I know about that option zillafreak trying to maybe find something that will work for cheaper.

As posted earlier in this thread, wave rotors were recomended for improved stopping performance.
That is not true, wave rotors make no real performance improvements. The only marketed hype is that the design allows for better cooling...only it isn't enough to be significant. If wave rotors are quality made, they may be less prone to warp, but again only if they are of good quality. But no rotor is immune to warpage.
Wave rotors marketed for the wave are all hype.
SS brake lines will improve the brake's feel. The lever or pedal will feel more positive, and less pressure will need to be applied, especially once the fluid is hot. However, contrary to popular belife, ss lines will not stop you sooner. The improved feel of brake response is very good though. I use them and have only positive things to say about ss lines.
The holes in the rotors are to allow gas to escape. The pad material gives off a gas when it heats up as the brakes are applied. A solid rotor only allows for the gas to escape around the pads edges, as opposed to through the drill holes that will be constantly passing the pads. If the gas can't escape quickly(on a non drilled rotor), then the gas is constantly between the pads and rotors during braking, and the pads cannot grip the rotor as efficiantly.
A better master cylinder and caliper upgrade are real brake performance improvements.
More clamping force can be applied to the rotors making shorter stops possible with upgrade/newer design parts.
Pads also make a big difference, carbon fiber pads work better than oem material, and most cf pads heat up quickly, therefore don't need to be used constantly to remain at a good operating temperature, like in a race environment.
Pads and brakes also should always be bedded correctly. When installing new pads, and especially rotors, a serious of hard stops should be done immediatedly(mfg will have instructions on package or website).
The pad material is embedded in the metal of the rotor as they are quickly heated from hard use.
Pad to steel stops good, but pad to pad material embedded steel stops much better, as more grip from greater friction is available. Bedding brakes properly embedds more pad material into the rotor when parts are new, and improves stopping ability.
Not such a big deal on a utility 4 whlr, but a 500 that will do 80 to 100 mph is a much bigger deal.
Every little bit counts when you have to stop asap.
Sorry, but had to bust the braking myths in this thread.
Check out sportbike braking if you have any doubts, they all work on the same principals and very similiar overall designs.