Glamisrider...that's awesome news!
It means that us LT owners DO NOT need to set up a DC charging system to run LED's!
All of those sweet light bars are basically plug and play, HID power without the hassle
I don't understand a few things about the light bar that you posted though, is it 3W per LED, or 3W total power?
We've got 80W or so to play with, and you can buy a tiny handheld flashlight with more than 3W total power.
According to the amp draw, it's a 7-8W draw on the system, so we could effectively run 8-10 of these things, more with the higher watt Ricky Stator coils.
Now, if the LED's are 3W each and there's 12 of them, that means it's 36W per bar, 72W total.
7200 lumens is still a LOT of light though...driving lights in the US are limited to 1500 lumens +/-10%, so you're looking at getting more than twice the lumens out of your LT than your car's headlights.


Brian, your voltage regulator is either:
Defective (buy a new one)
Not tied into the lighting circuit (tee it directly to the positive wire on lighting circuit)
Corroded or no ground path (the regulator grounds directly through the bolt that holds it to the frame)

The voltage regulator basically dumps the excess electricity into the frame, so if it exceeds 12V, it starts trickling the charge into the frame until voltage stabilizes at 12V or less.
Without the voltage regulator, your stator will produce a crazy amount of voltage and will easily burn out a halogen driving light.
With a full load on the stator (80W or so) the voltage regulator won't ground hardly any of that charge since the lights alone are sufficient to pull the voltage down to normal levels.
If you wanted to really go to the next level and you're planning on using an LED lightbar, rated at 32V or so, you could buy a 28V regulator and the stator would have to work less at lower RPM (no current drain until you reach an RPM that develops 28V at no load).