Seeing a slight coolant leak at the right rear cylinder to crankcase boss. Its the cylinder not the gasket. Looks like coolant is seeping from the aluminum. Like its got a crack or porous.
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Seeing a slight coolant leak at the right rear cylinder to crankcase boss. Its the cylinder not the gasket. Looks like coolant is seeping from the aluminum. Like its got a crack or porous.
c
If the crack is at the intersection of the right rear base nut surface and the vertical surface of the casting, it is not coolant but the oily crankcase mixture. There are not any coolant passage ways in the lower right rear corner of the cylinder. This is the common area where the cylinders break due to high mileage or the stress of modified engines. This is the problematic area most of us refer to as "fixing the ears" to repair cracks or prevent cracks.
Your "ears" have been reinforced, which is good. But the quality of the work is in question. If i were in your shoes, I would send the complete cylinder along with the head to Motorgeek to get properly repaired. Looks like a weld came apart due to improper prep work.
Looking at the pic, i can't tell if the ears were welded or if this was a botched fix of the crack.
I have seen a lot of cracking on the cylinders that have had the ears reinforced using the long sleeve nut approach. The picture needs the stator wire removed and some side shots so that we can see the vertical welds on sides of the added material.
I might get banned for suggesting this. Here goes. So If I drained the coolant, wirebrushed the area, applied denatured alcohol, and then spread very carefully some JB weld onto the area, and let it dry for 3 days minimal would that work? Keep in mind its barely even a drop or two after a ride right now.
Be Easy!
Bryan
I might get banned for suggesting this. Here goes. So If I drained the coolant, wirebrushed the area, applied denatured alcohol, and then spread very carefully some JB weld onto the area, and let it dry for 3 days minimal would that work? Keep in mind its barely even a drop or two after a ride right now.
Be Easy!
Bryan
That would temporarily stop the oil leak but the cylinder will continue to crack until the crack propagates from the base basket surface to the reed gasket surface on the right side of the cylinder. When this happens the left side ear of the cylinder is carrying all of the load on the back of the cylinder. The area where the left rear stud anchors into the case will usually break. When this area of the cases break where the left rear stud anchors, your cases are junk. I have not been able to successfully repair the left case when this area breaks out.
No need to drain the coolant. The crack is not leaking coolant. It is leaking oil that was in the fuel. THERE IS NOT ANY COOLANT CLOSE TO THIS AREA WHERE YOUR CRACK IS LOCATED.
Same thing happened to bill except his cylinder didn't crack but cases where junk.
My cylinder did the same a Rogue's except on the left side but I got luck and caught it/stopped ridding before it
**** the cases.
Get it fixed right now or it'll be much worse later.
