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need a good pipe for lt500
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what you drive the most? how are the setup from the engine?
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Quadzilla 500 it has" fmf" gold series and I am looking for a better pipe.
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What type of riding do you primarily do is what Frank was trying to say. He's our neighborhood German friend and sometimes his English can be a tad confusing the first couple times you talk with him. He also asked what all has been done to the motor. There are a few pipe systems way better then the fmf.
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i am... not understand.
thanks. Ok i shout up
and listen.
All i say is: call Motogeek he is the Man of this question. -
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Quadzilla 500 it has" fmf" gold series and I am looking for a better pipe.
The FMF Fatty and Bills pipe hits at a low RPM but will not Rev even with radical porting. The older FMF gold series runs similar to the Paul Turner pipe as far as the shape of the power curve.
The new generation of "large Belly Pipes" Aaen, DCS, Q v1 and Qv2, HPR-19 make more mid-range and peak power while some will rev higher than others at the expense of loosing low-end.
Most of the older small belly diameter pipes often excel in only one RPM range while others are duds in my opinion at all RPMs. The new generation pipes tend to make more power over a wider RPM range especially when matched up with the rest of the engine components.
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I am also running an FMF Gold (not a fatty). I paid $120 for it, and haven't seen a better pipe for anywhere near the price .... The Gold Series was an upgrade over the PSI (basicaly a Bill's pipe) that came with the bike... It rev's much higher, and has a much broader power band. It required going up quite a bit on the main jet tho'. I works very well as a trail, and pit pipe!
I would love 1 of those "big volume" pipes, but can't afford the $600 price tag!
So until I find a bargain, I'm happy with my FMF Gold! -
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You asked so here's IMHO:
Cheap low Performance:
FMF Gold (Stamped)
FMF High rev
Medium Can work good & be bought cheap if you look:
Bills Pipe (Torque, drops off in 3rd gear)
Trinity (Mostly drag, not a lot of low end)
LRD/LED (can be bought new)
Paul Turner (really good all around, stinger needs to be enlarged with more than stock porting, Can Be bought new)
Big Boy Stuff:
Aaen (cheapest, quality lacking)
DCS (Getting better torque & peak numbers than Q but does not rev as high, haven't seen the quality 1st hand)
Q V-1, V-1.1, V-2 (Best flat land, no weight, drag pipe I've ridden 9.4K RPM)
HPR (Best all around power monster, best incline drag pipe, widest power range, pulls the hardest)
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Why shouldn't you run the fmf pipes? That's what I have and it seems to do fine fit me on trails and the gravel pit I ride at.plus I don't have the money for a500 dollar pipe.
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Why shouldn't you run the fmf pipes? That's what I have and it seems to do fine fit me on trails and the gravel pit I ride at.plus I don't have the money for a500 dollar pipe.
The FMF pipes will not do damage to your engine. I think he is trying to say, If you are a gear head looking for some level of performance, the FMF Fatty pipe is at the bottom of the list. -
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Way to ask people's opinions then chew them out when they provide good input to try and help you out.
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Was a post deleted? I didn't see ron johnson or anyone else chewing anyone out.
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Way to ask people's opinions then chew them out when they provide good input to try and help you out.
Emanm1023 is not the OP. -
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I'm confused who's chewing who out.I mean I was just wondering why you shouldn't bc if it hurt the engine I would look for another but if it's just bc it's nit as high performance as the others then I will keep it for this on as a trail quad and plan on building one with all the bells and whistles probably next year.
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Why shouldn't you run the fmf pipes? That's what I have and it seems to do fine fit me on trails and the gravel pit I ride at.plus I don't have the money for a500 dollar pipe.
Emann you can run what ever you want, run a flex pipe if you want.
The original post asked for a "Good" Pipeneed a good pipe for lt500
So IMHO don't run a FMF they're NOT good. Especially if for the same money you'd spend on a new FMF you can get a good used PT, LED/LRD (if you can find one), which to me are the next level up from FMF.
If you like FMF great then please share your opinion and post it up as a "Good" pipe for your application, trails, etc I just don't like em for the riding I do and the price point they are.I'm confused who's chewing who out.I mean I was just wondering why you shouldn't bc if it hurt the engine I would look for another but if it's just bc it's nit as high performance as the others then I will keep it for this on as a trail quad and plan on building one with all the bells and whistles probably next year.
No pipe is going to hurt the engine, the motor just won't run as good as it could with a different pipe.
If you're looking for cheap here's about the cheapest pipe I know of, performance is a little lacking but it's cheap!
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If your gonna name names I'm not the only one that said I ran an fmf pipe and I just asked why you shouldn't and gave my type of riding I did my quad can with the fmf so I didn't go out and by it specifically..I never once said that it was a great pipe or said it was better than any others just simply asked a question and gave a description of my riding with that pipe.I didn't say he should go out and buy an fmf. I'm sure most people know that you don't go buy an fmf exhaust to make it a high performance machine.
