The good: Thanks to Maxxh2o for sending me a wrist pin for measurement purposes. I have sent this pin off to PAECO industries to be replicated in titanium.

The not as good: $150 each unless I order 8 or more.

If any of you want one, send me a PM.

According to the guy on the phone, a Ti wrist pin made to the exact dimensions as a chromemoly pin will be half the weight & twice the strength. He stated that as long as they stay lubricated, then they should out last a steel pin 4 to 1 & that they have not had any reported failures due to fatigue. A lighter pin will allow your engine to rev quicker & make more power above 6,000 rpm.

 

Cool thing

Nice work. Probably be the last wrist pin youd have to buy for a zilla.

Man I was thinking what a great way to lessen the reciprocating weight....

Brian, even if they can work in a needle bearing situation, be wary of those dubious claims.
Titanium is stronger than steel by weight, but not by volume.
In other words, if a 1" steel bar can support x lbs, then a 1" Ti bar will not be able to support x lbs without failing.
However, if size isn't a consideration, you can use a 1.5" Ti  bar (not exact, just an example) for the same strength with less weight.
So if the dimensions are the exact same, then the Ti  wrist pin will be weaker than the chromoly pin.
That's also why you don't see very much Ti hardware, because it needs to be slightly larger than steel hardware.
With the additional volume, the Ti  hardware becomes every bit as strong with a weight reduction.
Still have galling issues just like aluminum or SS hardware though, and it hurts your wallet a lot more if you gall up and ruin Ti  bolts.

One way I can think of successfully utilizing Ti  in a wrist pin is by using a hardened steel sleeve over the Ti.
Honestly, unless you need every little bit of an advantage, I doubt it would be worth it to the average rider.
Another possibility would be to nikasil plate the Ti wrist pin, but that would be an iffy endeavor...what if the underlying Ti  deforms enough to crack the brittle nikasil plating, or excessively wears the needle bearing, or the piston itself?
If I had some R&D money, I'd go with the nikasil idea, simply because nikasil hardly wears at all, and if it does get worn you can replate it and use it again.

See what they'd charge for a set of cases or a cylinder

sounds like it would be a good idea but id listen to the geek on this one..

Cost vs performance gain.   Ya your beating a dead horse. Great Idea but not cost effective for a part that's going to wear and need replacing each piston.