my ass... wait wait wait that didn't work out! Lol
The 4 snow tires were decent we had them mounted in direction with the rotation arrows which I later learned isn't how you're supposed to mount them. I could tell a difference in my dads bike vs his hole shots I normally run. And the tires were expanding and rubbing on his heal guard/nerf bars.
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That sucks Motoman i was wanting to see your quad in action.
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i had a fun time. I enjoyed seeing the bikes and quads run. You can see my brother and I in the Rotax video around 7 seconds holding our ears lol. My LT has some sort of issue. Clutch was acting up then it wouldn't stay in second gear. I was beat by about a quad length to a Honda 250R while keeping it in just first gear. I'll be taking off the clutch cover tomorrow. I'm sure the clutch is toasted. I could see shavings in the tranny fluid.
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Yeah motoman ran too he was having tranny or clutch issues I'll let him explain what was going on with his bike. End of August might be doable normally run on 300ft drags these were 150 and all about the hole shot.
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Buck did Motoman ride today with you. Hey you should come down to the drag race at the end of August in my area. 2 strokes v 2 stroke and pokes vs pokes. It about the same as what you was doing their or a little longer if your intersted il find out more info about it. Looks like fun you was having today.
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Here's one of me racing a kfx450r on my dads kfx400
http://youtu.be/sE97Y8TJkqs
My brother running his buell xb9r
http://youtu.be/BsFm7kdEoGY
The rotax 900 we think that won it all.
http://youtu.be/oT4PrsckUmU
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Get some video motorman and buckeye
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The track is only 150ft? Shiiiiit. Hopefully the two stroke class is small so I can win hahaha.
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$120 for new set of pro wedges.
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Gonna run them tomorrow on some 150 ft drags at a field meet on my dads kfx400. Also motoman is going too and gonna be running his hybrid will likely bolt them in his bike too and see how they do. (This is all provided the rain doesn't shut down the drags) I'd like to get some pro wedges they're just super hard to find and I thought $100 for brand new tires and itp aluminum rims was a pretty good deal.
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You don't have to but it your gonna be bouncing off rocks and rough trails it's a good idea too. And I've heard or rather read the same about the 4 snow.
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Im interested to see how snows do ive had guys tell me your better off to throw ure money in toilet then buy 4 snows. ive personally never ran them. Lmk how they work. I dont run my prowedges they get super sketchy at 90mph when they blow up.
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Damn $20 for axle spacer??? i made aarona40 a set of ss axle spacers for free. and you dont need beadlock for prowedges i run 2lbs in all my quad tires and havenever in my life popped a rear bead.
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250RWV I'm running razor 2's on the front for trails and drags I'll be running mud sharks that are pictured on my roller now and I'll run the 4 snow 2 ply snow paddles for drag racing.
Thanks guys the guy I bought them off has two sets of paddles one with rims one without both have only been to silver lake once. $70 for the ones without rims and $100 with. Gonna pick up the paddles with rims in a week or two if he still has them.
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Yep you did good on those tires you beat the pro wedges price by $20. (Y)
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That's a killer deal on those tires.
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. Need a 2 ply for drag racing they expand 40% which makes you go faster down the strip.
Use something for trail riding a little stiffer. Maybee 2 different sets, one for drag and one trail riding. I like 6 ply for the tight hard turns. Make the quad handle so much better. I had a set on the front that didnt have a high ply rating and they rolled over really bad on this little wood track we made. Switch over Razr 2s on the front and x rex on the back both 6 ply. It was crazy how much better the quad handles the tight turn of this little track. Or you use the tires that came with your quad as trail tires. Are you going to use 2 ply front and back for drag racing or just the back.
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Update on the seat it's delayed, my dad got called into work tomorrow when he was planning on putting the pattern together.
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$100 tires still have $68.22 price stickers on them. Rims are lt450r itp aluminum.
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No man my schedule is so jaked until after the second week of August it's ridiculous. Between my day job then the upholstery business at night and weekends and squeezing in drag meets and 30th birthday parties and bachelor party. I'm going with the brand new 4 snow's on Ltz rims so gonna be picking up a set of z hubs. I have brand new mud sharks on now and brand new razor 2's in the front. Need a 2 ply for drag racing they expand 40% which makes you go faster down the strip.
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Any progess with your seat yet. I like the x rex tire made by Gbc which their not called that anymore. But they hook up really well. On the road or dirt. I had ambushes on my 250r and all they did was spin in mub or on the road. Also when you get your quad back up and running you going to do the July ride in Wv.
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Twinzilla how much for the rims?
Don't be tempted !! lol Im tellin ya it'll be worth running the 4/110 pattern hubs!
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Twinzilla how much for the rims?
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Yes they'll fit the 500 axle. I also have a set of 5-lug 8" blue labels if you get those other tires.
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LT500 axle is 26 spline and the LTR450 & the Z400 hub are a direct fit, though the LTR hubs will give you another .75" wider and you can buy .375 spacers from durablue for $20 to get another .75" for a over all 1.5" wider axle with just the hub swap.
