Hey Beast, I also was running a stock bowl Lectron 44 and I went thru all the fuel modifications trying to fix my W.O. cutout issue.  I drilled the gas cap, added a banshee high flow pingle, and even did some timing measurements on flowing a gallon of fuel from the tank into a gallon milk jug.  When I finally got my setup to flow a gallon of fuel as fast with or without the gas cap on, I knew I was at my max flow from the tank to the carb.

I suspected it was my HRD engine sucking the carb bowl dry, but could not 100% confirm it.  The stock bowl on the Lectron is clear, but it is a bit hard to try and check when W.O. in the dunes

Well last year, I decided to switch to Jerry's pipe (HPR#19) from my Q pipe AND to switch to a modded TM38 carb.  While Jerry was on the dyno, I was watching from the side and I saw my setup (Lectron 44 w/Q pipe) suck the bowl dry when he started the pull.  Took ~5 seconds before my bike started stuttering.  We swapped out to the modded TM38 and the bike made several clean pulls with no stuttering (~10 seconds W.O. pull).

I had several suggestions that I could add a fuel pump to make sure I have enough fuel, but I didn't want to go that route as it addresses the symptom and not the problem.

I was going to try and find a larger float valve to flow more fuel, but never found any good answers on the internet.  I never talked to Packard.  After talking with Jerry, I wanted to go back to the TM38 since it has more adjustments for off idle, and midrange.  The Lectron is a good drag racing carb since you can change the main by twisting an external screw.  It works fine for idle and W.O.

I built a dune bike first and drag racer second.  I enjoy having great mid-range power and being able to use 3rd gear in the dunes about all the time.  I still have a pretty quick quad for drag racing.  I could get more power on the top-end by a larger carb, but I was worried about hurting the low/mid power.  The modified TM38 works good enough for me.