Without splitting the cases on my lt motor I can spin the crankshaft in the main bearings by holding the small ring of the main bearing with the blade of a screwdriver and turning the crank. Does this mean I need a new crankshaft? And if so, does anyone have a freshly rebuilt 87 lt500r crankshaft or one with a worn bottom end bearing which is ok to be rebuilt that they would sell me? Thanks.
Is this on the Flywheel side or the Clutch Side?
Anyone have any ideas about this? My zilla was doin the same thing...play on flywheel side. Upon disassembly i noticed play was between bearing and crank not bearing and case. Inserts have been done (brass). Replaced main bearings and seals. No play after rebuild. Now after a few rides i have a tiny bit of play again. Along with vibration.
I used FAG bearings...made in germany.
A little history of the bike. Its an 87 I got for $1700 all stock except for k&n with no air box. ran decent when I test rode it just a lil vibration. after riding it a few times I decided to check crank play, it had quite a bit on flywheel side, so a rebuild was in order. went next size up on bore (87mm) and replaced all gaskets seals and main bearings. Put on PT pipe and 88 flywheel. rejetted per Duncan racing suggestions. rode it a few times and the vibration came back. also has a tiny bit of play on flywheel side. I was thinking I seated crank seal too far in and it held the inner race just enough to let the crank spin in it but that's just a guess. any suggestions?
Had the same thing on my 88 LT500.The shop I deal with up here machined the crank journal a bit then fitted a sleeve over the journal and machined it to the proper size to fit the bearing.No issues since.I went that route as unlike the 250,s no one makes a new crank for the 500,s.Likely some members here may have a known good crank they,d part with so you could always ask around.
No way the crank seal would hold the bearing inner race and cause that.Likely the crank journal it just worn and if the bearing race has been slipping on the crank and slopping around its likely pretty worn and out of round.
No good machine shops local. I could get new crank for 600 or just the left half for 180. Would it be wise to mismatch crank halves? Anybody on this site could sleeve crank journal for me?
Jerry Hall motorgreek on this site
Thanks for replies. I know a vibrating motor doesnt live very long. I will check for sale items..
I called crankworks and they said the best way to repar it is to weld the crank journal and then machine it to spec. Motorgeek, any thoughts on which method would be a more durable fix? Maybe PM me a price quote to get my crank right?
No good machine shops local. I could get new crank for 600 or just the left half for 180. Would it be wise to mismatch crank halves? Anybody on this site could sleeve crank journal for me?
I would buy the new crank half.
I have not seen any problems with crank alignment or truing when using a new half with an old half.
I called crankworks and they said the best way to repar it is to weld the crank journal and then machine it to spec. Motorgeek, any thoughts on which method would be a more durable fix? Maybe PM me a price quote to get my crank right?
There are a few ways to repair the worn main bearing saddle on the crank half. We have to make a decision what is most important. Cost of repair and or strength of the repaired area.
Welding up the area then precision grinding to the correct diameter is an option but welding is going to affect the metal properties and weaken this area. I have seen a few cranks break in this area which is apparently weak in stock form. I do not think welding is the proper approach especially if the engine is making a lot of power and turning a lot of RPM.
Turning the end of the crank and installing a sleeve is another option but this fix is also going to weaken this fragile area of the crank. The strength will be reduced to that of a crank shaft that has the same inside diameter of the sleeve. Again I do not think that we need to make the shaft any weaker.
I believe the best way is to grind the bearing saddle undersized to make room for hard chrome. Building up this area with hard chrome and then precision grinding it back to the correct dimension is the best way but is also the most expensive.
At this time, buying a new crank half is the most economical and you will get the strongest crank assembly when done.
Everyone should save all of there old cranks and crank halves. Some day we will need these crank cores to keep these machines running.
We can provide any of the above services, welding, sleeving or hard chroming but a new crank half will be cheaper.
Where are the new complete crank and halves available from?Straight from Suzuki I,m guessing?I didn,t even know they were still available.
thanks for reply Motorgeek. I will probably just buy crank half and have a rebuild done.
Rainman; Suzukipartshouse or pretty much any OEM retailer like bikebandit has them....not cheap though.
Now I just need help convincing my wife I didn't buy a "lemon".
Now I just need help convincing my wife I didn't buy a "lemon".
Likely the hardest part of the whole deal.lol