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They fit the 26 spline 250 axle for sure. I can't say for sure on the 500 as I don't own one so I never researched it. Hopefully someone who knows for sure will chime in.
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I might a set of z400 hubs. I will check sometime today.
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Chris do those work with the stock zilla axle splines? Or would I need to get a different rear axle with different splines?
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Pro wedge II only come in 8" bud. Also you will definitely want to get beadlocks for them as they are only a 2 ply tire and if you want them to hook up really well I think they say 4lbs of air that's it lol. If I were I would definitely pick up a set of z400 hubs so you have the really common 4/110 pattern and a set of rear beadlocks for the pro wedges. That way you can then get couple used cheap set of rims for all your other tires and it will be easier to swap out paddles too so maybe you can check out this place with us too. [|] http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mv1J2nWae3U
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I got a set of z400 hubs I'm not going to use. Decided to keep the 24 spline axle and get a set of banshee rear hubs. Anyways........the guy I got them from painted them and obviously didn't clean them well cause they got fisheyes so they will need to be repainted. Threads on the studs are good, no lug nuts. $30.00 shipped priority mail.......that's what I'm in them for. Just let me know.
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Good point 250RWV
Anyway I need either a set if z400 rear hubs for a good price or a set of 5 lug 10x9 rims cause these 4 snow tires are 22x10x9. I'm also talking to a local banshee drag guy who has wedge II's so I might get them instead if they're in good shape and the right price.
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This isnt the first time they've had "personal issues"
I thought I remembered something a long while back they were having issues.
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My wife and I have worked together with no problems for over 3 years D?
Wasn't saying it couldn't be done and work out great but there are people who can't check there personal problems at the door when it comes to family working together.
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My wife and I have worked together with no problems for over 3 years D?
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The inability to keep personal problems at home and outta the work place has been the breakup of many marriages and businesses when working with family.
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This isnt the first time they've had "personal issues"
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Pro wedge II are only 8" I forgot to mention that ::).
*Update on MHR*
Ok I feel re-assured on my end of the situation!! I just got off the phone with Matt himself. Him and Tiffany are having personal issues, and is not working with Matt anymore so we' leave it at that.
My swingarm is done and it will be going out Monday along with the rest of my front clip parts. (Y) ;D :) :-*
The top end still needs bored and then it will also be done.
If the things he says about my parts going out next week is true and they look good I will be one happy man and will take the stuff I said about the business back and will support him to an extent.
Buckeye he even mentioned your situation on his own! Said a guy is giving him big problems on a 500 motor. I was ehh wouldn't happen to be buckeye would it? He said ya and Im getting his stuff taken care of so your parts should be coming soon. D?
Im not gonna Hi^ anymore but I'm glad to say maybe Tiff getting her sorry ass outta there will be for the best ?
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You need 10" diameter 5-lugs?
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Found my drag tires. Getting a set of 4 snow's with the shipping wrapper still on them tonight they're mounted on z400 rims giving $100 for tires and rims guy just had them mounted on the rims Wednesday. Still in need of a set of 5 lug 10x9 rims unless someone has a cheap set of z400 rear hubs they'd part with?? If the z400 hubs work with the zilla stock axle spline.
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Thanks Dez! This cover is gonna be pretty simple I think not sure if I wanna do something extravagant with it or not still working on different pattern ideas.
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Looking good buck...
Can't wait to see your seat cover!
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I like the gold and blue Wvu Mountaineers
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Thanks man! I'm painting the hood black until I can afford to buy a new black one. There will be zero blue on the bike, blue and yellow scream loser to me cause I'm a Buckeye fanatic and those are meshitagain's colors.
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Quad is looking real nice.Are you going to keep the blue hood.The black frame and yellow looks good with the original color plastics. You done a good job on your restore.
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Well since I'm at a stand still on the engine mocked up plastics yesterday to get some lines for the seat cover design and decide on graphics. Also got started fabbing the airbox.
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Try and get a little positive vibe on my build since there's so much drama and poor business practices going on with my top end. My fabric for my seat arrived today and my dads gonna start on some pattern options and should have my seat done on Saturday. The fabric is a faux carbon fiber weave marine grade vinyl. The yellow will have black stitching at the seems.
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Mitch I understand I'm not the first person to have this happen. At this point I just want my parts back finished or not I don't care because having all this happen how can I trust that the work was done properly at all. People that lie to their customers (the people who pay their bills) are on the same level as thieves in my book and aren't to be trusted.
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Buck your not the only one who has had to wait, I went to Tudors a few years ago, it took him over a year to do the engine, Last April he e mailed me that I had cases there that had the inserts done and asked for payment, but the case needed some smaller repairs also, I said sure paid him up front and still haven't received my cases. Im about to file through Pay Pal, I have not meet one builder here in so cal that kept there word on turnaround time, We quote a standard 4 weeks lead time on parts we produce, and ask if we can ship early if done sooner, 9 out of 10 orders we ship are in 2 weeks and that what keeps our customers returning, if we are running late then we call or e mail the customer with details and with a new lead time.
