Upper Ball Joint problem

Upper Ball Joint problem
Posted by mike42 on 29 May, 2018 22:19
Hello fellow Quadracer fans. I bought my first two stroke toy and it happens to be a 1985 quadracer. It was ridden often for the first 10 years and then basically put in storage for over 20 years. I bought it from the original owner for what I think was a very good price. I am replacing tie rod ends and ball joints, upper and lower. I probably bought some sheap upper ball joints as I seem to have stripped the threads off of the bolt that goes on the castle nut. Did I just overtighten? I just didn't think it was on very tight. anyone have any problems or suggestions for me?

Bonus question: I understand that the reeds are in the cylinder. Is this a serviceable item? How can I tell if they are no good?

#1 Reply
Posted by 250rider34 on 31 May, 2018 18:10
Could’ve over torqued the nut or just cheap quality parts. All balls racing I’ve had good luck with all their products also pivot works or go oem. As far as reeds I believe yes their replaceable not 100% sure of the process on the 85/86.

#2 Reply
Posted by Quadracer777 on 31 May, 2018 21:34
The reeds on an 85 or 86 are bolted on the bottom side of the cylinder. To get at it all you need to do is pull the cylinder off. If the bike hasn't been riden in 20 years then the reeds might never have been upgraded. The old oem reeds have a bad rep for breaking off and going through the motor. It's best save to yourself the worry and replace with new good aftermarket. Boyesen reeds are my choice and their website says they still have the 85/86 power reeds Model # 628.

#3 Reply
Posted by mike42 on 12 Jun, 2018 18:48
Any good options for removing base bolts mine seem to be very stuck I tried penetrating oil but no dice. Its been 33 years and they have probably never been off. If I was to heat the the jug do I need to be concerned about anything?

#4 Reply
Posted by mike42 on 12 Jun, 2018 18:50
I bought some all balls ball joints as suggested. These worked fine. So I guess I tried to save myself 5 dollars and it ended up costing me much more. Thanks for your help guys

#5 Reply
Posted by Quadracer777 on 13 Jun, 2018 19:14
Won't come off after being soaked in penetrating oil? What are you using. I am a firm believer in Kroil. You can put heat to the nut; but if you keep turning it will probably just unthread the stud from the case. Unless you actually have a bolt in there, then someone messed it up.

I also use All Balls bearings. They've got good products and great customer service.

#6 Reply
Posted by mike42 on 13 Jun, 2018 21:07
i tried PB blaster penetrating oil. Heat (although not too much because I don't want to warp anything). I have also tried a chisel and light hammering in a lefty loosey direction. I havent tried filing flats on the nuts. Does that ever work?

#7 Reply
Posted by Quadracer777 on 14 Jun, 2018 18:03
Post a pic of the problem stud so I can see which one it is, and I'll have a better idea.

#8 Reply
Posted by mike42 on 14 Jun, 2018 22:41
got it with a hammer and chisel. So now I got all the nuts off and the cylinder is stuck on gasket I guess. Is it always a super tight fit to get this thing off? I got super sweaty and gave up. Of course it doesn't help its about 105 in my garage.

#9 Reply
Posted by Quadracer777 on 14 Jun, 2018 23:21
They are always stuck. Just use a pry bar and work it from a bunch of different angles. Also might need to whack it a couple times with a rubber hammer to shock it free.

#12 Reply
Posted by mike42 on 18 Jun, 2018 17:29
Well I have tried many times to post a pic using this website and I always get errors. So I will describe what I see. cylinder looks smooth but no crosshatching. I will try sos pad to see if I can bring out any crosshatching. If I need cylinder honed do I need a new piston?

Piston has carbon buildup on top. There is a little light tan below the rings. I have seen that on rockymountain atv they sell rings but it is only for wiseco pistons. I don't know what piston is in there but is there a way to tell if it is a wiseco piston?

FYI I did a compression test and got 120psi cold engine. Reeds are flat untattered and all there. I am going to leave them.

#13 Reply
Posted by mike42 on 18 Jun, 2018 17:32
Really wish I could post a pic. Does someone have step by step instructions on how to do this. I am getting older but I am not retarded, my wife would say I am mildly retarded.

#15 Reply
Posted by 250rider34 on 19 Jun, 2018 16:40
Don’t go by looks even if you had crosshatching it doesn’t mean much. You need to measure the bore and piston to see what the clearance is. Usually ends up in doing a top end hate to say. Been there done that.. had nice crossahatching 150psi hot but .012 clearance intake side wiped out from dirt getting past the air filter.

#16 Reply
Posted by All American on 17 Jul, 2018 00:34
Wiseco pistons are all that’s available to us 250 guys. I buy All Balls bearings or Pivot Works.
P.S. while you are putting on new upper and lower ball joints, I’d go ahead and do the bump steer mod while you’re working in that neighborhood. And REPLACE those reeds, it makes no sense to reinstall them if you do t know how old they are. While you have the cylinder off, I’d go ahead and buy a set of thrust washers from this store. It’s a good idea to replace them while you are in there. Trust everyone and do that!! You will be really mad when those stock ones fall apart and get sucked through your motor which they do all of the time!