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I thought if a pipe is too restrictive it could cause it to overheat or burn the piston up on the exhaust side?
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I thought if a pipe is too restrictive it could cause it to overheat or burn the piston up on the exhaust side?
It can if you're running the bike hard on long WFO runs and it depends on the restriction, porting, jetting, rider, conditions, etc.....A motor does not blow up on it's own it has to be ridden.
Your statements are not a complete synopsis of the entire situation and either you're failing to understand that they all work together to create a situation or your just looking to argue.
As you said your FMF works good for you for what you like to do. I personally think FMFs suck and prefer a higher performance pipe especially for the money. Does it mean just because you have a FMF on a bike you'll blow it up? Nope, you have to ride it, you have to jet it, it is subject to the riding conditions, the riders common sense (or lack there of), and the tuning ability of the rider or mechanic.
I don't know how much you know about 2 strokes but before there where expansion chambers you ran a straight pipe that you kept cutting off until you felt it worked good.
This thread was a request for a "good" pipe so if you need more education on how pipes work or what makes a piston sieze, please read some of the tech articles or make another post in the technical section but quit taking this thread off topic.
thanks
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All I did was ask a simple question bc your original post said don't run fmf do I assumed bc your a forum moderator you knew what you were talking about.so if pipes could have to much restriction it could cause failure and was wondering if that was why you said not to run them.I wasn't starting anything just wanting to know why nit to run them is all
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I thought if a pipe is too restrictive it could cause it to overheat or burn the piston up on the exhaust side?
Over restricting the pipe adds heat to the piston skirt on the exhaust port side of the piston as well as overheating the top of the piston.
Where the piston fails depends a lot on how the restriction affects the rest of the engine. If the restriction affects the volumetric efficiency it can have an effect on the jetting possibly burning the piston on the exhaust side. If the over-restriction increases the piston crown temperature enough, it can lead to pre-ignition, then detonation and burn a hole in the center of the piston.
An over restricted pipe can also change the engines fuel octane requirements. Higher internal engine temperatures usually require higher octane fuel.
An over-restricted pipe will not usually increase the coolant temperature significantly. -
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Thank you Jerry for the technical interpretation of my idiotic ramblings.
your original post said don't run fmf do I assumed bc your a forum moderator you knew what you were talking about. so if pipes could have to much restriction it could cause failure and was wondering if that was why you said not to run them. I wasn't starting anything just wanting to know why not to run them is all
To answer your question, yes an over restrictive pipe can help cause you to seize a piston usually through the build up of too much heat as Jerry explained.
Pipes that have been known to do this are the Paul turner but only when ran on a bike with, porting, larger pistons, in hot conditions, run it on the lean side, with maybe non-race gas, in hot conditions, under hard loads for extended periods. From what I have come to know the cause for this is not the expansion chamber but the diameter of the stinger section being too small and holding too much heat in the cylinder through exhaust gas restriction.
Having said that Paul turner pipes on stock motors or with light porting run good and unless you're really running them hard for long pulls, have lots of porting (forcing lots of air through the motor), running them lean, or run low octane gas shouldn't have to worry about seizing a piston running a PT. My riding buddy has had one for 3 years and it runs great, but it's on a stock motor, bigger carb, dry large intake, V-2 reeds, rides the desert with no issues.
Now I will also say that the Q pipe is notorious for holding heat in the head pipe due to the sonic transducer in the back of the convergent cone (rumor, I have not seen it myself). From my real world experience running both Q V-1 & HPR the Q pipe gets hot and holds the heat in the head pipe creating a need for a break while riding the dunes or only allowing 3 passes on the hill before it gets too hot and the power would drop off (AKA risking seizing a piston from over heating (1,200+ degrees). Riding the HPR with the larger diameter stinger and non restricted I can ride that thing for a hour straight and the only thing I need to cool it down is run it down hill, up shift, and under a light load so the motor can pull a fresh charge in and cool the motor and head pipe down, then I can hit it again.
I can definitely feel the difference in how much heat the Q V-1 hold VS. the HPR which dissipates the heat very quickly.
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Is your HPR coated or raw?
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Is your HPR coated or raw?
Brent hit the hammer on the head, we tested the Q-1, Q-2, HPR 19, DSC-4 over and over and through the dyno graphs we would see the power dropping off the Q -2 Q-1 and the DCS-4 pipes, but the HPR 19 graphs stayed consistent.
The DCS-6 also went to 1-375" ID on the stinger and ran over 15 runs on our last dyno runs and with no loss of power one hell of a good tip on design from Jerry Hall. -