Again its just simple customer service
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God I hope so!! Being a partial owner of a small business and employee in a customer service/service driven industry it makes me wonder how MHR is still in business. Although maybe that's why I was billed on May 29th bills due on the 1st was probably a little short so "your parts are ready pay now" was a quick way to make ends meet is all I can come up with.
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Hopefully he has your stuff done for the silver lk trip in August.
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Well tomorrow makes two weeks that I paid for the work to be done on my top end and carb by MHR, it still hasn't been shipped to me. Was supposed to be racing this weekend had my parts shipped when I was originally billed for them and told they had shipped I probably would be racing on Father's Day instead I'll be lucky if my parts are even in my possession let alone on my bike. My parts were sent out March 17th delivered to MHR March 19th. So in 8 days marks 3 months for what was quoted to be a 30 day turnaround. Lesson learned don't shop by price in the future cause you get what you pay for an apparently my money bought me deception and lies about when my parts were finished and when they'd be sent to me and a complete lack of customer service or desire to get my parts out as expeditiously as possible. Next time I'll spend more and have the work done by someone capable of completing work within 3 months.
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yea, i agree grk, that boot will not seal well without the help of some sealant. I had my boot ported by DrQ and the surface of the boot was slightly grooved and leaked air like crazy.
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Well just got the tracking for my cylinder, head and carb that I thought shipped out Friday. Turns out it just shipped out today. Fantastic! (Sarcasm)
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I didn't cut the sealing surface but I'm gonna leak test the motor before first fire.
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and looks like he cut the sealing surface too. i dont think i would use that boot.
you better leak test that motor with that boot first.
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I don't have directions my cage is used I got advice from Badmoonracing and some pictures of his boot.
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yeah they have a very small lip, those just looked like you chewed on them
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Vforce directions say not to cut them flush.
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i thought your supposed to cut them flush with a hack saw.
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Thanks Dez wait till I get the motor finished. Polishing the clutch cover going with black cylinder and cases and a yellow head. The motor is the plastic and blue bomb on the table in the background.
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Buck your roller is looking sweet! That chrome pipe & the black is a great combo
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They seat into the cage and help direct fuel and air flow into the cage instead of fuel and air hitting the flat part of the cage and having to find its way into the opening. I took a little to much off mine don't use a dull razor blade use a fresh brand new razor and take a little off at a time and fit back up its a process I should've taken my time but like I said earlier patience isn't my strong suit.
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Why not just cut them completely off ?
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Here's my reed boot. I hacked it pretty good probably a little to much but it holds the cage on still and fits snug inside the cage opening. This was done with the assistance of Badmoonracing.
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Got some **** done on the zilla tonight. Wrong clutch hub from Jason but he's already in process of correcting. Really good customer service from him. I will refer all my friends and anyone from this site to use Honda east. But minus that set back got all the brake lines plumbed new rear brake pads on radiator coated in ceramic and grill painted. Handle bars on alignment done have about 1/2"-3/4" of bump steer through full droop. New clutch lever and cable mounted light/kill switch on. Head light is on in the pics but I'm only gonna run it until I can afford something else really makes the bike look old and shitty. Oh also will post a picture of my modified reed boot to fit the V2 reed cage. Also mocked up the Q pipe for a photo.
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Finally got my gears off my old basket and on the Hinson basket last night. Jerry's 9 plate Barnett clutch is still at my office yet to be picked up. Clutch hub cable and pro taper lever should be here Saturday hopefully. Holy crap I'm getting impatient and eager to get this motor together and back on the bike and fire it up!! I have zero patience so this waiting **** is really driving me up a wall!!! Oh and u ordered all my gaskets should've done that weeks ago I really let that one slip through the cracks. They'll be here in 4-5 days straight from cometic.
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Ill make sure to remember that.
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Good luck bud! Dont get excited and forget to put the pv retaining bolt in the bottom of the jug BEFORE you seal her up! Dont ask how i know lol.
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Thanks man should have all my engine components this week so hopefully I'll be doing first fire this weekend! There's no smiley with his fingers crossed but that's what I'm doing! Lol
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looking great B.E.!! Keep up the good work man!! +k2
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Hey Dez I'll trade you my front end setup with the camber shims shocks a arms tie rods and all for your front end set up!? That's a sweet deal right there! Lol
I got front brakes mounted and plumbed yesterday cleaned up the rear caliper and I'm missing two clips that go in it. When I got the bike the back brake pads were gone guy gave me a new set with it but the two shim pieces that go in to help hold the pads in are gone. Wonder if there's any aftermarket for those pieces or I'll probably have to buy oem through Jason.
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The camber shim mod looks great. If I had seen these first I probably wouldn't have gone with the metaltech arms.
Looking sweet dude!
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More shots of the roller with sub frame mounted. The alignment is off but I left the tie rods loose cause I knew I'd be adjusting them once it was on the ground anyway. You can see in the picture Mitch's camber spacers doing their thing to correct the camber. Oh I also did the bump steer mod by flipping the tie rod horns to the bottom side of the spindle. You can see even with the tie rods loose they're basically parallel with the a arms.
