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Quick and easy questions with pic's , and i'm ready to roll ....
Posted by jonbon540 on 25 Aug, 2015 09:39 -
hate to clutter up the board with these questions, but I did a search and there didn't seam to be a clear definitive answere, and there wernt any pics when I did find a comment or two.
so here go's
I have a 1989 that ran and road but needed a new top end . so I am posting pics to help clearly describe my application and question.
when using a 7 stud head gasket (for now )
* Question 1 = Does the water control holes go over the right side ( over the powervalve window area ) or over the left side near the exhaust pipe ( where I could assume it would be a more heat saturated area) ?
also I have posted a pic of the slight lip in the head (which I assume to be stock squish )
* Question 2 = Is there a pic of what a corrected squish should look like ? and or does mine appear to be corrected ?
I have two carbs posted in pic - one on left was sold to me and claimed to be off of an 87 zilla, and the one on the right was on the running 89 that we are currently freshening up and doing jet work to today.
* Question 3 = Is the brass colored pressed in BB looking thing what is called the air correction screw or jet that people seam to be removing ? as I see the two carbs pictured are different .Any insight would be apprieciated.
* Question 4 = Does this look like enough slide wear to consider replacement or enough to cause tunning issues ?
thanks for the help and answer to these questions
you guys rock
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then a pic of the motor side of the slide
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Question 5 = Is this the proper float level adjustment ?
I removed the float to get a better pic . -
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ill try to answer a few.
1. you need to slow down the water flow on the exhaust side. What's pictured is correct. A lot of people have the holes on their jug welded or epoxied to match.
2. do a squish test. 2 main things. Get it set close to .055" and have the dome reshaped by a builder that knows his zillas. Squish tolerances will be a bit different depending on which builder you talk too. but, .055 is good middle ground. Adjust the squish clearance via base gasket. You can order different thicknesses from cometic.
3. There are numbers on the side of the carb. 43b00 is 87 43b10 is 88-89 and 43b20 is 90. What you were told about the carb years appears to be correct. Go with the 43b10+. Im not sure about removing the BB but most people just use the newer carbs if it's an option.
4. I would definitely replace the slide. I was having serious pilot issues and couldnt figure out why my bike needed a 45 pilot and even then it was not consistant. Replaced my slide and installed a 35 pilot and now it starts within 3 kicks.
5. I reckon. Best way to tell is run it. I don't have a manual in front me but i'm sure there are some numbers someone can tell you. -
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Q2W answered most questions.
5. I found the following info from Hall "float arm parallel with the gasket surface (without the floats touching the float arm)"
Hope that helps. -
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2. do a squish test. 2 main things. Get it set close to .055" and have the dome reshaped by a builder that knows his zillas. Squish tolerances will be a bit different depending on which builder you talk too. but, .055 is good middle ground. Adjust the squish clearance via base gasket. You can order different thicknesses from cometic.
I've been told and ran .050 on a average motor with a corrected dome. IMHO I'd go .050 to .055 but I wouldn't go any tighter than .050 unless you've got a fresh motor built by a knowledgeable builder.
2) Need better pictures of your dome, that one is waaay to close up and blurry
3) Do not remove the BB, those are plugs for different ports depending on the model of your carb.
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