New Rescue: 1987 Quadracer LT500R!!

• #75 Reply
  Posted by cworobec on 16 Sep, 2013 21:45
• No problem man glad its all coming together.
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• #76 Reply
  Posted by CrustyOreo on 17 Sep, 2013 13:55
• Pardon the thread interruption. Are you planning on doing anything regarding carb work for the 88.5mm bored?
  
  Thanks
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• #77 Reply
  Posted by Rider414 on 17 Sep, 2013 14:12
• I am not sure what you mean Mr. Oreo?
  
  Am I going to rejet? Mod the carb?
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• #78 Reply
  Posted by CrustyOreo on 17 Sep, 2013 14:16
• Yes. 88.5 is 2mm over stock I Think?
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• #79 Reply
  Posted by Rider414 on 17 Sep, 2013 14:26
• You always want to check the jetting after a rebuild. I will run slightly bigger jets to break it in and then dial it in.
  
  The only mod that I did was change from the 87 carb to the 88-90 Zilla carb. I will not be boring this carb out as I want to replicate stock LT500 performance. I am going to run an airbox lid too!! FTW!!
  
  
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• #80 Reply
  Posted by Buckeye513 on 17 Sep, 2013 16:32
• That's what you call sacrificing for butt dyno glory!!
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• #81 Reply
  Posted by Rider414 on 25 Sep, 2013 18:59
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  Small Reed Top End being assembled - might get to do a heat cycle tomorrow if I get enough time.
  
  Notes:
  - There is a technique to assembling the exhaust valve. Especially the plastic clip to the rod.
  
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• #82 Reply
  Posted by MotorGeek - Jerry Hall on 25 Sep, 2013 20:57
• Matt:
  
  You need to weld the flywheel before the rivets get loose.  Once the rivets get loose the two will not be concentric .......... then it is too late to weld it
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• #83 Reply
  Posted by 1986QuadRacer on 25 Sep, 2013 22:14
• Ya the clips are a pain. On the bench  maybe not bad
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• #84 Reply
  Posted by Rider414 on 26 Sep, 2013 02:44
• Quote from: MotorGeek on 25 Sep, 2013 20:57

  Matt:
  
  You need to weld the flywheel before the rivets get loose.  Once the rivets get loose the two will not be concentric .......... then it is too late to weld it
  

  
  You're right - I need to get that done.
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• #85 Reply
  Posted by ZeroZeroMinusOne on 26 Sep, 2013 12:49
• Quote from: Rider414 on 25 Sep, 2013 18:59

  
   
  
  Notes:
  - There is a technique to assembling the exhaust valve. Especially the plastic clip to the rod.
  
  

  
  I had a hard time with this. I ended up installing the clip onto the rod first, then inserting the clip end into the valve. Worked like a charm
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• #86 Reply
  Posted by Chuckie25 on 01 Oct, 2013 11:24
• Looks good man! How's she doing? Nice save for sure on that **** azz piston ,,,,
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• #87 Reply
  Posted by Rider414 on 01 Oct, 2013 12:30
• Chuckie -
  
  I am waiting for a clutch cover gasket. It might be here today. Everything else is ready to go. Maybe a heat cycle video later??!! Oh I hope I just didn't jinx it...............................Sorry Zilla gods for thinking this might run. I am sorry.
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• #88 Reply
  Posted by MotorGeek - Jerry Hall on 01 Oct, 2013 14:43
• Just go ride it.
  
  The piston needs more heat than what idling can provide to stress relieve it.  The proper break-in procedure will relieve the needed stresses and polish off the high spots on the piston and cylinder wall at the same time.
  
  The heat cycle routine of letting the engine idle for ________ minutes with _________ minutes of cool off time and repeating the process ______ number of times, then run the engine at_________throttle position for __________ minutes........it just goes on and on and on........ just polishes the tops off of the cross hatch, glazes the cylinder and make ring seating take longer without doing much to aid the break-in process of the piston.  I have read and tried numerous break-in procedures in my career.  The above procedure is another one of those procedures that really does not hurt the engine but it does almost nothing to prepare or break-in the piston so that the engine is ready to be run hard.
  
  When I have time I will post my procedure and the science behind the procedure. 
  
   
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• #89 Reply
  Posted by Rider414 on 01 Oct, 2013 20:29
• Please do.
  
  I usually will do a couple of heat cycles and then run it.
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• #90 Reply
  Posted by Rider414 on 06 Oct, 2013 17:59
• I have been trying to get this Zilla started. Still no success. Each time I ran out of time or energy. I had a couple of close ones.
  
  I got spark and fuel. Ill give it another try tomorrow. 
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• #91 Reply
  Posted by Chuckie25 on 10 Oct, 2013 11:21
• is it alive yet?
  
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• #92 Reply
  Posted by Buckeye513 on 10 Oct, 2013 11:27
• Just don't take until page 27 people give you a hard time for **** like that! Lol
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• #93 Reply
  Posted by Rider414 on 10 Oct, 2013 12:14
• Well I ran into some issues..............big surprise with these quads huh?
  
  I did get it to start but quickly identified a issue. The moron that polished the head (PCS is who I bought it from, hopefully it wasn't him) took enough material off of the spark plug surface that it leaks!!!! It sprays premix all over the place.
  
  
  
  
  And the bleeder screw broke off. So.............................I need to get this fixed and then Ill be back at this thing.
  
  I had to take my YFZ450 and Long Travel Jeep to the Sand Dunes instead. Wish I had the Zilla!!! 
  
  http://youtu.be/czrvbRNqqkg
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• #94 Reply
  Posted by Buckeye513 on 10 Oct, 2013 12:50
• Matt pretty sure I have an extra bleeder screw (ill double check tonight) if you want me to send it to you let me know.
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• #95 Reply
  Posted by Rider414 on 23 Oct, 2013 14:13
• Got the cylinder head repaired and it runs. This video is the first REAL time it has been running. I had to adjust the air screw abit to settle the idle down. It started the third kick. Cant wait to see the torquey thunder this stock small reed top end churns out.
  
  http://youtu.be/WlPVxdoPwpI
  
  Thank you:
  PCS
  Cworobec
  Twinzilla
  Motorgeek
  Mitch Keller
  
  For parts, pieces, and service.   
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• #96 Reply
  Posted by Buckeye513 on 23 Oct, 2013 15:51
• Doing a slow clap for you sir!
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