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I got it helps if you put it in the right way! I'm too effin tired! But hey I got a roller!!! Still needs adjusting all over pretty much but it's rolling!
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It's easier supposedly if you use a tie down from a rafter and pick up the rear end until the bolt lines up with the chingaderas...
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Now I have the bolts turned around and it's an even bigger **** to mount the shock!!
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Lol... Disregard everything I just posted, my eyes are blind from the flash burns from welding
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Thanks kennerz that's how I had it mounted the problem though was I had the two cushion lever mounting bolts in from the wrong damn side so the bolts were hanging up on the swing arm which is why it looks jacked up in the pictures. I under stand what you're saying though and that's how I had it cause I had a hell of a time getting it to mount up.
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I think you need to rotate the shock mount 180* so it's closer to the ground....the pic shows it in the up position
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Just to verify the two holes on the cushion lever eccentric kennerz was talking about should be on the bottom or toward the ground like pictured here in the manual right? Because this is how I had it mounted but I'm remounting it because I left the chain buffer off and I'm working on it right now so someone please respond quick! Lol
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That sucks dude. Yeah I'm not gonna be happy with this build and will be tearing it back down next winter to change some things. My ultimate plan is to have a different cylinder, head and piston and a separate rear end setup complete swing arm shock/strut jj&a axle and drag tires. That way I can have a drag setup and a trail setup and its as easy as swapping cylinder, head and piston and rear end to have a completely different bike basically.
It's that or I find a rolling yfz450 or ltr450 or trx450 and swap in a lt500 kx500 or cr500 engine and have a trail bike hybrid and make my zilla a designated drag only bike.
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Yeah i got 6 screws and one plate now. This was supposed to be my first real ride on my 500 since i bought it. Looks like late july now. Your builds lookin good! Just keep at the details and youll be real happy with the end result.
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Nice I'll probably do the bump steer once I get it on 4 wheels and adjust the alignment of the front end. There's a video I think chevyvetter did on YouTube about correcting the bump steer and what you're after I watched way back when I was in tear down mode. I'll have to revisit that video to try and keep your crippled ass planted lol. Sorry to hear about your ankle that sucks my brother shattered his 4 summers ago and wa down till about September after 3 surgeries a 2 plates and 7 screws.
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The aftermarket tie rods wont change the geometry of the front suspension unless there is some kind of offset built into the tie rod ends. The easy way to check is to see if the tie rods are parallel to the lower a arms. I compared my zilla to my yfz when i did mine. I try to get some pics posted to show you what im talking about. I just have to hobble my ass down to the shed to look. I was supposed to be riding all weekend but i fell 16 feet onto concrete and shattered my ankle last week. Looks like ill be on here a lot for the next month or two. Lol
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Thanks kennerz I'll double check that. I have to unmount the shock and swinger to put the chain buffer on that I forgot to do.
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I haven't done the bump steer mod yet because I have ASR pro x tie rods and I'm not sure if I'll need to do it or not. But I'm pretty sure it's just tight cause there's no weight on it. I didn't powder coat my stem but now that I think about it I didn't grease the bottom bushing and I think I over tightened it.
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On the steering binding.. Did you ever do the bump steer mod? I didnt see if you had completed it or not. I just flipped the outer tie rod ends to the underside of the spindles and reset my toe. Also did you get the stem pc'd? It might be tight at the stem clamp area. I notice my steering was a lil tight before i reset my toe and got my bike sittin down with weight on it.
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That question doesn't make any sense.
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Did u use the stock axle the clip on axel is on the brreak side?
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So last night I remounted my steering stem with the freshly painted radiator mount. Something I'm noticing is its pretty difficult to turn. Is this just because the suspension is at full drop and my tie rods are basically just mocked up and tightened down or should I be worried something is binding up?
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Right on dude, it's almost a roller! Bumper looks killer
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Got the rear axle and carrier installed hubs aren't on they're just slid on for the picture. Also installed the front bumper.
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Just ordered Jerry's 9 plate Barnett clutch setup. Getting a new clutch hub, 85-86 250r clutch springs, clutch cable and lever from Jason. I'm t minus two weeks roughly away from having everything together and doing the first fire if all goes to plan and nothing major comes up.
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No kidding, thanks man I'm on the home stretch can't wait to fire it up for the first time.
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Hahaha!! Buck!! I'm with the Tampa One Hour/Ben Franklin office! Small world. Zilla is coming together well!
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I went with the z400 spindles so I'm not able to answer that...
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What about doing the bump steer mod? Think with these tie rods it's necessary?
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Yeah from what I can see the bottom 'mis alignment' spacer is right (Y) +k2
I waited to get the ride height set then adjust tie rods, someone else might have a better suggestion.
In my experience if your not able to use a cotter key, like on your tie rod nuts, I'd use blue (serviceable) locktite.
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Do they look like I got them mounted right? Also any idea how to align the front end or should I wait to dial them in for when its on its tires?
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Tie rods look sweet, heims are trick (Y)
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And here's me pushing my bum cart!
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Got the steering stem and tie rods on tonight not sure if I have them on right or not but it turns. How the hell do you align the front end with these American Star racing tie rods? Pictures coming soon.
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Thanks Dez! Should have the carrier and rear axle mounted with the front and rear breaks in the next couple of days then its down off the bum cart and on its own 4 feet again.
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Buck your almost there man! Takes time to resurrect one of these relics. Lots o pics (Y) great job!
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Last but not least from tonight... Stay off my bum cart dang it!!!
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And more pictures cause apparently my phone takes humongous file sized pictures!
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Still more pictures!!
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More pictures from tonight.
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Well busy weekend derailed the full roller yet again! But I did put the finishing touches on polishing the swing arm and got the rear shock bearings and seals replaced and all the cushion lever bearings and seals replaced and swinger/shock/cushion all mounted! So I'm reassembling the rear axle and putting the carrier back in the swinger installing the steering stem and tie rods away from a full roller!
Here's some swinger shots.
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Well plans to get anything accomplished last night were squashed by work. Damn 16 hour days!
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I sanded my swinger down after taking that picture and started over on polishing its still not perfect or probably ever going to be show quality polished but it looks better and the bike isn't gonna be for show and it looks good to me. I'll post a picture tomorrow after I hit it with a few more passes on the polishing wheel.
Motoman you're more than welcome to come give me a hand whenever you are free. The bike is at my brothers shop off mt Carmel tobasco rd.
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I want to see this bike in person when it's finished. I can probably lend a hand assembling it also.
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paint it jet black.
There is way too many imperfections in the stock swinger to make it look good unless you want to spend months prepping it. Then another month polishing it to a mirror finish.
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looks like you be better off doing a brush look on that swinger,
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Well thanks to Jason being mr speedy with my parts order I should hopefully have a roller by Monday! Got a couple more passes to make of polishing on my swing arm might also have my rear axle hardware and rotor and sprocket mounts powder coated if I do that I'll have a full chassis minus rear axle and wheels come Monday.
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Now you tell me!! I have 3 cans of that **** in my cabinet!
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It needs sanded down there's a lot of deep scratches from me air tool wire wheeling the oem coating off.
Aircraft paint remover will work on anodized coatings like the swingarm. I learned that trick when I did my frame on a GSXR 600 back in the day.
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It needs sanded down there's a lot of deep scratches from me air tool wire wheeling the oem coating off.
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Keep polishing, your getting there. Takes a lot of time.
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Amateur at best looking but it looks better than it did here's the swinger. I could've done better just getting impatient at this point and it looks way better than it did before.
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Well still don't have a roller, polishing the swing arm was a lot of time I didn't account for. Front ball joints and spindles are on with Mitch's camber spacers (which might I add at full suspension drop make contact with the spindles and cause a bit of a bind).
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Dez that second sentence you wrote might as well be in Spanish my man!
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That looks like a nice set up. High mis-alignment spacers allow even more articulation if your running long travel suspension!
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Got my American star racing tie rods and heim joints today. I'm clueless on how these get installed they're nowhere near as simple as a tie rod end from what I'm looking at. Oh and not installation instructions.
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Bret that bike puts mine to shame, plus mine will have a stock polished swinger and polished case covers and a way cooler seat.
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Looks nice, Rockstar #2
(http://www.quadracerhq.com/Sonnyboy-rockstar.jpg)
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Thanks Dez! More to come this weekend hopefully I'm at full roller status I know ill at least be front roller status. Depends on if I get the swinger polished or not.
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Way cool P* P* _^_
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Front end re-assembly has begun!!!
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Picked up my wheels and hubs today from powder coat. Wheels and hubs done for $50 $200 for frame a arms and pegs so $250 total in powder coat cost.
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The black and yellow looks sharp!!
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Lol. It's a great build.
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I only navigate this site from my iPhone and it won't let me resize them but yes I realize they're enormous! Lol
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Looks good. Did you realize your pics are enormous?
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My first polishing job!! I'm addicted!! Gonna likely polish my swing arm!! Before and after below.
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Fresh from powder coat!! Rims and hubs are getting done next week didn't have my tired off and need to press the wheel bearings out and blast the hubs. All done will have $300 in sand blasting and powder coating.
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Ill also be running this front bumper not the one on that bike pictured.
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Real nice. If you can get you hands on some stock stickers, you can have them reproduced, changing the blues for black and grey. Just a thought. Any reasonable detail on the plastic would really set it off. That is a very sharp Zilla.
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Someone else is bank rolling it but the cost of Elkas is insane especially considering I'm not going to be mx'ing it every week.
Happy to say Rogue put together a rendering for me based off someone else's bike that is set up a lot like mine will be as far as pipe polished case and case saver. Let me know what you think. I plan on cutting my plastics but not doing anything crazy.
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If someone else is paying you should have went with elka!!!! -->
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I went with the banshee shocks because there was more of a selection and the shocks I got are off an 05 banshee so they're like 20 years newer than my stock ones and they were only $74 before shipping.
And my pockets feel fine my father is bank rolling this rebuild I'm just doing all the work.
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Is there a reason you went with the Banshee shocks over the adjustable OEM Zilla front shocks? -->
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Are your pockets feeling light yet?
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My used Q v1 pipe arrived today. I sent my cylinder, head and carb out for a port job cylinder bore, machine the head and o ring it and bore the stock mikuni carb. Machine work should take about a month to get my stuff back in that time I plan on getting my frame back to a roller with all new bearings, seals, ball joints, tie rods, front shocks, custom aluminum air box and all the other goodies. Still am hung up on color scheme. Have yellow fenders and blue hood and don't want to buy new plastics in a different color. My brother does auto body work and promises me there's a paint we can use in the plastics that won't chip or peal.
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So more parts on the way. Q V1 pipe will be delivered this weekend or next week, and I just picked up a pair of banshee front shocks with yellow springs but those will be blasted and powder coated if I ever can decide on a color scheme.
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Bad but the gears are good, still gotta get a hub too.
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Nice basket.....
How bad was the old one?
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Hinson clutch basket arrived today!!
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Had the frame sand blasted for $50 a local company does industrial blasting and the guy had the entire frame stripped in 20 minutes as he was stripping a crane. I soda blasted the stator/flywheel cover and head. Plan on soda blasting the rest of the cases and covers gonna seal them and plug holes with high temp silicone it peals right off aluminum.
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Sorry we got off track and were talking bout a different crack for a second there
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Haha ill be sure to triple check everything when I'm done media blasting it. It was pretty well taken care of by the previous owner as far as riding seems like he barely rode it and just let it sit in his pole barn for the majority of its life.
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if he finds crack after the build we may be able to get her real cheap.
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cool would hate to see you get it painted and then find crack after
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Crack free Grk!! Gave up drugs a long time ago!! Haha
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Stripped!!! Gonna get blasted this weekend or next then off to powder coat!
dont forget to look for cracks, rt foot peg, around a arms, and where axle bolt goes in. few spots to find them.
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I just bought a 6 segima jet kit its been a while since I tune a Carb and it fine tunes it for you the kit has needel shims a few pilot jets and 4, or 5 main it just really give you a step by step and tells you why and what each of these things do and how to fine tune it. It was 40 bucks but I know now that I will be really close on tuning and my have to just change a main jet or ect not bad for money you learn a lot
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Stripped!!! Gonna get blasted this weekend or next then off to powder coat!
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The stock mikuni is much easier to tune. They can also be modified for a price. My .02
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Should I keep my stock Mikuni carb and tweak jetting and bore or go with a pwk or some other carb setup?
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just take side covers off motor and try to see if the crank moves, i think if you can feel it
move then you may need to take all the way apart.
i am sure someone else will better answere your question.
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Is it necessary to split my cases to check the condition of my crank and bearings and whether I need to rebuild the bottom end?
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Got the electrical off and rear swinger last night. Gotta get the front end off then clean everything and blast it to send it off for powder coating on the frame a arms and spindles.
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I like motosport and motorcycle superstore
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I ordered my clutch basket from eBay but Hinson still sells then for $249 Rocky Mountain atv.com has some parts for them. The stores on this site and other members also is worth checking out.
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were do you find parts for this machine i use denniskirk.com but they dont have much of a variety
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Like said drill out on basket side and your going to drill out the 3 silver circles in between the springs
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Drill em out on the basket side.Save the gear.
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Cleaner shot of the head and question about clutch gears. Which do I grind off to get the gears off the basket to put them on the new Hinson basket I ordered the side in the first picture or second picture of the clutch?
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Yeah the handle bars are being replaced! And funny you ask about the weights I have someone coming to look at them to buy them tomorrow which will hopefully find some v force 3 reed cage and reeds.
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Wicked bend on the handle bar there like a U. Want to sell me some weights?
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Updated photos pulled the engine tonight and the head. Pleased with the condition of the head and piston and cylinder walls.
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Ordered this basket. In the picture is a trx250r basket but the Hinson part number is correct for the Zilla.
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Call motosport to see if basket comes with bolts my bad
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Yea I just did clutch in mine the case is tough to get off make sure you set you little gear in middle of case up again or your clutch won't grab I checked before I bolted it down also check the cable pull it in and out should move with easy after that make sure the ARM ( that cable connects to ) is lined up with mark on the case . CHECK. THE CABLE. I bought a dirtdigger clutch when all I needed was a 8 dollar cable your going to need a case gaskit as well . I would call motosport or where ever to see if it come with bolts for the gear I'm 75 percent sure on the basket as well Thoses pics are examples you will get the same one regardless
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That would be a little less intimidating. Been a decade since I've even worked in an atv it's not like riding a bike when all you've really done is rebuild a top end replace clutches and do bolt on stuff. Glad I got this forum and others though!
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I believe they come with the bolts to put the gear back on insted of rivets
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No wiseco clutch components for the Zilla. The only thing that I worry about with the Hinson is taking the gears off my old basket and putting them in the Hinson.
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See if they make wiseco for zilla benys of a hinson like stated a little harder so last a little longer but are not bullet proof that why I say go with wiseco for the simple fact of life time warranty my brother
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Hinson doesn't make the clutch hub though how frequently do those wear out? I've never replaced a basket before I was thinking it was simple unbolt old and bolt up new. Is the Hinson basket worth the extra time and effort?
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It is machined from billet aluminum rather than cast aluminum. With it's hard anodized coating, it will outlast the OEM by some time.
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So anyone have any input on what the benefit of a Hinson basket over a oem basket is?
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I'm putting a wiseco basket in my kx 250 10 buck cheaper with life time guarantee
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Ha this is my first ever rebuild I think I'm just gonna get this stock oem basket that's on eBay for $149.00 and call it a day. What's the benefit of a Hinson basket anyway?
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You grind off the heads of the rivets, remove the backing gear to reinstall on the new basket. Hinson supplies new screws usually. If your comfortable doing your own work you can do it yourself. Red locktite a must!
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Also is there a huge benefit with the Hinson over the stock oem basket?
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That adds up now which basket would you go with if it were you? They're virtually the same price. Also where could I have the gears riveted onto the basket at like a machine shop or atv mechanic?
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when you buy a new hinson you need to take gear off of the back of your old clutch and have it rivited on new one.
they do not come with gear
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Which Hinson basket is better or is there a difference? Seems like the first one is missing the plate behind it with the springs and gears.
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Quadster if I go with the 87 jug I was gonna get one o ringed and hopefully find a vf2 reed cage and reeds. The power valve is in my 88 jug though so its really gonna depend in the condition of the sleeve and head once I get it all apart this weekend. If it needs a ton if machine work done (plus I'm already planning on o ringing it and getting the squish fixed) then I will be putting on an 87 jug. Any performance advantage to the larger reed 87 jug?
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Dez I was referring to Hinson on the basket I haven't seen any hubs or pressure plates from them for this bike. Might as well blow my exhaust wad on a clutch assembly then and wait till the tax return comes for an exhaust system.
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Can't run the bike exhaust is off clutch is apart motor is being pulled off the frame this weekend. Ill try what you recommended Grk. If the power valve is gone how hard is it to get a new one? Should I just buy a new jug? Any benefit to the large reed 87 jug vs the small reed 88 jug?
Can't run the bike exhaust is off clutch is apart motor is being pulled off the frame this weekend. Ill try what you recommended Grk. If the power valve is gone how hard is it to get a new one? Should I just buy a new jug? Any benefit to the large reed 87 jug vs the small reed 88 jug?
87 jugs have 1 less studs in the cylinder.
If ya go with the 87 jug you will need the head and intake/reeds also
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Can't run the bike exhaust is off clutch is apart motor is being pulled off the frame this weekend. Ill try what you recommended Grk. If the power valve is gone how hard is it to get a new one? Should I just buy a new jug? Any benefit to the large reed 87 jug vs the small reed 88 jug?
Can't run the bike exhaust is off clutch is apart motor is being pulled off the frame this weekend. Ill try what you recommended Grk. If the power valve is gone how hard is it to get a new one? Should I just buy a new jug? Any benefit to the large reed 87 jug vs the small reed 88 jug?
87 jugs have 1 less studs in the cylinder.
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The inner hub has wear like the basket, so if your wallet can handle the drain goferit.
Does Hinson make inner hubs &pressure plates for the Zilla?
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I've never replaced a clutch basket before anything special I should know also Hinson is the best way to go but should I replace the hub and pressure plate too?
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More pictures
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Yeah I know I'm getting a Hinson basket and probably gonna go with Jerry's extra plates Barnett clutch kit. I did realize the gaskets I'm pretty sure are the cometic ones trying to post the other pictures but its not going through.
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time for a completely new clutch assy, it looks pretty bad to me.
well any sign of groves is bad to me. lol
start looking on ebay, you can get lucky sometimes and pick up one cheap, thats in good shape
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Clutch plates and basket, exhaust port, intake port, reeds, and power valve which is in there.
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As it sits now before the wheels come off and motor gets pulled this weekend.
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there is a part or 2 that you can not buy new anymore for the pv, but i am sure you can find one here or on ebay.
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Can't run the bike exhaust is off clutch is apart motor is being pulled off the frame this weekend. Ill try what you recommended Grk. If the power valve is gone how hard is it to get a new one? Should I just buy a new jug? Any benefit to the large reed 87 jug vs the small reed 88 jug?
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Throught the window I can see a nut and what looks like the power valve to be in there but when I put my fingers in the through the exhaust port and feel in that cut out where the valve should be there is nothing there.
You will feel a opening when the bike is off and not running. When the bike reaches about 4000 RPM, the PV closes. Can you run the bike in neutral, give it some throttle and rev it up. Looking through the window you will see the PV arm move upwards and close. If it doesnt move when you rve the hell out of it, it might be stuck.
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hey bud, take the pv window off, there is a cylinder in there. it turns, and has a cut out in it for the exhaust.
you should be able to move it when you stick your fingers in the hole, unless you got some fat sausage fingers.
if you see the screw and the arm for the pv its in there, just like prego. lol it could be froze tho, or stuck.
depends on what oil was used and if bike had any pm work. they do get gummed up sometimes.
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Throught the window I can see a nut and what looks like the power valve to be in there but when I put my fingers in the through the exhaust port and feel in that cut out where the valve should be there is nothing there.
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Take the PV window off. Rotate the PV and see if you can feel it close off the chamber in the case.
You need a PV!!
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did you take off the actual pv window and there is no pv in it, or are you sticking your fingers in the exhaust port and down into the pv chamber.
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Why would someone remove the power valve on a bike that has a stock pipe and DG silencer? How hard is it to get a power valve to put in?
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Pretty sure the notch out of the case where it should be feels empty unless it can be adjusted Dow 2 to 3 inches inside where it goes than its not there.
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Cinci is about 3.5 hours from me.
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motorman is close to you then, and no pv, are you sure.
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Cincinnati
I almost forgot there is no power valve in the exhaust port. Through the sight glass it looks like its there but one I got the exhaust off and stuck my finger in to feel for it it's just an empty cut out.
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where you at in ohio,
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Got the junk stock header off the clutch case and clutch assembly apart air box of fans carb off tonight all said took about an hour and a half of relaxed wrench spinning. Clutch plates look to be in not so bad condition. Found a lot of dirt build up in the interior walls of the intake tube. The tranny fluid was dark blackish brown with no substance to it really. I would venture to guess it hadn't been changed in a few years. I will take pictures in the next couple of days to show my progress. Really thinking about striping the frame and going with a different color scheme. Blue and yellow just says loser to me but hell that's probably just the Buckeye in me talking! Lol
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Tried to get a top speed run with GPS street was short and GPS didn't have a max speed setting so it was a fail did get it up to 71 an was just getting into 5th but had to get out if it case ran out if room, street was only about an 8th to a 1/4 mile or so.
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Nice even edited my first post. At least I know the title is legit.
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Welp it's an 88 frame and motor and those are the stock white a arms. So how do I change my thread title lol
fixed
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Welp it's an 88 frame and motor and those are the stock white a arms. So how do I change my thread title lol
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Change the clutch before you pull the motor, makes it a little easier.
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Thanks Q2W ill check all of that stuff. So if its an 88 motor are those better or worse than an 87 motor? I know it has a Mikuni carb not sure what size and I'm pretty sure the a arms are aftermarket they're wrapped in a sticker that's a suspension company sticker but I can't remember what it says off the top of my head.
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Judging by the white a-arms, I'd guess 89 or 90.
Check the vin on the frame. think it's the 10th letter?
H = 87
J = 88
K = 89
L = 90
The 88+ frames are much better than the 87's but still need gussets at the weak spots.
It could have the 87 motor installed though. Easy way to tell is to look at the jug. 6 studs = 87. 7 studs = 88+
Also there is a number on top of the cases:
m107 = 87 and 88.
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So if its an 88 is that better or worse than having an 87 cause I know the 87's are unique in that they're different than every other year.
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It's an 88, 87 have a different front a arm than you have.
but it's in the vin code to, someone will tell you the letters to look for.
I can't remember them.
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So the title for my Zilla says its an 88 but the guy I bought it from said it was an 87. Anyway to verify what year the bike is?
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Thanks GrkGuy! Ill post a pic of the a arms as soon as I can the bike is at my brothers shop down the street from my house so I don't have to drive all the way out to my dads farm anymore which makes it nice. I appreciate all the help I can get its been years since I've spun wrenches on a 4 wheeler.
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when you are ready to take clutch cover off you must remove kicker and the clutch shaft arm,
take out the set screw that holds it in place then you should be able to pull it up, it takes some love to get it out
sometimes. you might have to put a pair of vise grips on it and then tap it up so it comes out. there is a thrust
arm with teeth on it, you need to make sure you have it set to grab shaft when it goes back in, or it wont let in drop
all the way in.
take a pic of the a arms we can tell you what they are, good luck with the build, we are here to help you all the way.
its fun to help other guys spend there money. :)
cometic amf gaskets are top of the line.. and come highley recommended
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Starting next weekend hopefully on the tear down I currently have all plastics off and all electrical off. Gonna pull the motor to do the clutch and while I have it apart I'm gonna sand blast and polish some case covers. Anything special or tricky I should know about installing the new clutch? Also any recommendation for a complete gasket kit?
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Creating this to show progress on my first ever 88 lt500 build also will most definitely have questions along the way and will try to keep them here in this thread will also ask opinions and suggestions. Ill post updated pics as I go along this is my start. I purchased this bike for $1500 it is dirty and rough but has brand new maxxis razor fronts an mud shark rear tires along with brand new steel itp rims all the way around. Not sure but I'm pretty sure the a arms are after market. Other than that it has a DG pipe and silencer (junk I know). My end goal is to have a really fast and reliable bike I will be predominantly dirt and field dragging it along with trail riding.